Cyano outbreak help

[reeferericb]

I’m battling cyano and I thought I had a good plan of attack. I have significantly reduced the amount of food, and increased the amount of water changes I’m doing daily. The cyano is persistent. I just checked my TDS for the fresh water (ready to mix) and it’s reading 12-14 TDS. is it possible that this is causing part of my problems? I’ve ordered replacement cartridges regardless, I’m just trying to figure this out. I’m very hesitant to use any chemicals to remove the bacteria, I want to root the problem out at the source.

I do have a thriving refugium. I culled out some chaeto a few months ago and that’s when the cyano started. The chaeto is growing great again (finally), but the cyano remains.

 

[dannyd_]

I’m battling cyano and I thought I had a good plan of attack. I have significantly reduced the amount of food, and increased the amount of water changes I’m doing daily. The cyano is persistent. I just checked my TDS for the fresh water (ready to mix) and it’s reading 12-14 TDS. is it possible that this is causing part of my problems? I’ve ordered replacement cartridges regardless, I’m just trying to figure this out. I’m very hesitant to use any chemicals to remove the bacteria, I want to root the problem out at the source.

I do have a thriving refugium. I culled out some chaeto a few months ago and that’s when the cyano started. The chaeto is growing great again (finally), but the cyano remains.

Cyano is caused by nutrient concentrations going off. Not feeding the tank and having cheato that can pull nutrients out of the water can cause cyano to persist. That being said it doesn't mean the cheato is the cause of your problems, many people run it on their tanks. However that is for high nutrient tanks. For whatever reason your tank must have been low, causing your cheato to allow the cyano to continue to thrive. Additionally, your freshwater tds should be at preferably at 0. Changing your filter will get you the tds to zero. I would change the filters whenever you get above 5 tds at the max. Also about chemicals, I was hesitant to use them, and when I did it never helped me remove it permanently. Some people have luck, but I would be hesitant with it. The daily water changes are a great way to battle cyano. Try physically removing it whenever you do a water change. Keep up being persistent and you will see the light at the end of the tunnel.

 

[Jekyl]

I'd try and search for posts @vetteguy53081 has made on this subject. Cyano is usually caused when things go haywire or parameters swing.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’m battling cyano and I thought I had a good plan of attack. I have significantly reduced the amount of food, and increased the amount of water changes I’m doing daily. The cyano is persistent. I just checked my TDS for the fresh water (ready to mix) and it’s reading 12-14 TDS. is it possible that this is causing part of my problems? I’ve ordered replacement cartridges regardless, I’m just trying to figure this out. I’m very hesitant to use any chemicals to remove the bacteria, I want to root the problem out at the source.

I do have a thriving refugium. I culled out some chaeto a few months ago and that’s when the cyano started. The chaeto is growing great again (finally), but the cyano remains.

Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Cyano is caused by a lack of nutrients. Not feeding the tank and having cheato that can pull nutrients out of the water can cause cyano to persist. That being said it doesn't mean the cheato is the cause of your problems, many people run it on their tanks. However that is for high nutrient tanks. For whatever reason your tank must have been low, causing your cheato to allow the cyano to continue to thrive. Additionally, your freshwater tds should be at preferably at 0. Changing your filter will get you the tds to zero. I would change the filters whenever you get above 5 tds at the max. Also about chemicals, I was hesitant to use them, and when I did it never helped me remove it permanently. Some people have luck, but I would be hesitant with it. The daily water changes are a great way to battle cyano. Try physically removing it whenever you do a water change. Keep up being persistent and you will see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Not caused by lack of nutrients as It is actually a combo of algae and bacteria giving it - its name. Cyano is a common photosynthetic organismfound in an array of colors such as green, purple and black and occurs when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.

 

[dannyd_]

Not caused by lack of nutrients as It is actually a combo of algae and bacteria giving it - its name. Cyano is a common photosynthetic organism found in an array of colors such as green, purple and black and occurs when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.

thank you

 

[Freemason1970]

Not caused by lack of nutrients as It is actually a combo of algae and bacteria giving it - its name. Cyano is a common photosynthetic organismfound in an array of colors such as green, purple and black and occurs when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.

What if the phosphate and nitrate levels are not too high? I am having the same issue (at least I think). It is red in color on my sand bed. It can’t be flow because it is where the wave maker pushed the sand out from too much flow in that area.
nitrate level is 0.19 and phosphate is 0.01. Is it possible that they are too low

 

[vetteguy53081]

What if the phosphate and nitrate levels are not too high? I am having the same issue (at least I think). It is red in color on my sand bed. It can’t be flow because it is where the wave maker pushed the sand out from too much flow in that area.
nitrate level is 0.19 and phosphate is 0.01. Is it possible that they are too low

Too low Phos may trigger it but Phosphate may be one trigger. Check your TDS if using RODI unit and test your tap water fr phosphates to see if it high before going through your eater source. Sounds like you have cyano and may want to compete with it by adding 1-1.5 ml of liquid bacteria per 10 gals during the day and reducing # of hours white light is on and reducing white intensity

 

[Zarabyte]

I know this will not help but i leave it and it goes away on its own

 

[Freemason1970]

Too low Phos may trigger it but Phosphate may be one trigger. Check your TDS if using RODI unit and test your tap water fr phosphates to see if it high before going through your eater source. Sounds like you have cyano and may want to compete with it by adding 1-1.5 ml of liquid bacteria per 10 gals during the day and reducing # of hours white light is on and reducing white intensity

My TDS is good. I change everything when it gets to 1 or 2. I’ve never checked it for phosphate though. I think I will start with checking that, adding liquid bacteria and reducing the white lights. Thanks for the help.