Copper Test Readings-QT

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stcroixohana

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Heyo,
I've recently gotten a nice case of velvet in my FOWLR... Fun stuff.
I've moved my sailfin, gladiator clown, and filefish to QT while my pajama cardinal, lawnmower blenny, mandarin, and hawkfish are all still in the main and thankfully not showing symptoms (though I'm sure it's just a matter of time).
I set up a 10g QT with sponge filter, PVC hideouts, heater, and small lights for viewing.
Brought home some Cupramine, an API test kit, some extra aminos/vitamins and spirulina.

I'm on day 5... I've done a slower ramp than the dosing suggested just to make sure no one's shocked to death and tested twice daily. First 50% water change on day 3 and reupped to knock the levels back up after removing the water. As of now, I've got a fairly steady dose of 20 drops/10.5g as the bottle recommends.
I've tested 7 times with the API kit, no reading.
I picked up the Searched copper test kit and tested 5 times, no readings.
My fish look like hell. Heavy breathing, laying, not eating. May be Brook, may be velvet but I don't know what hell's going on given my dosing with the Cupramine had been actually a little higher than recommended given I haven't gotten any readings.
Really trying to save a few fish here, otherwise I'm going to formalin baths and a full breakdown to scorching my LR to kill the crap and hit reset with new substrate, not optimal......
I'm going to likely put everyone back in the main until I can figure out what's going on with the copper readings here.
Any thoughts would be will appreciated.
 
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piranhaman00

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You need to get the Hanna copper high range with cupramine.

Cupramine is vastly inferior to copper power. I would do a huge water change and switch to. Copper power and dose to 2.1ppm immediately. No need to ramp copper like you read everywhere, especially with velvet
 

Spieg

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Ditch the API kit and get a Hanna. Copper is not something you want to mess up the dosage. Also, when you do water change, I'd mix copper in the new water before adding to tank.
 
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stcroixohana

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You need to get the Hanna copper high range with cupramine.

Cupramine is vastly inferior to copper power. I would do a huge water change and switch to. Copper power and dose to 2.1ppm immediately. No need to ramp copper like you read everywhere, especially with velvet
Glad the high-minded, holier than thou fishkeeper at my LFS mentioned that. Balls. Pretty sure the tang and the client are goners.
I put them back in the main in hopes that they'll calm down and survive, then I'll start the process all over with the right comps in place.
Thank you for the reply.
 
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stcroixohana

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I figured as much but, given how I was stunned towards to API and Searched (which cost roughly the same as a Hana together) I relied on the information given.
Damnation.
Can I ask you guys a question regarding QT..?
Clearly one needs to keep normal water parameters in check through the process, I've never really been a fan of the idea of cycling while treating ill fishes on a QT but also have been told to stay away from Prime or Microbacter as it could interfere with treatments. I've used some media and tank water to set up QTs but still performing water changes ecru 2-3 days to keep ammonia from spiking and causing more stress. This said, is the idea that cycling won't be necessary if the QT is established with existing water/media or do we just expect to constantly run changes and redosing meds to base levels?
I'm really working to be as disciplined as possible but also have 3 kids and as wife and a career so I'm trying to keep the workload in check to achieve what's best for our fish community.
 

1fastfxr

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As everyone has said get a Hanna checker. I prophylacticaly treat with Copper Power, ramping up over 5 days, for a 14 day period. Then do three 50% water changes and run Cuprasorb to remove the copper. I also treat with Metroplex in the water for 10 days at this time. After that, I do 2 treatments of PraziPro and feed Metroplex bound by fucus to the food for 14 days. As I understand it Cupramine is really hard on the fishes internal organs.
 

dwest

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I am very sorry to say this but…The fish in the display will also need to be treated. They will certainly carry velvet. The DT will need to have a fallow period. Good luck.
 
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stcroixohana

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I am very sorry to say this but…The fish in the display will also need to be treated. They will certainly carry velvet. The DT will need to have a fallow period. Good luck.
Oh, I know.
I'm cycling a 90g for my main DT right now that's going to stay fallow with just my inverts while I work to keep everyone in my existing tank healthy and primed for eradication.
I'm actually considering hitting my whole 55g with copper before moving anyone (expect inverts) and then running Cuprisorb so I can reuse the rock later.
Cutting corners here with quarantining has made a whole lot more work for me on the back end here trying to keep everything in order, keep my fish healthy, and not pollute my new tank. Sheesh....
 

Gatorj31

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Oh, I know.
I'm cycling a 90g for my main DT right now that's going to stay fallow with just my inverts while I work to keep everyone in my existing tank healthy and primed for eradication.
I'm actually considering hitting my whole 55g with copper before moving anyone (expect inverts) and then running Cuprisorb so I can reuse the rock later.
Cutting corners here with quarantining has made a whole lot more work for me on the back end here trying to keep everything in order, keep my fish healthy, and not pollute my new tank. Sheesh....
Pretty sure rock will absorb the copper. Removing copper from the water would still leave it in the rock to be leached out later
 
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