Chromis Damsel almost dying? MANY missing scales on bith sides and NOT uronema (i believe)

[daniel_mourra]

Hello! My chromis Damsel was just moved out of QT (copper power) about a week ago due to an ich outbreak in the tank… she never showed ich but did display there missing scales or wounds while in QT. after copper qt ended, i moved her to a non copper holding tank while my DT is Fallow…..

these wounds wont seem to get better and since today she has stopped eating and is swiming verticaly and looking sad…

had her in API marine melafix for 7 days… no improvement…. Is there something that can be done? I dont think its Uronema as botha sides and many scales are afected.

 

[daniel_mourra]

Any input from @Jay Hemdal or @vetteguy53081 ?

 

[Ben.QLD2]

Blue/green chromis.

Looks like physical damage possibly with some early bacterial involvement. It doesn't look that bad though to be honest.

Was it alone? I'd say either fish aggression or something spooked it and it swam into things etc.

What's the water parameters and history of the fish?

It could also be chemical burns, ammonia etc.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hello! My chromis Damsel was just moved out of QT (copper power) about a week ago due to an ich outbreak in the tank… she never showed ich but did display there missing scales or wounds while in QT. after copper qt ended, i moved her to a non copper holding tank while my DT is Fallow…..

these wounds wont seem to get better and since today she has stopped eating and is swiming verticaly and looking sad…

had her in API marine melafix for 7 days… no improvement…. Is there something that can be done? I dont think its Uronema as botha sides and many scales are afected.

For starters, at level of copper you used, how did you measure it ?
melafix is mixed with copper would be a no-no
Additionally melafix is tea Tree oil and is rendered useless in marine setting as its merely a tonic and rarely heals anything even in freshwater. Stress-guard falls in the same category. Does not do a thing.
The lifted scales appear to be bacterial and is likely gram negative and needs immediate treatment , yes in quarantine with Seachem kanaplex along with added aeration via airstone. This may become progressive based on the scale extension.
This is not ammonia but a form of dropsy.

 

[daniel_mourra]

Blue/green chromis.

Looks like physical damage possibly with some early bacterial involvement. It doesn't look that bad though to be honest.

Was it alone? I'd say either fish aggression or something spooked it and it swam into things etc.

What's the water parameters and history of the fish?

It could also be chemical burns, ammonia etc.

Hello!

she was in QT with other 2 damsels (medium agressive), 1 royal gramma and a diamond goby in a 10gal QT tank @ 2.5 ppm copper power and 200 mg of nitrofurazone. changed water every 3 days becuase i did not have biological filtration in the tank but amonia levels were present in the “alert” area in the seachem amonia alert badge.

currently water is at 1.025 salinity, 80.6F water (live in the carribean) and was 7 days under melafix and sheachem stressguard after copper treatment.

she was eating great. Until today. She separated from her group and hid all morning until right now that she looks sad….

 

[daniel_mourra]

For starters, what level of copper did you add this fish to and how did you measure?
melafix is mixed with copper would be a no-no
Additionally melafix is tea Tree oil and is rendered useless in marine setting as its merely a tonic and rarely heals anything even in freshwater.
The lifted scales appear to be bacterial and is likely gram negative and needs immediate treatment , yes in quarantine with Seachem kanaplex along with added aeration via airstone. This mat become progressive based on the scale extension.
This is not ammonia but a form of dropsy.

She was in copper 2.5ppm as measured by HANNA copper checker. 200mg of nitrofurazone for 14 days in 10 gal QT tank.

after that she was moved to a 55gal holding tank NO COPPER + 7 days melafix (i thought it worked… now i know its useless)…

what does gram negative mean?

 

[vetteguy53081]

She was in copper 2.5ppm as measured by HANNA copper checker. 200mg of nitrofurazone for 14 days in 10 gal QT tank.

after that she was moved to a 55gal holding tank NO COPPER + 7 days melafix (i thought it worked… now i know its useless)…

what does gram negative mean?

Gram negative is a bacteria that attacks faster and i just seen you added Nitrofurazone . Copper contains bonds that make it less potent opposed to straight copper and when mixed with the nitro may have reduced the bond and made it slightly toxic causing a reaction.

 

[daniel_mourra]

Gram negative is a bacteria that attacks faster and i just seen you added Nitrofurazone . Copper contains bonds that make it less potent opposed to straight copper and when mixed with the nitro may have reduced the bond and made it slightly toxic causing a reaction.

I used COPPER POWER and Nitro based on a BRSTV video recomendation…. Didnt know it was toxic, i thouth nitro reduced bacterial infections posibility due to gill iritation by copper power….

Would there be a problem if i medicate the whole holding tank with kannaplex?

55gal
1 powder brown tang
1 foxface
1 blue hippo tang
1 scoppas tang
1 royal gramma
1 yellow tail damsel
1 coral beauty angel
1 bi color anger
1 neon engineer
1 diamond goby
3 chromis damsels including our sick damsel

NO CORALS in tank
NO INVERTS in tank

 

[vetteguy53081]

I used COPPER POWER and Nitro based on a BRSTV video recomendation…. Didnt know it was toxic, i thouth nitro reduced bacterial infections posibility due to gill iritation by copper power….

Would there be a problem if i medicate the whole holding tank with kannaplex?

55gal
1 powder brown tang
1 foxface
1 blue hippo tang
1 scoppas tang
1 royal gramma
1 yellow tail damsel
1 coral beauty angel
1 bi color anger
1 neon engineer
1 diamond goby
3 chromis damsels including our sick damsel

NO CORALS in tank
NO INVERTS in tank

I believe the tank you mentioned has no nitro? If not, yes on kanaplex

 

[daniel_mourra]

I believe the tank you mentioned has no nitro? If not, yes on kanaplex

No nitro… so i will proceed with 1 dose of kannaplex to the whole tank as per kanaplex instructions 1 scoop every 5 gal every 2 days max 3 doses…

after that if I dont have carbon would there be a problem if i just leave the water like that and just rely on water changes?

 

[vetteguy53081]

No nitro… so i will proceed with 1 dose of kannaplex to the whole tank as per kanaplex instructions 1 scoop every 5 gal every 2 days max 3 doses…

after that if I dont have carbon would there be a problem if i just leave the water like that and just rely on water changes?

Change water, monitor ammonia and again- increase oxygen

 

[MischiefReef]

I used COPPER POWER and Nitro based on a BRSTV video recomendation…. Didnt know it was toxic, i thouth nitro reduced bacterial infections posibility due to gill iritation by copper power….

Would there be a problem if i medicate the whole holding tank with kannaplex?

55gal
1 powder brown tang
1 foxface
1 blue hippo tang
1 scoppas tang
1 royal gramma
1 yellow tail damsel
1 coral beauty angel
1 bi color anger
1 neon engineer
1 diamond goby
3 chromis damsels including our sick damsel

NO CORALS in tank
NO INVERTS in tank

Just a suggestion, your holding tank may be a little overstocked. I know you’re already dealing with the other issues and may not have a choice, so no judgement, but it might help alleviate some of your issues if your tank stocking is lower too!

 

[daniel_mourra]

Ok. Just added 9 level scoops of kanaplex (45gal) and 2 airstones… here are some better pics. @vetteguy53081

 

[daniel_mourra]

Just a suggestion, your holding tank may be a little overstocked. I know you’re already dealing with the other issues and may not have a choice, so no judgement, but it might help alleviate some of your issues if your tank stocking is lower too!

Thank you! All input is welcome… yes 100% right i also feel its overstock unfortunatley the 175gal in ehich they originally live is fallow due to ich (2 months to go…) they will have to resist the 55gal 2 months (fingers crossed)….

 

[daniel_mourra]

@Jay Hemdal any ideas?

 

[MischiefReef]

Thank you! All input is welcome… yes 100% right i also feel its overstock unfortunatley the 175gal in ehich they originally live is fallow due to ich (2 months to go…) they will have to resist the 55gal 2 months (fingers crossed)….

Totally understand! And I know right now you will need to keep the water volume small while treating. But after the course of treatment, for the holding period, I would suggest going to Home Depot and grabbing a 55 gallon brute garbage bin or maybe even two. If you have any spare pumps or heaters laying around, it should cost you less than $100 and you can double or triple your water volume for holding fish during the fallow period in your 175gallon. I mean technically you can even return the bins within 3 months so really doesn’t hurt. Keep it in mind for after the treatment!

 

[BeanAnimal]

I mean technically you can even return the bins within 3 months so really doesn’t hurt. Keep it in mind for after the treatment!

No technically that is theft and giving such advice is asinine and irresponsible. You pull that crap and everyone else has to pay because of your dishonesty. It’s okay because somebody else picks up the tab for your ‘free tool ‘rental’?

 

[MischiefReef]

No technically that is theft and giving such advice is asinine and irresponsible. You pull that crap and everyone else has to pay because of your dishonesty. It’s okay because somebody else picks up the tab for your ‘free tool ‘rental’?

Haha I get where you’re coming from, but in this case I’m trying to make a suggestion for the benefit of the fish, I didn’t say he had to return the bin! Besides it’s a garbage bin, it’s really not going to do too much harm to the bin, or the next user. I’ve seen people return way crazier stuff after way more use! Anyways, the point of the post was more to give him ideas on how to get his fish through a 2 month holding period successfully. I don’t want to sound like I’m advocating this approach of returning the bins, so let’s just call that part a terrible idea and suggestion!

 

[Jay Hemdal]

@Jay Hemdal any ideas?

Sorry - just woke up.

When I see one chromis with scale damage and hear that the other 2 are fine, I almost have to conclude it is from aggression. There may be secondary infection, but the first step would be to isolate the fish. However, the two remaining chromis may start fighting one another. People who have read my posts here know that I truly dislike this species in aquariums - prone to Uronema and shipping stress, if you get them through quarantine (I often lose 50%) then they often fight (despite being a "schooling" species).

I went back and looked at your past thread. Is the copper still going on? I think you should pump the brakes and not get any new fish until the current fish are stable.

Jay

 

[BeanAnimal]

Haha I get where you’re coming from, but in this case I’m trying to make a suggestion for the benefit of the fish, I didn’t say he had to return the bin! Besides it’s a garbage bin, it’s really not going to do too much harm to the bin, or the next user. I’ve seen people return way crazier stuff after way more use! Anyways, the point of the post was more to give him ideas on how to get his fish through a 2 month holding period successfully. I don’t want to sound like I’m advocating this approach of returning the bins, so let’s just call that part a terrible idea and suggestion!

LOL you are defending your answer.

IT IS THEFT

It does not matter if it is damaged or not. Buying something and using it with the intention to return it afterwards is theft. I don’t care if it is a dress, a garbage can, or a hammer. It drives he costs of good up and is wrong.