Crabs 155g In-Wall Fish Room Build

[Denisk]

I sent an email to their "contact us" on their site and Steve Chow replied.

Very easy to work with and the turn around time was phenomenal for answers to questions as well as changes to the plan drawings.

Steve is a great guy. Spoke to him on many occasions. Best of luck with the build, it'll be great!

 

[revhtree]

Looking good!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Looking good!

Been following your fishroom build thread. Lots of great ideas!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Did some investigation into the walls to see what would have to move. Some electrical and some framing will be needed for the stand and to allow an open top access from the front.

It's becoming more real!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Stand Design for the 60x30x20" Main Display.

Some context for the picture:

• The "Back" of the stand is facing the main basement room and will have the bar rail (which is why the plywood is extended)
• The "Front" of the stand is facing the fish room. This is the only side that will NOT have a plywood skin. Thoughts here?
• The long runs without main supports will be done in 2x6" (Back will be skinned with 1/2" Ply and the front will not. Should I skin the top portion of the front for more rigidity?)
• All other runs will be 2x4"
• Top and all sides (minus the fishroom main opening) will be skinnned in 1/2" Plywood
• Lastly, the purple horizontal 2x4 across the "Back" will also be skinned with 1/2" ply for additional rigidity from the Teal 2x6 to the Purple 2x4".

Does anyone think the front 2x6 run of 60" without Plywood skin is too risky?? Does it need additional support? If so, I'd have to do something similar to the back due to the Rubbermaid Sump being 31" deep..

Back (Bar/Basement Side)

Front (Fishroom Side)

Bar Front - Sketch

 

[ihavecrabs]

So I am working on how to build the front opening and I'll only have about 16" of vertical space available to me. I'm also hoping not to have to use any hinges due to salt creep.

Here is what I have...

• At the top on each end, I have slot openings that are the size of a 2x4 that allow for the door piece to slide in.
• Each piece will have a wood overlap by 1" on one of the sides (to go with the moulding.
• On the bottom, I'm running a piece of PVC with a 90 degree from both ends. This will be the backstop for the bottom so the Door panels do not feel the need to slide in..

Benefits:

• No metal to rust
• Will look clean from outside
• Simple design, easy to implement.
• Entirety of the door panel can be removed which allows for more headroom (given the limited space)

Cons:

• May be tough to remote and replace
• May have to add handles to the front which will take away from the design.

From the outside corner:

From the Back

View of the full opening and design:

 

[Dodgersfan]

Definitely think you should do the corner setup for the main tank, I also think you should do the porthole idea into the 48x24 tank. I don't think you need to worry too much about seeing a messy fish room through it, at 12" max diameter (due to height of tank) the porthole is presumably only really going to be visible from behind the bar and the first seat there.... Your fish room is probably going to be the single most expensive and time consuming Project in the entire basement, best to make sure you can admire it from as many angles and places as possible!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Definitely think you should do the corner setup for the main tank, I also think you should do the porthole idea into the 48x24 tank. I don't think you need to worry too much about seeing a messy fish room through it, at 12" max diameter (due to height of tank) the porthole is presumably only really going to be visible from behind the bar and the first seat there.... Your fish room is probably going to be the single most expensive and time consuming Project in the entire basement, best to make sure you can admire it from as many angles and places as possible!

I like the port hole idea!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Plumbing supplies are in!

This gate valve is huge!

 

[ihavecrabs]

So I am working on how to build the front opening and I'll only have about 16" of vertical space available to me. I'm also hoping not to have to use any hinges due to salt creep.

Here is what I have...

• At the top on each end, I have slot openings that are the size of a 2x4 that allow for the door piece to slide in.
• Each piece will have a wood overlap by 1" on one of the sides (to go with the moulding.
• On the bottom, I'm running a piece of PVC with a 90 degree from both ends. This will be the backstop for the bottom so the Door panels do not feel the need to slide in..

Benefits:

• No metal to rust
• Will look clean from outside
• Simple design, easy to implement.
• Entirety of the door panel can be removed which allows for more headroom (given the limited space)

Cons:

• May be tough to remote and replace
• May have to add handles to the front which will take away from the design.

From the outside corner:

From the Back

View of the full opening and design:

#reefsquad @reefsquad any one you can recommend to look at post 26 and provide some feedback on DIY in-wall front access design? TIA

 

[ihavecrabs]

QT/Hospital, coral QT, and TTM tanks are in. Also heaters and Ammonia badges.

Rock is done with the first week of cycling in a brute container also.

 

[jsker]

I would say that you have a great design

 

[ihavecrabs]

I would say that you have a great design

We'll see if my carpentry skills agree with you!

 

[Crabs McJones]

We'll see if my carpentry skills agree with you!

Can't be any worse than me, my carpentry skills include making a mess on the carpet ;Joyful

 

[ihavecrabs]

Can't be any worse than me, my carpentry skills include making a mess on the carpet ;Joyful

That was the last time I used a marineland stand (first tank). After that I will always build my stand to catch and contain liquid and it saved me a lot over the years!!

 

[ihavecrabs]

Dry Rock is still cycling.

I need to get into some of my boxes and find a phosphate test kit to see how much this rock will leach. Then determine mitigation steps...

 

[ihavecrabs]

Anxiously waiting for a call to deliver the tank.. LTL shipping company picked it up on Monday in California... long drive to IL I suppose!

Last night I got an hour to myself and decided to do the rest of the demolition of the shelves and counters in the fish room.

 

[AlexG]

So I am working on how to build the front opening and I'll only have about 16" of vertical space available to me. I'm also hoping not to have to use any hinges due to salt creep.

Here is what I have...

• At the top on each end, I have slot openings that are the size of a 2x4 that allow for the door piece to slide in.
• Each piece will have a wood overlap by 1" on one of the sides (to go with the moulding.
• On the bottom, I'm running a piece of PVC with a 90 degree from both ends. This will be the backstop for the bottom so the Door panels do not feel the need to slide in..

Benefits:

• No metal to rust
• Will look clean from outside
• Simple design, easy to implement.
• Entirety of the door panel can be removed which allows for more headroom (given the limited space)

Cons:

• May be tough to remote and replace
• May have to add handles to the front which will take away from the design.

From the outside corner:

From the Back

View of the full opening and design:

I think that your idea for the front access panels will work while not compromising access. I would just account for some wood expansion and contraction so I would not make the slide in piece for the overlap a tight fit. I had a similar dilemma on how to attach my canopy sections without compromising access and I finally decided on suspending my canopy sections from aluminum hangers.

 

[ihavecrabs]

I think that your idea for the front access panels will work while not compromising access. I would just account for some wood expansion and contraction so I would not make the slide in piece for the overlap a tight fit. I had a similar dilemma on how to attach my canopy sections without compromising access and I finally decided on suspending my canopy sections from aluminum hangers.

Appreciate the feedback.

Im also thinking of sealing all the wood that is around or above the tank to ensure I don't have any moisture issues with the wood. I've done the same with sump areas on previous stands.

 

[AlexG]

Appreciate the feedback.

Im also thinking of sealing all the wood that is around or above the tank to ensure I don't have any moisture issues with the wood. I've done the same with sump areas on previous stands.

I put min 2 coats of Killz oderless oil-based primer/sealer on all of the wood used to build my system.