Corals from Topshelf and WWC Quarantine 76 days?

Opah

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I have some corals in quarantine from top shelf and wwc. Some are not doing great and I am considering to move them over to main display. They were all dipped. They've been in QT for ~3 weeks. I'm only really concerned about fish disease making it's way into the tank. Any advice?
 

MnFish1

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The only reason you should 'need' to QT coral is if the coral was in a tank with fish in it (and of course - those fish would have to be infected). It is my understanding that neither of those companies recommend 'quarantine'. But maybe check with them specifically? Why do you think the corals are not doing well in QT? Are the 'fighting'? are the parameters o?
 

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surprised family matters GIF

76 days? Wow that's 1/5th of a year
 

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While the cohabitation with fish is one requirement for QT corals, the other is to identify and treat for pests specific to coral.This allows you to treat just the corals with a pest rather than the entire DT. It also prevents spreading the pest or allowing eggs within your DT.
Why aren’t the corals doing well in your QT? Parameters, flow, lighting?
 

Uncle99

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Lately, I have seen more livestock killed in excessive QT practices.
While not dismissing the need for QT, sometimes I think we take it way to far.
QT are stressful environments themselves.
Dip, rinse, inspect, brush, remove plug if applicable, dip, rinse and in they go for me.
I also don’t keep fish in QT more than 14 days and with no meds unless I have some clear reason to do so.
 
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Opah

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The only reason you should 'need' to QT coral is if the coral was in a tank with fish in it (and of course - those fish would have to be infected). It is my understanding that neither of those companies recommend 'quarantine'. But maybe check with them specifically? Why do you think the corals are not doing well in QT? Are the 'fighting'? are the parameters o?
Thanks. I will check. All parameters are good, only calcium is a bit low (430). I am wondering if the black box light is the problem. Getting a par meter tomorrow, curious to know my lighting situation.
 
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Opah

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All the corals are doing much better. Amazing. Thanks for all the feedback.
 

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I have some corals in quarantine from top shelf and wwc. Some are not doing great and I am considering to move them over to main display. They were all dipped. They've been in QT for ~3 weeks. I'm only really concerned about fish disease making it's way into the tank. Any advice?

Most strains of ich only need 45 days...especially if your temps are higher.

If I were to QT corals than I would be sure to have the QT tank as stable and with equipment as good as the display tank. Especially if you wanted to go 76 days. The QT should be able to stand on its own just as if it were a display tank.
 

kerbfish

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I agree, after reading the research paper, 76 days is the utmost caution to take. Likely only necessary if your tank was very cold (below tropical water temps).

the paper states the average lifecycle to be 1-2 weeks with 3-6 weeks being recommended. In some cases may take up to 11 weeks.... after 6 weeks I would say if ich didn’t die, maybe you should play the lotto. But who knows. The cysts live longer (delay hatching) in low oxygen environments. So as long as no deep sand bed, Probly good to go.
 

MnFish1

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I agree, after reading the research paper, 76 days is the utmost caution to take. Likely only necessary if your tank was very cold (below tropical water temps).

the paper states the average lifecycle to be 1-2 weeks with 3-6 weeks being recommended. In some cases may take up to 11 weeks.... after 6 weeks I would say if ich didn’t die, maybe you should play the lotto. But who knows. The cysts live longer (delay hatching) in low oxygen environments. So as long as no deep sand bed, Probly good to go.
The 'problem' is might, maybe, could be , probably (not with you - but with CI in general). The point is 76 days - seems to ensure - that the likelihood is extremely low for any CI to survive. FWIW - there are lots of areas in most tanks (that have no deep sand bed) with areas of low oxygen.
 

drawman

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I have some corals in quarantine from top shelf and wwc. Some are not doing great and I am considering to move them over to main display. They were all dipped. They've been in QT for ~3 weeks. I'm only really concerned about fish disease making it's way into the tank. Any advice?
Kind of depends on how strong of a line you want to draw really. If you want zero or close to zero risk then I would do the 76 days realizing you will take your lumps with some coral. Now a way to improve on this may be to have good quality rock from your display in the coral QT. Also you could do regular water changes on the coral QT with water from your display tank (while being careful not to cross contaminate).

I would not trust any company, absolutely including the ones you mention, to have tanks that are free of diseased fish (unless they truly don't have fish in their systems).

I'm not saying you have to do this just know the risks.
 

kerbfish

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The 'problem' is might, maybe, could be , probably (not with you - but with CI in general). The point is 76 days - seems to ensure - that the likelihood is extremely low for any CI to survive. FWIW - there are lots of areas in most tanks (that have no deep sand bed) with areas of low oxygen.
I agree...but there is always some risk....longer time obviously lower risk....if you are not super careful with every drop of water and every single thing that goes in the tank....even then...
 

MnFish1

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I agree...but there is always some risk....longer time obviously lower risk....if you are not super careful with every drop of water and every single thing that goes in the tank....even then...
Yes - this is what I was suggesting - if you're going to do it - I would do it for the 76 days as compared to guessing. I have never QT'd coral - I have never dipped coral (take that back - I did once - it RTN'd within 6 hours). I think the total key is buying from a reputable source. But - we're in total agreement otherwise
 
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Opah

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I agree, after reading the research paper, 76 days is the utmost caution to take. Likely only necessary if your tank was very cold (below tropical water temps).

the paper states the average lifecycle to be 1-2 weeks with 3-6 weeks being recommended. In some cases may take up to 11 weeks.... after 6 weeks I would say if ich didn’t die, maybe you should play the lotto. But who knows. The cysts live longer (delay hatching) in low oxygen environments. So as long as no deep sand bed, Probly good to go.
Thanks. This was very helpful.
 

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