That's a debatable subject, even amongst those of us who regularly contribute to the fish disease forum. I personally prefer chelated copper (e.g. Coppersafe, Copper Power) for most fish (including wrasses). However, I've seen others be just as successful using ionic copper (Cupramine) and even copper sulfate pentahydrate - which is still often used by academics & researchers.
Cupramine vs copper safe
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That's a debatable subject, even amongst those of us who regularly contribute to the fish disease forum. I personally prefer chelated copper (e.g. Coppersafe, Copper Power) for most fish (including wrasses). However, I've seen others be just as successful using ionic copper (Cupramine) and even copper sulfate pentahydrate - which is still often used by academics & researchers.
Lindsay1126
Active Member
So I will resurrect this thread. I have my 29 gallon completely cycled and I have been researching quarantine procedures and I am starting to think doing a FW or MB dip then a copper treatment would be best. I am hoping to keep ich and such out of my DT in the first place (I know I know, easier said than done). So I have read so many conflicting ideas on coppersafe vs cupramine. I just wanted to see what you thought would be best as a quarantine procedure. I know MV and Brooks acts much more quickly than ich and copper isn't even the best (or a) treatment for those, it sucks that you need a script for the CP. If we had access to that, it would be much easier. Do tangs do well with this type of procedure? Thanks.
A FW dip and/or chemical bath is only helpful if you are dealing with "surface" parasites or worms. Both velvet & brook are surface parasites. However, if the fish has neither then a FW dip just adds undo stress upon the fish. So, I only use a FW dip if I'm reasonably sure the fish has velvet/brook or as a diagnostic tool to confirm the presence of flukes. More info: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/freshwater-dip.248898/
Edit: Just saw you have a seahorse as your avatar pic. You probably already know this, but you never want to use copper on a seahorse/pipefish (or any scaleless fish for that matter.) In fact, ponies are tolerant of very few meds/chemicals.
Lindsay1126
Active Member
Thank you, but no I don’t or won’t have sea horses (not until I have much more experience). I just love them.
Good point about the stress, then do to that note is the copper treatment the same?
Good point about the stress, then do to that note is the copper treatment the same?
Lindsay1126
Active Member
I mean as a safety procedure while in quarantine, even if they don’t show signs of ich.
Lindsay1126
Active Member
Never mind, I think I will stick to your option A. One quick off topic question. You recommend Prazipro treatment, on the list of medications to have sticky, I see that API general cure get rid of more, is it more harsh on the fish? Trying to figure out why that is not used instead. I am going today and buying your list of recommended basics. Thanks!
ETA: I just want to say, thank you for tips on setting up the quarantine! That is what I used to set up mine.
29 gallon, aquaclear 70, hood and lights (picked up off CL), PVC pipe tubes, elbows and such, ammonia alert, 150 watt heater. I did let my girls pick some cheap decorations to go in there, bc that way they are not trying to put sponge bob or Ariel in my DT.
ETA: I just want to say, thank you for tips on setting up the quarantine! That is what I used to set up mine.
29 gallon, aquaclear 70, hood and lights (picked up off CL), PVC pipe tubes, elbows and such, ammonia alert, 150 watt heater. I did let my girls pick some cheap decorations to go in there, bc that way they are not trying to put sponge bob or Ariel in my DT
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Wondered this myself recently
Changed my mind to copper safe. thank you every one for sharing
For what it's worth, I've been using General Cure and Coppersafe lately . . .
~Bruce
~Bruce
I was about to get general cute but prazi seemed to be the more frequently mentioned
I Also got metro and focus tho so maybe once copper treatment is done I can feed the metro just to be on the safe side?
Yet it’s not as often talked about as much as prazipro or metro. Does the administration difference benefit one method more then the other?
Merry Christmas everyone
Okay I’m just stocking up for the first time I don’t have any experience in medicating saltwater fish so I stocked up on
Coppersafe
API test (for now)
Prazipro
Seachem’s metro and focus
Ammonia badge
Mr Tim’s one and only live bacteria
Going to use a bio cube 29g to QT 7 small fish
Also I will be leaving my DT fallow
I’m getting a biota manderin for Christmas but I’m unable to copper cure him. what should I do in this situation I do have a 15g sump that’s not in use. I could use this for an other QT. but I haven’t read up on how to QT a mandarin just yet. Been to busy researching Setting up a QT and what meds to buy.
Coppersafe
API test (for now)
Prazipro
Seachem’s metro and focus
Ammonia badge
Mr Tim’s one and only live bacteria
Going to use a bio cube 29g to QT 7 small fish
Also I will be leaving my DT fallow
I’m getting a biota manderin for Christmas but I’m unable to copper cure him. what should I do in this situation I do have a 15g sump that’s not in use. I could use this for an other QT. but I haven’t read up on how to QT a mandarin just yet. Been to busy researching Setting up a QT and what meds to buy.
Quarantining mandarins is a challenge, not only because they don't do well in copper, but because it's a challenge to get them onto a diet of prepared foods. You can use TTM (Tank Transfer Method) to fend off ich, or CP to cover both ich and velvet - but CP will also eliminate the copepods and amphipods which the mandarins feed on.
Mandarins have the reputation of being resistant to parasites like ich and velvet, so some folks introduce them directly to their displays. This isn't recommended, because they _can_ carry the diseases in their gills.
Your list of supplies looks good, and will cover the basics. Eventually, you may also wish to source some antibiotics in case of need.
~Bruce
Mandarins have the reputation of being resistant to parasites like ich and velvet, so some folks introduce them directly to their displays. This isn't recommended, because they _can_ carry the diseases in their gills.
Your list of supplies looks good, and will cover the basics. Eventually, you may also wish to source some antibiotics in case of need.
~Bruce
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