can you guys give me ideas on how to fix my tank?

outhouse

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reef.jpg
 

FishyFishFish

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Your original post said 'fine for fish only'. I'm not saying that the Evo light will support a high-end SPS system, but they will support some corals (incl some LPS). I know that's factually true because I am factually doing it. I have Ricordeas, Duncans, GSP, Red War Coral, Candy Canes, Toadstool, Acans, Favia, Blastos, Zoas and RFAs all living under that light.

Would a more powerful light be better in the long run? Probably, but I don't think that is entirely relevant to the OP at this time.

In the future he/she might want/need a better light and better/more powerheads, but that's not the immediate issue. I think their money/time would be spent on other things first.
 

outhouse

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. I know that's factually true because I am factually doing it.
Context is important as I was defending myself, my main point was they are weak lights. End of story, Its not causing OP's issues, and I offered separate advise for the algae issues, and did not advise him or her to switch their lights. Can you grow LPS under weak lights? sure, can you grow them faster under better lighting? absolutely. They are not lights we would advise anyone to buy. But it did get our friend the OP into the hobby. And hopefully we can get the tank sorted out
 
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aidancoby13

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My first step for recommendation to "fix" your tank would be to scrub your rocks during next water change. Just pull the rock out and scrub it in the bucket you siphoned tank water into. Then put the rock back in the tank with new water.

Like, everyone else suggested, having a your own test kits is really really helpful. Just out of curiosity, you when you do buy some, test the saltwater you get from the store.

You should also either point the power head or return nozzle to the surface. This will keep the surface of the water 'clean' and will increase oxygen in the water, and possibly boosting your Ph.

You might also want to reduce the amount of feedings with pellets. Buy some frozen food like Hikari mysis or spirulina brine shrimp and use that as your main food source. I'd bet that your phosphates are a bit high, and pellets would almost certainly be the main contributor to that.

Good luck, you got this!
okay thank you
 
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aidancoby13

aidancoby13

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You don't need additional powerheads in a Fluval Evo. You already have one more than me!



Fine for coral too. In any case that isn't the reason for the algae.


I still think you need test kits. My water is 'fine' but it isn't always the same 'fine'. Trends will tell you what is going on. i.e. do you need more or less water changes? Are your phosphates a little high or ok?

If your water is definitely ok then I would get more Clean-up-Crew to help eat the algae. Then you need to look into whether the red stuff in the sand is Cyano or Dinos.


I hate to say it but in that condition it may benefit from a 'rip clean'. You can search this site for info on how to do that.
What clean-up-crew would you recommend for cleaning rocks?
 

FishyFishFish

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I am not an expert on that but the Reefcleaners website has some good info. I'm not sure if he ships to Canada but there's nothing to stop you having a look and, combined with your LFS expertise, can then come up with something suitable.

The slight problem is that you would need quite a lot to tackle that algae, and if you bought enough to do that then they could run out of food once they start getting on top of it. It might be worth cleaning off what you can manually, and then adding something to keep it under control.

That likely won't sort out the Cyano/Dinos (or whatever the red stuff is), or remove the Aptasia, which is why I mentioned the possibility of going through a rip clean.
 

outhouse

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What clean-up-crew would you recommend for cleaning rocks?
there is no crew that will clean those rocks. There is only one way, lower nitrates and phosphates, even then you may not get rid of it. I have a tank that was almost impossible to get rid of algae. In 30 years ive beaten every algae that exist. As I stated earlier, your first step is 2 light doses of chemi clean, followed by a 50% water change exactly 2 weeks after dosage. At that time you should use fluconazole as the package directs you. Followed by some large water changes. At that point Vibrant will keep your tank clean and water clearer. As long as you have your current level of nutrients in your water you will have algae period. You have to lower them. Many methods exist water changes being the most common used. In your shoes, its your best bet. to recap. chemi clean gets rid of the red, fluconazole gets rid of the green and brown, and Vibrant maintains the status quo
 

Just John

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FishyFishFish said:
You don't need additional powerheads in a Fluval Evo. You already have one more than me!



Fine for coral too. In any case that isn't the reason for the algae.


I still think you need test kits. My water is 'fine' but it isn't always the same 'fine'. Trends will tell you what is going on. i.e. do you need more or less water changes? Are your phosphates a little high or ok?

If your water is definitely ok then I would get more Clean-up-Crew to help eat the algae. Then you need to look into whether the red stuff in the sand is Cyano or Dinos.


I hate to say it but in that condition it may benefit from a 'rip clean'. You can search this site for info on how to do that.
Click to expand...
What FishyFishFish said. This is exactly what I think and I don't have any powerheads either. I definitely think a rip clean is in order. I shall summon the Rip Clean God - @brandon429 your presence is needed.
 
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Paul B

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I just had that same brown turf in mine and fluconazole and Vibrant have cleared it up completely, and my 210g tank has not looked this good for years.
LOL, I am sure it did clear it up. I didn't say it wouldn't work, I just suggested he didn't do it. :)
 

FLReefer101

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Get more crabs and some snails. If your light is three years old and the basic light that comes with the setup you should start preparing to up grade for sure. Definitely dose some vibrant like “Outhouse” stated. I would also see what your phosphates are for sure. I don’t see any coral in your tank other than GSP. Turn your lights off for a week and see if that has an impact on it.
 

brandon429

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JustJohn I had seen this post two days ago and considered rip clean but held back because if the directions aren’t followed it’ll kill the reef.


but if the directions are studied, then studied again, then once more, then applied correctly, you’ll see that above as the outcome here and no method will beat that for a fix. There is no method on the planet that will fix a nano reef better than that above.

we had two posters lately read that thread then do a terrible job rinsing and that’s so not part of the work flow above. I’m not sure how they read that thread and then rinsed the sand poorly, but they did, so don’t do that if we are considering rip cleaning here. We’d do exactly what is shown for the win.


the nano reef in this thread can be fixed by lunchtime, but only if the directions are studied six times and ran correctly. If someone reads that thread and decides to not rinse correctly, I don’t want the updates. But if someone wants to rinse gagnam style, maybe we add the fixed reef there among the five top rip cleans on the planet…choose wisely like the old knight said in Indiana Jones and the last crusade
 
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Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.1%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 43 34.7%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 39 31.5%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 31 25.0%
  • Other.

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