Crab's is about ready to throw in the towel.

[krbshappy71]

I wish I could help! I'm sorry this is going on. Don't use it for a bearded dragon tank, they eat way too much and poop even more. Seriously wishing you a quick turn around on this tank!

 

[Silent]

I didn't notice your tank temp. What is it? Don't want to leave a stone unturned ya know.

 

[Iván Olalla]

Wait for ICP results...but you´ll hate yourself in a few months even if you get the prettiest bearded dragon

 

[Crabs McJones]

2 weeks? I use ICP-analysis... send Monday, have results Friday. Much better.
Could try to eliminate some variables by setting up a temporary “quarantine” tank and see how that does.

Only issue with that is everything is established and encrusted. I'd have to brake everything off. Montipora wouldn't stand a chance.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Temperature sits between 78 and 79 according to my Apex. and I have a digital thermometer to calibrate that confirms it.

 

[SeaDweller]

Numbers look good. But, FWIW I just had a bad batch of Hanna reagent. Mine would read Zero.. definitely not possible as I am running a CaRx.
My 1st thought is ALK burn. Red Sea mixes up pretty high. Coming from Fritz (another discussion for another thread) I would say a jump in Alkalinity may be the issue. I know you double checked with Salifert, but nothing is outside the realm of possibility.
Also, depending on your water source, summer months often lead to weird algae outbreaks. I'd also check for choloramines. If your municipality changes from cholorine to choloramines recently, not having the correct carbon blocks could also add to the issue.
Best of luck.. know that you aren't alone.. we have ALL been there at least once.......

he's using RS blue, and the alk mixes up at about 8.5 IME with it.

 

[TheHarold]

Wait for ICP results...but you´ll hate yourself in a few months even if you get the prettiest bearded dragon

Ha! They’re cute though. And no ******* water changes!!!!!!!!

Could always ditch SPS. Go shrooms, torches, etc.

 

[Crabs McJones]

By the way everyone, I cannot put into words to express how thankful I am at the amount of responses i'm getting of people trying to help. You all are what makes R2R what it is!

 

[NeverlosT]

Definitely run some carbon in the tank.
Definitely test your RODI water for remaining chloramines (or just add another stage of chloramine filter just in case).
Run some chemisorb just for kicks.
Check what your lights are putting out, it sounds like something is burning your acros, and that almost all the time is ALK swing or lighting shock.
Bring your water to an LFS and have them double check every test (then again ICP will get you this too).

DONT give up. Tanks go through hard times now and then, but they come back stronger. Bank corals with buddies to prepare for these times, and then figure out the cause, learn from it, share it, and come back smarter and stronger.

I think Fritz and Red sea both mix up with high alk (like 11?) which would mean that every time you do a WC, especially a big one, you are probably swinging your alk if your tank resides at 8-9.

If you want a salt closer to 8dKh, run fauna marin reef pro. I think thats what mine mixes at.

Good luck!

 

[Mortie31]

Anywhere that could be causing hydrogen sulphate to form?

 

[Charlie’s Frags]

The only stn episode I’ve had in the last year came when I tried Red Sea blue to bring my elevated calcium down. I went back to my tropic Marin pro and put the stn pieces in my frag tank and started dosing 4 mls of witch hazel/25g everyday and the stn stopped 4 or 5 days later. They are now back in the display and tissue is growing back over the areas of recession.

 

[Mhart032]

Possible stray voltage in the tank? ive seen it happen, but prob wouldn't explain the algae. but could be considered on the SPS being finicky and bleaching or RTNing that i have seen before.

 

[Waterislife]

Hi everyone.
I'm posting this in a last ditch effort to figure out what in the world is going on with my tank. As most of you know I tried switching salts from Fritz to Red Sea Blue Bucket and changed out all my RO/DI filters under suspicion there was contamination or the filters were past exhaustion. I've done well over 125 gallons worth of water changes and I can't seem to get any improvement.
My tri color is stn'ing from the tips, most of my montipora are dying or dead, and now my culture shock is loosing tissue at the tips. I also have cyanobacteria and hair algae taking over.
I have an ICP test coming tomorrow that i'm going to send out, but by the time the results come in everything will likely be dead.
So here's where I'm at.
Salinity is 1.026 (double and triple checked)
Alk has been stable between 8.0 and 8.5 (checked with both salifert and hannah)
Calcium has been between 420-450
Mag 1400
Nitrate is floating around 10
Phosphate is around .05
Nothing has changed in lighting, been running two Hydra 26's on the AB+ schedule with 4 t5's that are only 3 months old.
I've checked every piece of equipment for rusting. Checked stray voltage. Nothing out of the ordinary that I can see.
All RO filters, including membranes, and both DI canisters were changed out prior to the 125 gallon change out. Even before that though I was getting 0 TDS water.
I've pitched my saltwater mixing station and went back to my 6 gallon food grade buckets I used before moving.

I'm at wits end and ready to throw in the towel!
Please talk me out of it Otherwise the 75 is going to be turned into a nice Bearded Dragon enclosure

Hi everyone.
I'm posting this in a last ditch effort to figure out what in the world is going on with my tank. As most of you know I tried switching salts from Fritz to Red Sea Blue Bucket and changed out all my RO/DI filters under suspicion there was contamination or the filters were past exhaustion. I've done well over 125 gallons worth of water changes and I can't seem to get any improvement.
My tri color is stn'ing from the tips, most of my montipora are dying or dead, and now my culture shock is loosing tissue at the tips. I also have cyanobacteria and hair algae taking over.
I have an ICP test coming tomorrow that i'm going to send out, but by the time the results come in everything will likely be dead.
So here's where I'm at.
Salinity is 1.026 (double and triple checked)
Alk has been stable between 8.0 and 8.5 (checked with both salifert and hannah)
Calcium has been between 420-450
Mag 1400
Nitrate is floating around 10
Phosphate is around .05
Nothing has changed in lighting, been running two Hydra 26's on the AB+ schedule with 4 t5's that are only 3 months old.
I've checked every piece of equipment for rusting. Checked stray voltage. Nothing out of the ordinary that I can see.
All RO filters, including membranes, and both DI canisters were changed out prior to the 125 gallon change out. Even before that though I was getting 0 TDS water.
I've pitched my saltwater mixing station and went back to my 6 gallon food grade buckets I used before moving.

I'm at wits end and ready to throw in the towel!
Please talk me out of it Otherwise the 75 is going to be turned into a nice Bearded Dragon enclosure

That's alot of light, I would think that the 26's would take care of it or just the T5s, I only run 2 primes over my 75

 

[tripdad]

Geez, wish I was closer as I could help you out by taking back ups of your corals for you. I just went thru this about a year ago, hang in there. I did a max scrubbing/tear apart and clean. No joy so I did a reboot. I hope you can avoid that. Best of luck to you.

 

[Silent]

I have heard of a tank getting clean too fast and the light burned the coral. Could all this algae be sucking up particulates making your water too clear so to speak?

 

[Crabs McJones]

That's alot of light, I would think that the 26's would take care of it or just the T5s, I only run 2 primes over my 75

Yes, but up until a few weeks ago everything was growing and colorful and looking amazing. No changes in lighting have been made before this happened.

 

[motortrendz]

I know this may sound dumb. But raise your po4 to .10-.15, that may help slow down the decay, a browned coral is better than a dead one until we figure the problem...I'd even raise the nitrates a bit and definitly run some carbon incase it's a toxin of some sort....

not sure what kind of lights your using and at what intensity and duration? Maybe cut back a little on intensity.

You didnt mention a skimmer on your nutrient export?

Have you checked all your pumps for cracks(stray voltage), rust (heavy metals)

what kind of heater do you use? Titanium or glass?
Any dead fish lately? Anything new? U said you have a water softner? is it a well or city water supply?Do you have naturally hard water? High iron content?

Sorry for the million questions, and not sure if they were all answered just trying to help with a fresh look

 

[LadyMac]

Sounds almost like you’re going back through the new tank syndrome with the algae and such.

I’m not a sw guru, but I do know some about fresh and what I would do. First thing, I’d look to chlorine it chloramines. While I know you said you use the RODI, it’s the time of year that water companies flush their systems so maybe your unit isn’t catching it all. Get a test for that. Also call your water company. Ask if they have done any major cleaning etc and ask for the report.

Please don’t give up, a lot of people look up to you here.

Also, get a beardie but get a different enclosure

 

[Waterislife]

Yes, but up until a few weeks ago everything was growing and colorful and looking amazing. No changes in lighting have been made before this happened.

Sometime these systems have a delayed reactions, subtle unnoticed changes result to bigger issues

 

[piranhaman00]

I would think something is leaking in somewhere. Hopefully ICP comes back sooner.