Bryopsis Cure: My Battle With Bryopsis Using Fluconazole

Did Fluconazole Kill all of your Bryopsis?

  • Yes

  • No

  • I'm treating my tank with it now.

  • I love Bryopsis and I'm mad that everyone is killing it.


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AquamanE

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This is bryposis correct? I’m on a double dose and not seeing results!

DB07D86A-8B04-459B-8234-DFEC2015D736.jpeg DA1DF40D-55AF-4CF1-A340-66BA2AF698AF.jpeg ECC991DD-B332-4E7B-8165-2F8E32BCFAE1.jpeg
I might be wrong, but I dont think that is bryopsis. It looks more like GHA, and is exactly what I have. I am monitoring this thread before I try Fluc.
 

piranhaman00

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I might be wrong, but I dont think that is bryopsis. It looks more like GHA, and is exactly what I have. I am monitoring this thread before I try Fluc.

It has the typical fern like endings, I took the rocks out and dipped in h2o2 for a few hours and ripped out what I could, no livestock in the tank so just going hard at it!
 

gatohoser

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I had been simultaneously treating my tank for Dinos (going on five months now) with a Jebao 55w UV and started fluconazole last week for my bryopsis. The bryopsis quickly has nearly eliminated all signs of bryopsis but the Jebao UV has been releasing plastic particles into the tank as it isn’t Uv resistant PVC and quickly degrades. I pulled it last night but my Walt Disney acro is starting to get ticked as of yesterday. I had an ORA red plant partially RTN the day before the fluco started.

Anyways I’d like to do a 10% water change today to try and help the acros out. Can I do that and just redose some fluconazole equal to what I pull out?
 

Treefer32

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I'm thinking of trying this for some stubborn patches of Bryopsis that won't die no matter how many times I hand pick them. I have a well established ATS. I was wondering if I completely cleaned the screen down to just the canvas. Shut off the scrubber lights so they never come on during the treatment. Would the fluconazale help eliminate any bryopsis cells on the scrubber screen. New algae would grow given I have no light anywhere near my scrubber or my sump other than the LEDS mounted to the scrubber.


I have a 350 gallon display with 75 gallon sump, with rock and sand, probably a net of 320 or so gallons of water. Which means around 6400 mg of Fluconazole.
 

ScottB

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My worry is definitely my more sensitive Acropora than my fish, but I am guessing from what you are saying that it should be safe to dose water change water since I will be removing water at the same time

The metals source is a bit of a long story. The tin showed up in my RODI water as well, so first I fixed that. It was a float valve that was made for reefing and had no rust, but when I removed it, the tin went away, but the tin in the tank never cleared. I searched and searched and finally found an old jebao pump that had a metal clip on it. I have several and the newer ones dont have this. I missed it the first time I went through my pumps. So I have all high end equipment except these pumps, and they are what caused me issues! Anyways, the aluminum is from marine pure. I had a ton and I purchased it from Amazon. My understanding is that all marine pure can elevate aluminum, but some of the Amazon stuff was fake and really elevates it. I knew it was a problem, but was scared to remove my bio filter in it, so I have been gradually removing it. I usually had been doing daily water changes and I think this had kept most of this from hurting my Acropora, but during the Fluconazole treatment the acros started losing color and polyp extension. Some of my easier Acropora like birds nest and Stylo stn at the bases. I sent an ICP to the ICP in Colorado since they get the results quickly, and my tin is gone, but my aluminum has jumped to 160 which is very high and more than double my last ATI result. I have now removed all marine pure and been doing very large water changes and my Acropora are looking better. I have sent another ICP to ATI so that I can verify results with the same company I had been using, but I anticipate the results will be much better. I might wait another week and then try the Fluconazole again.

Thanks for the advice, sorry about the long post.

David

Hi. I am trudging through this thread trying to piece together the factors at play when Fluconazole stresses/kills acropora. Anecdotally, 90% of the time nobody gets hurt and the other 10% get crushed. About the same with my local LFS when their service guys use it on customer tanks. In your situation, you identified Tin & Al as suspect contributors. Wondering if you tried again and what the results were like. Also, if you have any indications of PAR in your system, as acropora folks tend toward high PAR.

If you (or anyone with a BAD ACROPORA experience) wish to contribute to this fact finding mission you are welcome to PM me. I have seen fluc work so well against one of the more difficult pests in the hobby, but when it goes bad for acropora, I have seen it go really bad. Thanks.
 

ScottB

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well, Most reefers don't keep a dominant SPS tank... I would say most keep softies and LPS tanks. most of those corals don't have the sensitivity that SPS exhibit. I have to disagree with the premise that if hundreds used it and reporting no side effects. the reason that I posted is to hear is others with SPS dominant tanks had similar results.

The most probable cause of the bleaching effect was in fact this medication since pretty much my system is 100% automated... I have had positive results for years befor the med addition and the same after once I started water changes/GFO/GAC?and protein skimmer back. I have never experienced bleaching like this EVER. I have had RTN and STN but this is niether of those. although I have lost one of my colonies and a frag so far as a result of the bleaching.

I would have to disagree and say that it appears like the bleaching is in fact a direct result of the medication addition in my tank.

I would like to hear others with predominantly SPS tanks with results.

I am trudging through this thread to try and discover what factors contribute to BAD ACROPORA reactions. I have now personally witnessed several great outcomes and one complete acropora bleach. Any piece that wasn't at least partially shaded was toast within 36 hours of dose. There has to be a pattern, although it may take forever to discover.
 

2una

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I am trudging through this thread to try and discover what factors contribute to BAD ACROPORA reactions. I have now personally witnessed several great outcomes and one complete acropora bleach. Any piece that wasn't at least partially shaded was toast within 36 hours of dose. There has to be a pattern, although it may take forever to discover.

Maybe when you find those with problems ask what brand they used might uncover something - i've used 4 different chemist brought brands but always in capsule form and have never had any acro problem with any (i'm non US so not a lot of help).
I also DO leave my skimmer on turned down low(DC) so my ph don't take a hell drop not running for 2 weeks.
Dosing people that's maybe not so much an issue but carx users maybe another story.
Good luck trying to pin down the issue
 

drawman

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Hi. I am trudging through this thread trying to piece together the factors at play when Fluconazole stresses/kills acropora. Anecdotally, 90% of the time nobody gets hurt and the other 10% get crushed. About the same with my local LFS when their service guys use it on customer tanks. In your situation, you identified Tin & Al as suspect contributors. Wondering if you tried again and what the results were like. Also, if you have any indications of PAR in your system, as acropora folks tend toward high PAR.

If you (or anyone with a BAD ACROPORA experience) wish to contribute to this fact finding mission you are welcome to PM me. I have seen fluc work so well against one of the more difficult pests in the hobby, but when it goes bad for acropora, I have seen it go really bad. Thanks.
I am trudging through this thread to try and discover what factors contribute to BAD ACROPORA reactions. I have now personally witnessed several great outcomes and one complete acropora bleach. Any piece that wasn't at least partially shaded was toast within 36 hours of dose. There has to be a pattern, although it may take forever to discover.
I wonder if running a polyfilter may be helpful then. Not sure how well it would take out Tin and Aluminum vs the Fluconazole...
 

Vahanyos

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I'll post pictures soon.... but I used Fluco on 2/1/20, i have a 42g display with another 8g in sump, so let's say 50g total water volume. Turned off my skimmer and removed my chemipure elite. Only thing running on tank is my return, flow pumps, heater, and lights. I poured two capsules of the fluco in some salt water, mixed it up, and dosed the tank. the next day, i poured one more capsule in salt water, mixed it up, and dosed the tank. so I dosed total 3 pills in a 2 day period (i think it's 20mg each pill..). Fast forward 13 days, and the bryopsis is almost entirely gone. I see very small strands in area's where it was a giant 1970's pornstar bush... I don't see any negative impact on my corals or fish. Everything is still looking the exact same as it was before i dosed the tank. If anything, i see some of my zoa's opening up more. The bryopsis was irritating them for sure....

Long story short, it's been 13 days since i dosed 3 capsules of fluco in my tank and the bryopsis is almost all gone. I plan to do a water change in a couple days or so.... and then probably dose a little bit more after the water change and just monitor it for the next few weeks to see if it'll stay gone, or if i need to supp. dose fluco to make sure it doesn't return...
 

ScottB

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I'll post pictures soon.... but I used Fluco on 2/1/20, i have a 42g display with another 8g in sump, so let's say 50g total water volume. Turned off my skimmer and removed my chemipure elite. Only thing running on tank is my return, flow pumps, heater, and lights. I poured two capsules of the fluco in some salt water, mixed it up, and dosed the tank. the next day, i poured one more capsule in salt water, mixed it up, and dosed the tank. so I dosed total 3 pills in a 2 day period (i think it's 20mg each pill..). Fast forward 13 days, and the bryopsis is almost entirely gone. I see very small strands in area's where it was a giant 1970's pornstar bush... I don't see any negative impact on my corals or fish. Everything is still looking the exact same as it was before i dosed the tank. If anything, i see some of my zoa's opening up more. The bryopsis was irritating them for sure....

Long story short, it's been 13 days since i dosed 3 capsules of fluco in my tank and the bryopsis is almost all gone. I plan to do a water change in a couple days or so.... and then probably dose a little bit more after the water change and just monitor it for the next few weeks to see if it'll stay gone, or if i need to supp. dose fluco to make sure it doesn't return...

Awesome to hear! With one notable exception this has been my experience as well. Out of curiosity, could you share your water parameters at the time of dose? ALK, PO4, NO3?

Also, did you have any acropora in the tank?

Enjoy your new tank. Bryopsis is hellish.
 

Vahanyos

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Awesome to hear! With one notable exception this has been my experience as well. Out of curiosity, could you share your water parameters at the time of dose? ALK, PO4, NO3?

Also, did you have any acropora in the tank?

Enjoy your new tank. Bryopsis is hellish.

I wish I can tell you my parameters. Sadly, I haven’t been testing. Been using different salt and just monitoring salinity and temp only, lots of neglect for the big 3. there’s been fluctuations for sure. No acropora - just a Birdsnest type, and green montipora, and spirulina I think? See pic

image.jpg image.jpg
 

xabo

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Treated my tank with Flux Rx for bryopsis. Instead of mixing with water, my dumb butt dumped the powder into the tank not realizing that I should have mixed it first. Should I do another treatment mixed with water or wait it out a few days? 7000 mg into a 225 gal. with a 60 gal. sump.
 

Jose Mayo

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Muito bom dia a todos!

Escrevo em português porque evidentemente domino melhor o meu próprio idioma, me desculpem.

É, de fato, um prazer enorme verificar que, depois de transcorridos já 8 anos do início das minhas primeiras experimentações com o Fluconazol (após observação pessoal de um efeito colateral interessante, sobre as microalgas e sobre a Bryopsis, durante o tratamento de um peixe que apresentava fungos, no ano de 2013), essa abordagem se consolidou como efetiva e tem ajudado muitos aquaristas, ao redor do mundo, a recuperarem o controle dos seus aquários após a infestação por essas pragas antiestéticas e mesmo tóxicas para os corais, que podem ser as algas Bryopsis, Derbesia e mesmo outras, que também demonstraram serem sensíveis ao Fluconazol em diferentes protocolos e diferentes concentrações.

Agradeço profundamente a @NCreefguy e outros tantos colegas aquaristas que confiaram nos meus primeiros relatos e resolveram também experimentar, e relatar os seus experimentos, para benefício de todos.

A todos os colegas, os meus mais elevados protestos de estima e consideração!

Obrigado!
 

joaocdestro

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THANKS FOR THIS TUTORIAL, IT SOLVED MY PROBLEM OF GHA AND BRYOPSIS! Tks @NCreefguy

Day 1 - 37 CAPSULES FLUCONAZOLE 150MG TO 1100Liters - Bryopsis Kill complete after 6 days
Day 7 - 37 CAPSULES FLUCONAZOLE 150MG TO 1100Liters - GHA Kill 10 days +

No water change between dosages neider after
On the 2nd Dosage it killed my GHA (Green Hair Alagae)
Fluconazole open the capsule and I put on the shaker to mix better with water

Pics Before X Aftere (same angle)
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ScottB

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I'm thinking of trying this for some stubborn patches of Bryopsis that won't die no matter how many times I hand pick them. I have a well established ATS. I was wondering if I completely cleaned the screen down to just the canvas. Shut off the scrubber lights so they never come on during the treatment. Would the fluconazale help eliminate any bryopsis cells on the scrubber screen. New algae would grow given I have no light anywhere near my scrubber or my sump other than the LEDS mounted to the scrubber.


I have a 350 gallon display with 75 gallon sump, with rock and sand, probably a net of 320 or so gallons of water. Which means around 6400 mg of Fluconazole.

I think I may be late in contributing but...

The fluc only works effectively DURING photosynthesis, therefor you would want to run the light during treatment.
 

Marc2952

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Like s tempest, have had tremendous results using Flucon to eliminate pest algae. I know there are many who have been unsuccessful but I can't say enough good things about this treatment method.
Can you dose fluconazole as you dealing with dinos? I got dinos GHA and briopsys im in a fence here.
 

Trueblue17

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Can you dose fluconazole as you dealing with dinos? I got dinos GHA and briopsys im in a fence here.
I just beat dinos in my tanks , had to feed the heck out of the tank for two weeks , with no cleaning at all no skimmer and no bacteria added or dosing anything just feed the tank heavy to get nitrates and phosphates back up abit off 0 , I would get your nutrients up first and get rid of the dinos ,then attack the bryopsis after the dinos are cleared up , as I believe they are different , ones an algea ones not (although I could be wrong on that they do need different approaches ), the more cleaning i did the worse the dinos got, gotta get the nutrients up, fluconazole probably wont help with the dinos. unless the bryopsis die off puts the needed nutrients in the water to bring your nutrients up maybe.
 

ScottB

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Can you dose fluconazole as you dealing with dinos? I got dinos GHA and briopsys im in a fence here.

It is a good question. As ironic and unusual as it seems to have cultured all three at the same time, I have seen it here.

I tend toward trying to limit my change inputs to a system whether it is stable or not. That said, I don't immediately see a problem with raising nutrients, running UV and dosing fluc, but I will hedge by saying my opinion would depend upon what corals I am keeping. If rare/expensive I would probably take a serial approach. Solve the most urgent first. Let it settle. Move to next treatment.
 
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