ChemiClean

steak.mama

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Need some help! I’ve been suffering with a cyano bloom for a month now. I’ve tried all the suggestions, 30% water changes, a couple days no light, very little food. It has t done anything. My water peramaters are normal. So I have bought Chemiclean and am ready to get this going. But I notice it says I should have a water stone for oxygen. Is this necessary or is there something else I can use?
Also, should I do a water change first, or right after I put it in or wait a few days?
thanks for your help!
 

vetteguy53081

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Need some help! I’ve been suffering with a cyano bloom for a month now. I’ve tried all the suggestions, 30% water changes, a couple days no light, very little food. It has t done anything. My water peramaters are normal. So I have bought Chemiclean and am ready to get this going. But I notice it says I should have a water stone for oxygen. Is this necessary or is there something else I can use?
Also, should I do a water change first, or right after I put it in or wait a few days?
thanks for your help!
Oxygen IS necessary and its a product that sometimes work and sometimes causes other issues. I regard it as an alternative and not a solution. 30% water change, a couple days with no light, and feeding very little food will not fix this.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development.

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
 

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I'd recommend using an airstone if you have one. If you have a few powerheads you could aim them at the surface and try to create gas exchange that way instead. Follow the directions and you should be fine.

Use your skimmer to get it all out after. Be prepared to remove LOTS of foam from the skimmer. If you have a skimmer with a drain tube, hook that bad boy up to an empty jug for fewer trips to the sink.
 
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steak.mama

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What are 'normal' parameters for you? Cyano often appears when no3 hits 0 and in spots in the tank that dont recieve a lot of flow
Yes, we’re 0 nitrates. We’ve also changed the wave machine in all different spots. We have 2 small fans and one large one. There is plenty of movement.
 
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steak.mama

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I'd recommend using an airstone if you have one. If you have a few powerheads you could aim them at the surface and try to create gas exchange that way instead. Follow the directions and you should be fine.

Use your skimmer to get it all out after. Be prepared to remove LOTS of foam from the skimmer. If you have a skimmer with a drain tube, hook that bad boy up to an empty jug for fewer trips to the sink.
Ok….I’ll try that.
 
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steak.mama

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Oxygen IS necessary and its a product that sometimes work and sometimes causes other issues. I regard it as an alternative and not a solution. 30% water change, a couple days with no light, and feeding very little food will not fix this.
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development.

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 3-5 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the 5 days, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
Yes, we’ve tried this…we didn’t do the chemipure but everything else we tried. Should I try Chemiclean first and then if it still doesn’t work, try the lights?
 

kevgib67

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I removed my activated charcoal prior to using. When the algae was gone I followed directions and did a water change. I can’t remember the exact timeline as it was well over a year ago and the first time I used it. I wish you luck, it worked great for me.
 

vetteguy53081

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Yes, we’ve tried this…we didn’t do the chemipure but everything else we tried. Should I try Chemiclean first and then if it still doesn’t work, try the lights?
If youre going to do chemiclean- dose at 90% and remove both carbon, turn off skimmer 24 hrs and restart skimmer without collection cup for 24 hr and then run skimmer as normal.
You said you tried method. . .
Full 2-5 days?
Bacteria during the day for a week?
MOST IMPORTANT- Lights OFF a FULL 3-5 days? Light is fuel and will causes this bacteria to reproduce. A couple days will do absolutely Nothing for this
 

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Yes, we’re 0 nitrates. We’ve also changed the wave machine in all different spots. We have 2 small fans and one large one. There is plenty of movement.
the 0 nitrate is where your issue lies, stop doing so many water changes and let it rise to around 10ppm. if by fans you mean like actual cooling fans, those dont do anything except help your aquarium cool down by increasing evaporation. feed a little more, keep an eye on your nutrients and remove the cyano manually during maybe a weekly waterchange of 20%.
keep your lights on because you need other microbials to outcompete the cyano which is impossible at 0 nitrates, this is why you have the problems.

IMO throwing chemiclean at this issue will not solve it in the long run, neither will a blackout period unless you change the chemistry enough (raising nutrients). It may solve it for a couple of days but it will come back

at least that is how i beat cyano in the early days, never used a chemical additive in my life
 

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Cyano is a bacteria, ChemiClean is an antibiotic. It works wonders. Follow the directions closely and use the appropriate amount for your water volume. Use an airstone as directed. When people have issues with the treatment it’s because they used too much. My 25 lagoon has exactly 17 gallons of water. I would dose for the 17 gallons, not 25.
 

Dan_P

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Need some help! I’ve been suffering with a cyano bloom for a month now. I’ve tried all the suggestions, 30% water changes, a couple days no light, very little food. It has t done anything. My water peramaters are normal. So I have bought Chemiclean and am ready to get this going. But I notice it says I should have a water stone for oxygen. Is this necessary or is there something else I can use?
Also, should I do a water change first, or right after I put it in or wait a few days?
thanks for your help!
Chemiclean is an antibiotic and works by killing bacteria, cyanobacteria and other bacteria. The potential sudden release of nutrients from a large amount of dead bacteria will be rapidly consumed by living bacteria with the possible result of a system wide oxygen depletion, hence the advice to add extra aeration. The other advice to remove as much of the cyanobacteria before adding Chemiclean is also an attempt to minimize oxygen depletion. The water change is likely unnecessary.
 

Redemptioner

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Chemiclean is erythromycin, as long as you understand the other con's of using antibiotics and you don't put the water with the chemiclean down the drain, it will certainly resolve the outbreak quickly. Ozone is the best bet for breaking down the erythromycin after treatment is finished, and should also be used on on any water you dispose of.
 

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