can we override the conductivity probe reading from Neptune system

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Wiskey

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Is your reading steady? My probe always reads 3 points high, although it’s consistently 3 points off. It’s annoying but I just adjusted all my alarms.
I wish it had some kind of offset.
Me too! No matter how much I calibrate it it always reads 36.5 - 37, and this is on both tanks. I have a Digital refractometer, that's calibrated, and I cross checked that with two different regular calibrated refractometers, but still the Apex is just a hair off. I'd really like that to read 35.

Whiskey
 
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mckinney0171

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Hi All

its clear that when you start having a problem with your conductivity probe from Neptune there is no coming back and it will always be faulty i have been trying to celebrate it for the last one month and no luck with is basically i left it to dry over night and then try calibrate it again and again and its hopeless to do so so my salinity stuck on 46 all the times
my question is :
1- he can we make sure that the probe is defective and need replacement.
2- can we override the reading of the probe and add the numbers manually just to set the salinity on 35ppt.
Screenshot_20220722_105152_com.neptunesystems.apexfusion.jpg
How are these probes still a problem? I stopped using apex four years ago and we had the same issues then. Amazing how Neptune releases flashy new controllers but their probes are still trash.
 

Jon's Reef

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Mine works great. I had issues to start.

Don’t use calibration packets. I think something is off in a real tank vs the packets. Also the “flow state” around the probe dramatically changes the reading.

You must have flow over the probe. Ideally straight up into it or straight down out of it (like the SPS kit). If you don’t have flow it will never work reliably. If you don’t want the kit and don’t have a sump with that kind of flow, just get a micro pump and point it towards the bottom of the probe.

Test your water… get it right where you want it. Use The method you trust. I use a Hanna tester. But if you like a refractometer.. or Milwaukee.. or floaty thing… use that. Get the tank to 35.

Once the tank is set to 35, start the calibration. I dip it in rodi, then gently blow on it a little, flick it, use a towel. Get it dry. Then do the dry part. For the 35 ppt part (or whatever the electrical value) just put it into the sump exactly where it will be. Let it sit for a minute, then start the wet part of the calibration.

If there are any odd issues, clean the probe. Citric acid dissolved in water. Let it sit for 30 min - 1 hour. Then swish it to get any gunk out. Rinse it in rodi a few times then do the calibration per above.

Very reliable with the above. Flow is key. Calibrating in tank is key.

The sensor has helped me many times. Had my awc source tube come out of the saltwater bin once… salinity dropped… bam saw it in apex. Had my skimmer over skim… salinity falls… saw it in apex. Filled my saltwater bin with rodi but forgot to add salt… saw it in apex.
 
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Is your reading steady? My probe always reads 3 points high, although it’s consistently 3 points off. It’s annoying but I just adjusted all my alarms.
I wish it had some kind of offset.
it ia steady but its reading 46ppt which drive me crazy and cant set up the apex alarm since the highest ppt in the apex is 45ppt
 
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Khalilkaram

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Me too! No matter how much I calibrate it it always reads 36.5 - 37, and this is on both tanks. I have a Digital refractometer, that's calibrated, and I cross checked that with two different regular calibrated refractometers, but still the Apex is just a hair off. I'd really like that to read 35.

Whiskey
yes this is the main point of having it is to read the right number and i checked to replace it and the cost $200
 
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Khalilkaram

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How are these probes still a problem? I stopped using apex four years ago and we had the same issues then. Amazing how Neptune releases flashy new controllers but their probes are still trash.
it is really rubbish i used for a year or 16 month and its faulty now
 
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Khalilkaram

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Mine works great. I had issues to start.

Don’t use calibration packets. I think something is off in a real tank vs the packets. Also the “flow state” around the probe dramatically changes the reading.

You must have flow over the probe. Ideally straight up into it or straight down out of it (like the SPS kit). If you don’t have flow it will never work reliably. If you don’t want the kit and don’t have a sump with that kind of flow, just get a micro pump and point it towards the bottom of the probe.

Test your water… get it right where you want it. Use The method you trust. I use a Hanna tester. But if you like a refractometer.. or Milwaukee.. or floaty thing… use that. Get the tank to 35.

Once the tank is set to 35, start the calibration. I dip it in rodi, then gently blow on it a little, flick it, use a towel. Get it dry. Then do the dry part. For the 35 ppt part (or whatever the electrical value) just put it into the sump exactly where it will be. Let it sit for a minute, then start the wet part of the calibration.

If there are any odd issues, clean the probe. Citric acid dissolved in water. Let it sit for 30 min - 1 hour. Then swish it to get any gunk out. Rinse it in rodi a few times then do the calibration per above.

Very reliable with the above. Flow is key. Calibrating in tank is key.

The sensor has helped me many times. Had my awc source tube come out of the saltwater bin once… salinity dropped… bam saw it in apex. Had my skimmer over skim… salinity falls… saw it in apex. Filled my saltwater bin with rodi but forgot to add salt… saw it in apex.
i have the probe almost IN front of the power head and get tons of flow since i have it in the DT not in the sump and i did try it but i used vinegar not citric acid for 15 minutes then i rinse it in rodi water for 1 hour and after it i dry it for all night and then try to calibrate it also didnt work
 
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