Canopy and Stand Build for 42 Gallon Hex Tank

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I have switched auto top off over to the Control 4. Below is the setup screen for the input used to control the ATO. This input is currently coming from a output on my Archon. It will indicate dry when the sump is below full level and none of the alarms on the Archon that control the Archon output are active.

To set the type of input you select from a drop down list like the screenshot below. I this case I am using one of the four sense ports here so I selected sense port for the type.

Below is a screenshot of the different sense modes available for a sense port.In this case I chose water level so it will show as wet or dry. Pins 2 and 4 of the sense port are connected to a relay. When the relay is not energized the contacts are open and the sense input shows as Wet which means it is full. Once the relay is energized it will close the contacts and show as dry on the input which means the sump needs water added.

Below is a screen shot of the available sense ports. I used sense port 3 in this case.

Once I have the control input setup it was time to setup the output. Below is a setup screen for the output. This shows up after I selected creat new output and named the new output. This output Is named ATO.

First thing is to choose the type of output From the drop down list. Coralvue call the items in this list recipes. For this one I choose ATO since this is going to be an ATO output. I could have used the generic output type also but I would have to setup all the settings myself. With ATO it is already setup with the most likely settings for use as a ATO.

Next is the screen shot of the drop down to choose the input to control the output with. In this case it will be sump level which was created earlier.

Below is a screenshot of drop down to choose from the available output. Once an output is used it will be removed from the list. In this case I used Drive port 1. This is a 12v DC port that can drive up to1 amp of current are both ports together are limited to 1.5 amps. The dosing pump I use for the ATO only draws 120ma from the port. At this time I also have a relay on the port so I can graph the output using one of the unused input on my Archon. This is just temporary while I am testing it. With both hooked up is still only draws 200 ma well within the 1 amp rating. I plan on using the second drive port to run two auto water change pumps. That will still be within parameters for a single output or both outputs at the same time.

Below is a screenshot of the modes this output will be active in. Water change is the only one here at the time being that I would not want it to operate. I am not sure if I will be doing manual water changes that often but there is a mode for it already setup in the controller. You can also add you own custom modes.

Below is a drop down of the depends on outputs for this I selected return pump. If that pump is off for any reason the full sensor would probably prevent the ATO from running anyway, but this is a backup just in case the retun is off and the full sensor fails. Currently the Return pump is not actually connected to the Control 4 but I setup an output for testing anyway. The Archon already has the return pump off programmed into the sump level input for now. So the sump level input to the Control 4 will remain wet if the return pump which the Archon still controls is turned off.

In the screenshot below there is a drop down for selecting what the output will do depending on the output selected in depends on. In this case we want it to off if off.

Also for this I wanted the advanced settings enabled so I can set the on times. Also if for some reason the input is not available I will shut off this output. Since I only have one Control device this will not happen but if I had a Control 2 hooked up to the collective and I was setting up an output on one control device and using an input from another control device this could possibly happen. I setup a minimum off time. With this the output will not turn back on until at least 30 minutes form the previous on time event. I also set the minimum on time for 1 minute and 15 seconds. This makes the pump run at least this long regardless of the input. I also set a maximum on time of 2 minutes and 30 seconds. If it runs this long it will stop and send an email and a text. The run passed maximum time is set to off. If it goes that far something is wrong and need to be addressed. The last thing is notification level there is four settings none, yellow, orange and red. I have the levels set to default Setting none sends nothing, yellow sends email only, orange sends email and text, red sends email, text and turn on visual and audible alarms on the controller. I will probably be tweaking these over the next several days. Also there is a setting for max off time. I have not used this but I assume if max off time is exceeded it will send an alert jut like max on time does if it is exceeded.

Below is a screenshot of the status page. Don’t worry the pH and temp reading are from storage tanks in my garage. It is not the tank. Some of the input are not hooked to anything yet and all the outputs with exception of the ATO are not really controlling anything yet. The DI tank level and DI full and DI low are all from one of the analog 0-10v inputs. I will be attempting to make a water level sensor from a pressure transducer. I have several of the parts. I am still waiting one the others. Since no sensor is connected to the input it defaults to 2.5 volts. I have the multiplier set for 10 to give a reading in percentage. I used the push button type on the DI full and DI low. Doing this I can set a time that the action will stay active for both. I figure that will allow me to control a refill solenoid and have it stay on until the full is triggered. I will have to time how long it normally takes to refill the tank with the RODI unit and set the time for a little longer. That is another thing I will be working through. but next is AWC transferred over.

 

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I started testing a MXP2010 pressure sensor to see if I can measure storage tank level with it. I have a circuit made up to test in two storage tanks. I have a 0-10v output hooked up to two of the 0-10v inputs on the Control 4. I only had it working for a few day. I did find out that pressure is temp sensitive and is worse the longer the tubing. I had to shorten the length to just above the lids of the tanks. So for now I have the sensors on top of the tanks and cables running to the circuit on the bench. It is on a breadboard at this point. Below is a screen shot of the inputs setup on the Control 4. The glitches in the graphs are from me messing with the circuits. I shortened the tubing on the DI tank first about 4 day ago. I did the FSW tank today. I also readjusted the settings on the circuit for that tank. I will have to give it so time to see how well it tracks.

Below is the circuit for both tanks. I use a 12v power brick to power a DC to Dc converter that outputs +12 and -12 volt for the two INA128 IC’s used to amplify the output of the sensors. I still need to order more things to complete this once I am sure it is viable.

 

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I moved AWC ( Auto Water Change ) to the Control 4 this weekend. I programmed an output on the Archon to signal the Control 4 that everything is ok to proceed with the AWC. The output programming is in the screenshot below. The output is programmed as normally off. It is setup to turn on if any of the selected alarms are true. The leak detectors, sump overfull, sump under full or salt water storage low alarms will turn on this output which will alert the Control 4 not to run the AWC.

The Control 4 alert input is programmed as shown in screenshot below. It uses a sense port set as a single point leak detector. The normally closed contact of a relay that is powered by the Archon output setup above. So when the output is on the relay contacts open to trigger a leak alarm on the input of the Control 4 named AWC Alarm.

The AWC output on the Control 4 is a 12v output and drives both the fill and drain dosing pumps. The type of output is set to generic and uses 1 input for control. That input is AWC Alarm and activates when dry. Has schedule is set since this output will operate on a timed schedule. The output used is Drive Port 2. The output is active in all modes. Since that is the default I did not have to change those settings. Since this output is using the Archon to determine if it will run the depends on setting is not used here. Since the output runs multiple times a day Enable Advanced Settings is set to true.

The output settings are continued in screenshot below. The start time is set to the first instance of the runtime. The runtime is set for15 minutes. This is the runtime that was currently set on the Archon. I want it to run for 15 minutes three times a day so the run count is set to three. The Run Interval is set to 6 hours since I want the run start times 6 hours apart.

I am monitoring this output with a Archon switch input via relay contacts. The graph from that input is shown below. The extra output shown on late on the 18th was when I switched the pumps over to the Control 4. So far all looks good.

 

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I decided it was time to build a place to mount all the controller equipment in the garage. It has been on top of the work bench for the past 5 years. I built a frame to mount on the wall behind the work bench. There were two issues with that. One was the wall behind the workbench did not go out the length of the work bench and the other was there was a media distribution box already on the wall. Below is the frame in place on the wall.

Below is a close up of the holes for wiring to go through the frame. I use a 1/4 round bit in the router to round the edges of the holes.

Below is a closeup of the holes in the bottom of the frame.

Below is a photo of the bottom mounting board in place. This one will have a Din rail mounted across the middle for things such as relays and terminal to RJ45 jacks etc. Basically a DIY area.

Below is a photo of the board with the Din rail mounted with the relays mounted that I am using to interface the Archon with the Hydros.

There is two more boards for this section. i made a template where I wanted holes drilled for each mounting position. Each board will have four positions. Each position will hold 1 Control 4, 3 Control 2's, 1 WiFi power strip, 2 PC4 power bars or 4 SL modules.

Below is one of the two other boards drilled and ready for paint.

Below is one of the boards mounted ready for use.

Below is the middle board with a Wifi strip, Control 2 and Control 4 mounted in three of the mounting positions.

Below is a photo with the top board in place where it will go. I still need to finish it but I will leave it in place till I do. I still need to make the bracing for the middle mtg screws and the board for the back of the portion where there is no wall behind it. Also I still need to mount some SL modules and three PC4's unless I can reduce that number before I get around to mounting them.

There is the area above and below the media box I have to make some boards for. To the right of the box is an area I need to make the boards for the pumps and valving. That area is not as big as the area shown here. More to come.

 

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Since the Control 4 has 4 0-10v input I thought I would try and use 3 of them to monitor the level in my three storage tanks in the garage. I have 2 circuits breadboarded and I made one on a PC board with a layout like the breadboard. This is mounted in a box that will sit on top of the tank. Below is a photo of the circuit. It has the pressure sensor, DC to Dc converter for +12v and -12v to power the amp which is a INA128. There is a pot for offset and gain.

Below is the box with the cover in place.

Below is a screenshot of the inputs from the hydros. DI Level, FSW Level and Mix Level are the three sensor circuits hooked to three of the 0-10v inputs. I used a 10.5 multiplier to get the 0-100% levels. Full will be at 9.5 volts and empty will be at .5v if I use the same sensor for those also. I am still testing whether that can be done or not.

 

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I have got a little further with control board for the garage. I still have to do the boards for the pumps valves and solenoids. That will get my workbench cleared. The top left corner has the two remaining PC4's in the garage. The left one energizes relays and the contacts activate a sense ports on the Hydros collective. The right one still powers the pumps that dispense from the tanks on demand. One of them does transfer water from the mixing station to the fresh salt water tank when needed and the mix tank is ready to use. The relays are mounted on the din rail on the bottom board. The din rail also has a 12v power supply and two dual rj45 breakout boards that are used in getting signals from the tanks under the work bench. The cables are long enough I can roll the tanks out to access them when needed.

 

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Update on control board in the garage. Below is current photos. I am still working on the right side with the valves and pumps. The ATO pump and the All for Reef dosing pump are now in the lower shelf assembly. The All for Reef pump is upper right. The ATO is below it. Both use the same tube to dispense to the sump. The pump with the two green heads will hopefully be used for AWC. I still need to get the plumbing completed for it. Right now the two pumps behind the scope are the AWC pumps. All the dosing pumps in use are controlled by the Hydros system.

The photo below is of the valve and pump section. The valves at the top from left to right are Mix tank fill, DI tank fill and the last one is RODI on. There are shelves to hold 8 of the dosing pumps I use.

 

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All control of the RODI unit and the three storage tanks are controlled by the Hydros system now. I used some unique output setups to do this. The first is control of the RODI unit itself. I turn off the flow to the RODI unit when not in use. It does have a ASOV valve but I did have a leak once about two weeks after I replaced the filters so now I have a way to stop the flow if a leak is detected. Unfortunately the solenoids I got are not intended to be on constantly. I also use the unit for RO water to the ice maker and the water dispenser on the fridge. I have a tank with a pressurized bladder for this so all I need is to do is turn it on the RODI occasionally to refill the bladder. This requires a timed output but it also needs to be on if either the DI tank or the mix tank are being refilled. Below is the setup for the timer output. This output is the Generic type with a input count of 0. Has Schedule is set since we will be using a timer. Since we will be using more than this to control the actual output on this output the Output Device is set to none. It is only going to be used as a timer to control another output. Since I want to have it come on multiple times in a 24 hour period I Enabled Advanced Settings. The start time is set to 00:00:00 this is midnight so the first refill of the RO bladder tank is at midnight. I set Runtime for 10 minutes. The rest of this output setup is on the next screenshot

The Run Count is set to 24. This will run 24 times total. The Run Interval is set to 1 hour. This is the time between the start of each run. This gets the RODI to turn on for 10 minutes every hour. That is it for the timer.

The screenshot below is the setup for the output to drive the RODI on solenoid. For this output I used the Combiner Type. This takes two inputs and combines them using either an AND or OR type statement. The only catch is the inputs can only be from other outputs. For this one Input 1 is the output we created previously Called RODI Timer. This input is not inverted. Input 2 is the output called RODI demand. That output is also a combiner output which has the mix fill and the DI fill outputs as inputs. This input is not inverted. The combiner mode used here is the OR type since I want the output on if either input is active. The output device here is GR 1-1. This is a WiFi power strip in the garage. It is the first outlet on the strip. I have this active in all modes which is the default. The Depends On is set to the Archon Alarm output. This has to be another output also. The only signal from my Archon to the Hydros system is the leak alarms. If there is a leak I want this output to shut off. The Dependency Mode is set to Off if On. So if the Archon Alarm output is on this output will be off.

The screenshot below is for the output called RODI Demand. It is a Combiner Type output. It is also the second input in the output in the screenshot above. Input 1 is the DI Fill output. This input is not inverted. Input 2 is the Mix Fill output. This input is not inverted. This output uses the OR Combiner Mode since I want this output on if either input is active. The Output Device is set to none since I am not controlling a output port directly from this output. Active in modes is the default settings. Depends On is unused on this output. I will cover the Mix and DI fill outputs later. This is probably enough for now.

 

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The DI tank has three sensors. Two are for control and one is a pressure sensor I am using to give me an Idea of how full the tank is without rolling it out from under the bench and lifting the lid to check it. The first three screenshots are the setup for the three inputs for these sensors. The first on is for the DI low sensors. This is used to stop the ATO if the tank is low. It also triggers the refill sequence. It is a sensor connected to a sense port. It is a float switch. The Sense Mode is Water Level. The port the the sensor is connected to is a Control 2 sense port 2. That is it for setting up a sense port.

The screenshot below is for the full sensor. It is also connected to a sense port. The Sense Mode is also Water level. This sensor is also Connected to the same Control 2 on Sense Port 1. It is also a float switch.

In the screenshot below is the setup for the pressure sensor. It is a MPX5010GSX. It works on a 5v supply. The input type used here is 0-10v input. The input mode is Analog. The port used is on a Control 4 and is input 1 of the 4 0-10v inputs. Since full in the container I use is only 1.9v for this sensor I used the scale factor set so that it shows 100 for 100% Of full. In this case it ended up being 61.9. Also since this sensor does not go all the way down to 0v I used the offset to correct. That ended up being -17.9. When the tube is out of the water it reads 0% and when it is down in the water in a full container it reads 100.

Now for the refill control I used Combiner Type outputs since I had 2 outputs to follow. The DI full and DI low outputs are the 2 output I will use. The screenshot below is the output setup for the DI Low output. It uses the Generic Type. It is using an input count of 1. Input 1 is the DI Low input setup previously. It is set to active when dry. The input will show dry when the water level is below the sensor. No output device is selected for this output.

The screenshot below is the DI full output. It follows the DI full input. It uses the Generic Type. The input count is 1. Input 1 is the DI Full Input. This one is set to active when wet. The tank is full when the water level goes above the sensor. This one also has no output device set.

The screenshot below is an output that is used to latch on the DI fill output when it is triggered on by the DI low output. This is needed otherwise the DI fill would turn off once the water level was above the DI Low sensor and we want it to continue to fill till it is above the DI Full sensor. This output uses the Combiner Type. Input 1 is the DI Low output created before. It is not inverted. Input 2 is the actual DI fill output. It is not inverted. The Combiner Mode is the OR type. I want the output on if either input is on. The way this works is the DI low output turns this on and this output will turn on the output for the DI tank fill solenoid. In doing this it sends a on signal to input 2 which keeps this output on as long as the DI fill solenoid is on.

The screenshot below is for the DI fill solenoid. This output will actually drive the solenoid that refills the DI tank. This also uses the Combiner Type. Input 1 is the DI Fill Latch in the previous screenshot. This input is not inverted. Input 2 is the DI full sensor. This input is inverted since we want a active signal when it is not on. In this case the Combiner mode is the AND mode. I want both inputs active for this output to be on. Once DI full output comes on since it is inverted it will turn off this output. This will also turn off the DI latch output. So it will require a on from the DI low output to start the fill sequence again. This output uses an output on a Control 2 Drive Port 1. There is also a Depends On set for this output. It is a output that follow the Leak input coming from the Archon. The Dependency Mode is set to Off if On. If the Leak output is on I don't want to refill the tank. That is about it for the DI refill setup.

Below is a screenshot of all the inputs setup on my system. The first 4 are for the DI tank. The one named DI voltage is the same input as DI level. It is just setup to read back the actual voltage on the input. This is a new sensor on this input. The other two pressure sensors are different and have amplifier circuitry used with them. I have had them setup and running for a while. The one on the DI tank is just the sensor with a 5 volt regulator as the power supply. It will be a lot easier to use than making a amplifier circuit to go with the other sensor.

 

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Next is the fresh salt water storage tank. It has a full sensor and a low level sensor. When the low level sensor is triggered it shuts off the AWC output. It will also trigger a transfer from the mix tank to the fresh saltwater tank if the mix ready latch is on. I will go into that when talking about the mix tank. Below is the screenshot for the full output that follows the full sensor. It uses the Generic Type With a Input Count of 1. Input 1 is the FSW Full sensor input. It is set to Active when wet. This output will be on if water goes above the sensor.

Below is the FSW Low output. The low sensor is also used to turn off the auto water change as long as it is active. This is also a Generic Type with Input Count set to 1. Input 1 is the FSW Low sensor input. It is set to active when dry. So this output will be on if the water level goes below the sensor. Minimum on and minimum off times are set to 1 minute. The Depends On for this output is set to the MIX Ready output. The Dependency Mode is set to Off if Off. So if the Mix Ready output is off the this output will remain off.I will get into the Mix Ready output when I post about the mix tank, but basically it is set when the mix tank contents is ready to use.

Below is a hold output. It is used to hold the latch on in the case the full sensor is triggered. We want to wait and drain the mix tank to the low sensor If for some reason the full sensor is triggered. The transfer pump will turn off but the fill sequence will remain in hold until the water level drops below full. Since both tanks are the same size and the full sensoris set to a lower level in the mix tank this should not happen but this output is in place just in case it ever does. It uses the combiner type. Input 1 is the FSW Fill Latch. It is not inverted. Input 2 is the Mix Low output. This input is inverted so it is active as long as the mix is not low. The Combiner Mode is AND. The output will be on as long as both the FSW Fill Latch is on and the Mix low outputs is off. This is also a latch type output.

Below is the FSW Fill latch. It is triggered by the FSW Low output when it comes on. Once it is on it triggers the previous output the FSW Hold to on if the mix tank is not low. So they work together to keep the sequence running if the FSW tank were to fill before the mix tank goes low. It also uses the Combiner Type. Input 1 is the FSW Low output which starts the FSW fill sequence. Input 2 is the FSW Hold output. Neither are inverted. The Combiner Mode is OR. So if either input is active then the output is on. The minimum off time is set to 1 hour. It actually should be several days between each fill sequence so this will prevent a fill for a or power interruption.

Below is the output that actually powers the transfer pump. It is also a Combiner Type. Input 1 is the FSW Hold output. Input 2 is the FSW Full output. Input 2 is the only input that is inverted. The Combiner Type is AND. The Output Device is GR 1-2 which is outlet 2 on a WiFi power strip in the garage. The Depends On is set to Archon Alarm. Dependency is Off if On. The Archon still has all the leak detectors hooked to it. This output is active if the input coming from the Archon is in the wet state. For this output since it is a AND type it will be on if the FSW Hold Output is on and the FSW Full output is off as long as there are no leaks detected by the Archon.

 

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Before I get into the mix tank I figured I go over the settings for the mix tank ready part. First off is the switch input setup. I named it Mix Ok To Use. I am using one of the 0-10v inputs for the user switches. This one is setup as a pushbutton. The input is the 4th 0-10v input on the Control 4 in the garage. The trigger voltage is set to 0 volts. When the 0-10v input goes to that voltage this input will be active. It is set to stay active. Another press will end the active event.

The input above is used on the output below. This one is named Mix Ready Start. It is used to initially start the mix ready sequence. The Generic Type output is used With 1 input. The input is Mix Ok To Use. There is no output device selected for this output. The rest are at their default settings.

The output below is the latch to keep the mix ready output on after the Mix Ready Start goes inactive. It uses the Combiner Type output. Input 1 is the Mix Ready Start output. Input 2 is the Mix Ready output. This output uses the OR Combiner Mode. If either input is active the output will be on. Output Device is set to none. The rest of the settings are the default settings.

The screeshot below is the mix ready output. This output uses the Combiner Type. Input 1 is the Mix Ready Latch. Input 2 is the Mix Low output. It is also inverted so it is active when mix low is not active. The output will turn off once the mix low output is on. This output uses the AND Combiner Mode. This output does not have a Output Device selected. This output is only for the logic in the controller.

The reason for these outputs is to have a way to allow use of the contents of the mix tank after it has had the salt mix added and is ready to use. Once the salt mix has been added and sufficient time has passed all I need to do is press the push button switch and the Mix Ready output will turn on and stay on until the Mix Low output turns on. That output is turned on by the mix tank low sensor. So it will stay on until the contents of the mix tank is transferred to the FSW tank. That is it for the mix tank ready output.

 

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The last tank is the mix tank. It has three sensors. A low sensor, a full sensor and a pressure sensor. Below is the setup for the Mix Low sensor. It is connected to a sense port. It is a float switch. The Sense Mode is Water Level. The sense port is on a Control 2 in the garage. When this input was setup there were no notification settings so this output does not send a notification. If I change one of the settings it will start sending the notifications. This is a new feature on the new firmware.

Below is the Mix Full sensor setup. It also uses a sense port and is also a float switch. It is on the same Control unit as the Mix Low sensor above. As with the Mix Full sensor I did not set any alarm settings.

Below is the water level input which uses a pressure sensor. It is only for a general idea of the water level in the tank. The input type is 0-10v. The 0-10v input mode is Analog. The 0-10v input used is on a Control 4 in the garage. It is input 3. Scale factor is 10 and offset is 0. The Data Type is Generic.

There are two outputs that follow the Mix Low and Mix Full sensors to use with the combiner outputs. Below is the Mix Low output. It uses the Generic type. It has a single input. The input is the Mix Low input. This output is on when the Mix Low input is dry. The output device is none. This output is used for logic only.

Below is the Mix Full output. It also uses the Generic type and uses only one input. The input is Mix Full. This output is on when the input is wet. It also has no output device selected.

Next is the Mix Fill Latch output. It is used to latch the mix fill output on once the Mix Low output turns on. It uses the Combiner type output. Input 1 is the Mix Low output. It is not inverted. Input 2 is the Mix Fill output. In is not inverted. The Combiner Mode is OR. So if either input is on the output will be on. Ths output has no output device selected since it is only used for logic.

Below it the mix fill output. It uses the Combiner Type. Input 1 is the Mix fill latch. The second input on the mix fill latch is this output. So once this output turns on it causes the Mix Fill latch to stay on keeping this ouput on unless input 2 is on. Input two is the Mix Full output. This input is inverted. So when it is off it the same as on on a non inverted input. This uses the AND combiner mode. So input 1 has to be on and input 2 has to be off for the fill output to be on.The output device is a drive port on a Control 2 in the garage. This output depends on the Leak Garage output. The Dependency Mode is off if on. I switched the leak detectors from the Archon to the Hydros since the last post here. This output combines the AC Leak and RODI leak sensors. So if a leak is detected at either it will stop any refill or water transfers in the garage until the leak is resolved. Advanced settings are enabled. A maximum on time is set for 5 hours and 30 minutes. Run past max on time is set to off. If the fill output stays on for 5 hours and 30 minutes it will turn off and send a notification. If it takes that long something is wrong.

 

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There was a new firmware upgrade and app upgrade on the Hydros. So now I can talk about the changes. One is the addition of RODI control. So far it is targeted at someone that has a single DI storage tank. I have two tanks and a RO bladder I have to fill. I was able to try it out anyways until a version for multiple tanks is released. The new output type is RODI Filter. Below is a screenshot of the settings for the DI tank. The only one I will use on this is the Feed Output Device. It is the DI fill solenoid between the RODI unit and the DI tank. The other two outputs I don't currently have. The next setting is the high level input. This is the full sensor on the tank that is to be refilled. The next setting is the Low Level Input. This is the sensor that will start the fill sequence in the tank being filled. The next input is the Leak Detector Input. If you have a single leak detector at you RODI station and storage tank you can select that detector here. I have two sensors so I used the Depends On settings to do the same thing.

The next setting is the Depends On setting. It is set to Leak Garage. That output is a combination of the RODI leak detector and AC leak detector. The Detector under the AC is within a few feet of the RODI unit and the storage tanks. So I use it as a backup for the RODI detector. The dependency mode is off if on. I have the advanced settings enabled. I did this so I can set the Feed Maximum On Time. I set this to 4 hours. I am going to see if that shorter time frame is ok. Feed Run Past Max On Time is set to off. I want it to turn off it it goes that long and is still on. Notification level is set to orange. That way I will get an alert if it runs too long. This will create three Tiles in outputs but all lead to these same settings. It is split into three outputs so there is an indicator for all three.

Once the output is created you will get these output tiles. Another new feature is pages. I will get into that next. This is a screenshot of a page I named Testing. Only the inputs and outputs I have selected show on the page. So under output I have it set to show only the three output tiles created selecting the RODI Filter output type. The flush and boost tile I don't use so the selecting tiles to display feature works great and allow me to deselect the two unused ones.

Below is a screenshot of the page in the mode for selecting outputs to view. You enter it by press and hold of one of the tiles. You exit the same way. In the screenshot below I have already deselected the two that I don't use.

After a press and hold the screenshot below is what I ended up with.

Basically what I did was replace two outputs from my original setup with this one. It was the DI Fill and the DI Latch outputs. This is done within the output type now. I still have a solenoid on the RODI input. All I had to do was change the inputs on the original RODI demand output to the new outputs setup using the new output type. The screenshot is below.
Since I changed the Mix fill to use the new output type also I change both inputs on this output. Otherwise it is still setup the same as before.

This is it for now. I will get more into the pages on a later post. I really like the addition of the pages. It makes it a lot easier by setting up pages with inputs and outputs related to certain functions or places.

 

[n2585722]

Ok, more about pages. With pages added you can segregate the inputs and outputs on different pages. This is great for larger systems. Also you can select the page you wish the app to start on. Below is a screenshot of the pages setup. Here is a list of all the pages on my system and at the bottom is the one it will start on when the app is started. You can add and delete pages from this setup screen.

I will start with the home page Hex Tank. I could not get it all on one screenshot so the two screenshots below are of the Hex Tank page. At the top are the control units that pertain to this page. Below that are the modes I have setup. You can choose which ones are shown on the page by pressing and holding one of the tiles. Then select or deselect till only the ones you want shown on the current page are checked. Below the mode is the inputs that are selected for this page. Only the ones that are directly related to this tank are shown here. Below the inputs are the outputs. Just like the inputs these output are directly related to this tank.

The next page is the AWC page. The inputs here are related to the AWC or auto water change operation. Leak AC is under the central air conditioner but it is only a few feet from the pumps and storage tanks in the garage. So I want to know if there is a leak there as it could be caused by the AWC components. The outputs are the AWC pump And Low fresh salt water tank and any leak at the tank, air conditioner or the RODI. The wfi device shown is the one in the garage and does not control the AWC components vpvut there has to be at least on shown if there is one.

The next page is the ATO page in the screen shot below. This page is very similar to the AWC page except the tank level shown is the DI tank instead of the FSW tank. The outputs shown are ATO pump, Low DI and Leak all.

The next page next to ATO is just a page with all items shown. I did not get a screenshot of that it would take several screenshots to do that. The next one in the other direction from the Hex Tank page is the Living Room page. I put a wifi power strip in the living room to power and control some light houses, globes and jelly fish glass ornaments for my wife. These are scheduled to come on at 5pm and go off at 10pm every day.

The next page is RODI related. It is on the two screenshots below. The inputs are for the DI and mix tanks. It is only these two tank that the RODI refill with DI. There is a RO bladder tank which is charged up to pressure from the RO output. There is the leak detector inputs for RODi and air conditioner. These are only a few feet from each other. There s a TDS input. The main display on this is the output from the DI cartridge and the second one is the output from the RO membrane. The output displayed are for RODI control. There is one for the DI tank refill and one for the mix tank refill. I also have a solenoid on the input of the RODI that is the RODI on output which is on in this screenshot. The RODI On output is a combiner output if either the DI Refill feed, Mix Refill feed or the RODI timer output is on the RODI output will be on. When the screenshot was taken the RODI timer was on. The timer comes on for 10 minutes ever hour to refill the RO bladder if needed. The rest of the outputs are for flushing the RODI system. If the TDS is high it will run the flush in sequence with the RODI timer but only up to twice a day. If it triggers it is usually several days from the last use.

The next page is the Storage tank page. It is below on the two screenshots. This is inputs and outputs related to the three storage tanks Or the area they are in which is the garage. These are used to refill the DI and mix tank when they go low. Also it is used to transfer the mix tank to the FSW tank if the FSW tank goes low and the water in the mix tank is ready to use. The mix stir, mix full and garage fan are the three outputs on when the screenshot was taken. The garages gets very hot in the summer so I use the Hydros to control a fan that is aimed at the controller board. His helps keep them a little cooler during the summer months. The other non aquarium related uses to turn on the charger for the camera and light for the driveway and to turn on the light above the workbench. The mix stir output powers a powerhead in the mix tank. This will run if the water level is above 70% or the mix full input is active. There is a dispense pump in each of the three tanks. The one in the mix tank is used to transfer the mix tank to the FSW tank. The other two are used on demand to dispense either DI water or fresh salt water into containers as needed. all three lines have a manual valve also. The ones on the DI and FSW tank are kept closed until I want to dispense water from one of these tanks. That is about it for this page.

The page that is left is a test page. If I create any inputs or outputs to test something I put them on this page. When I am done they are easy to find and delete. If I am helping someone figure out a way to do something specific sometimes I will create inputs and output to make sure it will work the way it is intended to work. Below is a screenshot of that page. Right now I don't have anything there except for the output I use to do flow catches on dosing pumps.

 

[Ranjib]

I don’t know how I missed this thread. So much awesome diy hacks. Thank you for sharing, amazing craftsmanship. Hats off

 

[n2585722]

I don’t know how I missed this thread. So much awesome diy hacks. Thank you for sharing, amazing craftsmanship. Hats off

Thanks, I get a lot out of building things. I like the challenge to try and come up with a way to do something or build something to serve a purpose. This build gave me the opportunity to have some fun While doing it. Hopefully making the build thread will help someone that might be trying find some insight into how someone else has already done what they are trying to do.

 

[Ranjib]

Thanks, I get a lot out of building things. I like the challenge to try and come up with a way to do something or build something to serve a purpose. This build gave me the opportunity to have some fun While doing it. Hopefully making the build thread will help someone that might be trying find some insight into how someone else has already done what they are trying to do.

I concur.
The build threads are tremendously valuable. I get so many ideas, learn new things. For folks like me, who has very little understanding of those elements and social aspects (side effect of being an immigrant who spend all his time in this country in the silicon valley bubble), a whole lot of other things are completely new for me. So thank you for all the details. From wood working to plumbing to electronics .. your build thread captures the wholesum DIY spirit of reefers.

 

[Gup]

I wanted to get back into the hobby and try out LED's as a light source. I had a 42 gallon hex tank on hand to use as a test tank for this. My better half had a few requirements if I set this tank back up. She did not want to see a water line or the gravel or sand below the surface level on the glass sides of the tank. Also she did not want to see any equipment hanging off or under the tank. So I had to come up with a way to accomplish this and still have a working tank. I got her to compromise on 5 1/4" tubes from the wall plate to the tank along with the backup battery for the Vortech pumps. Otherwise I believe I have met her original conditions. I did not want it in a corner due to how it was built, but that was the only location I was allowed to use. But I did get a compromise on allowing it to be out from the wall enough to allow access to the back of the stand and canopy. There was carpet in the room where it was to be install. It was rather old carpet so I was allowed to cut the squares enough to allow the stand to sit on the concrete slab. I do plan on replacing the carpet squares in this room in the future. The photo below is of the finished product. The stand and canopy is made from pine like you can get from Lowes or Home Depot.

There was no plywood used in this project. Lots of screws though. I think it was close to 800 of them. The doors are raised panel doors that are 5 separate pieces.

The canopy

I will start with the canopy build. Below are the pieces of wood for the project. This photo was taken after the tear down from the initial build. After the initial build the stand and canopy was tested in the garage for about 4 weeks before it was torn down for the final assembly where the parts were glued sanded, stained and final touches were added. This project was started in 2008, so it has been going on for a long time. My saws are in the garage and in Texas there are only a few days that are comfortable to work for any length of time in there. Also I have had limited free time for the project.

The canopy consist of a inner frame that has side panels, bottom outer frame, top outer frame and lid attached. Below is the top inner frame after it was glued and had a couple coats of primer. This view is from the top. The large rectangular hole is for the acrylic cover for the LED's. The LED's and other electronics are not exposed to the area above the tank. The pocket holes drilled at angles at the corners are how the side panels are attached at the top.

Below is the bottom view of the inner frame. The open section is to allow a overflow box on the back of the tank. This tank is not drilled so I decided to use an overflow instead of drilling the tank.

The bottom outer frame holds the panels together at the bottom. It is attached to each panel with 2 screws. Below is a photo of the assembled bottom outer frame. This is a top view. There is a pattern cut out of it that matches the bottom edge of the side panels.

Below is a photo of a single section of the bottom outer frame that shows the pattern a little better.

Below is the top outer frame bottom view. This also has a pattern cut out to match the top of the side panels.

Below is a photo of a single section of the top outer frame. It is a little easier to see the pattern in this photo.

Below is an assembled side panel with door attached. The door is not completely done at the time of the photo.

The parts of a side panel and door are in the photo below.

Below is a picture of the top rail on the side panel it has a pattern cut into it to allow ventilation of the compartment where the LED's and electronics will be kept. Also the bottom is cut at a 15 degree angle so that water drips are kept in the canopy and not on the floor the bottom rail has the same 15 degree cut on the top. Both slant down toward the inside of the canopy.

The corner view below will show the slits that are used for ventilation in the top of the side panel. Also it gives a good view of the insert at the corner where the side panels come together. I think this was purchase from Home Depot. It does add to the overall appeal of the project.

I guess this is a long enough post for now. More to come.

Resembles the work of a Master Carpenter. Very, Very Nice!

 

[n2585722]

Resembles the work of a Master Carpenter. Very, Very Nice!

Thank you, but I am not a carpenter by trade. I did have fun with this build. I learned a lot about woodworking doing it.

 

[n2585722]

Below is the graphs for an automated water transfer from the mix tank to the fresh saltwater tank. The refill of the mix tank with DI from the RODI unit was also automated. The first graph is the FSW tank water level. The FSW low sensor is what starts the transfer using a PMUP pump. There is a FSW full sensor that is not shown. Under normal circumstances this sensor is never wet since the transfer start on a empty tank and ends when the mix tank is empty. The mix low sensor stops the transfer and starts the DI refill. The mix tank full sensor stops the DI refill. The level sensors are pressure sensors that I put together. They are temp sensitive as you can tell by the level going up in the afternoon and down during the coolest part of the day. I can still get an approximation of the water level in the tanks without having to roll them out and lift the lid.