Can my floor hold my aquarium?
- Thread starter BillyP
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JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
Are these reinforcements not good enough?
Okay so let's start off with where Exactly is the tank going?. Is there any way to show on your photos? Also these studs highlighted in red, do they run all the way to the concrete floor? And do the line up exactly with the floor joists above?
Okay so let's start off with where Exactly is the tank going?. Is there any way to show on your photos? Also these studs highlighted in red, do they run all the way to the concrete floor? And do the line up exactly with the floor joists above?
Yes they're studs, they are laid on another long 2x4 and that long 2x4 is above studs that hit the ground. Yeah they line up exactly with the floor joists. The tank is starting at the third stud in this picture
mitch91175
2500 Club Member
Then in that case I'd personally say that you are find. The weight will be distributed and since you have a concrete slab, I wouldn't expect any issues, but that's just me.
If you are concerned, then I'd say just secure it even more, but when securing the floor, you will want to do so inline with a wall downstairs (which you mentioned that is where the supporting blocks are already).
In the picture above, it looks like you have 3 - 2x12 inline with each other. I'd imagine that would hold a LOT of weight if that is the case.
Flippers4pups
Fins up since 1993
If the studs bellow the joists go to the floor, that would be enough vertical support. If you have to run perpendicular to the joists, I would cross brace the joists under where the tank is going to sit. Why? The floor joists may twist over time with the weight of the tank.
Kengar
Well-Known Member
Rather take opinion from the board, I would spend the money to have an architectural engineer come out and take a look. In re setting up my filter room on basement level I wanted to take out a series of 2 x 4 studs that I realized formed a load bearing wall for load path all the way up to ceiling of highest floor (to make room for sump). Before doing so I spent 600 to have someone come out and assess situation. Ultimately I removed 6 feet section of 2 x 4s and replaced with a monster **** header I put together spanning across beefed up posts, to support the joists above. It was well worth the cost to know that what I was doing was structurally sound, especially since it lets WIFE sleep at night not worrying re roof collapsing as result of support at the basement level missing
wmhaupfear
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I am doing almost this exact same thing. I'm a mechanical engineer so I dusted off the old engineering paper and some equations and did all the analysis myself. My 125g tank would be running parallel to the floor joists over the basement and spanning 6ft sitting on only 2 joists of 2x8 at 12ft. I need to add 4 sistered joists to my existing joists to support the weight and have less deflection (sag) than glass can handle. I was a bit conservative and designed for 2500lbs, but I wanted to make certain nothing would go qwrong as this will be sitting right at the center support wall for the whole house. I ran all of this by a friend who's a structural engineer and he agreed with the plan. In your case, I would personally get an engineer in to take a look and make sure before you park a small car on your floor.
Mike Reef Addict
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Listen to the architect [emoji106] View attachment high_density_filing_load.pdf
@BillyP Just an observer here but my 2¢: Listen to the last three posters and get a professional opinion followed up with a professional remedy if required. If the "you'll be fine" camp is wrong and a serious issue results you'll have a heck of a time getting your insurance company to pay for the fix.
Pay the pro for his/her expertise, get it in writing with a guarantee. If local code requires, get the alteration permitted and check with your insurance agent re; coverage. 125 gal water can do quite a bit of damage. Good Luck
Pay the pro for his/her expertise, get it in writing with a guarantee. If local code requires, get the alteration permitted and check with your insurance agent re; coverage. 125 gal water can do quite a bit of damage. Good Luck
valsterb
New Member
The setup would seem appropriate with the pictures you are showing. As long as the tank is very close to those studs, andj there is extra blocking or straping to keep thoses joist from warping . Also, are there any holes in those floor joists? Anyhow, those are my 2 cents, the path of getting pro advice is the right one. I am basing my advice on years of strucural framing and with 6 tank build under my belt, a lot of research. Good luck!
Gene Ashton
Community Member
What was the verdict? I am in the same boat putting in a Red Sea Reefer 450 approximately 120 gallons total. I am assuming the tank and stand empty with no equipment is 500 pounds so with water at 8 pounds a gallon and the stand and rock I'm guessing 1700 pounds. The tank will be perpendicular with the joists and the house is about 20 years old and has newer style silent floor joist system 24" OC. The tank will be setting over two joists and I am thinking about sistering some 2x6's by 8 feet directly under the joists of the tank and then putting two basement lolly columns under that for more support and to take any bounce out of the floor. The area under the tank is the mechanical room of the house with the water heater furnace etc. and I have a full 92" ceiling height.
I personally didn't have to do anything and there was no sag when I filled it up, even when I checked 2 weeks later. We have identical weight so if I were you I would sister the joists. Apart from that since its perpendicular you should be fine if you sister both of them. If you can add supports just to be safe that would also be good.
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