btmedic04
Well-Known Member
Day 2 after dosing Thomas labs fish flucon. No real changes yet. Hoping to see my bryopsis begin to melt soon. I keep eyeballing a nuvo 10 to set up to cycle and house my clownfish if I need to break down my nuvo 20
Bryopsis Cure: My Battle With Bryopsis Using Fluconazole
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ViciousDlishus
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I'm wondering how high my nitrates are expected to climb during treatment. I'm at 10 right now. Did manual extraction because I didn't want it all to die off and pollute the water further. 90 gal water volume.
Scubabum
Well-Known Member
I've treated the tank 3 times now with Fluconozole. The last treatment was for 5 weeks. It kills all the byropsis but it seems to return at the 3 month mark. It's only a few small spots but I want to eliminate before it spreads. Think its deep inside the crevices of my Pukani rock. Any other suggestions besides a 4th treatment?
Diablo2112
New Member
I've spent 6 months trying to control my Bryopsis outbreak via manual removal and tight control of phosphates. In my manual removal attempts, I clearly spread tons of tiny little bryposis bits all over my 117 gallon (Red Sea Reefer 450) setup.
Last week, it just got totally out of control. I ordered up enough Fluconazole for 2 complete treatments, and added the recommended dosage 3 days ago. Today, the little suckers are starting to look wilted. Here's a day-3 pic. Also, within an hour or two of adding Fluconazole, my ORP readings started to decrease. It's been steadily decreasing for 3 days now (which I assume is organic matter starting to decay in the water column).
Thanks for all the help here. As I had a HUGE outbreak of this stuff, I'm keeping a close eye on nitrates/phosphates (so far, no observable nitrate spike) and am dosing NOx/POx remover during treatment. No skimmer but otherwise continuing to run GFO and my UV.
Last week, it just got totally out of control. I ordered up enough Fluconazole for 2 complete treatments, and added the recommended dosage 3 days ago. Today, the little suckers are starting to look wilted. Here's a day-3 pic. Also, within an hour or two of adding Fluconazole, my ORP readings started to decrease. It's been steadily decreasing for 3 days now (which I assume is organic matter starting to decay in the water column).
Thanks for all the help here. As I had a HUGE outbreak of this stuff, I'm keeping a close eye on nitrates/phosphates (so far, no observable nitrate spike) and am dosing NOx/POx remover during treatment. No skimmer but otherwise continuing to run GFO and my UV.
Herby’s reef
Active Member
So I treated my tank for two weeks and while the bryopsis was pushed back, it is not completely gone. I ended up doing some large water changes because my acros were not looking great and I did not want them to continue to do bad. I had sent an ICP and found my tin and my aluminum to be high and I think that is what was aggravating my Acropora. I am pretty sure I have found the source and I would like to finish off the bryopsis, but dont really want to completely stop water changes. Has anybody ever just added more Reef Flux to the water change water and continued doing water changes? Will this overdose the tank? I am not sure if the full treatment amount is removed when we do water changes so potentially this is dangerous, but I thought I would ask. If it is dangerous I will just wait. I dont want to take any chances. I shared coral between this tank and my nano so both tanks had bryopsis and it eventually died in the nano. I cant wait to have the same results in my main tank!
ViciousDlishus
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Do a search and see what the dosage is for treating fish. I recall reading somewhere that it is way higher than what we're dosing for bryopsis so I don't think there is a chance of overdosing. I could be remembering incorrectly so please verify before doing so. What was the source of your metals?
ViciousDlishus
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From the first post in this thread.
*Also note that if I were using Fluconazole to treat my fish for infections I would need to dose this same amount every 24hrs for no less than 5 days but not more than 10 days.
This made me feel somewhat better about using it because this would be a one time dose and not building up 5-10 times as much in my aquarium over the course of 5-10 days.
*Also note that if I were using Fluconazole to treat my fish for infections I would need to dose this same amount every 24hrs for no less than 5 days but not more than 10 days.
This made me feel somewhat better about using it because this would be a one time dose and not building up 5-10 times as much in my aquarium over the course of 5-10 days.
Herby’s reef
Active Member
My worry is definitely my more sensitive Acropora than my fish, but I am guessing from what you are saying that it should be safe to dose water change water since I will be removing water at the same time
The metals source is a bit of a long story. The tin showed up in my RODI water as well, so first I fixed that. It was a float valve that was made for reefing and had no rust, but when I removed it, the tin went away, but the tin in the tank never cleared. I searched and searched and finally found an old jebao pump that had a metal clip on it. I have several and the newer ones dont have this. I missed it the first time I went through my pumps. So I have all high end equipment except these pumps, and they are what caused me issues! Anyways, the aluminum is from marine pure. I had a ton and I purchased it from Amazon. My understanding is that all marine pure can elevate aluminum, but some of the Amazon stuff was fake and really elevates it. I knew it was a problem, but was scared to remove my bio filter in it, so I have been gradually removing it. I usually had been doing daily water changes and I think this had kept most of this from hurting my Acropora, but during the Fluconazole treatment the acros started losing color and polyp extension. Some of my easier Acropora like birds nest and Stylo stn at the bases. I sent an ICP to the ICP in Colorado since they get the results quickly, and my tin is gone, but my aluminum has jumped to 160 which is very high and more than double my last ATI result. I have now removed all marine pure and been doing very large water changes and my Acropora are looking better. I have sent another ICP to ATI so that I can verify results with the same company I had been using, but I anticipate the results will be much better. I might wait another week and then try the Fluconazole again.
Thanks for the advice, sorry about the long post.
David
Team
Don't forget one change up in the order of ops that could drastically change growback issues
We had to evolve the same way in the peroxide years, initial kill usually isn't a problem for these plant kill options that rotate into the hobby each decade
Growback is where it's at, for the serious.
This below is the most powerful gha and bryopsis and red/green brush algae remover known to the hobby, an order of operations that places removers and preventatives at different intervals- and it deals with holdfast regeneration.
Those missing items are your noncompliant tanks here, every page, just like a huge peroxide thread
Fluc is powerful, it deserves a reefy award and will be permanent tool but it needs positioning vs being the sole action we depend on to save a tank
The reports of growback will lessen drastically if things are evolved
Before treatment of anything, decloud your entire tank. Take it apart, fix the cloudy sandbed feeding everything you don't want. Do the number one thing you don't want to do, the number one thing people who don't fix up aquariums will tell you not to do-clean that cloudy filthy aquarium before you dose anything
Clean off your rocks such that all the pent up algae allowed to grow isn't storing detritus on site any longer. Your current rocks blast off a cloud of funk if you pick them up and shake them mid tank, people who don't make large tank restoration threads want you to keep that feed base. The result is dead bryopsis, fed cyano, now begin to add cyano cures to your water, always reacting, they don't take the future into consideration over the topical kill.
The opposite condition is shaking and twisting an algae-free rock in the middle of the tank, and nothing casts off because you've cleared out the rocks and made your most important filter area no longer eutrophic. The opposite condition to feeding your bryopsis is being able to reach in, grab sand to the bottom, drop it in tank (or have no sand, until you earn invasion free condition) and nothing clouds, it snow globes, now you aren't feeding and housing waste. Your reef is bio-new. It's mudless, that's all. All corals and fish and animals are brighter after the full cleaning, thankful to be swimming in less waste, less eutrophic conditions.
That above just culled 99% of readers from practice since it involves work, accountability for not gardening directly, and total rule breaking by forcing all waste mud out of your tank. this leaves only the 1% who are serious about taking back their investment.
When your rocks are out of the tank as it's being cleaned, use a metal ice pick or a steak knife to target -rasp- the algae out of its holdfast area, bite it with the digging tool like the beak from an urchin or a bite from a small parrotfish. Got a big job? Procrastinators probs. Some people choose to act before 99% internal coverage.
Once the rock is cleared manually, rasped like a dentist does to plaque, hit the cleaned (formerly invaded areas) with peroxide and let it soak a bit, rinse off, reassemble your clean reef.
Lastly, in last place after you've worked, with the tank passing all clouding tests, dose your fluc to the
-clean condition-
you just earned for your whole tank. All the clean up crew you want, go in the clean condition tank-not the invaded one. Start few, add more based on -growback- assessments which vary tank to tank. You don't drop thirty astreas into a cloudy, fully invaded reef so that snail waste helps the plants further. See how opposite the uninvaded live? This is the stage for your constant detailed param measuring and adjustment, the clean condition tank.
Params are set once, and maintained to what corals like **theyre not set to what starves algae***
Now that you read ways to be algae free without testing and adjusting params, consistency increases for your corals/they like/secrets of the uninvaded.
The latest reefing trends about adjusting N and P up and down, in reaction to invasions, are ignoring the very organic stores that initially cause many imbalances. Watch your internet cure threads coming up to see how many ways there are to deal with the imbalances that mass storing of eutrophication fuel causes for people who measure nitrate and phosphate ratios
Position your fluc not as a mass kill, so everything rots in tank and contributes to detritus stores- but position your fluconazole as the ultimate preventative.
if and when some still pops up (hesitators problems, did removing dandelions only once clear your garden?) you revert to lifting that rock out, and rasp killing (gardening, dandelioning) always use your hands and will to be algae free, not a backseat doser. Backseating is what gets us invaded, not a parameter or light or vectoring or water or sunlight problem.
Being fully sure that full tank cleaning is bad, while being fully invaded, is also a recurring problem pattern in threads. It's an amazing fact that the invaded are the best critics of what works or not for tank invasions, be open to new approaches especially if you have a tank under forty gallons, easy to access.
If you are serious about getting uninvaded then quit following what the masses do and try something opposite. Read big work threads like this one--discover related details between noncompliant tanks, and evolve with that.
Don't just keep posting to page 500 water dosing on top of total cloud for years still in place, that'll have some people not getting fixed we can see. post something -different- you've done to hedge chances and how they include fluconazole.
There are no fish, corals, or live rock inhabitants that are stressed if the cleaning is done right, following cleaning thread examples. This condition makes them healthier; not stressed. Stressed is the myriad param changes people make for months on end with hardly any sustained invader compliance. Have a busy weekend- enjoy your tank quickly afterwards.
I love fluconazole, but I love reworking tanks and truly addressing causatives much better. Fluc is in my toolbag. I'll never need it, as I don't store cloud nor entertain invaders. it's in my toolbag for thread work that's for sure because I can still use it to get a kill in some challenge tanks even though in the end they're not going to clean anything whatsoever.
For the green plant invader phase of always keeping detritus in the system, fluc is wonderful. It is perfectly intended for that rare reefer who keeps a clean tank, isn't reactive in nature, but still somehow selects for bryopsis based on their unique conditions. The ability of fluconazole to work true wonders in the cleaned, guided and cloudless tank is amazing and it beats peroxide in every way for bryopsis work. It even beats what 35% direct application of peroxide can do for bryopsis.
B
An exact example of what I'm talking about, every detail, in a nice big reef tank
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/beeping-green-hair-algae.527285/page-3
He can use fluconazole if required to stave off the next cleanup. Since he reduced the self-feeding mass of plants, any fluc used now vastly outweighs the actual mass of plants it's intended to work against. Opposite of every application here so far evolves options
Don't forget one change up in the order of ops that could drastically change growback issues
We had to evolve the same way in the peroxide years, initial kill usually isn't a problem for these plant kill options that rotate into the hobby each decade
Growback is where it's at, for the serious.
This below is the most powerful gha and bryopsis and red/green brush algae remover known to the hobby, an order of operations that places removers and preventatives at different intervals- and it deals with holdfast regeneration.
Those missing items are your noncompliant tanks here, every page, just like a huge peroxide thread
Fluc is powerful, it deserves a reefy award and will be permanent tool but it needs positioning vs being the sole action we depend on to save a tank
The reports of growback will lessen drastically if things are evolved
Before treatment of anything, decloud your entire tank. Take it apart, fix the cloudy sandbed feeding everything you don't want. Do the number one thing you don't want to do, the number one thing people who don't fix up aquariums will tell you not to do-clean that cloudy filthy aquarium before you dose anything
Clean off your rocks such that all the pent up algae allowed to grow isn't storing detritus on site any longer. Your current rocks blast off a cloud of funk if you pick them up and shake them mid tank, people who don't make large tank restoration threads want you to keep that feed base. The result is dead bryopsis, fed cyano, now begin to add cyano cures to your water, always reacting, they don't take the future into consideration over the topical kill.
The opposite condition is shaking and twisting an algae-free rock in the middle of the tank, and nothing casts off because you've cleared out the rocks and made your most important filter area no longer eutrophic. The opposite condition to feeding your bryopsis is being able to reach in, grab sand to the bottom, drop it in tank (or have no sand, until you earn invasion free condition) and nothing clouds, it snow globes, now you aren't feeding and housing waste. Your reef is bio-new. It's mudless, that's all. All corals and fish and animals are brighter after the full cleaning, thankful to be swimming in less waste, less eutrophic conditions.
That above just culled 99% of readers from practice since it involves work, accountability for not gardening directly, and total rule breaking by forcing all waste mud out of your tank. this leaves only the 1% who are serious about taking back their investment.
When your rocks are out of the tank as it's being cleaned, use a metal ice pick or a steak knife to target -rasp- the algae out of its holdfast area, bite it with the digging tool like the beak from an urchin or a bite from a small parrotfish. Got a big job? Procrastinators probs. Some people choose to act before 99% internal coverage.
Once the rock is cleared manually, rasped like a dentist does to plaque, hit the cleaned (formerly invaded areas) with peroxide and let it soak a bit, rinse off, reassemble your clean reef.
Lastly, in last place after you've worked, with the tank passing all clouding tests, dose your fluc to the
-clean condition-
you just earned for your whole tank. All the clean up crew you want, go in the clean condition tank-not the invaded one. Start few, add more based on -growback- assessments which vary tank to tank. You don't drop thirty astreas into a cloudy, fully invaded reef so that snail waste helps the plants further. See how opposite the uninvaded live? This is the stage for your constant detailed param measuring and adjustment, the clean condition tank.
Params are set once, and maintained to what corals like **theyre not set to what starves algae***
Now that you read ways to be algae free without testing and adjusting params, consistency increases for your corals/they like/secrets of the uninvaded.
The latest reefing trends about adjusting N and P up and down, in reaction to invasions, are ignoring the very organic stores that initially cause many imbalances. Watch your internet cure threads coming up to see how many ways there are to deal with the imbalances that mass storing of eutrophication fuel causes for people who measure nitrate and phosphate ratios
Position your fluc not as a mass kill, so everything rots in tank and contributes to detritus stores- but position your fluconazole as the ultimate preventative.
if and when some still pops up (hesitators problems, did removing dandelions only once clear your garden?) you revert to lifting that rock out, and rasp killing (gardening, dandelioning) always use your hands and will to be algae free, not a backseat doser. Backseating is what gets us invaded, not a parameter or light or vectoring or water or sunlight problem.
Being fully sure that full tank cleaning is bad, while being fully invaded, is also a recurring problem pattern in threads. It's an amazing fact that the invaded are the best critics of what works or not for tank invasions, be open to new approaches especially if you have a tank under forty gallons, easy to access.
If you are serious about getting uninvaded then quit following what the masses do and try something opposite. Read big work threads like this one--discover related details between noncompliant tanks, and evolve with that.
Don't just keep posting to page 500 water dosing on top of total cloud for years still in place, that'll have some people not getting fixed we can see. post something -different- you've done to hedge chances and how they include fluconazole.
There are no fish, corals, or live rock inhabitants that are stressed if the cleaning is done right, following cleaning thread examples. This condition makes them healthier; not stressed. Stressed is the myriad param changes people make for months on end with hardly any sustained invader compliance. Have a busy weekend- enjoy your tank quickly afterwards.
I love fluconazole, but I love reworking tanks and truly addressing causatives much better. Fluc is in my toolbag. I'll never need it, as I don't store cloud nor entertain invaders. it's in my toolbag for thread work that's for sure because I can still use it to get a kill in some challenge tanks even though in the end they're not going to clean anything whatsoever.
For the green plant invader phase of always keeping detritus in the system, fluc is wonderful. It is perfectly intended for that rare reefer who keeps a clean tank, isn't reactive in nature, but still somehow selects for bryopsis based on their unique conditions. The ability of fluconazole to work true wonders in the cleaned, guided and cloudless tank is amazing and it beats peroxide in every way for bryopsis work. It even beats what 35% direct application of peroxide can do for bryopsis.
B
An exact example of what I'm talking about, every detail, in a nice big reef tank
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/beeping-green-hair-algae.527285/page-3
He can use fluconazole if required to stave off the next cleanup. Since he reduced the self-feeding mass of plants, any fluc used now vastly outweighs the actual mass of plants it's intended to work against. Opposite of every application here so far evolves options
Last edited:
pecan2phat
Valuable Member
I used 1/2 the dosage due to fear of acropora complications. It did exceptionally well but took a while, I would say 4~5 weeks for total eradication. I don't use a skimmer so no skimmer was ever turned back on. I did drop a bag of carbon in on the 6th week and turned my UV back on. One week later (7th week after initial dosing), bryopsis came back in full force, almost worst then the initial amount before dosing fluconazole.
I'm scratching my head at this point, just dosed 1/2 the dosage again and will dose another 1/2 in 7 days for a full 200 mg per 10g this time.
I'm scratching my head at this point, just dosed 1/2 the dosage again and will dose another 1/2 in 7 days for a full 200 mg per 10g this time.
ksanfranfan
Active Member
The dosage amount was originally in litres from Jose Mayo in Brazil. It has been converted to U.S. gallons here on the R2R forums.
ViciousDlishus
Active Member
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So I'm currently on day 21. Still have algae but it is dying off albeit very slowly. I'm basting and removing big chunks manually. Skimmer is still off. Phos is 0.009 Nitrate at 5. Should I continue to leave the skimmer off?
Am I missing the link to buy the meds?
ksanfranfan
Active Member
Some people left their skimmers running during the entire treatment without problems of having an affect on the medication.So I'm currently on day 21. Still have algae but it is dying off albeit very slowly. I'm basting and removing big chunks manually. Skimmer is still off. Phos is 0.009 Nitrate at 5. Should I continue to leave the skimmer off?
ksanfranfan
Active Member
This is the link to payless pet products, many here have used. They have recently changed their policy and only accept bit coin now due to regulations for the medications they sell.
https://payless-petproducts.com/sit...less-petproducts.com/fluconazole200.html#2691
ksanfranfan
Active Member
You can also purchase the Reef Flux fluco capsules from bulk reef supply and a few other vendors. Shouldn't have a problem ordering from them through regular payment methods.
Some people were ordering from a few other retailers as well but this thread has gotten lengthy now.
Some people were ordering from a few other retailers as well but this thread has gotten lengthy now.
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