Canopy and Stand Build for 42 Gallon Hex Tank

[n2585722]

Since I started with the ATO output next is the auto fill programming for the DI storage tank. I have a solenoid to turn on the RODI. As a backup the output in the DI storage tank has a float valve. I will start with the float switch assemblies used to do this. The tank is an old storage bin for gift rapping paper rolls. There are two holes drilled in the top of the tank. The tank also has a high top cover so there is about 6 inches from the top to the rim of the tank. Below is a photo of one of the float valve assemblies used with the storage tank. This is the one for the full switch. These are adjustable to an extent. The empty switch is longer but otherwise the same. The gray pipe is 1/4" PVC Schedule 80. It was tapped on one end to accommodate the threads on the float switch. The float switch has an o-ring to seal the end to keep water out of the switch. The white pipe is schedule 40 1/2" PVC. There is a PVC coupling with one end threaded and the other a slip joint. The black coupling is a probe holder I purchased from AVAST Marine. I think I got about a dozen of these.

Since I have shown screenshots from an iPad and computer. I thought I would do this one from a phone. Below is some photos of the homepage on a android phone. The rest of the screenshots in this post are also from the same phone. Everything is in a single row on the phone. you just have to scroll to spot you want to look.

I scrolled to DI fill output in the screenshot below. This is the output I have programmed to auto fill the DI storage tank in the garage. To show the programming data click the gear in the tile for that output and scroll down toward the bottom to get to the data.

I used the FloatSwitch function to do this. In this case I want it to turn on when the empty float is tripped and fill until the full float is tripped. The On Input is the Low DI Tank float switch. It is set for on when closed. The next setting is the Off Input. This input is Full DI Tank float switch. This one is set for off when open. On at night is set to off. At this point I don't want it coming on in the middle of the night. The way this is setup the output will turn on when the Low DI Tank float switch closes and will stay on until the Full DI Tank float switch opens. It will remain off until the Low DI Tank float switch closes again. Since I have a 10 gallon DI tank the RODI will normally produce the DI water in 10 gallon batches.

I have the DI fill output linked to two alarms. These alarms are triggered by two leak detectors. I used GRI 2600's for this. They are 12v normally closed alarms. I used the same 12v wall wart to power both alarms since they were in close proximity to each other. Most of the switch inputs in my system have 1 as open and 0 as closed. Some do have 100 as open and 0 as closed. The ones that use 100 are from the SW5 module. I chose .5 as a trip point since it is halfway between 0 and 1. It also works with the 0 and 100 switch inputs. So anything above .5 is an open switch. Anything below .5 is a closed switch. Since the leak detectors are normally closed when tripped they would be above .5. So in this case Trip When Low check box is left unchecked. Hysteresis for a switch input is always 0.0 since there are only two states. I have the email alert checked here so I will get an alert if it detects a leak at the RODI. This detector is close enough to the storage tanks and pumps to be triggered for a leak of any one of those items.

The next alarm is not exactly aquarium related other than it is a backup for the RODI alarm. They are both in close proximity to each other and given enough time either one can trip for the same event. This one is placed below my central AC unit. This will alert me in the event it starts leaking to the floor. In fact this one has triggered. Sure enough the drain tube where it connects to the drain pan plumbing had split and was leaking. Without the alarm who knows how long until it was discovered. It is next to our living room which has a floating wooden floor. The water would have ended up below the floor. If either of these alarms trip it will turn off the RODI and all the pumps in the garage.

The body of the email alert from the Archon for the AC leak are below. The name you give the alarm is in the body of the email. This makes it easy to know which alarm has triggered. The Custom body entered can be change to say anything you want. This would be handy if you had more than one Archon. It would be displayed in all alarms so I cannot see a need to add anything since I only have one Archon.

2017/06/13 11:41:04, id:18 - Leak AC.
Your alarm has triggered!
Custom body entered

 

[n2585722]

For the rest of the output programming I will post the screenshots of the settings only since I have gone over setting a couple up. If there are different settings then I will go over them. The next one is an important one since it is for the return pump. Also now may be a good time to go over the Leak detection for the stand. The photo below shows one completed float switch bracket and the pieces for the other. These brackets were made for this specific purpose. The second photo below is of a completed bracket with the float switch installed.

Below is a photo of the bracket assembly mounted in the stand. This is the front leak detect float switch. The way the bracket was made and the fact it is in a corner this keeps things from getting into the float. You can still get a finger in to trip the switch to check and see if it is working correctly. The two leak detection float switches are connected to two of the internal switch inputs on the Archon via the IOE module. Both the front and rear float switches will trigger if there is a leak. I just wanted to make sure there was more than one in case of a failure of one.

OK on to the programming of the return pump. For this output I used the ReturnPump function. That makes it an always on output. It does have a delay out of standby timer you can set. I don't use any standby's to control this output so a delay is not needed. The other selection is Channel Default. I set this to On. That way if the power bar looses communication with the Archon it will turn this output on. The module name tells me this is a PC4 power bar and it is in the left side cabinet the back power bar.

The output is set to go off for the two stand leak detectors. It will also go off for a sump low level but that is done differently using a MultiController triggered by a low sump alarm.

The two leak detector alarm settings are in the screenshots below

The low level alarm settings are in the screenshot below. Notice the MultiController Off check box is checked. I use the one multi controller with this alarm to turn it off for a specific time before turning it back on for a retry.

For the MultiController to work I have to setup an output using this function. I chose to use one of the virtual channels for this. A virtual channel works like a regular output with the exception there is no actual output to control. Below is the programming for that virtual channel. This can control up to 5 outputs. I have it controlling the skimmer and return pump. I set the Revert After to 15 minutes. If the low sump alarm is active it set the outputs to off. The revert after setting will keep the outputs this output controls off for at least 15 minutes. The skimmer also reacts to the sump overfull alarm to keep it form running if the sump level is too high. This will prevent it from turning back on until the return pump has had time to get the level near normal.

The next alarm is triggered by the state of the return output. If the return pump output is off for any reason this alarm is triggered. This alarm is used to turn off other outputs I don't want on if the return pump is off.

That cover the return pump.

 

[n2585722]

Next is the skimmer output programming. For this I used the Skimmer function. The difference between it and the ReturnPump function is the skimmer has a built in sure on timer. It has a delay timer of 15 minutes before it can be turned back on after it is turned off. Channel default is set to off.

The alarms set to control the channel are 42g Leak Stand Front, 42g Leak Stand Rear, 42g Skimmer Full and 42g Overfull Sump.

Since I already posted the leak detect alarms. I will just show the skimmer full and overfull alarms here. The skimmer full float is in the skimmate container. If it fills to the point of activating the full float it will turn off the skimmer until it is emptied. The sump has a float switch that will trigger if the water level in the sump is higher that what is OK for the skimmer. It this is active it will turn off the skimmer for at least 15 minutes.

That is it for the skimmer.

 

[n2585722]

Next are the heaters. I have 2 50 watt heaters each on their own output. They both use the heater function and both use the same input for the temp. On the first one I have a set point of 77 degrees and a hysteresis of .1. The on when is defaulted to below. On at night check box is also defaulted to checked. These cannot be changed in the heater function. Channel default can be changed but I left the channel default to off. This heater will turn on at 76.9 and go off at 77.1.

On the other heater output I have the set point set to 76.9 and the hysteresis set for .1. This heater will come on at 76.8 and go off at 77. This heater is a backup in case the first one fails or cannot keep the temp.

Both heaters use the same alarms. The alarms are the stand leak detectors, the low sump alarm, high temp alarm and the return off alarm. The heaters are in the sump so the low sump alarm and the return off alarm will kill the heater if the water flow is in question. The high temp alarm is just in case, but the heater should always be off before the high temp alarm is ever reached.

The high temp alarm uses a different temp input than the heaters. That way it would take 2 bad temp probes at the same time to cause an issue. The other alarms have already been covered. The settings have been covered for alarms also so a screenshot of the settings for the over temp alarm are below. The trip point is 81.7 with a hysteresis of .3.

Below is the graph for the first heater. There is little need for the heaters during the summer months. They do help on the winter months.

Below is the graph for other heater. As you can see it doesn't come on near as much as the first heater, The spikes in the warmer months were during times when the return pump was off long enough for the temp to cool down below the heater on temp. The only ones that are from cool weather are the ones in December, January and February. Those are our only cold months with an occasional exception.

That is it for the heater settings.

 

[n2585722]

For cooling I run fans across the sump. I use the relay output on the SW5 module to control the power to the fans. The Fan function is what I used. There is also a chiller function that is similar to the fan function for anyone using a chiller. The fans use the temp probe attached to the Archon as an input. The set point is 78 degrees with a hysteresis of .1. This turns on the fans at 78.1 and turns them off at 77.9. The On When is defaulted to above for this function. The Channel Default is off for this output.

The alarms that affect this channel are the two leak detect alarms, Low Temp alarm and the return off alarm. The return off alarm is used on most of the outputs that control things in the sump. If the return pump is off the these output should also be off.

The low temp alarm is the only alarm used that has not been covered before. This alarm also uses a different temp input than the fans.

Below is a graph for the fan output. The fans do most of the work of temperature control on my tank. There are only a couple of months with little fan action.

Below is a graph from the iTemp input on the Archon. I switched control to this input in August from another input. The graphs are sampled every 5 minutes. The fans do a good job of keeping the temp in control.

That is it for cooling control.

 

[n2585722]

Now a switch to lighting control. There are the 6 lighting control channels and two power supplies to control. Below is a screenshot of the white channel that is in the AVC module. For lighting control I used the ramp function. There are some new settings that I have not covered with this function. The first is the maximum setting. This setting is a percentage setting where 50 would be around 50% output and 100 would be full on or 100%. On this channel I have a Maximum setting of 55%. So at the end of the ramp time the output will be at 55%. That means with PWM the output is off for 45% of the cycle and on for 55% of the cycle. That does not mean the actual light output will track with this. It depends on the drivers and LED's in this case. I have the minimum set at 0% since I want the lights off at minimum. I have ramp time of 4 hours. So it will take the lights 4 hours to go from off to 55%. They will remain at 55% until the timer expires. Once the timer expires it will start to ramp down. This will take 4 hours if allowed to complete. So lighting on time is the on time of the timer plus the ramp time. In this case the timer on time is 7 hours so add 4 hours to that for a total of 11 hours of light output, but only 3 hours at the maximum setting.

In my case I want to use the channel as a PWM output so I click that button.

Also since I have 5 volt drivers I selected 0-5v PWM output.

The white light timer is shown below. The start time is 9AM. Tue on for is 7 hours. The off for is set to 6 hours so that it last more than the ramp time in this case the ramp time is 4 hours. I do have separate timers for each of the 6 channels just in case I want to set one or more of them on a different time schedule. At this time all the timers are setup at the same times.

There are 3 other channels with basically the same programming with the exception of the maximum setting and use different timers. Those are the red, green and blue channels. There are two channels that are controlled by the two PWM channels on the Archon itself. The royal blue and UV channels. One of them is in the screenshot below. It is almost the same with the exception there is no output type to select.

None of these six output channels use any alarms or standbys. The Alarms are attached to the power supply output channels. Below is the 24v output control channel. It uses the OnOff function which is basically set as either on or off and will remain in that state unless a alarm changes it or the controller is powered off. It will go back to the state it is set for once the controller is powered back up. This is set in the on mode. The 12 volt channel has the same settings.

The alarm setting for the 24 volt channel are in the screenshot below. The only alarms used are the two leak detect alarms. So the lights will work as long as there are no detected leaks. I guess the only reason I did this is that I can tell that something is wrong just by the fact the lights are not on when they are suppose to be on. Also it power down the 12 volt power to all the ventilation fans.

 

[n2585722]

I will take break from the controller. I took some photos of the tank this morning. There is not much there yet. I am going slow with this. The photo below is a shot from the front of the tank. The blue reef chromis I have had since December of 2015. It is one of the original 3 which were the first fish in the tank. I lost the other two at about the 1 year mark a couple of months apart. The firefish I have had since March.

In the photo below the zoanthids were purchased on a frag plug in October of last year. Now a large portion of the rock is covered with them.

The candy cane below was also purchased in October of last year. It was two heads originally, but it look like one of the heads is splitting into two. Since these appear to be living OK. I will probably add some more in the near future.

Below are photos of the Zoanthids and candy cane from October of last year as a comparison.

 

[n2585722]

Next is auto water change. This is done with two DP1's. Once all the plumbing was hooked to the pumps. I put the two tubes at the sump into a catch container. Both pumps were already primed. I started the fill pump until the catch vessel was at a certain fill point. I stopped it at that point. I then programmed them both to turn on for 5 minutes the first time. I then trimmed the voltage input on one of the pumps either higher or lower depending on whether the level raised above or below the original set point. I then increased the time to 30 minutes. and trimmed again until I was not getting any change in level after the 30 minute pump event. Below is the result of that trimming on the two water change pumps voltage settings. DP1 42GR3 is the drain pump and DP1 Gr4 is the fill pump. The higher the voltage the more flow you get. This is the input webpage by the way.

To change the setting click the gear. Then click the calibration start button. If you are just changing the name or names you can change them and click save instead of starting a calibration.

This will bring up the calibration data as shown below. The other inputs are calibrated in a similar way with either a single data point like this one or two data points like pH.

Click the copy button to transfer raw data to the data entry field. Enter the voltage you want to change the drive to in the target entry field. Then click finish.

The programming for the drain and fill pumps are the same. Both use the multitimer function with the same timers. The multi timer can use up to three timers. Each timer can be used to turn on the pumps multiple times if needed. You could use one timer and set it for as many times as you want it to turn the pump on. The reason I used all three timers is if for some reason you loose power to the Archon and you use a single timer it won't trigger the timer again until the start time. Using three timers splits the 24 hour period into three section. In the event of a power failure only one of the sections will not trigger instead of the possibly loosing a whole days worth. This is not a big deal with water change but may be a big deal if you are dosing.

The alarms that affect the fill pump are in the screenshot below. The Low FSW Tank alarm is the storage tank for fresh salt water. If it is low then it shot off both water change pumps. The other alarm that has not been discussed earlier is the High Salinity alarm. If the salinity is reading high it will shutdown the fill pump. In this case it will be filled over time with the ATO pump and in turn decrease the salinity some if the drain pump continues.

The alarms that affect the drain pump are in the screenshot below. The only one not discussed yet is the Low salinity alarm. If this is active the drain pump will not run. This will raise the salinity over time if the fill pump continues to run.

There is some risk to allowing the salinity reading to shutdown either of the water change pumps without shutting down both. The alarms are set to send emails if this occurs and with the little amount of water that is dispensed or removed at any one time is low it would take a few day before this becomes an issue. Below are the screenshot of the two salinity alarms and the one for the low fresh salt water storage tank. The salinity alarms use the salinity probe as an input and the low FSW alarm uses a float switch in the fresh salt water storage tank to detect a low water level.

That covers my auto water change system. At this point I use 5 gallon buckets like the ones salt comes in for the fresh salt water storage. I just swap them out when they go low. With the timers set for 15 minutes 3 time a day a 5 gallon bucket last a little over a week. I usually have a coupe of bucket made and ready to go at any time. I do plan on changing to brute cans eventually. I plan on using two 30 gallon cans one for mixing and one for storage. I also have a 110 gallon tank I want to setup and the 5 gallon buckets won't cut it when it is up and running.

 

[n2585722]

Sorry, I forgot to post the timers for the auto water change outputs. The three timers are in the screenshots below. All three timers are set to on for 15 minutes. Timer 1 starts at 7:00AM, timer 2 starts at 1:00PM and timer 3 starts at 7:00PM.

 

[n2585722]

Now on to the rest of the outputs. The first is Swabbie for the skimmer. It uses the multitimer function. Only one timer is used with this. On at night is checked.

The only alarm used with this output is the skimmer off alarm. If the skimmer is off then I don't want the swabbie to run.

The single timer used has a start time of 0:0:0 but that is ignored with this type of timer. It is on for 4 minutes and off for 2 hrs and 54 minutes. The continue forever is checked on this timer. This means it will start when the controller is powered and run every 2 hrs and 58 minutes. It will continue this for as long as the controller is powered and the skimmer is running.

Now for the bio pellet reactor pump. This is the circulation pump for the reactor. I used the Skimmer function with this. This gives a 15 minute delay before starting the pump back up. This should give the reactor time to fill back up before starting the circulation pump. The feed for the reactor is a tap from the return pump.

The alarms for this output are the two leak detect alarms and the return off alarm. Any of these will turn off the pump.

More to come.

 

[n2585722]

When I was leak testing the stand before filling the tank I took a video with a phone. I apologize for the shaky video? I was holding the phone and a water tube at the same time. The carpet squares were removed from the floor around the tank so I could install the tank and stand. The stand sits on the concrete slab and not on the carpet. The video is about 9 minutes long. Hopefully you won't get too bored watching it.

 

[n2585722]

Back to the controller. For night lights I use the MLC modules with some lunar pods. The MLC has 6 pod outputs with three channels. Two pod outputs per channel. The lunar function is used with the MLC. It follows the lunar cycle. The maximum is the setting that will be reached during full moon. The White ramp is the time in minutes it will take to get from no light to the max light for that particular night. I use all three channels I have one pod of white and one pod of blue. I have two pods of red. If I want more light in the tank at night I can turn the red channel to on and get 100% red until I return it to auto. The white and blue channels are set to 100%. the red channel is set to a maximum of 20%. The screen shots below are the settings for the three MLC channels. I used no alarm or standby settings with these outputs. I also renamed the outputs to Lunar White, Lunar Blue and Lunar Red. I also named the module MLC 42C. The C tells me the module is in the canopy. If it had a F it would be in the front of the stand. The PC4's in the back cabinet end with a R or L followed by a F or B. So PC4 42RB would be in the Right side back position.

The lunar function uses the night mode settings to trigger the Outputs. The night mode settings are set from the system page in the lower left corner. Below is a screenshot of the system page. I have nightmode start set for 8:00 PM and Night mode end set for 10:00 AM. Once you have the settings entered you click the save button below the settings. The other functions that have the on at night checkbox and it is not checked the output will go off during this time period.

 

[DHill6]

That's a lot of wood pieces, did you use a biscuit joiner?

 

[n2585722]

I used pocket holes and plugs instead. I have a pocket hole jig so it is easy to drill the holes with a hand drill.

 

[n2585722]

A recent video of the tank.

 

[n2585722]

The refugium light is on opposite the main lights with a overlap. I have a light by BML ( Build My LED) that has a 0-10v control. So I used the ramp function on one of the Archon 0-10 volt outputs to control the output level. To do this I set the maximum and minimum at the same output level. At this time I have it set for 70%. I also have no timer set and no ramp. This way the output will output at 70% all the time.

I use a PC4 output to turn on and off the refugium light. I use the multitimer function with one timer. On at night is checked.

The only alarms are the front and rear leak detect alarms. These will turn off the light.

The timer is set for all days of the week. The start time is 6:30 PM. It is on for 20 hrs.

The difference on this is I am using the ramp channel only to set the light intensity and use a regular power outlet to turn it on and off. Unfortunately BML is no longer making LED's for aquariums. This is one of their units specifically for refugiums.

 

[n2585722]

Now on to inputs. To get to the inputs select the inputs button on the menu bar. Below is the inputs webpage. The port tile has the name of the port in the upper left. The current value is in the lower left

Clicking the gear in the upper right brings up the fields to change the name of the module and the name of the port. If all you are doing is changing one or both names you can click the save button after entering the new name or names. If you want to calibrate the port then click the start button to the right of calibrate.

Clicking the calibrate start button brings up the calibration fields. The number of fields depends on the type of calibration. In the screenshot below it is temp which is a single point calibration. You can do a dual point calibration for a temp port but that requires using the port calibrate command. You will still need the raw data values to do this. So you will still need to use this screen to get those values. For single point temp calibration you will need a reference thermometer to get the actual temp of the water. Once the probe has had time to acclimate to the water temp along with the thermometer then click copy button to the right of target data. This will copy the raw data to the data input field. Now type in the temp reading from the thermometer to the target field. Once both fields have been entered click the finish button.

Below is a screen shot of one of the pH/ORP ports of the Archon. Since I am using this as a pH input the checkbox for set port to ORP mode is not checked.

Below is a screen shot with the calibration fields shown after clicking the start button. Notice this has two calibration points. To do this put the probe in the first calibration solution after cleaning the probe in DI water. Give the probe a few minutes to settle then click the copy button to the right of the correct point for that solution. The target field can be changed if needed. Some solutions may not be exactly 10 or 7 or you may be using 7 and 4 instead. Repeat this for the second calibration point. When both have been entered then click the finish button. I would suggest that you leave the probe in the tank where you plan to mount it for a few days before calibrating the port. I would do this with any controller and pH probe.

The screen shot below is of the second pH/ORP port. I have a ORP probe connected to this one so set port to ORP mode is checked. There are also switches on the Archon next to the ports to switch also for either pH or ORP. To get the raw data click start. The ORP ports on the Archon itself have no calibration with this method but can be calibrated using the port calibrate function. This is 2 point and requires getting the raw data for both points to calibrate. The other modules with ORP ports will have single point calibration with this method.

I will go over the port calibrate command when going over the system webpage. That covers the input page. Different input calibrate a little differently but are close to the ones shown.

 

[n2585722]

Now to the alarm webpage. below is a screenshot of the alarm web page. On the left is a alarm log of all the alarms that have triggered since the log was cleared or power was restored. There are two alarms for high salinity. This was triggered when I added some DI water mixed with baking soda. On the right is a listing of all the alarms on the system and their state.

Below I triggered one of the alarms by starting one of the four standby's. In this case it is standby 2 and it has 1782 seconds left. The standby turns off the skimmer which will trigger the skimmer off alarm. This does not send a email but does log it on the alarm log. In the alarm list you can see that the alarm is active by the red true. It is a green false when the alarm is not active.

In the screenshot below I have selected standby from the menu to show the four standby selections on the system. These can be named and times set from the system page. One of mine is a 4 hour standby for when I dose BioDigest to the system. It keeps the skimmer off for 4 hours. The empty skimmer turns it off for around 15 minutes. Feed time has a time but no outputs use it. Standby 4 i have not setup for anything. The only ones I use are the empty skimmer and the BioDigest dosing standby's.

That is it for the alarm webpage.

 

[n2585722]

The system webpage has a lot of information. It is were you add, edit and remove timers and alarms from the system. It is also where you edit the four standby's the system has. On the middle left below the timers alarms and standby's is the date and time settings. There is a date field where you can enter the current date. Below that is a time field where you can enter the current time. Below these fields is a check box labeled Use Automatic Time Synchronization. If you check this it will automatically synchronize the system time via the net once a day.

To edit a standby timer choose the one you wish to edit from the drop down box like in the screenshot below and then click the show data button to the right of the drop down box.

The data is shown in the field in the right column. The first one is the length of the standby in HH:MM:SS where HH is hours, MM is minutes and SS is seconds. In the screenshot below it is set for 15 minutes. The next field is the name for the standby. I this case it is Feed Time. Below the two input fields is a update button. After entering the time and the name if you are changing one or both of them click the update button to save the changes.

Below the time settings is the Temp units selection. Click the drop down list and select either Fahrenheit or Celsius. Below that is the fields for setting the beginning and end of night mode. Change the times and click the save button below the inputs to save the changes.

At the bottom of the right column is a drop down list of power options. You can select either shutdown, restore, factory reset or restart. Shutdown with kill all function on the controller so you can power it down. Restart is a way of rebooting without powering down. Restore restores programming from a saved copy and factory reset will restore everything to the way the Archon was shipped. I have only used shutdown and restart. I have not used restore or factory reset yet. Above that and the command entry is a display of the current software and hardware installed on the Archon. The package version is the version of webpages and script that are installed on the Archon. Above this is a timer that represents the amount of time in hours: minutes: seconds that the Archon has been up and running. This is set to 0 if the unit is reset or powered down and back up.

Between the version displays and the power options is the command input field and below that is running log of commands and return data. In the screenshot below I have entered a command GetVersions(). once you have a command typed in and hit send to the right it will execute the command line.

Below is a screenshot of the system pages after hitting send with the command above. The response is normal for that command as it does not return any data. It will update the versions data displayed above if the incorrect versions were displayed prior to sending the command. I do not know all the commands for this. If you ever need help from support they may have you enter commands and ask for the results to help in troubleshooting an issue you may have.

The command I really like and use the most is the PortCalibrate() command. Since this is the most important command in my opinion for the end user I will go over it in more detail next.

 

[n2585722]

Now the PortCalibrate command. For this command you need the module number, the port number, low setpoint, raw data at low setpoint, high setpoint and raw data at high setpoint. The command syntax is PortCalibrate(module number : Port number, low setpoint, low setpoint raw data, high setpoint, highsetpoint data). Example PortCalibrate(0:7,34.0,383,78.1,-418). This is the Archon module temp port with raw data of 383 at 34.0 degrees and raw data of -418 at 78.1 degrees. The set point needs the tenths place even if it is 0. An easy way to get the module and port number is to click on an alarm and click show data. Now select the sort by list box and select to sort by for the type of port you are calibrating. In this case it would be temp. The sort by list is shown in the screenshot below.

Now select the device list box to get a list of all ports of the type selected. On my system I have 4 temp ports All 4 are shown in the device list below in the screenshot. This list has the module number, port number and port name. Since we are just after information we can click anywhere to dismiss the list. Just don't click the update button. Module 0 is always the Archon itself. In my system module 1 is a SLX module, module 3 is a SL2v2 module and module 6 is a SL2 module. The SL2 module is the older style SL2. The two numbers separated by a colon are the module number and port number. Enter this into the port calibrate command.

Once we have the module and port number we need the setpoints and the raw data at each setpoint. Since I have 4 temp ports I usually get the raw data at each setpoint at the same time. I use a thermometer to get the setpoint. For the temp I use ice water for the low point and the tank for the high point. I turn off the heaters and fans to make sure they don't react to the temp sensors while I am calibrating. I place the thermometer and all 4 sensors in the ice water. After giving the thermometer and sensors time to acclimate to the ice water I get the reading from the thermometer and the raw data for each sensor. To get the raw data I go the the calibration for each port and write down the raw data. Allow the controller time to update the raw data before writing it down. I use the tank water for the high temp. After I get the low data I place all the sensors back where they go and place the thermometer in the tank. I give them all time to acclimate and write down the temp on the thermometer. I also get the raw data for each port. The data I got is listed below.

Module : Port Low Point 34.0 High Point 78.1
0:7 .................... 383 ....................... -418
1:3 ................... 1061 ......................... -84
3:3 .................. 1354 .......................... 118
6:3 .................. 1074 ........................... 21 This port high point raw data was at 78.0 instead of 78.1

Enter the port calibrate command into the command line. as shown in screenshot below. unfortunately it is along command all of it doesn't show on the command line.

Then press the send button to the right of the command line. The result is in the screenshot below. The log field show the command with the results returned. Since we got a reply of no return data then there were no errors with the command. The screenshot below was for the temp port on the the Archon itself. This is also a 2 point calibration for the temp port instead of the single point calibration with regular calibration.

The next temp port to calibrate is in the screenshot below. This is for the SLX module.

This is a screenshot of the homepage after the first two temp ports were calibrated. I set it up to show only the temp port inputs. At this point only the Archon and SLX ports have been calibrated using the port calibrate command.

The next port calibration is in the screenshot below. This is the Sl2v2 module.

The screenshot below is for the old SL2 module.

The screenshot below is after all 4 ports were calibrated using the port calibrate command. At this time they all have the same reading. normally they will vary some but not much more that about .3 in the range of temperature of my tank. The further away from the setpoint the more likely that there is an increase in the difference between them but at least it is not several degrees difference.

That is it for the port calibration command. It can be used on pH, ORP and salinity ports also.v

Sorry I had to add a space before and after the ":" to keep from getting some face of some sort.