clownfish - some white spots

rojees

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Hey everyone,

This isn’t good but can anyone identify what is wrong with my clownfish? Just noticed some white spots, but not the size of salt grain (as far as I can see)

His appetite is good, swims with ease and is acting normal. But obviously the white spots aren't normal. It wasn’t there yesterday. I changed 25% water 3 days ago. Water params are normal.

is it ick? Brook? Clownfish disease? Please advise!

I have access to metroplex, api general cure, ruby rally + ruby ich, and paraguard (if any of those help in my case)

IMG-1717.jpg IMG-1721.jpg IMG-1726.jpg IMG-1729.jpg IMG-1730.jpg IMG-1731.jpg
 

Jay Hemdal

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yes just on one clownfish

My other clown is fine, as is my firefish. All eating well and swimming well.
Can you post a short video? That helps me quite a bit when trying to judge issues with fish, especially clowns.
Jay
 

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I absolutely can. Hope this works. Thanks in advance
Well, sorry, it didn’t tell me as much as I hoped. It is swimming with slightly clamped fins and is breathing a bit heavy. Trouble is, I can’t confirm is it is any of the three common issues; ich, velvet or brooklynella. None of the drugs you listed are likely to help though, except maybe the ruby reef.
I’m not familiar with the other ruby ich product, does it list its ingredients?

Jay
 
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rojees

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Well, sorry, it didn’t tell me as much as I hoped. It is swimming with slightly clamped fins and is breathing a bit heavy. Trouble is, I can’t confirm is it is any of the three common issues; ich, velvet or brooklynella. None of the drugs you listed are likely to help though, except maybe the ruby reef.
I’m not familiar with the other ruby ich product, does it list its ingredients?

Jay
Dont be sorry, appreciate any help.

I will shortly upload a video from this morning.
I ended up trying the ruby rally + ruby ich last night.
I dont have the bottle with me now, but this is from their website:

Ruby Reef combo pack features 2 powerful medications that can be used safely together, Rally is a copper free treatment for tropical and marine fish suffering with marine velvet, dinoflagellates, flukes and bacterial infections. It does not affect nitrifying bacteria. An excellent preventative treatment for quarantine tanks. Active ingredients has acriflavine, aminoacridine, 0.24-percent formalin. Kick-Ich is a water treatment for the control of ich in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. Kick-Ich has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macro algae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biological filtration. Active ingredient has 5-nitroimidazoles safe to use in combination with Rally.
 
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rojees

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todays video

Still eating well, (after 1st dose of Kick ich and rally)
The "sick" clownfish is definitely losing colour and its fins are white-ish
 

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Jay Hemdal

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todays video

Still eating well, (after 1st dose of Kick ich and rally)
The "sick" clownfish is definitely losing colour and its fins are white-ish
Yes, the sicker clown is producing a lot of mucus. The spots do look to big to be ich, but then, if it is a really small clown, the size is relative. I would continue with your treatment as that is really your only course of action. The acriflavine has multiple uses as a fish treatment, so will cover other problems.

Jay
 
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rojees

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Yes, the sicker clown is producing a lot of mucus. The spots do look to big to be ich, but then, if it is a really small clown, the size is relative. I would continue with your treatment as that is really your only course of action. The acriflavine has multiple uses as a fish treatment, so will cover other problems.

Jay
Thanks Jay.

The sick clown didn't make it, looked very poorly and changed pale color very quickly.
My firefish also didn't make it.

My second clown was covered in small white dots, so I thought it wouldn't make it either; it kept its appetite and I continued with the Rally reef +Ich products.

Its maybe the 6th/7th day now (since I started the treatment) and happy to say that the clown is not only still alive but looking pretty good. Most, if not all spots are gone + appetite is great. I am surprised it didn't die too.

I'm also now unsure of what to do now, seeing that the treatment seems to be working, but I don't know what the disease was. If it was Ich/Brook/Velvet, wont that just stay in the tank now?
 

Jay Hemdal

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Thanks Jay.

The sick clown didn't make it, looked very poorly and changed pale color very quickly.
My firefish also didn't make it.

My second clown was covered in small white dots, so I thought it wouldn't make it either; it kept its appetite and I continued with the Rally reef +Ich products.

Its maybe the 6th/7th day now (since I started the treatment) and happy to say that the clown is not only still alive but looking pretty good. Most, if not all spots are gone + appetite is great. I am surprised it didn't die too.

I'm also now unsure of what to do now, seeing that the treatment seems to be working, but I don't know what the disease was. If it was Ich/Brook/Velvet, wont that just stay in the tank now?
That seems pretty typical of “reef safe” meds - when they work, there is often some fish lost in the process.
My general advice is to wait at least 45 days from the date you last saw symptoms before adding anything new, and then, quarantine the new fish (which can take a bit over 45 days in any event). Tough to do, I know..
Jay
 
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rojees

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That seems pretty typical of “reef safe” meds - when they work, there is often some fish lost in the process.
My general advice is to wait at least 45 days from the date you last saw symptoms before adding anything new, and then, quarantine the new fish (which can take a bit over 45 days in any event). Tough to do, I know..
Jay
Great to know, i was wondering why the two died off so quickly.

45 days is long....but will have to do what is needed.
I'm confused, I always thought the ICH (not sure velvet or brook), would stay in the tank as long as there is a host.
So obviously if the tank is fishless, then ICH dies off eventually after X number of days.

In my case since one clown remains and lets assume it lives on, wouldn't adding a new fish later (even after quarantine) not risk getting ICH later in the main tank?
 

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Great to know, i was wondering why the two died off so quickly.

45 days is long....but will have to do what is needed.
I'm confused, I always thought the ICH (not sure velvet or brook), would stay in the tank as long as there is a host.
So obviously if the tank is fishless, then ICH dies off eventually after X number of days.

In my case since one clown remains and lets assume it lives on, wouldn't adding a new fish later (even after quarantine) not risk getting ICH later in the main tank?
Ich can stay active in a tank if there are hosts present, but not all the time. Your other option would be to remove the remaining fish out and leave the tank fallow for up to 76 days.
Jay
 

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Dont be sorry, appreciate any help.

I will shortly upload a video from this morning.
I ended up trying the ruby rally + ruby ich last night.
I dont have the bottle with me now, but this is from their website:

Ruby Reef combo pack features 2 powerful medications that can be used safely together, Rally is a copper free treatment for tropical and marine fish suffering with marine velvet, dinoflagellates, flukes and bacterial infections. It does not affect nitrifying bacteria. An excellent preventative treatment for quarantine tanks. Active ingredients has acriflavine, aminoacridine, 0.24-percent formalin. Kick-Ich is a water treatment for the control of ich in marine and freshwater aquaria. It has been scientifically formulated to eliminate the free swimming, infectious stage of the ich life cycle while being safe for all freshwater and marine aquaria. Kick-Ich has a long shelf life at room temperature and is supplied in easy to use, self dosing bottles. Safe for all fish, corals, invertebrates and macro algae, as well as the facultative anaerobes and nitrifying bacteria essential to biological filtration. Active ingredient has 5-nitroimidazoles safe to use in combination with Rally.
okay so rally could help with infections, kick ich kills FREE SWIMMING ich, very few meds "cure" ich. if you find its ich, use it with metroplex and it can treat ich inside a fish and kill the free swimming life stage of the ich. run the full cycling of the meds, otherwise the ich "eggs" will hatch and be free to re-infect the tank
 

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Ich can stay active in a tank if there are hosts present, but not all the time. Your other option would be to remove the remaining fish out and leave the tank fallow for up to 76 days.
Jay
kick ich kills the free swimming stuff, if you do it right it should kill all the "ich eggs" when they "hatch" and become free swimming
 

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Great to know, i was wondering why the two died off so quickly.

45 days is long....but will have to do what is needed.
I'm confused, I always thought the ICH (not sure velvet or brook), would stay in the tank as long as there is a host.
So obviously if the tank is fishless, then ICH dies off eventually after X number of days.

In my case since one clown remains and lets assume it lives on, wouldn't adding a new fish later (even after quarantine) not risk getting ICH later in the main tank?
Ruby reef kills FREE SWIMMING ICH, NOT ich inside a fish. Rally keeps infections away, Metroplex could help ich fight off ich inside them.
 
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rojees

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okay so rally could help with infections, kick ich kills FREE SWIMMING ich, very few meds "cure" ich. if you find its ich, use it with metroplex and it can treat ich inside a fish and kill the free swimming life stage of the ich. run the full cycling of the meds, otherwise the ich "eggs" will hatch and be free to re-infect the tank
thanks for that!

I dont know if its ich. But the current treatment seems to be workig for the remaining clown. I will try metroplex anyhow to be safe!
 
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