That is great news. I'll ask the question again once i have the sand and rock in the tank, which should be before the end of the month.It depends on a lot of factors, but possibly 5-8 fairy wrasses in a 90g.
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That is great news. I'll ask the question again once i have the sand and rock in the tank, which should be before the end of the month.It depends on a lot of factors, but possibly 5-8 fairy wrasses in a 90g.
There will be some squabbling, but the labouti and red velvet are more concerning.
The rhombid is the least aggressive, so get that before the others. Getting smaller specimens may help.Yea those two are my biggest concern as well.The labouti and red velvet will be last 2 to go un. I am also going to get them both on the smaller side compared to the others. I didn't know about the three that are right next to each other in the complex. Out of the pink margins, rhomboid and lineatus what do you think is the most aggressive? All three of them are some of my favorite. So I would love to have them. If i get them small would that help?
Some of the Cirrhilabrus species that would work include; isosceles, lunatus, brunneus, rhomboidalis, rubeus, aurantidorsalis, and jordani.I have been struggling with compatibility suggestions for wrasses, and I don’t know what I should do.
I have a Waterbox 100.3 coming soon, which is 3’x2’x2’. I purchased a Tricolor Fairy Wrasse, which seems to be a common name for a Lubbock’s Fairy Wrasse. I also had a McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse that my clownfish pair beat to death. I removed the clownfish, and I am down to the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse. I’d love to have another wrasse, if possible, so I need help with my decision. I’ve read some charts, but I’m still confused about compatibility.
The Waterbox has a display volume of ~70g, and I will be going bare-bottom. I picked the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse and McCosker’s Flasher Wrasse because they don’t require sand.
Can you help me by providing some suggestions of other wrasses that would be able to live with my current Tricolor Fairy wrasse, if possible? I think it will help me understand some of the charts as well. The common names of the wrasses tend to throw me off.
Some of the Cirrhilabrus species that would work include; isosceles, lunatus, brunneus, rhomboidalis, rubeus, aurantidorsalis, and jordani.
Some of the Cirrhilabrus species that would work include; isosceles, lunatus, brunneus, rhomboidalis, rubeus, aurantidorsalis, and jordani.
Correct.Based on the information that you provided, it appears that any of the complexes outlined in red in the attached image should be compatible with the Tricolor Fairy Wrasse, outlined in blue, that I currently have. Is that correct?
They are in the middle for Cirrhilabrus temperment. They should be fine.So I purchased my first fish this weekend. They are in QT right now. I picked up a Solon wrasse, a lubbocks wrasse, and a sleeper blue dot goby. The two wrasses I picked up, these are the more peaceful wrasses, yes? Not trying to deal with any wrasseholes right out of the gate.
Looking at adding a McCoskers wrasse, a carpenters wrasse, and a whip fin wrasse. Foresee any issues with those guys?They are in the middle for Cirrhilabrus temperment. They should be fine.
I'll let TJ or Hunter chime in but the Whipfin is very aggressive and will be the issue even if you add last.Looking at adding a McCoskers wrasse, a carpenters wrasse, and a whip fin wrasse. Foresee any issues with those guys?
And that is why I asked. I can do without aggressive fish at this point. Live aquaria is listing them as peaceful.I'll let TJ or Hunter chime in but the Whipfin is very aggressive and will be the issue even if you add last.
https://m.liveaquaria.com/product/1509/whip-fin-fairy-wrasse?pcatid=1509&c=15+1378+1509Whipfins are anything but peaceful.
Yep. They are on Hunter's chart as high aggression in the bottom right - in deep red.
While usually pretty good LA isn't infallible.Amazing. Thanks! wonder why liveaquaria would list them as peaceful if they aren't.
FairWhile usually pretty good LA isn't infallible.