Can’t get rid of cyano

[teethdoctor23]

Been dealing with Cyano for a couple weeks now. Water parameters from this morning below. First thing I tried was Microbacter clean, been dosing it every day. Next I installed a UV sterilizer, after noticing it disappears when the light turns off every night, and reappears every day, mostly on the rocks. I have been manually removing it with a toothbrush but it just seems to come back. I added some Asteria snails as well. I’ve been using RODI water for topping off. Really need some ideas. Lots of corals in the tank, including SPS and LPS that have been unaffected thus far by the Cyano. Any help is appreciated.

Water parameters:
Salinity: 1.025
Nitrates: 6.4
Phos: 0.07
Calcium: 417
Mag: 1455
Alk: 9.3
PH: 8.3

 

[vetteguy53081]

Been dealing with Cyano for a couple weeks now. Water parameters from this morning below. First thing I tried was Microbacter clean, been dosing it every day. Next I installed a UV sterilizer, after noticing it disappears when the light turns off every night, and reappears every day, mostly on the rocks. I have been manually removing it with a toothbrush but it just seems to come back. I added some Asteria snails as well. I’ve been using RODI water for topping off. Really need some ideas. Lots of corals in the tank, including SPS and LPS that have been unaffected thus far by the Cyano. Any help is appreciated.

Water parameters:
Salinity: 1.025
Nitrates: 6.4
Phos: 0.07
Calcium: 417
Mag: 1455
Alk: 9.3
PH: 8.3

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire and phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[teethdoctor23]

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire and phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

Currently have 3 nassarius and 4 astrea snails in the tank, as well as a fighting conch. I was thinking of adding a tuxedo urchin as well.

im trying to avoid blacking out the tank due to my corals. My white light is at 5%, rest are blues. Does hydrogen peroxide have any negative effect on corals, fish or other invertebrates? I’m already dosing Microbacter clean daily. Nutrients appear to be in check, I’m feeding every other day to possibly even lower them. Tank has plenty of flow, between recirculation pump, return pump and gyre. Water changes have been done weekly. Tank is not overstocked. Need some other ideas rather than a generic response. Thanks

 

[PeterC99]

Three things got rid of my cyano:

1) Strong UV light
2) Started an Oxydator (look for threads on this site)
3) Phytoplankton every other day

Before and after pics (also have since increased the light intensity by 10% on my Radions)

 

[teethdoctor23]

Three things got rid of my cyano:

1) Strong UV light
2) Started an Oxydator (look for threads on this site)
3) Phytoplankton every other day

Before and after pics (also have since increased the light intensity by 10% on my Radions)

Should I increase the UV light on my. AI Hydra 26 lights? It’s at 55% right now. What type of phytoplankton?

 

[PeterC99]

No - separate UV sterilizer light like this.

57 Watt Classic UV Sterilizer (Up to 355g) - White Body

Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizers will eradicate algae, bacteria, and protozoa without any harmful chemicals or additives! UV lamps emit a wavelength that will alter and disrupt the DNA or RNA of single-celled organisms. Combining the UV lamp into a large housing allows for maximum contact time...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[teethdoctor23]

No - separate UV sterilizer light like this.

57 Watt Classic UV Sterilizer (Up to 355g) - White Body

Aqua Ultraviolet UV Sterilizers will eradicate algae, bacteria, and protozoa without any harmful chemicals or additives! UV lamps emit a wavelength that will alter and disrupt the DNA or RNA of single-celled organisms. Combining the UV lamp into a large housing allows for maximum contact time...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Ah I have a UV sterilizer I just setup this past Wednesday. Hoping it will start working soon. Additionally, how about the phytoplankton?

 

[PeterC99]

Phytoplankton strains and uses in a saltwater tank

Learn about the most popular phtyoplankton strains and uses in a saltwater tank

www.saltwateraquariumblog.com

 

[teethdoctor23]

Phytoplankton strains and uses in a saltwater tank

Learn about the most popular phtyoplankton strains and uses in a saltwater tank

www.saltwateraquariumblog.com

Any chance you can recommend a brand you use? I’ve seen seachem, brightwell etc. just wondering what you prefer

 

[Uncle99]

Unless that stuff goes up into the water column, It won’t pass through the UV light, so not going to make a big dif.

Cyano (and Dino) populate when nutrients are unstable or in new systems.

 

[teethdoctor23]

Unless that stuff goes up into the water column, It won’t pass through the UV light, so not going to make a big dif.

Cyano (and Dino) populate when nutrients are unstable or in new systems.

Nitrates and phosphates have been very stable over the period I’ve developed Cyano. Nitrates been 5-6.5 and phosphate between 0.06-0.07

 

[vetteguy53081]

Currently have 3 nassarius and 4 astrea snails in the tank, as well as a fighting conch. I was thinking of adding a tuxedo urchin as well.

im trying to avoid blacking out the tank due to my corals. My white light is at 5%, rest are blues. Does hydrogen peroxide have any negative effect on corals, fish or other invertebrates? I’m already dosing Microbacter clean daily. Nutrients appear to be in check, I’m feeding every other day to possibly even lower them. Tank has plenty of flow, between recirculation pump, return pump and gyre. Water changes have been done weekly. Tank is not overstocked. Need some other ideas rather than a generic response. Thanks

Peroxide safe and this bacteria lovews light. The low percentage mentioned is safe for coral as Ive told too many of thi method who were ecstatic with results.
What test kits are you using?
UV will have effect only what passes thru bulb abdd channel and bot what is pre-existing

 

[teethdoctor23]

Hannah for my test kits

 

[Uncle99]

Nitrates and phosphates have been very stable over the period I’ve developed Cyano. Nitrates been 5-6.5 and phosphate between 0.06-0.07

How long is that “period” you post?
Time is the magic which makes that go away.

 

[teethdoctor23]

How long is that “period” you post?
Time is the magic which makes that go away.

So it’s been about 2 weeks of Cyano, my nitrates and phosphates have been stable for a few months now.

 

[sixty_reefer]

Have you got np bacto balance available in your area?

 

[teethdoctor23]

Have you got np bacto balance available in your area?

I could definitely order it online, do you think my levels are “false readings” due to the levels of Cyano/other algae in the tank?

 

[sixty_reefer]

I could definitely order it online, do you think my levels are “false readings” due to the levels of Cyano/other algae in the tank?

I believe so, Cyanobacteria is one of those nuisances that thrives in high organic nutrients nitrogen and phosphorus a good way to reduce them is normally by raising carbon, I would suggest you to raise nitrates with sodium nitrate or calcium nitrate only and dose a small amount of no bacto at light out in addition clean the sand bed and rock the best you can and run a good quality GAC this three will aid the removal of build up organic matter that will be producing organic nutrients and the raise in nitrates and organic carbon will encourage the growth of heterotrophic bacteria and outcompete the Cyanobacteria the reason I ask for np is that according to tropic marine nuisances have more trouble trying to use that form of dissolved organic carbon in comparison to vodka and vinegar.

if that not a option you could try and perform a N-Doc analysis from triton and follow they’re instructions to regain your nutrients balance.

 

[teethdoctor23]

I believe so, Cyanobacteria is one of those nuisances that thrives in high organic nutrients nitrogen and phosphorus a good way to reduce them is normally by raising carbon, I would suggest you to raise nitrates with sodium nitrate or calcium nitrate only and dose a small amount of no bacto at light out in addition clean the sand bed and rock the best you can and run a good quality GAC this three will aid the removal of build up organic matter that will be producing organic nutrients and the raise in nitrates and organic carbon will encourage the growth of heterotrophic bacteria and outcompete the Cyanobacteria the reason I ask for np is that according to tropic marine nuisances have more trouble trying to use that form of dissolved organic carbon in comparison to vodka and vinegar.

if that not a option you could try and perform a N-Doc analysis from triton and follow they’re instructions to regain your nutrients balance.

I’ve also seen some ideas of using Microbacter 7, instead of Microbacter clean, and also dosing live phytoplankton. I’m going to try that for a couple weeks in addition to manually removing as much as I can and feeding my fish every other day. I’ll report back. Today, nitrates were 8.1 and phosphates were still 0.07.

 

[sixty_reefer]

I’ve also seen some ideas of using Microbacter 7, instead of Microbacter clean, and also dosing live phytoplankton. I’m going to try that for a couple weeks in addition to manually removing as much as I can and feeding my fish every other day. I’ll report back. Today, nitrates were 8.1 and phosphates were still 0.07.

Mb7 and live phytoplankton are good sources of carbon, mb7 comes with the benefits of adding beneficial bacteria along with carbon and phosphorus, this will also work it may just take longer pending on how much organics are available in the system.
with live phytoplankton you need to make sure that is live before dosing and things like potassium and minerals could affect the assimilation of organic nutrients wile live in the tank.