Cyano or Dino?

RabidDragon

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Is this Cyano or Dino?

I have been battling 0 Nitrate and 0 Phos for probably 2 months (when I started my fuge). I dropped my refuge light (Red Ogo and Leaf Lettuce macro algae) to 2 hours a day, turned off my skimmer and more than doubled my feedings with still no effect to raising the Nitrate and Phos. I don't do routine water changes as I've been trying to get the N&P up. I've been adding 2 mil of ATI Nitrogen and Phosphorous to the tank. The double zero's was clearly effecting the small frag of GSP that I have. If I dose the tank with N&P the GSP emerges but if I stop it completely retracts after a couple days only to re-emerge after I start dosing again.

~4 weeks ago I was starting to loosing the tank to brown hair algae so I dosed Vibrant which wiped out the hair algae in a week, it also killed the Red Ogo that I had in my fuge. I thought that this would definitely cause a rise in Nitrate and Phos... but nope... still double zero's even though I didn't remove the dead Ogo or the hair algae. This new development (see video) I'm not sure what to do with.




It's on the rock, glass and sand. It initially just coats the surface but as it gets thicker it starts too look more like spiders cobwebs fluttering in the current. It is easy to blow off. This stuff does not dissipate at night, the snails eat wide trails of it and the Tangs eat it too with no ill effect to them. There is far to much of it for them to make any real dent in it however.

The WaterBox 220.6 tank is now 6 months old. I've got about 15 fat healthy fish, my blue hippo tang is named "Porky" for obvious reasons. All fish were bought as small as possible and are growing quickly. I have in the past month discovered small spots of purple coralline algae growth are starting to appearing on the rock and back wall.

Thanks for any help,

Jeremy
 

Bo.

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Is this Cyano or Dino?

I have been battling 0 Nitrate and 0 Phos for probably 2 months (when I started my fuge). I dropped my refuge light (Red Ogo and Leaf Lettuce macro algae) to 2 hours a day, turned off my skimmer and more than doubled my feedings with still no effect to raising the Nitrate and Phos. I don't do routine water changes as I've been trying to get the N&P up. I've been adding 2 mil of ATI Nitrogen and Phosphorous to the tank. The double zero's was clearly effecting the small frag of GSP that I have. If I dose the tank with N&P the GSP emerges but if I stop it completely retracts after a couple days only to re-emerge after I start dosing again.

~4 weeks ago I was starting to loosing the tank to brown hair algae so I dosed Vibrant which wiped out the hair algae in a week, it also killed the Red Ogo that I had in my fuge. I thought that this would definitely cause a rise in Nitrate and Phos... but nope... still double zero's even though I didn't remove the dead Ogo or the hair algae. This new development (see video) I'm not sure what to do with.




It's on the rock, glass and sand. It initially just coats the surface but as it gets thicker it starts too look more like spiders cobwebs fluttering in the current. It is easy to blow off. This stuff does not dissipate at night, the snails eat wide trails of it and the Tangs eat it too with no ill effect to them. There is far to much of it for them to make any real dent in it however.

The WaterBox 220.6 tank is now 6 months old. I've got about 15 fat healthy fish, my blue hippo tang is named "Porky" for obvious reasons. All fish were bought as small as possible and are growing quickly. I have in the past month discovered small spots of purple coralline algae growth are starting to appearing on the rock and back wall.

Thanks for any help,

Jeremy

The tank was 4 months old before you dosed vibrant? If so, I'd suggest slowing down with dosing, there's a possibility it wiped out both good and bad bacteria. Add some beneficial bacteria back weekly for a month or two and see where that gets you with daily/biweekly manual removal.
 

Suohhen

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0 nutrients is a symptom of out of control algae, reducing nutrient import or export is not a means by which you can reliably get control of an outbreak. ID is critical to determining the best course of action and the only 100% way to be sure is through microscope ID. A good enough scope can be hard fairly affordabably online. If there are significant air bubbles trapped that can be an indication of dinos but no guarantee. The only other method I've seen work somewhat reliably is detailed here.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/helpful-method-for-identifying-dinoflagellates.216508/
 
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