Considering Hamilton Cebu Sun MH/T5 combo.Please share your thoughts/experiences.

[A. grandis]

The Radium with electronic ballast will show a bluer spectrum, with any setting.
The M80 will power the Radium properly and it will show the correct spectrum, whiter and brighter to the eyes.
The difference of the power with the electronic will have negative effects on the bulb in the long run, possibly turning bluer.
To get the best out of Radium bulbs we need to have the M80 ballast as it was made for it.
Nice thread!

 

[dz6t]

Can you please share some data on the spectrum changes? Thanks

 

[A. grandis]

If you find data please let me know.
I don't know of any document that shows numbers on that.
It's just a common experience that many of us noticed.
That also happens when you change the ballast with new bulbs... you can tell.
I think there was a guy that used different ballasts side by side and confirmed that...

 

[dz6t]

Spectrum changes. Not PAR.

Sorry my post was replied to this comment.
Sorry for the confusion.

 

[A. grandis]

Ok...
It's all yours, Boom!

 

[BoomCorals]

Sorry my post was replied to this comment.
Sorry for the confusion.

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/2/aafeature2

http://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/ballast comparison/ballast-comparison.html

You can find a lot more with a quick google search too.

 

[jda]

Radium on electronic is under driven by 70 or 80 watts. It is made for the m80 spec. The color can shift a bit bluer since all other output is down, but the blue spike stays nearly the same, but it is very close. The m80 Radium is 29% more powerful than on IceCap:


You can see the same thing with other bulbs designed for m80 ballast. Here is Phoenix 14k with about the same output as the Radium on Icecap and PFO HQI:


If you are going to use Radium 20k, then get a m80 ballast. If you are going to use an electronic ballast, then get the new Hammy 20k.

 

[jda]

BTW - I run 14k Phoenix and 20K Radium without any T5s... but I do have a newer tank with 20K Radium that I have UVL Super Actinic on for 12 hours since I only run the Halides for 4.

 

[dz6t]

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/2/aafeature2

http://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/ballast comparison/ballast-comparison.html

You can find a lot more with a quick google search too.

I meant the statement by Boomcoral that radium 250w on electronic ballast only last about 6 month due to spectrum shift. Not about the different spectrum shift using M80 vs electronic

 

[Bill Saucier]

https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/2/aafeature2

http://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/ballast comparison/ballast-comparison.html

You can find a lot more with a quick google search too.

From what I can tell, these data are for the 400 watt Radium, not the 250 watt. One can't run a 400 in the US with the intended magnetic ballast, I have been told.

Recently I have had measurements taken (in air) comparing 14,000 250 watt Hamiltons with Radium "20,000K" (which are not really 20,000 Kelvin). The PAR increased roughly in proportion to the actual wattage (a bit below, because wattage drawn is a bit higher than wattage used).

 

[sgrosenb]

Hey folks - reviving this thread. I'm thinking about switching from my LED/T5 Hybrid (4x Radion XR15 G4 Pro's, 4x T5 bulbs) to a MH / T5 combo. Does anyone have any experience with the Hamilton Cebu Sun fixtures? I'm eyeing the 60" version with 250W. So first question is - any reviews on that?

Second question is what ballast and what Kelvin to go with. I'm a rookie here - is there a benefit to electronic ballasts? Seems like the trend is to get an electronic ballast and a Hamilton bulb, which I'm fine with. Only thing is that I don't necessarily love the look of an overly blue tank... So any suggestions on what bulbs to get? I always read that 20k are beautiful, but could I go with a 14k and supplement with actinic and blue+ T5's?

Thanks everyone!
-Scott

 

[Ocelaris]

I would do a lot of research on the types of ballasts vs bulbs first. I say that because there's going to be fewer bulbs made in the long run, and certain ballasts work with certain bulbs. Electronic ballasts work better than most, but I'm not sire if they will run all bulbs. Magnetic ballasts come in various flavors; some have ignitors for HQI bulbs and others don't (the so called pulse or strobe start kind). Pick the bulb you want based on color and future availability and match your ballasts to those. There's also double ended or single ended (mogul) socket. I don't think there's many double ended bulbs left?

My only complaint about the cebu sun fixtures is that the t5s are open to the salt spray. I have 2 t5 fixtures, one with an acrylic cover and one without. I'll never get one without again as it gets so dirty and lowers the t5 output. If you want a all in one, I think Hamilton is the only game in town. Otherwise pendant fixtures are readily available used on the forums or from local members for cheap. A lot of mh users utilize led strips for the extra pop also.

Whatever mh setup you get, count on the heat generated and height you'll need for suspending them. My favorite of all was the 10k ushio bulb with actinic, but ushio stopped making mh bulbs I believe and more manufacturers are going that way as well. If I had the height above the tank I'd probably use mh, but it's just not happening for me. Best of luck, you'll love them.

 

[A. grandis]

Hey folks - reviving this thread. I'm thinking about switching from my LED/T5 Hybrid (4x Radion XR15 G4 Pro's, 4x T5 bulbs) to a MH / T5 combo. Does anyone have any experience with the Hamilton Cebu Sun fixtures? I'm eyeing the 60" version with 250W. So first question is - any reviews on that?

Second question is what ballast and what Kelvin to go with. I'm a rookie here - is there a benefit to electronic ballasts? Seems like the trend is to get an electronic ballast and a Hamilton bulb, which I'm fine with. Only thing is that I don't necessarily love the look of an overly blue tank... So any suggestions on what bulbs to get? I always read that 20k are beautiful, but could I go with a 14k and supplement with actinic and blue+ T5's?

Thanks everyone!
-Scott

The fast answer to your questions is:

Get a Hamilton Cebu 14K system with electronic ballast.
Just keep in mind it has fans.
Choose the ATI Blue Plus for supplementation and you are done.
You need to decide the wattage. Call Hamilton any time to ask questions. They have the best customer service!

I'm running my Spectra with 2 X 250W Hamilton 14Ks with Luxcore and 4 X Blue Plus over my 75gal now and love it. I love all halides!!!
I also tried Hamilton 250W 20Ks with Luxcore bulbs in the same Blue Plus combo. The Hamilton 20K is not that blue even with the Luxcore, but way bluer then the 14K, specially with the 4 Blue Plus.
You won't regret the Cebu. It's a bit bulky and has the fans. Results are stunning!

 

[A. grandis]

I would do a lot of research on the types of ballasts vs bulbs first. I say that because there's going to be fewer bulbs made in the long run, and certain ballasts work with certain bulbs. Electronic ballasts work better than most, but I'm not sire if they will run all bulbs. Magnetic ballasts come in various flavors; some have ignitors for HQI bulbs and others don't (the so called pulse or strobe start kind). Pick the bulb you want based on color and future availability and match your ballasts to those. There's also double ended or single ended (mogul) socket. I don't think there's many double ended bulbs left?

My only complaint about the cebu sun fixtures is that the t5s are open to the salt spray. I have 2 t5 fixtures, one with an acrylic cover and one without. I'll never get one without again as it gets so dirty and lowers the t5 output. If you want a all in one, I think Hamilton is the only game in town. Otherwise pendant fixtures are readily available used on the forums or from local members for cheap. A lot of mh users utilize led strips for the extra pop also.

Whatever mh setup you get, count on the heat generated and height you'll need for suspending them. My favorite of all was the 10k ushio bulb with actinic, but ushio stopped making mh bulbs I believe and more manufacturers are going that way as well. If I had the height above the tank I'd probably use mh, but it's just not happening for me. Best of luck, you'll love them.

The heat generated can be cut big time when you place a fan parallel between the fixture and the water surface.

As far as I know the only Ushio bulb that they discontinued for some reason was the 250W 14000K. I could be wrong, but that is the last info I've got from Ushio late last year.
Radium will not stop producing and Hamilton is strong restocking soon after they sold a lot of their stock in January.
I think Phoenix bulbs are also produced and well sold still.

 

[sgrosenb]

The fast answer to your questions is:

Get a Hamilton Cebu 14K system with electronic ballast.
Just keep in mind it has fans.
Choose the ATI Blue Plus for supplementation and you are done.
You need to decide the wattage. Call Hamilton any time to ask questions. They have the best customer service!

I'm running my Spectra with 2 X 250W Hamilton 14Ks with Luxcore and 4 X Blue Plus over my 75gal now and love it. I love all halides!!!
I also tried Hamilton 250W 20Ks with Luxcore bulbs in the same Blue Plus combo. The Hamilton 20K is not that blue even with the Luxcore, but way bluer then the 14K, specially with the 4 Blue Plus.
You won't regret the Cebu. It's a bit bulky and has the fans. Results are stunning!

Thats great info thanks so much all. @A. grandis do you have the Hamilton contact info available? I cant seem to find it. thanks!

 

[Hot2na]

250w 10 k halide bulbs and supplement with some UVL t5's (2actinic+ 2aquasun)

 

[Breadman03]

Thats great info thanks so much all. @A. grandis do you have the Hamilton contact info available? I cant seem to find it. thanks!

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hamiltontechnology.com

 

[Om84]

I have this light but the 24” version on my 66 g SPS tank. I’m running 20K Hamilton bulbs with 4 T5’s. Been running for 2 years now. Solid light. Will grow everything very well. I did also get the m80 ballast and radiums but it was way too intense and switched back to the original. I actually prefer the Hamilton bulb. Dave at Hamilton is extremely helpful and their customer support has been top notch in my experience. Heat is an issue in the summer months but I do run a chiller. I’m old school and for me metal halides + T5 is superior to any other combination.

 

[A. grandis]

Thats great info thanks so much all. @A. grandis do you have the Hamilton contact info available? I cant seem to find it. thanks!

Contact Us: [email protected]
800-447-9797

Hamilton Technology

hamiltontechnology

hamiltontechnology.com

 

[sgrosenb]

Cool thanks @A. grandis I am going to call them tomorrow. I have 4x T5 and 4x XR15 Gen 4 Pro's about 9" off the surface with diffusers and I can only get about 250 PAR a foot down into my tank (it is 24" deep). My sand bed is at 200 PAR and my top 6" are at close to 400 PAR. I'd like those to be stronger, and I also think the look of MH / T5 will be much more pleasing. I had the same tank about 10 years ago with 3x250w MH and 2x T12 actinics and I just remember it being absolutely stunning. I've always been disappointed with my LED/T5 combo look compared to my old MH/T12 look. I remember the day I set up my newer tank 2.5 years ago, after spending thousands on LED lights, etc and I just was like "ugh"... gut punch - this doesn't look anything like my MH/T12 I knew and loved a decade ago....