Corals not opening, excessive growth on glass

[Tired]

As long as it's 0 TDS by the time it's turned into full RO/DI, you're good.

 

[WallyB]

I believe just RO. A micron filter cartridge , carbon cartridge , 75 gpd RO membrane cartridge, and a second carbon cartridge

Personally, if something is usasble, I prefer not to spend money if not needed.

DIY or Custom gives you flexibility, and only the features you need.

So long and your RO setup is not leaking, and it has standard filter cartridges, you can just add a DI stage.

I use Color changing DI resin, so you know it's time to replace.

One handy thing as show in photo is to get on inline TDS Meter. You can place two sensors, One after RO system, and one after DI stage. Good way to check if all is running properly.

(IN YOUR SYSTEM) :: The Membrane, or filter cartridges may need replaement, which is something most folks forget to do properly. Membrane not as often. With the TDS meter you will know.

DI Stage will just making things way better. I've tested sending tapwater through DI and it will polish TDS down to ZERO.

Just $29 from BRS.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-chloramines-upgrade-kit.html

You will need one empty cartridge
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/clear-refillable-cartridge-for-di-resin.html

and the DI Resin (Color Changing).
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin.html

Optionally (The Inline TDS Meter)
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/dual-inline-tds-meter-dm-1-hm-digital.html

Above are just examples, you might be able to get better pricing at LFS, or where ever.

If you want a whole new setup, just make sure you don't get stuck with some custom cartridge, that you get overcharged by the manufactered since you can only buy from them. The initial setup is given away to get you on their custom system. Standard stuff you can even get at home depot, etc.

I get my stuff from this place. You just select the things you need on the web site, and they build custom, and shipped to your door.

https://www.maxwaterflow.com/Aquarium_c_1420.html

All the best on what your decide.

 

[Smite]

This unit claims 92-98% TDS removal, but does not claim 0 TDS RO water. Is that an issue?

I want to clear this up for you. The rejection rate refers to the RO membrane alone. That is the workhorse of the unit in the white canister filter on most RO/DI units. Lookes like this:

Pending a few variables, the TDS entering the membrane will be reduced by 92-98% by the time it leaves that membrane and heads to your DI stage. From there, you are relying on the DI resin stage (last stage after the ro membrane) to bring that 92-98% rejection rate to zero.

So in short:
-Your sediment and carbon block filters are in-line before your RO membrane, to protect the membrane from clogging (sediment) and from chloramine/chlorine damage.
-From there you're membrane reduces the pre-filtered TDS down by it's rejection rate
-Once rejected it goes to your final stage, The DI of the "RO/DI" unit. This is what brings it down to zero TDS.

So when you start to detect TDS, you are not necessarily looking at replacing multiple filters. Take that as a sign it is time to replace your DI stage alone.

I prefer to run multiple stages of TDS meters so I can monitor what is performing correctly. For example:
My TDS is 425-475 coming into my sediment filter here in Garden Grove, CA.
Once past my Sediment, Chloramine Monster and dual carbon block canisters it is around 375 TDS entering my RO membrane at 65-70 PSI. Leaving my RO membrane, after flushing for around 10 minutes (very important for DI life) at turning on, it will settle at 7 TDS going into my final DI stages. Once my TDS leaving the DI stage hits 1, I'm changing my resin out.

TDS alone works for most but also consider the fact that some things like phosphates and silicates can become problematic below 1 TDS in our tanks. I run color changing DI resin that then feeds into a SilicaBuster Cartridge by SpectraPure because I was having issues with algae even at 0 TDS. I came to find out from a ATI ICP that tests RO/Di water along with the tank samples that I had silicates at pretty high numbers detected in my RO/DI water. So i was essentially fighting an uphill battle by doing water changes and while topping off, feeding the algae. Phophates also can appear much lower that 1 TDS and be problematic, but that doesn't appear to be the case with your tank parameters.

Hopefully that helped, and didnt confuse anything further!

 

[mdb_talon]

This unit claims 92-98% TDS removal, but does not claim 0 TDS RO water. Is that an issue?

I think @Smite answered that well. I would just add that the efficiency of an rodi system can be impacted by many factors (temperature of the water, water pressure, incoming TDS, quality of the filters/RO membrane). Many membranes will claim 99%, but that is going to under lab and ideal conditions. In my experience about 96-98% is more reasonable expectation. Again though as Smite indicated the DI stage should take out the rest.

Also I completely agree with @WallyB. If you have a standard canister size system (the vast majority use the same basic components) then there is probably little reason to buy a whole new system. Maybe add on a stage and possibly replace some filters, but a whole new system is probably not necessary unless you just want to. I also second the thought of not buying a unit that uses custom sized/designed filters. At best it limits your options for replacement (and usually at higher cost). At worst they discontinue and you are stuck with a system you cant buy replacements for. The BRS unit you posted or the Amazon one I posted both use standard sized canisters.

 

[MUTiger]

Well I have a new RO/DI unit arriving tomorrow. The corals and anemones continue to not open and I am a bit panicky. The fish continue to look good. I am dumfounded. Something happened from one day to the next. HELP!!!

 

[Idech]

I got the AQUATICLIFE Aquatic Life RO Buddie Plus DI Four Stage Reverse Osmosis Deionization Unit 50 GPD

I have the same one and I like it a lot. My first kit and it does a great job. It takes me about 1 1/4 hour to get 5 gallons.

Oups, mine is more than 50 GPD. 75 I think ?

 

[MUTiger]

It is a week later and the problem continues and is now even worse. Corals are still not opening. I have lost a birdsnest SPS and a blasto. Frogspawn, Hammer, and Duncan have been closed for a week. Acans shriveled up. Bubble tip anemone shriveled. Zoas totally closed.

I replaced my RODI unit, discarded the first hour of product water and my TDS is 0. I did a 33% water change. It may be a total coincidence, but this began with the weather getting colder and at first I questioned whether my heater was working. However, I have a Hanna pHep+ monitor and the temp is 77 degrees both with the Hanna and the heater.

I am at wits end and panicking. Please help!!!

pH 8.2
SG 1.023
Nitrate 0.25
phosphate 0
Calcium 430
dKh 7.8
Mg 1320

 

[ggNoRe]

Salinity seems low. Also, due to the temperature difference between our air and our tank water when using a refractometer the salinity of our water is typically about .02 less than what it reads. For example my refractometer reads 1.025 but when I get an ICP it is 1.023 and I keep my house at 72-73F. So there is a good chance your salinity is around 1.021 or lower depending on the temp of your house.

 

[MUTiger]

Salinity seems low. Also, due to the temperature difference between our air and our tank water when using a refractometer the salinity of our water is typically about .02 less than what it reads. For example my refractometer reads 1.025 but when I get an ICP it is 1.023 and I keep my house at 72-73F. So there is a good chance your salinity is around 1.021 or lower depending on the temp of your house.

House temp is 68F , but water temp is 77.

 

[ggNoRe]

So that would mean an even bigger difference. If I had to guess your actual salinity is probably around 1.020

 

[MUTiger]

So that would mean an even bigger difference. If I had to guess your actual salinity is probably around 1.020

Just zeroed refractometer and remeasured. SG 1.024.
should I raise it?
Would that make corals and BTA crash?

 

[ggNoRe]

Personally, I would definitely raise it to at least 1.026. 1.026 is the level of natural sea water. So it would do no harm. Then you can do an ICP test to be certain. That being said I would make that change slowly. Like .01 every 2 to 3 days to not shock the system.

 

[MUTiger]

Personally, I would definitely raise it to at least 1.026. 1.026 is the level of natural sea water. So it would do no harm. Then you can do an ICP test to be certain. That being said I would make that change slowly. Like .01 every 2 to 3 days to not shock the system.

ICP test?

 

[ggNoRe]

Have your water tested in a laboratory. I purchase the ATI ones on Amazon for about $50