Can you tell me what type of seahorse this is?

M3rmaids

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Can you please tell me what type of seahorse this is? We saved it off Jacksonville Florida coast after the recent hurricane. My daughters and I go search for sharks teeth after large storms. We found him about 60 feet from the ocean IN THE SAND! I thought he was dead. Got a sand bucket filled it with some water and this seahorse that’s half the size of my pinky took the breath of life. So of course, I saved him. We’ve had him a little over a week. Doing absolutely great on frozen mysis and copepods. Is he a baby? Or is he a dwarf seahorse? How can I tell! I’ve looked at so many picture, but he is so small! Does anyone know what type of seahorse this little guy is? We’ve named him Sandy.
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vlangel

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I am pretty sure that it is not a dwarf seahorse. It is probably a juvenile erectus. If you plan to keep it read the stickie on 'how seahorses differ from other marine fish' in the seahorse/pipefish topics. Seahorses have some very definite needs compared to other marine fish especially when it comes to their immune systems. They are lovely charming creatures but they are a bit high maintenance.

You should name it Blessed because it is blessed that you found it, LOL.
 
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Thank you guys! We have a super low flow current going on. He’s the only one in a 32 gal biocube. He’s got a couple cleanup crews in there. But he seems to be doing great! I just have no idea what kind he is!!! This really helps!
 

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Thank you guys! We have a super low flow current going on. He’s the only one in a 32 gal biocube. He’s got a couple cleanup crews in there. But he seems to be doing great! I just have no idea what kind he is!!! This really helps!
Actually seahorses do best in tanks with 10Xs or more turnover. Low flow is what used to be thought was best but now a tank should have enough flow to keep particulate in suspension so that it can be caught in the filtration.

Crabs are not safe with seahorses just in case that is part of the cuc. Crabs can pinch and seahorses can die of infection. Make sure the little pony has lots of things to hitch to in different flows, high, medium and low flow.

That little seahorse is young enough that it probably isn't determinable if its male or female yet. All seahorses look female-ish at birth but after 4 months+ they turn (or not) and become what they are going to be.
 
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Actually seahorses do best in tanks with 10Xs or more turnover. Low flow is what used to be thought was best but now a tank should have enough flow to keep particulate in suspension so that it can be caught in the filtration.

Crabs are not safe with seahorses just in case that is part of the cuc. Crabs can pinch and seahorses can die of infection. Make sure the little pony has lots of things to hitch to in different flows, high, medium and low flow.

That little seahorse is young enough that it probably isn't determinable if its male or female yet. All seahorses look female-ish at birth but after 4 months+ they turn (or not) and become what they are going to be.


Wow! I’ve read so much about how low flow is so important!!! We have a 32 gal tank. Does that mean it should be turning over 360 gal an hour? For the x10 rule? Should I put spray bar in to distribute flow or do you think Sandy would be just fine? The local Aquarium of course told us to get some crabs to clean up the dead food. They are about the size of a dime. Should I get them out ASAP? They are the blue legged hermits. I put in a unit that does 160 gal a hour so I will switch back right away. He seemed fine with the high flow, but it does seem he is exploring more now with less of a current. Thank you so much!
 

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Wow! I’ve read so much about how low flow is so important!!! We have a 32 gal tank. Does that mean it should be turning over 360 gal an hour? For the x10 rule? Should I put spray bar in to distribute flow or do you think Sandy would be just fine? The local Aquarium of course told us to get some crabs to clean up the dead food. They are about the size of a dime. Should I get them out ASAP? They are the blue legged hermits. I put in a unit that does 160 gal a hour so I will switch back right away. He seemed fine with the high flow, but it does seem he is exploring more now with less of a current. Thank you so much!
He is tiny so perhaps 360 gph might be a lot for right now. The main reason for 10Xs + flow is to keep uneatten food/detritus from settling on the bottom near Live rock, coral or macro algae. That uneatten food/detritus can fuel pathogenic bacteria which all seahorses are very vulnerable to. If you syphon out all uneatten food/detritus after meals Sandy should be fine. Because Sandy is so little, try to feed her/him at least 4Xs a day. Seahorses have simple stomachs anyway and all seahorses do better with 3 small meals as opposed to 1 or 2 large meals.

You are going to want to do much bigger WCs for Sandy than you would normally do for a fish. In a 30 gallon with a pair of seahorses, I would do 25% a week at a minimum. Of course Sandy is not eating like an adult yet but plan to get in the habit to take care of her/him as if he were.

You probably should purchase some Furan 2 and Triple Sulfa in case Sandy gets a bacterial infection. The quicker you treat, the better the prognosis. Both of these antibiotics are readily available at lfs.

And yes, I would remove the crabs, at least until Sandy gets much bigger. Supposedly the small blue legged hermits are seahorse safe but I feel safer with nassarius and trocus snails, and peppermint shrimp with 2" seahorses.
 
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What do you recommend to do with the frozen mysis. It’s like a ice cube that floats! So I have no idea! I tried basting it down to him with a tube and it just floats right back up. That’s why I got the trigger pods/copepods and just let them loose, he’s been consistently eating them. Great I will get those right away. Also how can I tell if I must give that to him? What signs should I be looking for. Thank you again for all your help!
 

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What do you recommend to do with the frozen mysis. It’s like a ice cube that floats! So I have no idea! I tried basting it down to him with a tube and it just floats right back up. That’s why I got the trigger pods/copepods and just let them loose, he’s been consistently eating them. Great I will get those right away. Also how can I tell if I must give that to him? What signs should I be looking for. Thank you again for all your help!
The frozen mysis cube can be shaved with a knife into smaller pieces. Then put those pieces in a clean container with tank water until they thaw. The saltwater will help them sink, (tap water causes them to float). I use a turkey baster and release one or 2 pieces of mysis right in front of the seahorse's nose until they snick it. I give them a 20 second rest between squirting pieces of mysis.

If Sandy begins to eat frozen mysis consistently for you but suddenly stops eating it for more than a day and a half, that can be a sign of something is wrong.

If Sandy gets any white marks on her skin anywhere that can be the result of a wound that has become infected.

If her breathing seems labored that can be a sign of parasites or a gill infection. I would try a fresh water dip with RO water that is the same temperature and PH as the tank water for 8 minutes. Normally for a full grown seahorse its 10-12 minutes but since Sandy is just a little pony I'd shorten it. You should see lots of thrashing at first and little things coming off Sandy if she has parasites. If this does not seem to do anything then the cause of the labored breathing may be bacterial and I would HT her and treat.
 

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Oh yeah, I would wean Sandy onto all frozen mysis as soon as she eats it well enough to get all the food sbe needs from that. Being WC she may get where she does not want frozen food and wont eat it if you don't convert her. Frozen is a lot more convenient and economical than gut loading small ghost shrimp or enriching live artemia, which is what you will have to do if she quits eating frozen mysis.
 

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