Could use help!

Rsoxreefer87

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It looks as if today my Clownfish have started developing some issues and I'm not sure what it is. Any input would be great, I'm starting up the hospital tank now but not sure what direction to go.
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Rsoxreefer87

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It looks as if today my Clownfish have started developing some issues and I'm not sure what it is. Any input would be great, I'm starting up the hospital tank now but not sure what direction to go.
20220124_194729.jpg
20220124_201635.jpg

It looks as if today my Clownfish have started developing some issues and I'm not sure what it is. Any input would be great, I'm starting up the hospital tank now but not sure what direction to go.
20220124_194729.jpg
20220124_201635.jpg
20220124_201635.jpg
 

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Rsoxreefer87

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Trying to get more pictures.
 

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Jay Hemdal

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Hi. I know getting clear photos is tough - I just can't see much in your pics. White lights work better. Sometimes, a short video is easier to get than a still photo. In addition, there is background information that we need to know - water quality, how long you've had the fish, etc. These are outlined in this post:


Jay
 
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Rsoxreefer87

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I can't get a great picture but it looks as if the one ( of 4 ) is rubbing against the glass and going to the top for air, but since the lights have been off they have stayed on the bottom. Only two have spots which are similar to ich.
 
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Rsoxreefer87

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They have been in the tank since last Thursday night. The tank has been cycled for over month, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 10 ppm nitrate temp 78.7, PH 8.0 . 2 bangaii cardinals were introduced prior to clowns. Tank is 180 gallon with basement sump. Not new to reefing but never had any disease issues before. They are eating.
 
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The spots are not as visible in the white light.
 

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Supa

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I can’t see the photos well, and I’m new to the hobby but could it be flukes? Looks like I can see some larger then ick spots in one photo?
 

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Pics very fuzzy and too blue. Assure both glass and camera lens are clean.
The picture below in particular and the symptoms you mention suggest brooklynella. With brook, as you stated, the
fish may scrape up against objects, rapid respiration develops, and fish often gasp for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Very quickly the fish will become lethargic, refuse to eat, and its colors will fade.
The most noticeable symptom of Brooklynella is the heavy amount of slime that is produced by a fish that has contracted this parasite. As the disease progresses, a thick whitish mucus covers the body. This will usually start at the head and spread outward across the entire body. Skin lesions appear and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections.
Typical treatment is a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin ( quick cure is a good product) at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a FW bath or dip. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank. Also if you cant find quick cure, Ruby Rally pro will work, but take longer to take effect.
 
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Rsoxreefer87

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Thanks. A little better picture this time, maybe.
 

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Jay Hemdal

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Thanks. A little better picture this time, maybe.

The spots are a bit large to be ich, but sometimes, the size of the fish makes them look larger than they are. I think there is some parasite going on here - but I can't tell you if it is just one, or multiple types. You could move the clowns to a treatment tank, but the bangaii's have been exposed, so they could also get sick later on. I presume you will be adding corals to this tank, so that limits what you can treat with in the main tank. If there are no invertebrates in there, you might consider hyposalinity for the main tank and just treat the fish in place.

Jay
 
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I actually have corals coming in this week, so I'll be setting up a QT. I'm really leaning towards ich I think. They aren't sliming like brook the skin looks fine so I don't think it's velvet. I'm not sure how to tell if it's flukes. I just want to make sure I'm administering the proper medication.
 
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I will be putting all fish in QT. After the fallow period all fish will be in QT prior to going to the display. I fill pretty lucky that my entire stock list wasn't in the tank when this happened.
 
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Just got home and the smaller gladiator clown has stringy white poop and the spots look larger and more raised. Definitely don't think it's ich anymore.

@Jay Hemdal do you think I should just do what you have in your write and do copper then prazi? How long should the tank go fallow? I'm going to put my corals I ordered in the frag tank while i deal with this.
 

Jay Hemdal

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Just got home and the smaller gladiator clown has stringy white poop and the spots look larger and more raised. Definitely don't think it's ich anymore.

@Jay Hemdal do you think I should just do what you have in your write and do copper then prazi? How long should the tank go fallow? I'm going to put my corals I ordered in the frag tank while i deal with this.
Watch the spots - if they are in the same location on the fish after 48 hours or so, it isn't ich. Ich tomonts drop off and preproduce and then return to the fish, so the number of spots comes and goes, their location changes, but the numbers increase over time.

Stringy poop in clownfish is really common. I talk about it a bit in this article: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/mucus-the-slime-that-binds.793/

I don't think they have brook or velvet, Flukes don't cause big white spots like this. Bacterial nodules do, but there is no way to confirm that is what these are.

Copper, then prazi is the best way to go in most instances. I just can't tell you for certain.....


Jay
 
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Rsoxreefer87

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Watch the spots - if they are in the same location on the fish after 48 hours or so, it isn't ich. Ich tomonts drop off and preproduce and then return to the fish, so the number of spots comes and goes, their location changes, but the numbers increase over time.

Stringy poop in clownfish is really common. I talk about it a bit in this article: https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/mucus-the-slime-that-binds.793/

I don't think they have brook or velvet, Flukes don't cause big white spots like this. Bacterial nodules do, but there is no way to confirm that is what these are.

Copper, then prazi is the best way to go in most instances. I just can't tell you for certain.....


Jay
I appreciate your help I can't get a good picture to save my life. As of yesterday afternoon the spots haven't moved they have just become larger. I read the article and seems like the poo can be a numerous amount of things. I'm going to proceed with copper and prazi and go fallow. I am seeting up QT now and hopefully will have then in their tomorrow.
 

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@Jay Hemdal, so I got home today and all spots have disappeared. I have put them in a hospital tank but have not started treatment. I have done nothing differently water parameters match. Does this help with an explanation?
 

Jay Hemdal

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@Jay Hemdal, so I got home today and all spots have disappeared. I have put them in a hospital tank but have not started treatment. I have done nothing differently water parameters match. Does this help with an explanation?

Here is what happens: early one, the ich parasites are all about the same age. They tend to drop off the fish and form the tomont stage at the same time. This makes it look like the disease is going away, when actually, those tomonts then release new theronts that reinfect the fish a few days later, and the spots come back in greater numbers. Eventually, the life cycle becomes less in sync and the fish show spots all of the time.

One additional thing in your case: You moved the fish to a new tank, one that doesn't have any tomonts resting in the substrate. That means you have a bigger break in the life cycle. In fact, one treatment for ich is to move the fish to a third new tank and then a fourth, basically out running the tomonts. You can actually cure fish that way, but its a lot of work and stress on the fish.

Jay
 

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