Cycling a new Biocube 32

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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would've been easy 400.00 here~ nice one for sure.

We have used your thread here for about 20 direct link examples so far for others to copy, the most recent is a 2 year delayed start on an exact dry rock system but larger, about twice your gallons. They refuse to budge with phosphate present, we've put away the test and stocked corals that don't mind working around some phosphate, they get to see an actual start + success. whichever corals you pack in there, the CPR feed each one directed at least weekly, decent rip change is the simple work load that will cake the system in coralline, grow the least algae and fatten up corals. In 2 years time you'll have a full reef with eight fish lol and elk horn antlers. This reef here shows that varying away from older trends is ok, it meets up with demand dates and quickened start dates no different than we expect for our data.

Its ok to not wait 54 minutes to download a 5 meg mp3 track aka 2003. It is also ok to stock a reef when ammonia is controlled, and when we have access to hq feed to make up for dry rock starts/lacking food web. you are proving all that, nice one.


biofilms covering your live rocks are doing their job, po4 is being liberated in the system but at not much cost; you're exporting it and not allowing plant fixation to build up. the color of the corals is perfect and on track. what nitrate and po4 is there, is keeping them from bleaching.

it wont even matter for a long time what calcium and alk is...decent weekly water changes fixes all until one day months on you'd like to back off a dose a bit. absolute success formula.
 
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Daniel266jz

Daniel266jz

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would've been easy 400.00 here~ nice one for sure.

We have used your thread here for about 20 direct link examples so far for others to copy, the most recent is a 2 year delayed start on an exact dry rock system but larger, about twice your gallons. They refuse to budge with phosphate present, we've put away the test and stocked corals that don't mind working around some phosphate, they get to see an actual start + success. whichever corals you pack in there, the CPR feed each one directed at least weekly, decent rip change is the simple work load that will cake the system in coralline, grow the least algae and fatten up corals. In 2 years time you'll have a full reef with eight fish lol and elk horn antlers. This reef here shows that varying away from older trends is ok, it meets up with demand dates and quickened start dates no different than we expect for our data.

Its ok to not wait 54 minutes to download a 5 meg mp3 track aka 2003. It is also ok to stock a reef when ammonia is controlled, and when we have access to hq feed to make up for dry rock starts/lacking food web. you are proving all that, nice one.


biofilms covering your live rocks are doing their job, po4 is being liberated in the system but at not much cost; you're exporting it and not allowing plant fixation to build up. the color of the corals is perfect and on track. what nitrate and po4 is there, is keeping them from bleaching.

it wont even matter for a long time what calcium and alk is...decent weekly water changes fixes all until one day months on you'd like to back off a dose a bit. absolute success formula.
Its great to know that I am contributing to help others because i know how it felt when i THOUGHT i was "stuck". Yes, everything seems to be working in harmony and my weekly water changes keep everything looking good, not to mention my corals are all very colorful and open. No to my surprise and most likely yours that bounce mushroom was only....... 80$!!! I also wanted to start adding some copepods to my tank, but since i wont be using my refugium soon how can i keep them alive and happy? I know you dose phyto to keep them fed but where can i house them? I want to get a mandarin dragonette as my next fish.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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they live in the rocks and sand its perfect right in the display and they'll eat that exact food corals eat for sure, get some they're perfect additions, I might goose my old reef with some too just to diversify it up a bit too. good for all reefs
 

brandon429

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Daniel I just linked your thread to a friend concerned about preventing new tank uglies. He wants to act before a problem, awesome.

I hope he sees your assertion here


we don’t treat every smudge as bad, nor do we concern about phosphate and nitrate adsorbents this early on, they’re dinos risks.


We’re tank breathers....in out water change willingness, weekly, solves all issues


We beckon, want, and await various pigments to express on rocks, some light cyano or tiny green algae spots (price of dry rock starts, on the road to coralline) are managed. We disallow long wispy stranded algae growths, via external cleaning as the tank and water column proceed onward without phosphate caring.

Feeding accompanies water change events often, more feed exposure than an average tank + willingness to simply clean rocks and sand when it’s balancing time is why your tank will live as predicted. It’s having a NOW start date + enjoyment time + family enjoys the tank, no hesitation once verifiers are in place vs everything greater society would have you do with the tank which is have it still barren and loaded with lanthanum chloride.
 
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Daniel266jz

Daniel266jz

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Daniel I just linked your thread to a friend concerned about preventing new tank uglies. He wants to act before a problem, awesome.

I hope he sees your assertion here


we don’t treat every smudge as bad, nor do we concern about phosphate and nitrate adsorbents this early on, they’re dinos risks.


We’re tank breathers....in out water change willingness, weekly, solves all issues


We beckon, want, and await various pigments to express on rocks, some light cyano or tiny green algae spots (price of dry rock starts, on the road to coralline) are managed. We disallow long wispy stranded algae growths, via external cleaning as the tank and water column proceed onward without phosphate caring.

Feeding accompanies water change events often, more feed exposure than an average tank + willingness to simply clean rocks and sand when it’s balancing time is why your tank will live as predicted. It’s having a NOW start date + enjoyment time + family enjoys the tank, no hesitation once verifiers are in place vs everything greater society would have you do with the tank which is have it still barren and loaded with lanthanum chloride.
Sounds great! I hope they listen and are able to start enjoying their tank as i am!
 
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Daniel266jz

Daniel266jz

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Update- I think I hit my corelline algea stage. Here are some pics of some of my rocks that has an algea buildup and now I see some coralline. Let me know if I’m right.

D85C379B-13D5-4010-AE07-ACE2963049DA.jpeg 3C55E4AC-0079-4B59-8E3A-A32E1FF6A39C.jpeg
 

brandon429

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yes agreed, all the accretions we want to farm await prior layers to deposit first; filter bac are among the very first colonizers. Somehow these organisms use chemical signalling to beckon the next depositor. if we keep enough room/not allow super uglies takeover/this basal layer here of very light green algae and/or cyano are indeed prepping surfaces for coralline. i can see the pinkish hue on the right/all the goodies you've stocked with are coralline vectors its coming yep/very positive sign. the pics show that your overall balances of light intensity and color, feeding, export, are all in balance! we dont want all white rocks, this hue above is just perfect progression.
 
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Daniel266jz

Daniel266jz

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yes agreed, all the accretions we want to farm await prior layers to deposit first; filter bac are among the very first colonizers. Somehow these organisms use chemical signalling to beckon the next depositor. if we keep enough room/not allow super uglies takeover/this basal layer here of very light green algae and/or cyano are indeed prepping surfaces for coralline. i can see the pinkish hue on the right/all the goodies you've stocked with are coralline vectors its coming yep/very positive sign. the pics show that your overall balances of light intensity and color, feeding, export, are all in balance! we dont want all white rocks, this hue above is just perfect progression.
Thank you for the explanation as always!
 
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Daniel266jz

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Update- So my frogspawn has grown two branches on its side and my blasto is growing another head, and also unfortunate news. My wife was excited to buy a white mushroom coral which she doesn’t know that when corals are white that means they’re bleached and she bought it. The owner of the store actually sold her a bleached mushroom for 20$. I will post pics and please let me know if this is true.

D296DC19-56AD-4F9B-A606-F00C2BE8ECCF.jpeg EAC81501-19F0-4010-9323-76FAB78C9D23.jpeg
 

brandon429

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hey thats a wierd sale agreed but you know what, with a little color im seeing i think it will come back. that same feeding cpr in/out will regenerate it, im 99% sure. Your thread is being linked as help threads for coral growth issue tanks, well done.
 
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Daniel266jz

Daniel266jz

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hey thats a wierd sale agreed but you know what, with a little color im seeing i think it will come back. that same feeding cpr in/out will regenerate it, im 99% sure. Your thread is being linked as help threads for coral growth issue tanks, well done.
Okay I will keep an eye on it and keep up with my routine. Thank you
 

#1Fellowreefer

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Hello @brandon429 @Daniel266jz i have read this thread and yes I did start with dry rocks I have cycled my tank. I have posted in the thread link below and wanted to know if I am okay with what I am seeing. All the coralline growth is natural and I had not seeded with anything. Please help is you can..

 

brandon429

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Based on Daniels thread and progression pics your tank looks comparatively in balance.

you have some light rock growths we expect from new dry starts, but you should take one rock out and keep it clean by manual control, outside the tank, and set back in. have one rock that always complies and is never allowed to stray; so you know baseline controls that work if needed.

the rest of the rocks can continue on until you reach the point you want to clean them off. you can choose. no amount of cleaning externally will harm your filter bac.

to me this thought process above is the ideal balance of not overdoing expected uglies, and also not sitting idly back for a takeover to occur. It is solely out of tank cleaning, dosing no medication and not altering params for nitrate and phosphate, we work with however those present after the feed in, water change out CPR action

@Daniel266jz how many feed / water change intervals have you done since startup, any degree/ wants the count
 
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Daniel266jz

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Thanks @brandon429 I will work on this, and today as per the Chemiclean I will do the 20% water change and then follow your directions here on this thread. Thank for the advice..
@#1Fellowreefer , I have not seen this type or color of growth on my rocks yet but i did go through various colors and colonizers before I got to my coralline stage. @brandon429 's advice and water change routine helped me get through all of the "uglies" in a not so ugly way. I honestly (knock on wood) did not go through such bad stages, i stayed pretty clean and clear. I have passed diatoms, glass algae, bacterial bloom in water column, and now green algae on rock with coralline. I would follow the advice given to me and you should be golden. My water is crystal clear, my fish are great and i am on the corralline stage even having pods now without introduction!
 

#1Fellowreefer

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@#1Fellowreefer , I have not seen this type or color of growth on my rocks yet but i did go through various colors and colonizers before I got to my coralline stage. @brandon429 's advice and water change routine helped me get through all of the "uglies" in a not so ugly way. I honestly (knock on wood) did not go through such bad stages, i stayed pretty clean and clear. I have passed diatoms, glass algae, bacterial bloom in water column, and now green algae on rock with coralline. I would follow the advice given to me and you should be golden. My water is crystal clear, my fish are great and i am on the corralline stage even having pods now without introduction!
I have had my diatoms and GHA phase then I started seeing the speckles of coralline growth and my water is crystal clear no issues there at all. I am not running any media at all it’s all natural approach with three 4” filter socks, Aquamaxx ConsS Q3 skimmer macro algae pompom from AlgaeBarn and about 20 of the 2” marine pure blocks. I haven’t had any issues with the tank in the last six months. This green stuff started to come when I used Vibrant to rid of the GHA with manual removal as well and started to see this. Like last night I did my 20% water change per the instructions of use with Chemiclean my water in the bucket was crystal clear. I have send my water sample to ATI ICP for testing this past Monday hopefully early next week I will see what’s that in the water column that’s causing this green stuff to show up. As I said you can see it nice and green when the lights are off but when the light are on you can barely see it. It’s very very light.
 

#1Fellowreefer

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Besides after the Chemiclean treatment my skimmers is just going nuts.. need to figure out how to tune it back as it was working perfectly fine before Chemiclean was added thinking it was cyano..
 

brandon429

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its important to know that in this thread we arent using ICP or chemiclean, we havent taken on the testing approach. I think its important to point that out so the results here, which are not common (he's having headache free growth, chasing no conditions) can be attributed specifically to not dosing antibiotics nor tedious testing and response, investing $ in things other than corals, feed or fish.


what is occurring differently here vs a normal reef is being hands on; able to lift out rocks, clean externally using no chems. Able to deep clean sandbed, if required, and not kill anything in the process. Marked feeding vs sparse feeding, and heavy water change, till things stabilize. then he backs off
What most people do is opposite; they're hands off, dosing, testing, restricting feed, $ purchasing things to alleviate what a test kit says, and the tank has marked areas of clouding in the rocks and/or sand.

The pages leading up to this one have been very uncommon from the start, thats why this tank from Daniel is working headache free, his access to repeated feeding and work is all the drive needed. we have covered up till now the specialized approach of always being in control of what expresses in the tank via external rock cleaning, and feed/water change linked actions. We haven't mentioned testing at all in recent pages, no params discussed.
 
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Daniel266jz

Daniel266jz

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its important to know that in this thread we arent using ICP or chemiclean, we havent taken on the testing approach. I think its important to point that out so the results here, which are not common (he's having headache free growth, chasing no conditions) can be attributed specifically to not dosing antibiotics nor tedious testing and response, investing $ in things other than corals, feed or fish.

The pages leading up to this one have been very uncommon from the start, thats why this tank from Daniel is working headache free, his access to repeated feeding and work is all the drive needed. we have covered up till now the specialized approach of always being in control of what expresses in the tank via external rock cleaning, and feed/water change linked actions. We haven't mentioned testing at all in recent pages, no params discussed.
@brandon429 is correct. All I run and have ever ran is filter floss in my media basket and some chaeto for a while and even that is gone for a while because i wasnt ready for it yet. I only test for salinity and temperature per brandon. I have not dosed any chemicals whatsoever and my tank is coming along great. That being said I have not the idea what that algea might be as I have not had it but I cant seem to find any more information on what you have described the algae like. Wish i could help out more.
 
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