Can we see your SPS growth pics?

X-37B

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With three words: High Energy Reef
  • Strong illumination with balanced spectrum (PAR is in excess of 400 mmol/m2/sec and provided by T5 lighting)
  • Very strong random low velocity water flow (water turnover of at least 100 times per hour in display tank)
  • High nutrient throughput (High fish population, which is well fed; nutrients are exported to maintain a balanced ratio between NO3 and PO4; presence of PO4 is crucial for good growth- typically between 0.046-0.096 mg/)
  • Elevated water temperature (27-28C)
I agree and run similar. Wondering your thoughts on running 27 to 28°C. What impact do you feel it has on growth vs what most recommend 25-26°C.
 

trout

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I agree and run similar. Wondering your thoughts on running 27 to 28°C. What impact do you feel it has on growth vs what most recommend 25-26°C.

Both Dr Ron Shimek and Eric Borneman advocated running reef tanks at relatively high reef temperatures (27-29C). To quote Borneman (ref: Aquarium Corals, pp 348): "Although it has been recommended in the past that aquarium temperatures should be maintained between 24-27C (75-80F), the natural temperature of many Indo-Pacific reefs, especially in the shallow areas where most corals are collected, is higher than 27C (80F). Recent trends favour maintaining somewhat more natural reef temperatures of 27-29C (80-84F). The reasoning behind this increase is that the entire metabolism of the tank is raised , including those of the microbial community, detritus processing organisms, and herbivores. Furthermore, it is a more natural temperature for many reef animals. The increased rates of calcification at these temperatures should, therefore, not be offset by increasing algae growth, unless the system is mismanaged".

The underlined section above has motivated me to try relatively high reef temperature in my own reef tank.

Note that there are opposing views as well which should be noted (https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/8/aaeditorial).
 

X-37B

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Both Dr Ron Shimek and Eric Borneman advocated running reef tanks at relatively high reef temperatures (27-29C). To quote Borneman (ref: Aquarium Corals, pp 348): "Although it has been recommended in the past that aquarium temperatures should be maintained between 24-27C (75-80F), the natural temperature of many Indo-Pacific reefs, especially in the shallow areas where most corals are collected, is higher than 27C (80F). Recent trends favour maintaining somewhat more natural reef temperatures of 27-29C (80-84F). The reasoning behind this increase is that the entire metabolism of the tank is raised , including those of the microbial community, detritus processing organisms, and herbivores. Furthermore, it is a more natural temperature for many reef animals. The increased rates of calcification at these temperatures should, therefore, not be offset by increasing algae growth, unless the system is mismanaged".

The underlined section above has motivated me to try relatively high reef temperature in my own reef tank.

Note that there are opposing views as well which should be noted (https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/8/aaeditorial).
Interesting. Thanks.
My 120 has only been running for 8 months.
Started June last year and ran no heater for 5 months with house at 78° F. Just looked at notes and tank ran 79-81°F. Added heater for winter months and it runs 77-79°F. I may bring up the winter numbers to match summer.
Growth has been very good over last 8 months.
Start pic and today pic.
20190629_135906.jpg
20200225_193928.jpg
 

Graffiti Spot

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I wonder if temp is a big factor on why a lot of people struggle with the reefcrest corals with the thick branches now. I have always ran my tanks at 76-78 but recently had a few days up to 80-81 and a indo piece I have had barely growing for ) years has sprouted new growth tips. I will have to read some more on this topic.
 

Sebae

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Both Dr Ron Shimek and Eric Borneman advocated running reef tanks at relatively high reef temperatures (27-29C). To quote Borneman (ref: Aquarium Corals, pp 348): "Although it has been recommended in the past that aquarium temperatures should be maintained between 24-27C (75-80F), the natural temperature of many Indo-Pacific reefs, especially in the shallow areas where most corals are collected, is higher than 27C (80F). Recent trends favour maintaining somewhat more natural reef temperatures of 27-29C (80-84F). The reasoning behind this increase is that the entire metabolism of the tank is raised , including those of the microbial community, detritus processing organisms, and herbivores. Furthermore, it is a more natural temperature for many reef animals. The increased rates of calcification at these temperatures should, therefore, not be offset by increasing algae growth, unless the system is mismanaged".

The underlined section above has motivated me to try relatively high reef temperature in my own reef tank.

Note that there are opposing views as well which should be noted (https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/8/aaeditorial).

Do you have a build thread anywhere or would you mind posting your other parameters such as NO3 and alkalinity? What do you consider a balanced ratio? 16:1?

Beautiful system.
 

trout

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Do you have a build thread anywhere or would you mind posting your other parameters such as NO3 and alkalinity? What do you consider a balanced ratio? 16:1?

Beautiful system.

Thank you.

Yes, I have a tank thread on a UK forum called UltimateReef. I use the same use name on that forum. The thread has been running since 2012. So, it is rather long. However, I have two articles that summarise my approach. One is a TOTM article (October 2016) on UltimateReef and the other was published in Reef Hobbyist magazine in October 2016. I have not added any links in case I contravene any rules of this forum but will be happy to furnish them privately.

My current water test results are as follows:

NO3 = ~0.1 ppm (Salifert)
PO4 = 0.0246 mg/L (Elos)

KH = 6.6 dKH (Salifert)
Ca = 405 ppm (Salifert)
Mg = 1395 ppm (Salifert)
K = 420 ppm (Salifert)

I am currently struggling with low nitrates. I lost a lot of fish last year due to marine velvet and am in the process of repopulating my tank. I had more than 13 fish and have currently 5. My new fish go through a strict quarantine process based on Chloroquine phosphate. As the number of fish increases, I expect NO3 to rise. Before the velvet crisis, NO3 was between 2-5 ppm and PO4 was between 0.046-0.092 mg/L.

As for your last question, a ratio of 100:1 or around this figure tend to produce optimum coral colouration and very good growth. That said, I do not chase particular numbers. I just let my corals tune my approach.
 

xiaoxiy

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I love all of these colony growth shots. I can't wait until mine get that big but I still have a long ways to go.

Here's my growth rate for a single millepora frag, which I've been photo documenting/tracking.

IMG_3130.jpg
 
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DraggingTail

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2 - 5 ppm no3
20 - 40 ppb po4

I have a moderate/moderate high bioload and feed pretty heav. I run a sulfur denitrator and dose lacl to keep it within those ranges
That's odd. My nitrates are 5-8 and po4 15-20 ppb.

I feed heavily as well. Only 80 gal system and I feed 3 T pureed oyster, clam, shrimp, selcon, spectrum, red algae, Green algae AND 1 t reef roids everyday.

Skimmer and fuge with basketball sized chaeto

Maybe need to dose po4.
 

ReefGirl87

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Digi

March 23 2019 - this frag broke in 1/2 when I got it. Glued both pieces down

IMG_20190323_161157~2.jpg


February 23rd 2020 on the left is the exact same piece. The one on the middle snapped off the original piece on the right during cleaning the rock. I just left it lay where it landed. Has since attached and grown.
IMG_20200223_180254.jpg
What size is your tank?
 
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DraggingTail

DraggingTail

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What size is your tank?
55 gallon tall
30 gallon sump
Hamilton Cebu Sun 400w MH/T5
Arctica 1/5 chiller
Octo 110s skimmer
Tunze ATO
Jabo 4 dosing pump
Mp40s
Sicce silent 3 return
Fuge with algae led light
 
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