Cant connect 5stage RO/DI using any of the included adapters?

[kyleinpdx]

Hey everyone, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on what I'm running up against. I just purchased the BRS 5stage 75GPD RO/DI kit, got it delivered last night and began the install this morning and I'm having a heck of a time.

1. I live in a newer US house (built 2006) so we have some strong building codes that we're up against. The ONLY hose bib I have is below the main level (3 story where "basement" is the garage) so it has a backflow preventing hose bib. When the RO/DI system is hooked up to this spigot it the pressure causes the backflow preventing valve to open and flood my floor. Fine, it is what it is.
   
   
2. Attempted hard plumbed install under the sink with the murlok EZ angle stop adapter however the thread pitch AT the water supply is different than the included adapter. The braided line leading to the faucet will attach to the adapter but the adapter itself WILL NOT thread on to the supply. Its possible I'm retarded but I tried the supply under the kitchen sink and another in one of the bathrooms and the threads are different. I tried and had my wife try as well. I can visibly see the plastic threads in the adapter getting torn up from trying. It definitely feels like a thread pitch pattern issue as the diameter seems correct, I can get the adapter to begin to tighten if I ever so slightly cross thread it, but thats not a workable solution.
   
   
3. Ok, lets try a soft install in one of the bathrooms (remember same issue with the EZ stop adapter) so I unscrew the aerator off of two different bathroom sinks and NONE of the included chrome faucet diverter valve fittings will work. All of my faucet aerator threadings are physically too large (only by what feels like 1-2mm) for any of the options to attach.
   

So far I have tried 1 hose bib, 2 undersink supply lines, and 3 aerator installs (kitchen sink and two bathrooms) and not a single one will attach. This is not my first go round with plumbing, I've removed and replaced copper, CPVC and installed other brand RO/DI systems but never run into a fitment issue like this. Am I retarded? Did I get sent an imperial or metric kit of fittings and need the opposite? I'm incredibly frustrated and lost here!

Thanks in advance.

 

[andyg1960]

I vaguely remember a similar issue years ago with the faucets in my old house. What brand are the faucets you have tried? Are all the faucets the same brand?

 

[kyleinpdx]

I vaguely remember a similar issue years ago with the faucets in my old house. What brand are the faucets you have tried? Are all the faucets the same brand?

Thanks for the reply! Kitchen sink is a glacier bay brand single handle arched faucet, the bathrooms seem to be unbranded "builders special" (read cheap) faucets. It does appear that all of the water supply shut off valves are "brasscraft" brand.

 

[kyleinpdx]

edit: not sure why the double post

 

[andyg1960]

Glacier Bay is a Lowes or Home Depot in house brand, I can't remember which one. I would take the RO adapter and the aerator(s) down to Home Depot and see if they have an adapter. The folks in the plumbing section are usually pretty knowledgeable. You can also try to screw the adapter on some of the sample faucets the have on display and see what happens.

 

[Bulk Reef Supply]

Hey everyone, I'm hoping someone can shed some light on what I'm running up against. I just purchased the BRS 5stage 75GPD RO/DI kit, got it delivered last night and began the install this morning and I'm having a heck of a time.

1. I live in a newer US house (built 2006) so we have some strong building codes that we're up against. The ONLY hose bib I have is below the main level (3 story where "basement" is the garage) so it has a backflow preventing hose bib. When the RO/DI system is hooked up to this spigot it the pressure causes the backflow preventing valve to open and flood my floor. Fine, it is what it is.
   
   
2. Attempted hard plumbed install under the sink with the murlok EZ angle stop adapter however the thread pitch AT the water supply is different than the included adapter. The braided line leading to the faucet will attach to the adapter but the adapter itself WILL NOT thread on to the supply. Its possible I'm retarded but I tried the supply under the kitchen sink and another in one of the bathrooms and the threads are different. I tried and had my wife try as well. I can visibly see the plastic threads in the adapter getting torn up from trying. It definitely feels like a thread pitch pattern issue as the diameter seems correct, I can get the adapter to begin to tighten if I ever so slightly cross thread it, but thats not a workable solution.
   
   
3. Ok, lets try a soft install in one of the bathrooms (remember same issue with the EZ stop adapter) so I unscrew the aerator off of two different bathroom sinks and NONE of the included chrome faucet diverter valve fittings will work. All of my faucet aerator threadings are physically too large (only by what feels like 1-2mm) for any of the options to attach.

So far I have tried 1 hose bib, 2 undersink supply lines, and 3 aerator installs (kitchen sink and two bathrooms) and not a single one will attach. This is not my first go round with plumbing, I've removed and replaced copper, CPVC and installed other brand RO/DI systems but never run into a fitment issue like this. Am I retarded? Did I get sent an imperial or metric kit of fittings and need the opposite? I'm incredibly frustrated and lost here!

Thanks in advance.

I'm sorry you're having such a tough time! I think the best option would be to arrange a call for you and one of our support staff to walk through this. We're back in the office tomorrow, and are in until 7pm CST. Shoot me a PM and we can find something that works so you can get your new system installed and producing some water!

 

[kyleinpdx]

I'm sorry you're having such a tough time! I think the best option would be to arrange a call for you and one of our support staff to walk through this. We're back in the office tomorrow, and are in until 7pm CST. Shoot me a PM and we can find something that works so you can get your new system installed and producing some water!

Thanks for checking in, I dont think its necessarily something to be walked through over the phone, I understand what needs to happen just dont have the correct components. As it is, looks like I need a booster pump as well, just ordered the doorbuster 8800 kit and a john guest supply adapter. Third BRS order this week ;Blackeye. Hopefully this adapter works!

 

[Newb73]

The easiest thing to do is install the system in your garage/basement (i assume that would be next to the hot water heater) and pull the ro lines directly to your salt mixing station and ATO.

Not a fan of putting them in kitchens and bathrooms where leaks can be a problem.

 

[kyleinpdx]

Wanted to close the loop on this in case anyone coming after me has the same issues. I received the MUCH better quality John Guest angle stop adapter from BRS yesterday and it was a night and day difference. For one its actually made of metal, secondly the 1/4th in line leading to the RO/DI is on a swivel so its easily positioned.

After I verified the JG adapter worked I took a deeper look into the plastic murlok adapter that came in the BRS kit and it appears that the first two rows of threads were screwed up, not sure if it was a manufacturing defect or what but it was obvious under a bright light and magnifying glass why it was cross threading. So if you run into an issue with the black murlok right angle stop adapter either pick up the JG version or force the ******* to thread with a set of vice grips.

Also got the booster pump installed and its making a huge difference, went from 30ish PSI to 90 (appears to be the factory setting on the 8800) and now I have a fully working, fully pressurized split RO drinking water setup with a selectable DI stage for the tank water. All in all I am happy with the build quality of the actual RO/DI unit, however I will say to anyone debating buying one of the off the shelf "kits" or just buying an RO/DI then the actual connections/fittings you need, do the latter. I probably could have saved 20-30 bucks by simply buying the value kit then adding what options I wanted.

For anyone wondering:

I have the John Guest 3/8" to 3/8" and 1/4" adapter on the cold water line of my kitchen sink >
The aquatec 8800 > input on the RO unit > after the RO membrane I have the auto shut off valve > then the booster pump pressure switch > "IN" side of the dual TDS meter > then I split the line using one of the murlok Y adapters > line one goes into the DI and out the other side with the "OUT" side of the TDS meter here. Other line on the Y adapter immediately has a check valve then a T, the top portion of the T goes to the drinking water faucet, the bottom to the pressure canister.

I realize thats probably hard to follow but I hope it gives you an idea.