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Gonna pre-apologize, trying to be clear may sound critical, when it isn't meant to be.is a more colorful coral actually a stronger/more survivable coral? Are we making the assumption that visual appeal equates to fitness?
I'll be blunt - don't bother with assessing coral "fitness" - we hobbyists don't care. We know the "fittest" corals, we call them "weed corals" and they are not highly desired in the hobby. Otherwise we'd all talk about how pocillopora damicornis and clove polyps are the greatest corals in the hobby.
Most hobbyists desire attractive color and growth forms, and to a lesser extent growth rate.
Growth rate can be easily measured in your setup, either by keeping them as removable frags to be pulled out and weighed, or simply by comparison to a ruler.
I would not go deeper on coral health than that. Some have argued things about skeletal density, but our corals don't have to handle tropical cyclones - so who cares if the skeleton is 30% less dense. That will never be an advantage/disadvantage to a coral in a hobby system.
General comment on experimental design. The strength of your experiment is you have two parallel systems - so you can keep all other things the same and only have the systems differ by one variable of importance.
Decide on your first variable - I think your two lighting spectrums makes the most sense as the first variable, but you could choose a different one to do first if you really want. Keep everything else the same between the two tanks - for simplicity, plumb them together for this phase to ensure shared water chemistry.
All the other parameters, it mostly doesn't matter experimentally what they are. Ca 400? 500? doesn't matter to your experiment, as long as it's the same between the tanks and mostly consistent. So no need to measure all this stuff daily. It's just needless volume of data. Too many blinking lights can distract from the actual data of interest.
Again, not trying to be critical, just trying to be clear and to the point.
I love your experiment.