Cirrhilabrus Complexes: Inferiority Need Not Apply (1st Revision)

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DirtDiggler2823

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Cirrhilabrus, the “Fairy Wrasses”, are one of the most elegant, active, and colorful reef fish. Their appeal in a reef tank is common to many, but not all have a well-rounded understanding of the compatibility amongst them. Enter the notion of “complexes”: groupings of very closely related species within a genus.

Complexes create groups in which the species are genetically very closely related. Physically the species in these groupings have similar structure: the body shape, fin shapes/sizes, and maximum length. Coloration is not necessarily a commonality within a group, but patterns are to a moderate degree. From a genetic viewpoint, it is quite likely each complex originated from a common ancestor or perhaps from one species still within the complex. Complexes have large implications on levels of aggression and compatibility amongst other complexes. For the most part, the level of aggression within a complex is similar for all those species it contains (of course, there are always exceptions).

The chart below presents complexes within the Cirrhilabrus genus. The chart can stand on its own to guide a hobbyist in selecting various species for mixing, as it is based on the phylogram of the genetic heritage of the genus. It includes notations on aggression (and exceptions), minimum tank size, and sub-groups within each complex.

The complexes are named simply by the most genetically senior species of the complex. The relationships between the complexes are represented are represented by the solid lines in accords with the phylogram. Within most complexes, there are also sub-groups. These sub-groups are worth distinguishing from the rest of the complex as their relative levels of aggression typically differ. On that note, the color shading of each box represents the general level of aggression relative to the others. Red boxes have the highest levels of aggression, while green have the lowest. A handful of species go against the norm of their respective sub-group, and those are designated by a “+” for those more aggressive and a “-” for those less aggressive.

When seeking to mix two or more species within the same tank, the chart should be used in the following manner. The further removed two complexes are the more likely the odds of compatibility. Additionally, the odds of success also improve for similar levels of relative aggression between two complexes; the higher the aggression levels the less likely this will be successful. Two species within the same sub-group should never be mixed. If the tank is very large (over 200 gallons), it may be possible to mix two species with the same complex but within different sub-groups. There is one notable exception: those two complexes in red (Filamentosus and Scottorum) should not be mixed with any other complexes or amongst themselves unless the system is extremely large, say over 400 gallons.

For example, mixing an Exquisite, Lineatus, and Hooded is rather safe. However, mixing a Conde, Rubriventralis, and temminckii would be problematic at best.

Hopefully with this knowledge, this chart can prevent needless frustration and incompatible additions the next time you find yourself in your local fish store searching for your next Fairy Wrasse addition.

Happy Reefing!


If you love wrasses check out the Wrasse Lovers Thread.
For more information on all other types of reef wrasses check out the All About Reef Safe Wrasses in Aquaria Thread.
Featured image courtesy of Eric Zard (zibba).

You probably just saved me a ton of pain.
 

Johnson556

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So, putting a Cirrhilabrus solorensis and a Cirrhilabrus cf cyanopleura together in a 200g tank, disaster or possible?
 

Johnson556

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Done the impossible before with 2 purple tangs and 3 yellows in one tank, let’s hope these two will make it. Might try the picture trick for a bit until I can catch one/both. Thanks
 

eatbreakfast

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Done the impossible before with 2 purple tangs and 3 yellows in one tank, let’s hope these two will make it. Might try the picture trick for a bit until I can catch one/both. Thanks
For how long have they been together? Tangs live decades. Keeping them together for less than 3yrs isn't success yet. They mature at a slower rate than fairy wrasses.
 

OrionN

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So, putting a Cirrhilabrus solorensis and a Cirrhilabrus cf cyanopleura together in a 200g tank, disaster or possible?
Disaster is possible. I would use an Acclimation Box and go from there.
I have both in my 320. The smaller C. solorensis was in first then than the larger C. cf. cyanopleura. My tank is significantly larger plus I have about 20 wrasses in it.

For me, I would never "Done the impossible..." by throw the five tangs together like you did and see which one make it, but to each his own.

I agree with eatbreakfast that tangs live decades. A friend of mine have a yellow tang that is 22 years in his tank and counting. Still going strong.
 

Johnson556

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Disaster is possible. I would use an Acclimation Box and go from there.
I have both in my 320. The smaller C. solorensis was in first then than the larger C. cf. cyanopleura. My tank is significantly larger plus I have about 20 wrasses in it.

For me, I would never "Done the impossible..." by throw the five tangs together like you did and see which one make it, but to each his own.

I agree with eatbreakfast that tangs live decades. A friend of mine have a yellow tang that is 22 years in his tank and counting. Still going strong.

The tangs are between 4-8 years old, have been together for two years. None of them have any battle scars and signs of aggression are minimal to none. As for the wrasse, I managed to catch the Rubyhead and put him in a 10G for now.

Ordering an acclimation box and will try that route, I do everything I can not to lose fish so if the aggression continues after the acclimation box one will have to go. Surprised how aggressive this solorensis is, never caused any problems prior and that fish is one of 5 wrasse in the tank.
 

Jacked Reefer

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Question, Used this list to plan out my Cirrhilabrus stocking but have not been able to find anything on different genus agression like would a halichoeres be a bully or be bullied?
 

eatbreakfast

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Question, Used this list to plan out my Cirrhilabrus stocking but have not been able to find anything on different genus agression like would a halichoeres be a bully or be bullied?
This thread is just for Cirrhilabrus-to-Cirrhilabrus interactions.

Smaller Halichoeres species usually mix just fine with Cirrhilabrus, but some more assertive Halichoeres may chase a little.
 

saltyhog

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I can't find C. laboutei on the chart anywhere and I can't remember where he was on the old one?
 

cody hendrix

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What are the chances of a pink margins, rhomboid and Lineatus all coexisting in a 130 gallon tank? The tank will also have a pintail,flame,labouts, exquisite, katherine and red velvet.
 

eatbreakfast

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What are the chances of a pink margins, rhomboid and Lineatus all coexisting in a 130 gallon tank? The tank will also have a pintail,flame,labouts, exquisite, katherine and red velvet.
There will be some squabbling, but the labouti and red velvet are more concerning.
 

DirtDiggler2823

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Depends on the particular species, but generally that is not too many at all.
Not gonna lie, when i look at the photos of the wrasses, i want them all, but i know that's not how it works. I am very interested in the less agressive ones though. I've been focusing on the smaller ones, so I'm curious as to how many i could safely house in the 90 gallon im standing up. I figured 3 would be a good starting point, but in your opinion, what's the max for guys? I've added a pic of the tank, empty. I know the scape has a great deal of influence on what can be stocked.
20181104_114222.jpeg
 

eatbreakfast

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Not gonna lie, when i look at the photos of the wrasses, i want them all, but i know that's not how it works. I am very interested in the less agressive ones though. I've been focusing on the smaller ones, so I'm curious as to how many i could safely house in the 90 gallon im standing up. I figured 3 would be a good starting point, but in your opinion, what's the max for guys? I've added a pic of the tank, empty. I know the scape has a great deal of influence on what can be stocked.
20181104_114222.jpeg
It depends on a lot of factors, but possibly 5-8 fairy wrasses in a 90g.
 
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