Bulkhead drain leak, can’t get it to stop?

[NancyFish]

make sure the gasket is on the right way one side has ribs and one side is smooth

The gasket that came with this overflow has both sides smooth.. the four other bulkheads in the overflow aren’t leaking, or being anywhere as sensitive

 

[Justfebreezeit]

Id get a wrench and try snugging it past hand tight. Sounds like you might have to cut it out and redo it anyways might as well try going tighter.

 

[rpkneumann]

The way i fixed my leaking ....
- take the bulkhead off
- clean all surfaces. (glas, gasket and bulkhead
- ring of aquarium silicon on both sides. Not to much
- hand tighten
- wait a few hours before filling again to give the silicon chance to cure.
done, leak gone.

 

[NancyFish]

Id get a wrench and try snugging it past hand tight. Sounds like you might have to cut it out and redo it anyways might as well try going tighter.

One of the times I really tightened it - like two hand tight (figured tight is subjective to the hand) which I didn’t need with the other and it got it almost non existent but it was still there. And I tightened it again and it was stayed the same size drops.

I’m trying one more time to reseat it, then maybe one more with the silicone lubricant in the morning.. but if that doesn’t fix it I assume I’m cutting into tomorrow.

 

[NancyFish]

The way i fixed my leaking ....
- take the bulkhead off
- clean all surfaces. (glas, gasket and bulkhead
- ring of aquarium silicon on both sides. Not to much
- hand tighten
- wait a few hours before filling again to give the silicon chance to cure.
done, leak gone.

Has this worked good long term? Chat gpt mentioned I can silicone around the nut.. but I feel like I’m looking for bandaids at this point when I really want a long term fix without cutting the pipe out to change it.

 

[Badblackdog]

Try some plumbers tape on the threads of the connection.

 

[BeanAnimal]

That solved my first leak between the tank and overflow. Now I have another in one of my drain bulkheads coming down the bottom of the box by the nut / threads.

Photos would help

Flange can be on either side (wet or dry) but gasket always goes between flange and tank.

Hand tight then a quarter turn or so. Silicone grease can help but can also allow the gasket to squeeze out. Make sure no debris is between gasket and surfaces and there are no imperfections.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Has this worked good long term? Chat gpt mentioned I can silicone around the nut.. but I feel like I’m looking for bandaids at this point when I really want a long term fix without cutting the pipe out to change it.

Do not silicone around the nut. That is a band aid at best and likely just a waste of time and a mess.

 

[BeanAnimal]

How can you tell if you stripped it, is it obvious? I’m kinda worried I’m going to ruin the bulkhead even though it’s new with how much I’m tugging on it and retreading.

It’s just driving me nuts, all the other bulkheads are fine, I can’t figure it out. I even took off the end of the pipe so no weight pulling on it and it’s still dripping - so it has to just be the gasket or nut - both of which I’d have to totally replace the whole pipe (bulkhead, sump fitting, gate valve, union - unless I try cutting somewhere. to try this again

The nut has NOTHING to do with sealing and is only there to pull the flange tight against the gasket and tank surface. Large bulkheads may have a washer on the nut side, this is just to make it easier to turn the nut.

 

[NancyFish]

Thank you for all your replies, and everyone else. I appreciate it - was literally tinkering with the same bulkhead all day debating my life choices.

I reseated it for the last time, it looks like the drip may be gone! BUT this time I noticed the bulkhead has a little smooth but decently raised lump in it from manufacturing, maybe this was my problem? I’m wondering if that can lead to a problem down the line and I should still replace it anyways.

I can’t get a photo of the flange since I can only lift it while inside the overflow but I can attach a photo where it was leaking all day. I’m going to leave it go and hope it’s dry in the morning. I’ll be honest, I’m fearful to move it to its final location (garage water test) after how much of a mess trying to fix this was.

The nut has NOTHING to do with sealing and is only there to pull the flange tight against the gasket and tank surface. Large bulkheads may have a washer on the nut side, this is just to make it easier to turn the nut.

 

[Peace River]

Fingers crossed! Good luck!!!

 

[CrabMech]

The nut has NOTHING to do with sealing and is only there to pull the flange tight against the gasket and tank surface. Large bulkheads may have a washer on the nut side, this is just to make it easier to turn the nut.

This is correct.

RTV silicone could be used to help seal under the flange side but it should not be necessary and it is not standard practice. If the gasket is in good shape and the surfaces are clean and free of damage then the fitting should seal on its own.

I reseated it for the last time, it looks like the drip may be gone! BUT this time I noticed the bulkhead has a little smooth but decently raised lump in it from manufacturing, maybe this was my problem? I’m wondering if that can lead to a problem down the line and I should still replace it anyways.

Flaws on the flange side of a bulkhead fitting can cause sealing problems. I can't see the bump so I can't give an informed opinion on your situation but that is a possible issue. In the past I've had problems getting bulkhead fittings on industrial tanks to seal because of molding seams affecting the sealing surface of the flange.

That said, now that I can see the fittings involved, I think it could be tricky to get the nuts tight enough unless you happen to have unusually strong hands. I would use a wrench or water pump pliers and gently tighten the nut a little more and I bet it will seal. Don't get a long wrench and really crank on it, just turn it a little beyond hand tight, about 1/8 to a 1/4 turn more.

 

[NancyFish]

Fingers crossed! Good luck!!!

This is correct.

RTV silicone could be used to help seal under the flange side but it should not be necessary and it is not standard practice. If the gasket is in good shape and the surfaces are clean and free of damage then the fitting should seal on its own.



Flaws on the flange side of a bulkhead fitting can cause sealing problems. I can't see the bump so I can't give an informed opinion on your situation but that is a possible issue. In the past I've had problems getting bulkhead fittings on industrial tanks to seal because of molding seams affecting the sealing surface of the flange.

That said, now that I can see the fittings involved, I think it could be tricky to get the nuts tight enough unless you happen to have unusually strong hands. I would use a wrench or water pump pliers and gently tighten the nut a little more and I bet it will seal. Don't get a long wrench and really crank on it, just turn it a little beyond hand tight, about 1/8 to a 1/4 turn more.

Whatever happened it’s holding without leaks, and I tried running my pump full force and everything seems solid .

The imperfection I found is definitely a little more raised than the standard moulding imperfections, but it’s not leaking?

I’m unsure if I want to just replace it now to be on the safe side - or if it’s not leaking I’m good to go.

You all were helpful though, it was so finicky I never thought the leak would stop.

 

[ScottD]

I know it won’t look the most elegant, but you could cut the pipe in between the bulkhead and the fitting and glue it back together with a coupling. This would allow you to replace the bulkhead with minimal replumbing and give you peace of mind that it won’t leak.

 

[NancyFish]

I know it won’t look the most elegant, but you could cut the pipe in between the bulkhead and the fitting and glue it back together with a coupling. This would allow you to replace the bulkhead with minimal replumbing and give you peace of mind that it won’t leak.

I have a bulkhead and another union I can swap it out, but if I screw up the length in cut my pipes after won’t be so forgiving. And then I’ll be waiting another week to get pieces in.

It’s running fine so I think it may be but I also don’t want issues down the line.

 

[NancyFish]

Photos would help

I finally got my overflow running too.
Should I change anything?

My internal bulkheads aren’t fully submerged, so the weirs are only getting about 1/4 of water. I also had to use more of my gate valve than I’d like, and I have the secondary just dripping but everything is quiet.

My main 1” drain I think is too big for the 65g system.. all day the only way i finally fixed was adding resistance by the reefmat plumbing.

 

[2Flash1]

Sometimes the plumbing is heavy for those overflow boxes…the added weight will cause them to leak.

 

[rdavidw]

Old school reefer here. I put some clear aquarium silicone sealant on the threads of everything that gets wet. Zero salt weep and easy to remove, and no leaks. Been doing this for about 30 years.

 

[NancyFish]

Sometimes the plumbing is heavy for those overflow boxes…the added weight will cause them to leak.

Like leak down the line? The pipe that has the imperfection is the heaviest pipe with the gate valve.

My bulkhead has a tiny lump on the flange side but I got it to sit right and hasn’t leaked for 2-3 days now. But I’m unsure if I should try to swap it out (even though my spare bulkhead is a little skimpier width wise and I might not line the pipes up as perfect when cutting.

 

[NancyFish]

Old school reefer here. I put some clear aquarium silicone sealant on the threads of everything that gets wet. Zero salt weep and easy to remove, and no leaks. Been doing this for about 30 years.

The threads under the overflow box, not the gasket inside? It’s interesting to see everyone’s different opinions on this, some swear on and other against it.