Call Me Crazy - Moving and Resealing a Redsea 900XXL

[Jacked Reefer]

Alright, I seem to have put myself in a bit of a pickle here. As always it starts with facebook marketplace.

Someone about 2 hours from me posted a leaking red sea reefer 900xl. on of the REAR seam is split about 4" down, not the infamous front seam. I have decided I will endeavor on fixing it...

Now my gut tells me this is a bad idea. I can maybe wrangle 3-4 guys, borrow a trailer and get it down to my place, but there are a few issues I am running into moving and resealing such a large tank

1 - I only have harbor freight suction cups rated to hold 150 pounds, I doubt this would stack for all 4 of them, So do i need bigger suction cups? More of them?
2 - I know most on here will say to tear the tank down to bare glass. and for my sanity this is probably what I will end up doing. But is there any way that I could fix just the rear seam? In the pictures the tank is still holding water to about 75 percent full. Do you think just redoing that top inside seam would fix it?
3 - Has anyone on here resealed a tank this big? I have done up to a 75, but it seems to me 8' x 2' sheets of glass makes this a whole different animal.

Appreciate all responses and I will try to document this here win or loose.

 

[exnisstech]

Do just the rear so the front can blow. Reminds me of replacing a section of rusted brake line instead of doing the whole thing. Ya I think your crazy lol.
As to suction cups they can be handy but not at all necessary to move a tank that size. I've moved several 6ft tanks alone with out them. I ended up paying movers to set my WB 330.7 since it weighed over 600 lbs empty. They did it with no suction cups. Just saying I probably wouldn't buy them to move one tank.

 

[edsbeaker]

You asked for it. I’m calling you crazy!!!!
I’m always wondering why anyone would go through this risk to save a few dollars. It’s such an expensive hobby, and the tank is the cheap part. Even if it is repaired, I would always worry about its integrity.
Maybe I’m missing something, or maybe I’m the crazy one.

 

[Harpo]

No thanks. You could not pay me to take this on.

 

[Jacked Reefer]

Do just the rear so the front can blow. Reminds me of replacing a section of rusted brake line instead of doing the whole thing. Ya I think your crazy lol.
As to suction cups they can be handy but not at all necessary to move a tank that size. I've moved several 6ft tanks alone with out them. I ended up paying movers to set my WB 330.7 since it weighed over 600 lbs empty. They did it with no suction cups. Just saying I probably wouldn't buy them to move one tank.

I figured as much lol. Gonna just redo the whole thing. Gotta get a few more tubes of ASI.
As for moving I already have the harbor freight suction cups, I have used them on rimmed tanks up to 180 gallons. And my issue with that is I have limited friends so limited manpower. So whatever I can do to save a few backs.

You asked for it. I’m calling you crazy!!!!
I’m always wondering why anyone would go through this risk to save a few dollars. It’s such an expensive hobby, and the tank is the cheap part. Even if it is repaired, I would always worry about its integrity.
Maybe I’m missing something, or maybe I’m the crazy one.

You can argue that it is an expensive hobby, and to a degree it is. But it CAN be done cheap IME. The issue I have my love for the hobby exceeds the pocketbook I have. And Failure is something I am willing to risk over $2500. I know how insane this sounds hence the title, but I am also considering on buying Euro bracing and bottom bracing.

No thanks. You could not pay me to take this on.

And I am over here paying to take it on.

The reason I have decided to do this is as follows. I want a big, rimless tank. To buy new I would be looking at a minimum of $2500 dollars for something this size. To buy a similar used setup (which normally include coral, fish, and equipment that I do not want) is around 2k, The glass alone would probably be around 1500 If I were to go the full DIY route. And even If I went the cheap route with a plywood build I would be looking at almost a grand still.

Tank, Stand, plumbing, and sump are included for only 300 dollars. All i have to do is reseal the tank, something which I know how to do (albeit on a much smaller scale). This is several grand that I can use towards equipment, fish, live rock, and all the other facets of the build! I have multiple tanks that are 30+ years old, so if the red sea is the one that starts leaking first I will be baffled. I don't mind a little risk to save several thousands, if it were a few hundred I might understand your POV but maybe yall are just in a different tax bracket

 

[I never finish anythi]

You sure are ambitious, but I admire that . Good luck to you I say .

Post pictures and take us on the journey, if you decide to do it .

 

[jsmkmavity]

I think the rimless design is a mistake on tanks that have been routinely failing. I havent checked the specs but the glass thickness is probably PART of the problem. Thinner glass can flex or "bow" more putting additional stress on the seams. They also are probably not using the best silicone, and maybe not cleaning properly prior to assembly or not puting pieces together quickly enough adding to the adhesion problems. Then after all that the tank needs to be assembled in a place where it can stay unmoved until completely cured in a proper temperature environment for best results. Some top bracing or frame would go a long way to minimize future problems. Properly applied high quality silicone makes a very strong bond.

 

[DrkNMighty]

Wish you the best of luck with this! My fear would be it going out again and then all the money “saved” would just be spent in house repair for water damage.

 

[JoeG370Z]

Wish you the best of luck with this! My fear would be it going out again and then all the money “saved” would just be spent in house repair for water damage.

Op this is a good point right here

 

[Jacked Reefer]

You sure are ambitious, but I admire that . Good luck to you I say .

Post pictures and take us on the journey, if you decide to do it .

I will definitely do my best to! I prefer hardheaded rather than ambition

I think the rimless design is a mistake on tanks that have been routinely failing. I havent checked the specs but the glass thickness is probably PART of the problem. Thinner glass can flex or "bow" more putting additional stress on the seams. They also are probably not using the best silicone, and maybe not cleaning properly prior to assembly or not puting pieces together quickly enough adding to the adhesion problems. Then after all that the tank needs to be assembled in a place where it can stay unmoved until completely cured in a proper temperature environment for best results. Some top bracing or frame would go a long way to minimize future problems. Properly applied high quality silicone makes a very strong bond.

Glass appears to be 3/4, Which seems adequate for a system of this size and depth. 2' should not be that much pressure on the glass. Haven't heard of these tanks bowing or breaking, just seam failure.
The silicone is my main concern. I will be using the ASI aquarium sealant as it is almost 100lbs/in^2 stronger (tensile) than the SCS 1200 or the RTV 108. Already stocking up on clamps to hold the tank in place for a week or so and will be doing the work in my fish room rather than garage. When I do the final assembly I will be sure to have a helper so the silicone doesn't film over before I put on the panel.
As I said earlier I am considering euro bracing or extra pieces on the bottom. I am currently leaning towards bottom support as all the failures I see with these tanks are from either not being level or the front bottom popping out. I think four 6" strips of 3/4" glass running front to back. two on each side of the overflow and two in the corners should be more than adequate and gives both the front and back pane each 18sq inches more surface area for adhesion. Effectively 9,180 pounds more tensile strength if the ASI sealant data sheet is correct.

Wish you the best of luck with this! My fear would be it going out again and then all the money “saved” would just be spent in house repair for water damage.

Luckily water damage would be minimal. New trim and maybe a 4-5 inch strip of drywall. No foundation issues as my house is built on a slab. I can also do the work myself. However I have yet to see a catastrophic failure with these. Usually only 20-30 gallons leaking out. and I've had 20 gallons spill before with no major ramifications other than an angry wife. Knocking on wood still as I don't want to Jynx myself with "that will never happen" as I acknowledge it as a genuine possibility that I am prepared for the front seam busting clean off. Which would stink, but nothing that I cant handle. Might have to build a bigger doghouse tho...

 

[BryanM]

House damage would be way more.

Resealing everything is the right path.

Then leak testing, outside, for a month at least.

 

[Jacked Reefer]

House damage would be way more.

Resealing everything is the right path.

Then leak testing, outside, for a month at least.

This is the plan! might even have some kids get in and splash around during the leak test LOL. Can never be to safe!

 

[Jacked Reefer]

Update!

Picked up the tank. I already disassembled the panels for transport. And wow! I can almost peel off this silicone by hand. I don't know what type red sea used for this generation but it doesn't stick to the flat sides of the glass to well at all. Tank is still pretty dirty, So I will begin cleaning each panel with vinegar for coralline and acetone for the remaining silicone. This may take a bit as I estimate the three big pieces weigh about 125 lbs each. But I have a pretty solid Idea for a jig I will build to help me assemble the tank with only 2 people. Stand and sump look good, will have to order feet for the tank as the previous owner did not use the adjustable feet and lost them. So that is my theory on why is started leaking in the first place was the stand not being perfectly level.

Will post some pictures when I get home tonight and will document the build on instagram and maybe youtube if there is enough interest.

The more I think about this the more reasonable it sounds, so maybe I am not as crazy as I first thought.

 

[BryanM]

Update!

Picked up the tank. I already disassembled the panels for transport. And wow! I can almost peel off this silicone by hand. I don't know what type red sea used for this generation but it doesn't stick to the flat sides of the glass to well at all. Tank is still pretty dirty, So I will begin cleaning each panel with vinegar for coralline and acetone for the remaining silicone. This may take a bit as I estimate the three big pieces weigh about 125 lbs each. But I have a pretty solid Idea for a jig I will build to help me assemble the tank with only 2 people. Stand and sump look good, will have to order feet for the tank as the previous owner did not use the adjustable feet and lost them. So that is my theory on why is started leaking in the first place was the stand not being perfectly level.

Will post some pictures when I get home tonight and will document the build on instagram and maybe youtube if there is enough interest.

The more I think about this the more reasonable it sounds, so maybe I am not as crazy as I first thought.

Good luck!

Your info re silicone sounds quite similar to others that have taken them apart.

 

[Jacked Reefer]

Good luck!

Your info re silicone sounds quite similar to others that have taken them apart.

Yikes!
Even the aqueons I resealed I had to really fight to get all the silicone off the glass, But I was picking at the silicone on this one after I had moved it into the garage and it came off like a sticker! it didnt even leave any visible residue! No wonder these tanks have a reputation for failing.

The lack of hold on this silicone makes me wonder if i need any additional bracing. Maybe using ASI silicone and adding the feet to the stand will fix whatever problems caused this tank to leak originally. Still debating on if the safety factor needs increased as with the safety factor calculations the glass only needs to be 0.60 inches thick, and the glass is 0.75 on this tank.

 

[oliver1812]

Update!

Picked up the tank. I already disassembled the panels for transport. And wow! I can almost peel off this silicone by hand. I don't know what type red sea used for this generation but it doesn't stick to the flat sides of the glass to well at all. Tank is still pretty dirty, So I will begin cleaning each panel with vinegar for coralline and acetone for the remaining silicone. This may take a bit as I estimate the three big pieces weigh about 125 lbs each. But I have a pretty solid Idea for a jig I will build to help me assemble the tank with only 2 people. Stand and sump look good, will have to order feet for the tank as the previous owner did not use the adjustable feet and lost them. So that is my theory on why is started leaking in the first place was the stand not being perfectly level.

Will post some pictures when I get home tonight and will document the build on instagram and maybe youtube if there is enough interest.

The more I think about this the more reasonable it sounds, so maybe I am not as crazy as I first thought.

I would be interested in seeing this via Youtube!! Count me in!