Cyano going to cause me to shut down my tank

silvernblackr35

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I would try vibrant dosing until the algae is dead and gone(it won't help your cyano problem and might even make it worse fyi). Then use Dr Tim's waste away for the cyano. I was in a similar boat last summer it seemed once I got one under control the other would just explode.

You could also try switching to vinegar instead of nopox and see if the situation resolves itself on it's own.
 

EZ Electric

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I dose vinegar and use vibrant both were no help at all with cyano.

Day 6 with refugium running with high powered grow light and algae is almost completely gone.

Went from horrible to gone in a week

Strongly recommend refugium and Kessil h380 along with AlgaeBarn clean cheatomorpha. I’d bet within one week of use u will have the same results I have
 

jsker

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What kind of lights are you running?
I had the same problem for a year and half until I turn down my white spectrum time on, the tank has been cyano free for about a month now without any other changes.

Here is a thread with my battle Link and what I tried. H2O2, virbrant did not work for my system. Right now I just run GFO, filter media, dose balling method and reef salt.
 

Cory

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Of all else fails uss chemiclean or something similar. Its not worth quitting over.
 

Cory

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Go back to the kiss method. The corals won't die.

Feed the the fish healthfully and not skimp.

Another friend of mine.
Check this out.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reeferfoxxs-jbj-30.317132/page-11#post-4263637

This will tell you in intimate detail every thing you need to know about cyano.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what-are-the-root-causes-of-cyano.338028/

Another blistering , heated and advanced look into nutrients , limitation , and formulaic biological processes.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/theory-on-nutrient-ratios-and-algae-bacteria.337339/




Or just skip past all that and examine the sum total of each and go back to what the old schoolers knew about biodiversity.

Because oddly enough, this isn't so crazy an idea after all.

IMG_0747.JPG

Yes , it's mud. From Fiji. $20
Whats the fiji mud do? Anyone report removing cyano with it?
 

brandon429

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cyano is the easiest invader to beat in reefing.

search

the official sand rinse thread. zero times cyano wasn't beaten.

The cause of cyano, or sustained spirulina which you may have, is doing the opposite of actions shown in the sand rinse thread, there is no other cause. Its a ubiquitous organism that vectors in, and out, of our tanks routinely not just during invasion time.
we account for that physiology, in our giant thread of cyano beat downs.

using a medication to beat something we show beaten so easily, is a total waste of time, and it allows for noncompliance since you are requiring something other than your hands to be cyano free. I recommend using what the results show to be roughly 100% effective, within the hour you complete the required work you needed to do months ago.


I hope to prove to you that you can be free of cyano by about 2 pm today depending on our time zone issues. your thread mentioned an impending take down if we didn't post some way to free your setup.
B
 
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BZOFIQ

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PS: Azithromycin is found for human use in tablets of 500 mg, brand ZITHROMAX (Pfizer lab). It is not necessary to grind the tablet, it dissolves by itself in the water of the aquarium, it is enough to cut to the approximate measurement of the necessary dose and to play in the DT, in a point of good circulation of the water. The cyanobacteria disappear in 3 to 4 days.

Isn't that obtainable by RX only?
 

dankreef

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Cyano comes from imbalance. Like leaching from rocks sand then you rip it out with gfo. People are saying chaeto and I agree for this reason . The chaeto will absorb whatever is leaching before it causes your levels to go up and then down creating cyano. I'd run chaeto for a while at least keep it trimmed back then try removing later. Stuffs miracle for getting rid of tank alages just rips a lot out of water if you get a lot of it . GL
 
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Potatohead

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I appreciate the suggestions, some of you guys need to read the thread though, lol.

I dose vinegar and use vibrant both were no help at all with cyano.

Day 6 with refugium running with high powered grow light and algae is almost completely gone.

Went from horrible to gone in a week

Strongly recommend refugium and Kessil h380 along with AlgaeBarn clean cheatomorpha. I’d bet within one week of use u will have the same results I have

I think I am going to go to the LFS, get some chaeto and a clip on light with 5000k bulb, and see what happens. I have nothing to lose at this point. If it works or shows promise I will consider a better light. I will bring down my carbon dose over the next few days, manually remove as much cyano as I can, and see what happens. I will keep GFO running but monitor, and see if I need it still.

What kind of lights are you running?
I had the same problem for a year and half until I turn down my white spectrum time on, the tank has been cyano free for about a month now without any other changes.

Here is a thread with my battle Link and what I tried. H2O2, virbrant did not work for my system. Right now I just run GFO, filter media, dose balling method and reef salt.

Eight bulb Sunpower, four blue, two actinic, one coral, one purple. All bulbs are fresh within the last few weeks, I used to run one more coral instead of actinic but changed in order to blue up the spectrum for this very reason.

I would try vibrant dosing until the algae is dead and gone(it won't help your cyano problem and might even make it worse fyi). Then use Dr Tim's waste away for the cyano. I was in a similar boat last summer it seemed once I got one under control the other would just explode.

You could also try switching to vinegar instead of nopox and see if the situation resolves itself on it's own.

Algae is basically gone but then cyano went nuts. Was in the process of switching (slowly) it did seem to help until the last 7-10 days.

Of all else fails uss chemiclean or something similar. Its not worth quitting over.

Done this two or three times already, it just comes back
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Whats the fiji mud do? Anyone report removing cyano with it?
It's a dozen or more corralines , plus a billion other things.

Check out those two other threads.
 

Lasse

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You are not going to like what I´m saying now. The moment that you start to use a chemical (like chemiclan or/and vibrant - I do not get if you have used vibrant or not) - you make your whole system to tip. These chemicals do not only kill the specific organism - they will kill other microbes also - microbes that could have had a large importance for the stability of your biological system and you will switch from one monoculture to another depending of what you are killing for the moment.

IMO - cyanobacteria mats are a sign of something lacking. Sometimes nitrogen, sometimes phosphorus and sometimes some trace elements like iron.

IMO H2O2 can be used because its normally do not kill other organism only slowing down their growth a bit.

What to do for the moment? Try to figure out if you have any depletion of some important substances, try to change the environment in your aquarium (to go BB for a while can be one solution even if I´m convinced that a healthy sand bed is important for microbial stability – but you need to change something – you chose) Ad diversity – miracle mud can be good (I have not used it – it does nor exist here in Europe but I trust @saltyfilmfolks experiences)

Attack your cyanobacteria mats every evening – try to take away as much as possible (lower the biomass – hence the growth rate). When you see that you are winning the battle – get a large and diverse cleanup crew – including hermits, snails, crabs and urchins. Be carefully if you put them in before you see that the mats have disappear (or are very few and thin) - this because sometimes cyanobacteria mats can use chemical warfare (that’s one reason why its good to take out so much as possible every evening).

The clean up crew have to be large because when you have defeat the cyanobacteria mats - there is open space for other organisms to grow in a accelerated rate and other
nuisances algae is best defeated when the biomass is low.

And the most important – take time and make all movements like a sloth – slowly and with patience

Sincerely Lasse
 

rushbattle

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Powerfilters help incredibly with cyano.

http://dsrreefing.com/powerfilter/

You can call my method the bacterial filter method. I dose vibrant once a week, microbacter7 and waste away equivalent every day. Then I use a big eheim 1262 to run my powerfilter. It feeds a 57w UV, but I’m not sure it does anything. Water is quite clear. No algae anywhere. I have lots of bare rock so it has plenty of opportunity to grow.
 

Cscultho

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Go back to the kiss method. The corals won't die.

Feed the the fish healthfully and not skimp.

Another friend of mine.
Check this out.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reeferfoxxs-jbj-30.317132/page-11#post-4263637

This will tell you in intimate detail every thing you need to know about cyano.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/what-are-the-root-causes-of-cyano.338028/

Another blistering , heated and advanced look into nutrients , limitation , and formulaic biological processes.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/theory-on-nutrient-ratios-and-algae-bacteria.337339/




Or just skip past all that and examine the sum total of each and go back to what the old schoolers knew about biodiversity.

Because oddly enough, this isn't so crazy an idea after all.

IMG_0747.JPG

Yes , it's mud. From Fiji. $20
Im currently in the process of converting my RSR250 sump into a refugium to add the fiji mud. Im sectioning off a compartment to add mud. This is the recipe to success IMO. @Salty....you are absolutely right about mud.

In my past tanks ive used mud and it was amazing for diversity. Unfortunately i got caught up in this whole new "clean tanks" and added all dead rock and sand and its been nothing but a DISASTER!! For the life of me i dont understand why reefers strayed away from the live stuff that worked and helps prevent all these nasty algae. Hitchhikers on LR IMO is not half as scary as dealing with DINO's.
 

saltyfilmfolks

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Im currently in the process of converting my RSR250 sump into a refugium to add the fiji mud. Im sectioning off a compartment to add mud. This is the recipe to success IMO. @Salty....you are absolutely right about mud.

In my past tanks ive used mud and it was amazing for diversity. Unfortunately i got caught up in this whole new "clean tanks" and added all dead rock and sand and its been nothing but a DISASTER!! For the life of me i dont understand why reefers strayed away from the live stuff that worked and helps prevent all these nasty algae. Hitchhikers on LR IMO is not half as scary as dealing with DINO's.
Its one thing. Hand sanitizer.


Fwiw, you can just swirl the stuff around in the water.
A lot of folks won't do it cuz it makes the "tank ugly " for like a day.

I put half a can in the last tank I dry cyled while it was still in a bucket curing. I got all kinds of life. All of it tiny.
 

Cscultho

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What i really want is sponges on my rock. None of my dead rock had it....obviously and now im looking for ways to introduce it to my DT rocks. Hopefully the fiji mud will jump start my DT.
 

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