Clarisea in RSR XL300 WITHOUT modifying sump?

NotoriousDMC

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Hello! I am relatively new to the hobby and have a nicely progressing RSR XL300. I’ve added an Apex, Trident and Red Sea Dose 4. My last remaining regular (every 2-3 days) maintenance (other than cleaning glass) is…filter socks. I am interested in either version of the ClariSea and am wondering if anyone has put one of these in an XL300 or similar RSR sump without removing the filter sock holders and glass for the overflow?

I know that the ClariSea can be pump fed, but I don’t have room for another pump and I also don’t want to lose the benefit of ALL water going through the ClariSea (unless I decide to allow some to bypass it for nutrient control) Any thoughts on whether you could put the ClariSea in the fuge section and then plumb the main overflow to it (and leave the emergency overflow as is)? Would the water coming into the sump then fill up the entire chamber before flowing into the Skimmer section? I assume the current/stock overflow would remain empty unless the emergency backup were needed.

Or is this a situation where the only correct way is to modify the sump?

Thoughts?
 

blaxsun

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You may be hard-pressed for space later on by putting it in the refugium chamber, and you'll still have the return chamber with the emergency overflow to deal with. All the videos I've seen have have them modifying the filter sock holders and removing the ATO.
 
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NotoriousDMC

NotoriousDMC

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Thanks for your thoughts. I think the option of plumbing directly to the overflow and not modifying the sump is a no-go.

I am moving toward pump feeding it based on some positive comments about that approach here on R2R and from the LFS where I’d be buying the unit. At least two potential benefits: not permanently modifying the sump; not keeping the system “too clean.”

The idea being to put a DC pump (already have an extra) either in the overflow or under the ClariSea in the fuge. I might even run it only at night on a timer and avoid any need to turn the ClariSea feeding pump off during feed/maintenance modes.

FYI, I’ve removed the Red Sea ATO and, instead, ran my ATO directly from my RODI Brute using the Neptune ATK.
 
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NotoriousDMC

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Still looking into this, measuring, etc., and am wondering, assuming it fits, whether I could place the ClariSea on top of the current overflow and sock holder? Or would that be too high out of the water? I assume water flows out of the bottom of the unit only and, therefore, if it’s in even just a bit of water, noise will be of minimal concern?
 

AJsReef

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For the unit to work optimally it has to be submerged partially, if not you won’t trigger the float valve to advance the roll. There’s a balance between how deep as depth impacts sensitivity and role longevity.
As for noise, it flows out the sides as well. I found it needs to be a few inches submerged to be silent. Anything else and the trickle/rushing water sound is quite loud
 
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NotoriousDMC

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Thanks. I can’t tell you how many videos I’ve watched trying to figure out exactly how the water flows out, but of course, they’re all submerged so it’s next to impossible to tell. This was really helpful insight.
 
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NotoriousDMC

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Well, in case it helps others, I decided to go with the pump feed—at least for now—and I’ve attached pics of the install. It’s by no means expert, but it works awesome! I used an extra 1000gph DC pump and run that at 30-50%. Water is definitely crystal clear and I am fairly confident that it has significantly reduced skimmate. I am considering running it at night only to ensure I don’t strip the system of nutrients.
 

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Lavey29

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Looks nice, I have the same tank. So you got rid of your sock tray? Is that a Neptune fuge light? Where do you have your doser? External to the cabinet?
 
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NotoriousDMC

NotoriousDMC

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I got rid of the plastic tray but did not go the route of permanently modifying the sump (removing baffles, silicone, etc.).

It is a Neptune GRO light and, not having ever owned a different light previously, all I can say is when I know my nutrients have been high enough (basically, above 0 on Hanna checkers), chaeto grew like crazy. It also supported pulsing Xenias in my fuge but I removed them when I changed the sump around. I realize the fuge/filter/skimmer may not be in the correct or traditional order, but I am willing to see what happens. I have one of the newer RS dosers in my cabinet, dosing the RS program (also under my cabinet). I use an Apex ATK in my Brute RODI container and plumbed it along my baseboard to the tank. I also put an Apex PMUP in my return chamber and use that to do smaller water changes through the same line, but the Easter water is diverted, of course, away from the RODI container to my drain.

5768B8D5-C8FC-434B-8AAD-6D0E44CAE148.jpeg 88551F7C-5CD9-4756-8B6C-741FD98DB96F.jpeg
 
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NotoriousDMC

NotoriousDMC

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Looks nice, I have the same tank. So you got rid of your sock tray? Is that a Neptune fuge light? Where do you have your doser? External to the cabinet?
Update: I moved my ($89) DC pump to the return chamber and further reduced flow with a ball valve so that it matches my tank flow. I have it set so that nearly all water, other than a few drops) gets captured into the ClariSea. I have i controller by an Apex and it follows my skimmer (off when return is off and defers 5 mins. to let sump level set.

Moved my fuge between the ClariSea and the skimmer. I know there’s a risk the chaeto gets in the skimmer, but I’ve mitigated that by placing a piece of live rock near the venturi.
 

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NotoriousDMC

NotoriousDMC

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Indeed! Officially maxed out. If it weren’t for the real potential to upgrade to a larger tank, I’d have gone with the smaller ClariSea. At least the rolls on this one will last a long time!
 

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