Can I remove the center door jam so I can slide in my new sump?

[Chewbacca]

I had same problem with sump being long so here is what I had done. On one end of cabinet I cut open the end without messing with the supporting structure and slid the sump in.

 

[Chewbacca]

It also depends on the access around the the tank and stand to work with

 

[Slingshot357]

Well, if anyone is interested the deed is done and I had absolutely nothing to worry about.

At first I couldn't remove the board. I tried hammering it and prying it. Eventually I resorted to cutting it. I cut along the top and as soon as I finished the top cut the board fell out. It was barely even attached at the bottom with a little dab of glue. the jack post fit perfectly. I only hand tightened it. I didn't want to use a wrench for fear of actually flexing the board up.

I realize there are many different things to consider and every situation is different, but even if no single answer might apply to my situation I'm grateful for all the advise and responses everyone provided. It helped me process my own situation and come to a decision. Sometimes just discussing a problem with others helps the person process and think and finally come to their own course of action.

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[ironman187]

I don't think they are "garbage posts" I believe it's other members giving advice so another member doesn't get themselves in a bind or worse get themselves hurt.

Garbage advice with good intent is still garbage advice.

I agree and saying a 1 by 4 can support 2300 lbs live load is not backed up with facts. That is the weight of some small cars on a 1 by 4...... in compression is one thing lateral is another. One needs to be safe.

Actually, it is. There will be a lot of deflection, but that's not the point. I'll repeat this simple fact that negates your argument. The 4 foot spans on the stand do NOT support the bulk of the weight, the corners do.

 

[Chewbacca]

I am glad that you have the jack stand in place rather than free floating such weight. In My own OPINION

 

[KleineVampir]

Why not just drain a good portion of water and slide the tank forward and put the sump in from the back? Looks wide open to me. Seems safer, and less work

Agreed. Pump a bunch of water out, pivot that thing to the side and just put the sump in the back. Then pivot the whole thing back and put the water back in.

 

[KleineVampir]

You don't wanna mess with the structural integrity of your stand if you don't have to.

 

[SMSREEF]

Well, if anyone is interested the deed is done and I had absolutely nothing to worry about.

At first I couldn't remove the board. I tried hammering it and prying it. Eventually I resorted to cutting it. I cut along the top and as soon as I finished the top cut the board fell out. It was barely even attached at the bottom with a little dab of glue. the jack post fit perfectly. I only hand tightened it. I didn't want to use a wrench for fear of actually flexing the board up.

I realize there are many different things to consider and every situation is different, but even if no single answer might apply to my situation I'm grateful for all the advise and responses everyone provided. It helped me process my own situation and come to a decision. Sometimes just discussing a problem with others helps the person process and think and finally come to their own course of action.

Thanks everyone for the help!

I’m so glad this worked out for you! I was watching this thread and really hoping you would be able to do this without the tank cracking.

Good Job @Slingshot357 and thanks for letting us know everything turned out good.

 

[Dragon52]

Here is what I did when I upgraded to a bigger sump. On the side of the stand that I had room I made a cut out 7 then added trim to the piece I cut out so I could make it look like a door.

 

[Brian_68]

Garbage advice with good intent is still garbage advice.



Actually, it is. There will be a lot of deflection, but that's not the point. I'll repeat this simple fact that negates your argument. The 4 foot spans on the stand do NOT support the bulk of the weight, the corners do.

Sorry but your post defies the basic law of gravity and physics and no one has proven Sir Issac Newton wrong on that subject yet. The weight distribution on the bottom of the tank is distributed equally. Physics classes teach us that fact. If it has a plastic rim the weight is distributed fully around the whole tank rim if sitting on a flat surface. The tank cannot magically transfer all its weight to the corners only. So it you have wood stand running left to right along the long edge of the tank the weight will be just as much on those edges as on the ends. If you choose to only support the tank on the ends then yes all the weight is on the ends only since it has no choice. That does not mean the tank manufacturer designed their tank to be supported that way. The glass in the center where the post was will rely on the silicon and / or plastic frame to not bow if there is no center support. The tank manufacturer either designed it to handle those stresses or not. So no the ends do not support the bulk of the weight unless your stand was built that way or you removed the center supports. Most stands have supports of some fashion in the center when they are 4 feet in length or longer. Everyone though can decide on their own how best they want to proceed and safety should be top of mind.

 

[ironman187]

Sorry but your post defies the basic law of gravity and physics and no one has proven Sir Issac Newton wrong on that subject yet. The weight distribution on the bottom of the tank is distributed equally. Physics classes teach us that fact. If it has a plastic rim the weight is distributed fully around the whole tank rim if sitting on a flat surface. The tank cannot magically transfer all its weight to the corners only. So it you have wood stand running left to right along the long edge of the tank the weight will be just as much on those edges as on the ends. If you choose to only support the tank on the ends then yes all the weight is on the ends only since it has no choice. That does not mean the tank manufacturer designed their tank to be supported that way. The glass in the center where the post was will rely on the silicon and / or plastic frame to not bow if there is no center support. The tank manufacturer either designed it to handle those stresses or not. So no the ends do not support the bulk of the weight unless your stand was built that way or you removed the center supports. Most stands have supports of some fashion in the center when they are 4 feet in length or longer. Everyone though can decide on their own how best they want to proceed and safety should be top of mind.

There is so much wrong with your assumptions it's literally not worth the time to pick it apart. Bottom line, you are dead wrong, it's been proven by several people in this thread. A jackscrew wasn't needed and added extra complexity and cost to a simple project. But, you ask people who don't understand material properties and weight distribution, pretty soon you end up doig stupid overkill moves like ripping out your 2nd story living room floor so you can replace it with re-enforced concrete before you set up your 25 gallon AIO tank. I just can't wait till I finish building my stand, it's going to trigger so many people.

 

[Darth.Daddy12]

Wo reading other responses.. depends.. if your tank ain’t filled no issues.. if your tank is filled that is doable but different story.

Before starting I’m going to preference my knowledge in this by saying I’ve built the stand for all 7 tanks in my house from 55g to 210g. Furthermore I’m a carpenter by profession.

If you tank is empty just remove and fireplace after sump is in place.

If the tank is filled... you can still remove.. only the replacing will need more effort. However long the tank is you’ll need a straight edge that same legth to adjust for deflection (bow wo brace in middle of tank)

For example lay a 4’ level across a 4’ tank and then reattach center brace when no light can be seen in the middle between tank and level. Same works for 6’ 8’ tanks etc..

There is nothing wrong with this when you understand all aspects of loading calculations. That said the simple fact you are asking about this if the tank above has water already.. I would strongly advise against this unless you are handy and understand how this works. If that was the case then this question likely wouldn’t be posted.

If the tank is empty then there is no harm just remove and reinstall in same place.

Above all that make sure to use foam or rubber mat under the tank and sump as it will help tons should something be unlevel. It will help better distribute the load and prevent tearing the tank seams apart from an unlevel or bowed tank stand.

 

[Darth.Daddy12]

For non handy people.. my best advice if the tank is filled already in this scenario.. cut a 2x4 to 1/8” over the brace size.. hammer this into place to support everything while making changes.

If you can’t insersrand this concept you don’t want to take o. This task..

 

[Darth.Daddy12]

Bottom line yes you can you just have to make sure screws like back up in same holes. If they don’t you’ll have to modify some things till the do and you get s level cross section.

 

[Slingshot357]

Here is a pic complete with paper towel as a simple leak detector. The only error I made was I forgot to account for the water in the sump, so I didn't have enough RODI. It's busy making more. It won't be difficult to put the board back and fill it in to cover the seam. Oh, that chewed up area of the wood isn't where the board was, I accidentally hit there with the saw frame. I used a hack saw. I have no tools. LOL