bubble scrubbing

[W@tchm@n]

Hi All,

I posted a thread in the main forum regarding some issues I have been having.
Seems to be identified as Dinos... annoying, established tank!

Anyway, my parameters are good... PH maybe abit low, around 7.7 mark with Salifert...
All others within range. But my sand is constantly brown!!

A few suggestions were put forward, such as taking all the sand out and giving it a good rinse... I don’t think this is an option for me, the tank is 5x2x2 150G... and although I don’t have a deep sand bed... this would be alot of work getting it out and then back in again... plus I’m not sure how much that much of disruption would be handled by the tank... I try to keep my hands out of there as much as possible.

I have added more flow to try to combat this. I now have 2x Jabao RW8 on one side and one monster Jabao RW20 on the opposite end. Previously I had 1 RW8 on either end.

It was recommended in that thread that I turn off my GFO reactor, which I have done last night. My Phos is measuring undetectable, Salifert.
Apparently zero Phos is not great re Dinos.

Also, a few guys on that thread seem to have had success battling Dinos using the bubble scrubbing method.
Is anyone here in the UK using this method, and if so what air stone can you recommend and where did you get it from?
Also, if you think that this is a good/bad idea overall (bubble scrubbing), please can you share your thoughts.

Thanks!

 

[Paullawr]

Hi

I've heard of people bubble scrubbing dinoflagellates. I think the idea originated in the states by elegant corals, at least that was the first time I heard of it.

I think the idea is two fold. Increased O2 will drive up pH and the bubbles can help export the snotty mat they produce. It was believed higher pH has a negative effect.
This has been proven incorrect in at least one strain doing the rounds. Infact the pH it tolerates is between 6.5 and 9.5.

Coincidentally it sounds likely its the strain you have(amphidinium), though it would require a microscope ID to be certain.

Bubble scrubbing has been used within the science community on dinoflagellate strains but that was in addition to chlorine use. The two combined had a positive effect. The paper was around the prevention of dinoflagellates being spread by shipping vessels. Not ideal replication for us though.

What about just bubble scrubbing the home aquaria? Well truthfully I couldn't tell you whether it was successful in export of the cells. It may benefit but to me this I just another part of the kitchen sink being thrown at it.

High flow doesn't tend to make any difference, infact majority of species enjoy it.

The current thought process.... Is to increase po4 and no3. To detectable levels.
Its being mooted that by doing so you increase microfauna (which would be in very low numbers due to starvation at low (read near zero) levels.

I don't disagree though I also have my own theory in that these levels have a calming effect on the dinoflagellates. The bloom can be attributed to a stress event. Caused by lack of available nutrients.
Nature tends to give do everything it can to survive and by rapidly taking in any available nutrients with the aim of reproduction it can safeguard itself from extinction.
Little does it know its not in the ocean.

Regardless of what theory is right, increasing nutrients does seem to have a negative effect on them. There is a less desire to bloom and what had bloomed is eventually exported by filtration.

If it is amphidinium increasing nutrients and cleaning sand out of aquarium is the best option. If its another free swimming variety then go for a big UV. Good quality. Cheaper units don't seem to have the same effect. Despite having equal or more wattage. Not sure what key difference but does appear to be one from a recent found up of units. Still if money is tight look to go for the jebao's 55w and maybe consider running more than one in line.

Again not point doing this without ID. Though having said this it's not uncommon to have more than one strain.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/page-131#post-4415647

Good luck.

 

[loweryphil]

Hi All,

I posted a thread in the main forum regarding some issues I have been having.
Seems to be identified as Dinos... annoying, established tank!

Anyway, my parameters are good... PH maybe abit low, around 7.7 mark with Salifert...
All others within range. But my sand is constantly brown!!

A few suggestions were put forward, such as taking all the sand out and giving it a good rinse... I don’t think this is an option for me, the tank is 5x2x2 150G... and although I don’t have a deep sand bed... this would be alot of work getting it out and then back in again... plus I’m not sure how much that much of disruption would be handled by the tank... I try to keep my hands out of there as much as possible.

I have added more flow to try to combat this. I now have 2x Jabao RW8 on one side and one monster Jabao RW20 on the opposite end. Previously I had 1 RW8 on either end.

It was recommended in that thread that I turn off my GFO reactor, which I have done last night. My Phos is measuring undetectable, Salifert.
Apparently zero Phos is not great re Dinos.

Also, a few guys on that thread seem to have had success battling Dinos using the bubble scrubbing method.
Is anyone here in the UK using this method, and if so what air stone can you recommend and where did you get it from?
Also, if you think that this is a good/bad idea overall (bubble scrubbing), please can you share your thoughts.

Thanks!

Did you get it sorted? Same size tank as yours and I'm In the UK and im Stirling the sand and bubble scrubbing with a wooden air stone. UV is in the sump next to my return pump and feeding back into the return intake. I went for A V2 VECTON 600 UV. as these are spec for up to 600L my system is 525l.