Coral candy almost dead adds to the list

KonradTO

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Hi all,
After my zoa died and my leptastrea started loosing polyps, now my candy cane coral seems going too..
I understood they were little panzers but it seem that this one is not doing too well.
My euphyllias look great for now.
Last time I checked params they were:
Alk 9.5
No3 10-15ppm
po4 0.2-0.5 ppm (I am building a fuge)
Mg and Ca as usual since I do daily small WC 2%/day
Light is at minimum setting (viparspectra at 1% W 15% B, flow moderate


20220115_142256.jpg
20220115_142207.jpg
 
AS

vetteguy53081

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This all points to water
What test kits are you using?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
Additionally, all you listed require moderate light and water flow as well as regular feeding
 
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KonradTO

KonradTO

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This all points to water
What test kits are you using?
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
I use RODI, but I never tested with a TDS meter how good is that. N and P are at zero nevertheless. I use SERA testkits for NO3 and PO4, a mix of the most famous brands for others.
Additionally, all you listed require moderate light and water flow as well as regular feeding
How do I now without a PAR meter if light is enough? At the moment I have very low light settings but as far as I understood low light should not kill candy canes or leptastreas, and not zoas especially, right?
 

vetteguy53081

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I use RODI, but I never tested with a TDS meter how good is that. N and P are at zero nevertheless. I use SERA testkits for NO3 and PO4, a mix of the most famous brands for others.

How do I now without a PAR meter if light is enough? At the moment I have very low light settings but as far as I understood low light should not kill candy canes or leptastreas, and not zoas especially, right?
Get a second opinion at LFS with water parameters as I hear mixed feelings with sera kits and false readings
 
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KonradTO

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In the leptastrea thread someone pointed out that PO4 was the reason, but I dont have space for GFO reactor. I am building a fuge but as long as I dont get an Hanna checker its hard to tell the exact amount. Shouldn't torches and hammers die first?
 
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KonradTO

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Get a second opinion at LFS with water parameters as I hear mixed feelings with sera kits and false readings
I used them for years with freshwater and they always seemed good to me.. my LFS has JBL tests which are far worse in my opinion. What parameter should be higher/lower than I read and causing such die off?
 
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Hi all,
After my zoa died and my leptastrea started loosing polyps, now my candy cane coral seems going too..
I understood they were little panzers but it seem that this one is not doing too well.
My euphyllias look great for now.
Last time I checked params they were:
Alk 9.5
No3 10-15ppm
po4 0.2-0.5 ppm (I am building a fuge)
Mg and Ca as usual since I do daily small WC 2%/day
Light is at minimum setting (viparspectra at 1% W 15% B, flow moderate


20220115_142256.jpg
20220115_142207.jpg
Also I don't know if it is visible but there is a thin layer of white "jelly" around the stalk
 
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KonradTO

KonradTO

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Ah gotcha. How long has the coral loss been going on? Any changes you can think of right before you lost the zoas and leptastrea?
No it was gradual. Zoas died around 1 month ago, leptastrea started retracting aorund 1 week ago, but the remaining polyps are fully open. The candy cane never had its polyps out since I bought it, but I left some mysis in its mouth once/week hoping it would eat during nighttime (as my favia does).
Also I think it worth to mention that I have had a quite serious GHA outbrake for the past 2-3 weeks. Since then I increased WC frequency with an AWC. I am starting to see a tiny bit of Dinos as well..its a mess :(
 

vetteguy53081

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I used them for years with freshwater and they always seemed good to me.. my LFS has JBL tests which are far worse in my opinion. What parameter should be higher/lower than I read and causing such die off?
You want ranges:
Salinity 1.025
Ph- 8.1-8.3
Ammonia <.025
Nitrate<.10
Phosphate <.04
Alk 8-11
Mag 1300
Ca-400-450

Alsp add iodine and potassium to water occasionally
 
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KonradTO

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Yes I understand ideal ranges but I need to know if what I see is caused by nutrients or something else. Can candy canes and zoas die because of 0.2 ppm phosphates? Many reefers keep nutrients this high with success, I don't understand
 
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KonradTO

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Is it possible phosphates spiked up? I don’t think at 0.2 they’d be killing corals but a spike definitely could. There’s reefers on her that have phosphates higher than that and have gorgeous corals. Anything that could of stung it too?
No it was isolated. Phosphates were higher last week (0.5ppm) but never over 1ppm, unless it happened overnight
 
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I am quite frustrated. I have GHA everywhere, dinos popping up now, leptastrea lost few polyps, and now candy cane. I cannot change too much water to avoid spikes in alk ( salt is 11 dkh, tank is 9.5).
 

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