Cinnamon clown with white stuff on him.

Maz1992

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I had high nitrates, did a series of water changes and now my clow has this white spot on him. I can't Teel if it's brook or something else.
The system is 6months old, the clown entered around the 5month mark after QT.
Ph 7.8
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20ppm

I feed pellets and PE mysis.
The clown had ick when I got him and was treated with cupramine.
20221201_194020.jpg
20221201_194022.jpg
 

Zach B

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A bit hard to tell for me but it looks to be brooklynella or ick. Best of luck #fishmedic
 

vetteguy53081

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I had high nitrates, did a series of water changes and now my clow has this white spot on him. I can't Teel if it's brook or something else.
The system is 6months old, the clown entered around the 5month mark after QT.
Ph 7.8
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20ppm

I feed pellets and PE mysis.
The clown had ick when I got him and was treated with cupramine.
20221201_194020.jpg
20221201_194022.jpg
There has been an array of clowns lately with Brooklynella hostillis often affecting clowns and damsels. The heavy mucus on the fish has likely developed into a secondary bacterial issue producing lesions often confused with ich. treatment will need to be in quarantine.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
 
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Maz1992

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Thank you for the quick response.
I tried to post a video but get an error.
He is still eating but hiding in the corner of the tank breathing heavy and occasionally rubbing against the sand sifting goby.
I'm not sure what quick cure is.
Is there a specific formalin solution I can get on Amazon?
Should I run anything else with it in qt?
 

Jay Hemdal

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Welcome to Reef2Reef!

You can try hosting a video on YouTube.

Jay
 
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Maz1992

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There has been an array of clowns lately with Brooklynella hostillis often affecting clowns and damsels. The heavy mucus on the fish has likely developed into a secondary bacterial issue producing lesions often confused with ich. treatment will need to be in quarantine.
Typical treatment is a formalin solution is mixed with in a separate container with either fresh or saltwater. Start with a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration then performing treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin base at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank. The longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment the more effective it will be at eliminating this issue.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief can be achieved by giving the fish a FW bath or dip in water same temperature as display tank. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank using either quick cure (more effective) or Ruby Rally Pro. Ruby takes a little longer and initial treatment generally takes 2-3 days to really start going to work.
I linked a YouTube video. If it is Brook I have nothing to treat with until December 13th.
If it is ick or Valvet. I have two 10gal QT's ready to go.
He is still eating like a champ but definitely has odd behavior.
I also noticed just one white spot on my sapphire Damsel that definitely looks like ick.
The other blue Damsel is ok and the Goby is ok.
We are now on day 6 since it started.
 

vetteguy53081

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I linked a YouTube video. If it is Brook I have nothing to treat with until December 13th.
If it is ick or Valvet. I have two 10gal QT's ready to go.
He is still eating like a champ but definitely has odd behavior.
I also noticed just one white spot on my sapphire Damsel that definitely looks like ick.
The other blue Damsel is ok and the Goby is ok.
We are now on day 6 since it started.
It may be brook and may be bacterial but video a little fuzzy to confirm
If brook and no meds, a 5 minute freshwater dip will give it temporary relief
 
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Maz1992

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It may be brook and may be bacterial but video a little fuzzy to confirm
If brook and no meds, a 5 minute freshwater dip will give it temporary relief
Humble looked at it also and thinks it may be flukes as the fish is not flacking or sluffing off slime coat.
I set up a dip station to see if any flukes fall off.
As bad as it sounds I'd rather have ick or flukes instead of brook due to not being able to get formalin.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Ugh - I just saw that my post didn't get sent.....

Tough to say exactly what that is (may be more than one issue). The rapid breathing indicates some gill diseases (since other fish in the tank aren't affected and water quality issues would hit all fish about the same - while diseases can hit some fist before others). The spots could be Brooklynella, mucus or ich.

At this point, you could try a 5 minute FW dip and move the fish into a QT and treat with copper. Then, observe the other fish closely for issues and treat them as needed. If it ends up being Brook, you'll need something else than copper, like formalin.

Jay

*edit - you will only see one species of fluke after a dip, Neobenedenia. The others are too small to see without a microscope. If this is flukes, then they would be gill flukes and you will not see them in a dip. You will see some improvement in the fish a day or so after a dip.
 

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