C-shaped Aquarium Stand

reggiewilliams

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Okay, so the project I’m hoping to build is a c-shape aquarium stand. The aquarium it will be holding up is 9 gallons(34 liter)that will weight approximately 113 lbs (52 kg) when full. It’ll be secured to a stud in the wall with a pretty hefty screw. I kinda want to go for overkill in terms of what the stand could hold in terms of weight.

I’ve included doodles of what I’m imagining and how i might assemble it. I’d use 2X4 lumber, #10 - 4inch steel wood screws(butt joints), 3/8in x 5in steel screws(platforms/squares)and six 10 inch corner braces(reinforce the butt joints).

Would this be more than sufficient for what I aim to do, or should I just go to a steel fabricator and get it done?



Overveiw- https://ibb.co/dcvrkpw

Construction- https://ibb.co/SmpxDB2

End goal- https://ibb.co/fr86Qmq
 
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reggiewilliams

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Heres a reference for calculating cantilever loads

Thanks. I’ll absolutely look into this right now.
Wow! I’m completely out of my depth with that calculator.
 
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reggiewilliams

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You have me interested, but my firewall doesn't like those links.

It's a hard stop too, not the warnings I can "proceed anyways" around like the usual. Something fishy going on?
This might help.
 

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mrlavalamp

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Thanks for attaching the pics.

Without triangulation those plates will add minimal strength unless they are very thick.

All the weight is going to be leveraged on the hardware you use to join the top to the back. Long lag bolts and big washers, maybe, but lumber splits in funny ways some times.

If you turn the top 2x4 vertical and join to the sides of the vertical support I would trust it more, same risks though, just mitigated a little. But you'd have to do the same at the bottom.

Usually the goal is to put vertical support evenly under the load, and piece it together so the wood itself is supporting the load, not the hardware.

I just don't see a way to do that without significantly modifying the shape/fit. Adding depth behind the trunk(?) And increasing the gaps above and below the trunk.

Steel fabricators would probably want to modify this a little to fine tune how it is pieced together, but you could stay much closer to your original concept and dimensions and have it rock solid.
 
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workhz

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I’ve seen some hefty L brackets that I’d trust. If you can build it and stand on it then it’ll support the tank. Maybe sandwiching the wood between two brackets top and bottom might help also. Just test it thoroughly before you leave a tank on it.
 
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reggiewilliams

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Wow. Thanks for all the replies.
I’m strongly considering paying for steel fabrication, but with that being said. I came up with as alternate design. A little beefer this time.

It would still be made of 2x4, with #10 2.5 inch steel wood screws(to connect the majority of the 2x4 together) and 3/8” -16 x 3.5 grade 2 bolds (to connect the cantilevered portions).
 

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Rtaylor

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Wow. Thanks for all the replies.
I’m strongly considering paying for steel fabrication, but with that being said. I came up with as alternate design. A little beefer this time.

It would still be made of 2x4, with #10 2.5 inch steel wood screws(to connect the majority of the 2x4 together) and 3/8” -16 x 3.5 grade 2 bolds (to connect the cantilevered portions).
If you can find a way to design in a brace it would significantly reduce the risk of failure.
 

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Aquarium Specialty - dry goods & marine livestock

howaboutme

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If you can find a way to design in a brace it would significantly reduce the risk of failure.
+1

True structural cantilevers typically require a backspan if no other attachment accommodations are made. In lieu of a backspan, cross bracing will do in this instance. The load isn't too big but I would not risk it w/o any of them. You may satisfy the gravity load but the biggest risk to failure is usually not gravity load (because we overbuild), it is lateral. If you can prevent twisting, that will directly relate to the strength. If you build it like you have drawn, make sure you try to twist the stand. If it moves, not good.

If you can't do a brace in the front, try the back w/ a slight backspan:

1627125343127.png
 

workhz

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Toilets and bathroom cabinets are hung all the time. Sometimes with metal brackets that slip into the item. I think all that wood and 2x4 material is going to look odd.

I’d still think about a metal bracket sandwich with plywood in the middle and anchored to the wall.
 

howaboutme

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Toilets and bathroom cabinets are hung all the time. Sometimes with metal brackets that slip into the item. I think all that wood and 2x4 material is going to look odd.

I’d still think about a metal bracket sandwich with plywood in the middle and anchored to the wall.
They are hung onto blocking that is supported by the studs behind the drywall and then the studs are supported at both the bottom and top. This stand will not be.
 
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