CuzzA's 40 Breeder Display & 40 Breeder Sump | True All In One | Mixed Reef Tank Build | Heavy Automation

[2mk]

So, I got the UV Steriler squared away and dialed in. Not as clean of an install as the old one, but we're after function, not from.

The diatom bloom persists, but I don't think it will be all that drastic as I've been running GFO since I turned the system on. The hitch hiker crab and snail are still doing their thing.

I added a fish on Sunday. A nice healthy Pueple Firefish that's been doing well at the LFS for two weeks. He has taken well to his final home and was immediately eating. I am undecided on what fish to add next as most of my choices require the tank to be more mature. Perhaps a pair of captive bred Bangaii Cardinals.

I ordered some reef soup from Aquaculture Nursery Farms https://www.aquaculturenurseryfarms.com/live-plankton/copepods/blends/reef-soup-6-types/ here in Florida. It should be here tomorrow and so that should be a good start to my pod population. I don't have a refugium, just another thing to maintain, but I do have those two pod hotels I made under the skimmer and under the filter roller. Hopefully I'll get a good breeding population going in there. I am also developing a pretty nifty automatic Artemia in tank hatch and feeder. I have thought about this challenge for years and finally think I have found the perfect solution. Stay tuned, parts are in route.

Finally, I measured my water for the first time tonight. I never bothered with ammonia or nitrite, experience has taught me those two test kits end up being a waste of money. Slow and steady is all that is required. One two inch fish in 50+ gallons of water will not produce any measurable ammonia. Not to mention the live sand and small bottle of bacteria were added which would easily consume any waste from one fish.

Anyway, back to my results. They look pretty spot on. I was actually quite surprised and happy with the po4 level considering this was Pukani rock (which was sadly ripped from live reefs, years before I knew any better) and sat growing all sorts of organics on the side of the house. The acid bath and bleach really does go a long way to prepare the rock for use.

Alkalinity is okay, could be higher, but I only used regular Instant Ocean Sea Salt to fill the tank. Bezos had a sale and so I got two bags for one. I will probably be switching to Tropic Marin Pro-Reef going forward.

It also dawned on me that I have not shared a good picture of the display so perhaps tomorrow I'll update the thread with one.

Have you looked at LiveAquara for salt? Instant Ocean Salt at LiveAquaria is cheapest when they have those buy $150 and get $20 coupons (or similar). That is when I stock up whenever they has such a coupon usually appearing during the summer time.

 

[SliceGolfer]

This build rocks! You have thoroughly thought through each device, function, and purpose of everything going into this build. Great job sir, great job!

I’m laughing a little inside at the irony of how much $$$ spent to support like $90 worth of two 40g aquariums

 

[CuzzA]

I assume that you got the WC programmed to go off when Apex notify you of on water mixing. Is the AA WC programmed to come on only after mixing?

Curious why you have temp probe & heater mounted in the WC reservoir?
I assume you Salinity probe is for reading mixed water salinity level.

Correct. If there was a way to expand the I/O ports without adding a PM module I would have done it, but I believe the only way to add more breakout boxes is with either a PM1 or PM2 and since I needed more than six switches, adding the PM2 seemed like the logical choice. I bought it used and it came with the probes. The readings off the probes are more for reference and don't control anything with the exception of temp. Conductivity is set to only tell me if there's a big swing, like a leaking RODI valve. The temp probe has more utility because although I am just doing .5 gallon per day auto water changes, there may will come a time when I need to do a full 15+ gallon water change. For example, something spills, dies or the water is straight up off. In that situation I want the ability to bring the water to the right temp. Right now it's no issue, but in the winter I don't go cra$y with heating my home and the water change water will likely be too cold for a big water change.

 

[CuzzA]

This build rocks! You have thoroughly thought through each device, function, and purpose of everything going into this build. Great job sir, great job!

I’m laughing a little inside at the irony of how much $$$ spent to support like $90 worth of two 40g aquariums

Haha... Thank you.

Yes, I suppose I could have paid a couple grand for a custom built tank and sump to justify the guts of the build, perhaps this build is like a middle finger to the crazy prices tank builders charge. I got quotes before I started this project and rolled my eyes.

To be honest I really wanted a ~100 gallon 60x24x18-20 inch tank, but no one makes a production tank in that size. I think DSA used to. I am no longer a fan of a tank over 20" tall. Too much of a hassle to do work and have the display at eye level. Also, it seems the fad is center overflows with integrated black backgrounds which would not work with the look I was going for. Petco's sale led to an impulse decision. Nevertheless, stands are easy to build and everything with the exception of the skimmer can be scaled to a larger tank, so if I get an itch to go bigger again it will be a relatively easy swap. Plus less wear and tear on my equipment right now. My COR-15 pump is running at around 13%. This system is so quite the only thing I can hear is a little bit of water going through the overflow weir.

Thanks again for the acknowledgment.

 

[SliceGolfer]

I totally agree. I’m planning a larger build myself and was fortunate to find a new 80 gallon star fire tank for $200. Otherwise I would have bought a 75g during the last Petco sale.

Good luck on the build, following along!

 

[2mk]

Correct. If there was a way to expand the I/O ports without adding a PM module I would have done it, but I believe the only way to add more breakout boxes is with either a PM1 or PM2 and since I needed more than six switches, adding the PM2 seemed like the logical choice. I bought it used and it came with the probes. The readings off the probes are more for reference and don't control anything with the exception of temp. Conductivity is set to only tell me if there's a big swing, like a leaking RODI valve. The temp probe has more utility because although I am just doing .5 gallon per day auto water changes, there may will come a time when I need to do a full 15+ gallon water change. For example, something spills, dies or the water is straight up off. In that situation I want the ability to bring the water to the right temp. Right now it's no issue, but in the winter I don't go cra$y with heating my home and the water change water will likely be too cold for a big water change.

Heating the water never crossed my mind. But as far as heating the water, I have more of a problem with cooling the water by bringing it inside for next morning water change due to the water is stored outdoors especially during the summer months ( I live in South Florida). That is all before I started using a DOS for AWC during the last 5 months. It really doesn't matter now since the change takes place by the drops. But, I still do take the water in before adding to my reservoir. FYI, I do not RODI, I use underground well water all this time I kept the salt tank for 6 someting years now. There was no problem during the winter months. Do you live in North Florida where winters are actually cold at times?

 

[CuzzA]

Heating the water never crossed my mind. But as far as heating the water, I have more of a problem with cooling the water by bringing it inside for next morning water change due to the water is stored outdoors especially during the summer months ( I live in South Florida). That is all before I started using a DOS for AWC during the last 5 months. It really doesn't matter now since the change takes place by the drops. But, I still do take the water in before adding to my reservoir. FYI, I do not RODI, I use underground well water all this time I kept the salt tank for 6 someting years now. There was no problem during the winter months. Do you live in North Florida where winters are actually cold at times?

I'm in Tampa Bay. Tapping the aquifer here would be awesome as I'd really only have sulfur to filter out. I looked into a deep well and it would set me back about $4k. But I quit watering and fertilizing and pesticidzing the lawn because I think it's dumb to grow a weed that serves no purpose but to look pretty, yet keeping it alive is killing our reefs. So I'm glad I didn't pull the trigger on that project and $4k would be nuts just for a fish tank. But if my home had a deep well I'd do the same. Though I'd have a lab verify what's in the water every year

 

[2mk]

I'm in Tampa Bay. Tapping the aquifer here would be awesome as I'd really only have sulfur to filter out. I looked into a deep well and it would set me back about $4k. But I quit watering and fertilizing and pesticidzing the lawn because I think it's dumb to grow a weed that serves no purpose but to look pretty, yet keeping it alive is killing our reefs. So I'm glad I didn't pull the trigger on that project and $4k would be nuts just for a fish tank. But if my home had a deep well I'd do the same. Though I'd have a lab verify what's in the water every year

Whoooa $4K? How long was the quote ago? We (me and my Dad) had one done some 20 plus years ago, (don't know if it is called a deep well. It's 30 some plus feet deep), for about $200 just to drill it. Permitting was an extra $100 or $150. Everything else was done by ourselves. We bought a Goulds 3/4 hp Well Jet pump for about $200 at the time. Now they cost about $500 (Just replaced one due to corrosion). We did all the plumbing ourselves. The pump and plumbing sits right on top of the Artisan well pipe head. It was done not for the lawn, but for keeping Koi in the yard to save on water cost and not having de-chlor tap water which is impossible for the amount of water needed for a mini pond.

As far as sulfur goes, I have no idea about it since I have been using it since it is in place. I wonder if that has anything to do with me not too successfull in keeping certain kinds of corals, or has to do with something else since I am still not really experienced in the hobby. Is there a way to test for sulfur without much ado? One thing I know is the unfiltered well water seems to have a high content of calcium I think due to mineral deposits on my water containers walls. Maybe filtering it with a RODI system is not a bad idea, but not without incurring a lot of $$$ since it was never set up for drinking in the first place. FYI, we do not drink, water nor fertilize our lawn either. Don't know if any of the neighbors do it.

 

[CuzzA]

Whoooa $4K? How long was the quote ago? We (me and my Dad) had one done some 20 plus years ago, (don't know if it is called a deep well. It's 30 some plus feet deep), for about $200 just to drill it. Permitting was an extra $100 or $150. Everything else was done by ourselves. We bought a Goulds 3/4 hp Well Jet pump for about $200 at the time. Now they cost about $500 (Just replaced one due to corrosion). We did all the plumbing ourselves. The pump and plumbing sits right on top of the Artisan well pipe head. It was done not for the lawn, but for keeping Koi in the yard to save on water cost and not having de-chlor tap water which is impossible for the amount of water needed for a mini pond.

As far as sulfur goes, I have no idea about it since I have been using it since it is in place. I wonder if that has anything to do with me not too successfull in keeping certain kinds of corals, or has to do with something else since I am still not really experienced in the hobby. Is there a way to test for sulfur without much ado? One thing I know is the unfiltered well water seems to have a high content of calcium I think due to mineral deposits on my water containers walls. Maybe filtering it with a RODI system is not a bad idea, but not without incurring a lot of $$$ since it was never set up for drinking in the first place. FYI, we do not drink, water nor fertilize our lawn either. Don't know if any of the neighbors do it.

You have a shallow well. I would have your water tested before using it in your tank. It's just not deep enough to filter out all of the contaminants and nutrients from neighbors and runoff. I suspect you're going to be building up something in your system that you don't want.

If the water is fairly clean an RODI system would have minimal on going cost filter and media replacement compared to using city water that burns though carbon blocks. If your water is hard, which I'm sure it is because it's Florida, a water softener will fix that and increase the longevity of your appliances and prevent calcium scale from building up. Though I don't think you can justify the cost for one on a well that you don't use for the house.

A deep well taps the Florida aquifer. Where I live it's about 100 feet deep. That water is mostly pure but sometimes has pockets where sulfur builds up. That's why sometimes you smell rotten eggs when people are irrigating their lawn.

The $4k quote was to drill $30/ foot and then add in the pumps, etc.

 

[2mk]

You have a shallow well. I would have your water tested before using it in your tank. It's just not deep enough to filter out all of the contaminants and nutrients from neighbors and runoff. I suspect you're going to be building up something in your system that you don't want.

If the water is fairly clean an RODI system would have minimal on going cost filter and media replacement compared to using city water that burns though carbon blocks. If your water is hard, which I'm sure it is because it's Florida, a water softener will fix that and increase the longevity of your appliances and prevent calcium scale from building up. Though I don't think you can justify the cost for one on a well that you don't use for the house.

A deep well taps the Florida aquifer. Where I live it's about 100 feet deep. That water is mostly pure but sometimes has pockets where sulfur builds up. That's why sometimes you smell rotten eggs when people are irrigating their lawn.

The $4k quote was to drill $30/ foot and then add in the pumps, etc.

Thanks for the info. 100ft is really deep. Maybe I should start using RODI city water instead. That might be a better option. Or have my water tested. Any suggestions how / where I can get the well water tested?

We had a friend once drilled a well too who lives on Miami Beach backing a waterway. The water continuously smells like rotten egg no matter how long you turn the pump on. Not to mention it is not usable at all. It just stinks really really bad. So that is Sulphur. They were all flabbergested about the phenomenon because no one else has the problem. Even the well driller had no clue why.

 

[2mk]

.

 

[CuzzA]

Thanks for the info. 100ft is really deep. Maybe I should start using RODI city water instead. That might be a better option. Or have my water tested. Any suggestions how / where I can get the well water tested?

We had a friend once drilled a well too who lives on Miami Beach backing a waterway. The water continuously smells like rotten egg no matter how long you turn the pump on. It just stinks really really bad. So that is Sulphur. They were all flabbergested about the phenomenon because no one else has the problem. Even the well driller had no clue why.

Here's the thing, your tank is humming along and all is well. Before you know it you've got a few thousand dollars in livestock, meanwhile your neighbor Joe Blow is dumping motor oil in his lawn, the other neighbor has been dumping gallons of fertilizer and pesticides on his lawn and eventually all of that makes its way into your well, and all of the sudden everything starts dying. Is it worth the risk? I don't know. That scenario may never play out. But an RODI system is cheap insurance. You can buy the refurbished Spectrapure units for around a $100 and ongoing annual cost will be less than $50. I'd say that's pretty cheap insurance. Remember, as reefing hobbyists, our number one job is water managers. Plain and simple. I firmly believe that in order to be successful in this hobby you have to be really good at understanding water chemistry and filtration. The rest takes care of itself.

As for a lab water test. They can be bought from a number of sources including Amazon, but after you lay out the $50 for the test you're already half way to buying an RODI unit where it really doesn't matter if the source water is tainted a bit because the system will take care of it.

 

[2mk]

Here's the thing, your tank is humming along and all is well. Before you know it you've got a few thousand dollars in livestock, meanwhile your neighbor Joe Blow is dumping motor oil in his lawn, the other neighbor has been dumping gallons of fertilizer and pesticides on his lawn and eventually all of that makes its way into your well, and all of the sudden everything starts dying. Is it worth the risk? I don't know. That scenario may never play out. But an RODI system is cheap insurance. You can buy the refurbished Spectrapure units for around a $100 and ongoing annual cost will be less than $50. I'd say that's pretty cheap insurance. Remember, as reefing hobbyists, our number one job is water managers. Plain and simple. I firmly believe that in order to be successful in this hobby you have to be really good at understanding water chemistry and filtration. The rest takes care of itself.

As for a lab water test. They can be bought from a number of sources including Amazon, but after you lay out the $50 for the test you're already half way to buying an RODI unit where it really doesn't matter if the source water is tainted a bit because the system will take care of it.

Thanks again. You are right. I will look into getting a RODI then. I thought they cost a lot more since I never really see the need for it.

By the way, we have gone off topic. How is your build coming along? Any new developments? (Maybe you can share a bit on you RODI system in pictures as it is part of your system even though it is not part of your build. They will give any newbee who stumbles on your thread more knowledge on what a proper setup should be. So far, your build is really conprehensive and I learned a lot from it.)

 

[CuzzA]

Thanks again. You are right. I will look into getting a RODI then. I thought they cost a lot more since I never really see the need for it.

By the way, we have gone off topic. How is your build coming along? Any new developments? (Maybe you can share a bit on you RODI system in pictures as it is part of your system even though it is not part of your build. They will give any newbee who stumbles on your thread more knowledge on what a proper setup should be. So far, your build is really conprehensive and I learned a lot from it.)

Thanks. I plan on putting together a video series going through every aspect of my system and my reasoning behind it. Which I will post here. There's a million ways to fillet this fish, but we all learn from each other.

 

[2mk]

Thanks. I plan on putting together a video series going through every aspect of my system and my reasoning behind it. Which I will post here. There's a million ways to fillet this fish, but we all learn from each other.

I am looking forward to that!

 

[CuzzA]

I am looking forward to that!

A quick look on Spectrapure's website reveals they have refurbed units in stock. Add an auto shut off and you're good to go. Not to mention this comes with replacement filters. That's a great deal. https://www.spectrapure.com/product/rebuilt-maxpure-mpdi-90-gpd-rodi-system-mpdi-90-a/

 

[Devaji]

Dude this build is amazing! I do love a good 40br build. I think there the best bank for your buck tank out there. the the foot print is so nice I am a big fan for sure.

the details of this build blow my mind. I need some of your wire management and building skills so some how rub off on me...lol

 

[CuzzA]

Dude this build is amazing! I do love a good 40br build. I think there the best bank for your buck tank out there. the the foot print is so nice I am a big fan for sure.

the details of this build blow my mind. I need some of your wire management and building skills so some how rub off on me...lol

Thanks, man.

Ahh the wires!!! There's definitely something to be said about having a fish room. Trying to pack all of this into a 36x18 footprint with no visible equipment in the tank was not without a challenge. I haven't had to pull a piece of equipment yet, so I'm hoping when the time comes it will go smooth, unlike the cob web of wires I've dealt with on past tanks.

 

[Devaji]

Thanks, man.

Ahh the wires!!! There's definitely something to be said about having a fish room. Trying to pack all of this into a 36x18 footprint with no visible equipment in the tank was not without a challenge. I haven't had to pull a piece of equipment yet, so I'm hoping when the time comes it will go smooth, unlike the cob web of wires I've dealt with on past tanks.

yeah wire management is my nemeses...

do did one heck of a job!

 

[2mk]

Thanks. I plan on putting together a video series going through every aspect of my system and my reasoning behind it. Which I will post here. There's a million ways to fillet this fish, but we all learn from each other.

I am looking forward to that!

A quick look on Spectrapure's website reveals they have refurbed units in stock. Add an auto shut off and you're good to go. Not to mention this comes with replacement filters. That's a great deal. https://www.spectrapure.com/product/rebuilt-maxpure-mpdi-90-gpd-rodi-system-mpdi-90-a/

Thanks for the link