Citron clown goby is sick, can anyone help ID?

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Wassup Reefers,
Need some help with a disease ID. I got a citron clown goby for my 40cube a few weeks ago. A handful of days after I introduced him to the reef appetite and behavior seemed normal but I noticed a few white specks on just his fins. The next day his fins were clean/clear of specks so I thought it might have just been grains of sand stuck to him at that time. About a week or two later you could definitely see whatever it is getting worse and worse. Not educated enough on diseases to narrow it down, so I could really use some help or suggestions. (Tank also houses 2 clowns, 1 diamond goby, 1 anthias, and 1 royal gramma) after seeing the gramma rubbing on a trachy I noticed it and the anthias starting to show signs of whatever the citron has but the diamond goby and clowns look and act healthy) picture we’re taken 4-5 days apart.

8FE223CA-4CA0-44DC-B6E3-CCC9E2FE767F.jpeg 2AC659FC-6D9F-41AA-99FA-D234D218024C.jpeg 5B9761C5-810E-40A7-8E0C-A2B2C974342A.jpeg E22705A8-19F7-41BC-B2FC-41B841200F17.jpeg
 

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Wassup Reefers,
Need some help with a disease ID. I got a citron clown goby for my 40cube a few weeks ago. A handful of days after I introduced him to the reef appetite and behavior seemed normal but I noticed a few white specks on just his fins. The next day his fins were clean/clear of specks so I thought it might have just been grains of sand stuck to him at that time. About a week or two later you could definitely see whatever it is getting worse and worse. Not educated enough on diseases to narrow it down, so I could really use some help or suggestions. (Tank also houses 2 clowns, 1 diamond goby, 1 anthias, and 1 royal gramma) after seeing the gramma rubbing on a trachy I noticed it and the anthias starting to show signs of whatever the citron has but the diamond goby and clowns look and act healthy) picture we’re taken 4-5 days apart.

8FE223CA-4CA0-44DC-B6E3-CCC9E2FE767F.jpeg 2AC659FC-6D9F-41AA-99FA-D234D218024C.jpeg 5B9761C5-810E-40A7-8E0C-A2B2C974342A.jpeg E22705A8-19F7-41BC-B2FC-41B841200F17.jpeg

While we're waiting some some shots taken under white light - do you have access to a treatment tank for the fish?

Jay
 
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While we're waiting some some shots taken under white light - do you have access to a treatment tank for the fish?

Jay
I do, the gramma is currently in QT. Have you ever seen fish disease disturb coral?
 
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Jay Hemdal

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I do, the gramma is currently in QT. Have you ever seen fish disease disturb coral?
Fish diseases in a tank will not do anything to corals. However, it is pretty common to see a water quality issue (which harms corals and makes fish susceptible to disease) at the same time as a fish disease.

What is the Gamma in the QT for?
This goby may have ich - its skin is kind of mucosy, but I can see some distinct white spots.

Jay
 
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Can you please provide clear, in-focus, shots under white light?
Fish diseases in a tank will not do anything to corals. However, it is pretty common to see a water quality issue (which harms corals and makes fish susceptible to disease) at the same time as a fish disease.

What is the Gamma in the QT for?
This goby may have ich - its skin is kind of mucosy, but I can see some distinct white spots.

Jay
Thanks Jay, The gramma is in QT at my lfs for what looked to be the same thing the goby has. Is ich pretty distinguishable from velvet? What medications would you recommend running when I set up my own QT? And/Or do you think it would add more stress than necessary to transfer them all causing their immune system to drop?
 

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Thanks Jay, The gramma is in QT at my lfs for what looked to be the same thing the goby has. Is ich pretty distinguishable from velvet? What medications would you recommend running when I set up my own QT? And/Or do you think it would add more stress than necessary to transfer them all causing their immune system to drop?
Ich shows distinct white spots. Marine velvet usually only shows rapid breathing. In later infections, velvet can create sort of a fine dusting on the fish's skin, mixed with mucus, but always rapid breathing. Ich only causes rapid breathing right before the fish is going to die.

For both of these protozoans, copper is the best treatment.

Jay
 
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Ich shows distinct white spots. Marine velvet usually only shows rapid breathing. In later infections, velvet can create sort of a fine dusting on the fish's skin, mixed with mucus, but always rapid breathing. Ich only causes rapid breathing right before the fish is going to die.

For both of these protozoans, copper is the best treatment.

Jay
If the visibly infected fish are eating regularly and behavior is normal do you recommend pulling them out for a fallow period to let all protozoans die out in the DT or in your experience does that cause more stress than necessary to the fish weakening their immune system and risk further infection? Or is the ich management route knowing it’s in the tank but practicing good husbandry hoping they build an immunity of some sort to it more realistic?
And thanks as always for your help and advice!
 

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If the visibly infected fish are eating regularly and behavior is normal do you recommend pulling them out for a fallow period to let all protozoans die out in the DT or in your experience does that cause more stress than necessary to the fish weakening their immune system and risk further infection? Or is the ich management route knowing it’s in the tank but practicing good husbandry hoping they build an immunity of some sort to it more realistic?
And thanks as always for your help and advice!
If they have spots and it is confirmed ich (i.e. the spots change location on the fish every few days) then yes, the best treatment is the removal of all fish, treat them with copper and then let the tank lay fallow. The length of time for that varies on temperature, and degree of risk willing to take: 45 days at 81 degrees F with a slight risk of reinfection to 76 days at 79 degrees with essentially no risk.

Jay
 
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If they have spots and it is confirmed ich (i.e. the spots change location on the fish every few days) then yes, the best treatment is the removal of all fish, treat them with copper and then let the tank lay fallow. The length of time for that varies on temperature, and degree of risk willing to take: 45 days at 81 degrees F with a slight risk of reinfection to 76 days at 79 degrees with essentially no risk.

Jay
Suggestions for risk of coral damage/stress during the temperature change for the fallow period? And does the anemone my clowns host in help them fight off the ich at all? As they are the only ones in the tank so far to not show any signs or symptoms
 

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Suggestions for risk of coral damage/stress during the temperature change for the fallow period? And does the anemone my clowns host in help them fight off the ich at all? As they are the only ones in the tank so far to not show any signs or symptoms
No. Get them out.
 

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Suggestions for risk of coral damage/stress during the temperature change for the fallow period? And does the anemone my clowns host in help them fight off the ich at all? As they are the only ones in the tank so far to not show any signs or symptoms
What is the temperature of your tank right now? I've kept reef corals at 81 with no issues, but they need to be adapted for that. Moving the corals out won't work because they would still need to be held fallow for 76 days. If your reef is around 78 degrees, and you have lots of expensive corals, best to just leave the tank fallow for 76 days.

No - anemones do not help clean clownfish of ich.

Jay
 

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Ok thank you. Does a series of fresh water dips ever rid the fish of it or only copper treatment?
FW dips are never 100% for killing ich trophonts on the skin, don't rely on that. Dips are helpful as a diagnostic tool for flukes, and to buy some time with heavy fluke infestations. They can also help with velvet, again, just to buy some time.

Jay
 

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