Cycling help!

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britnicole1724

britnicole1724

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Oh... Interesting. I've not used that product. What does Dr. Tims say to do based on the daily test results?
It’s mostly making sure that everything is doing what it should be. This is what you go by. Every other day as long as ammonia is 0 you’re supposed to dose ammonia to 1-2 ppm. Once ammonia and nitrites reach 0, the tank is cycled.
 

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I’m showing you examples where non digital kits caused false alarm

and where nh4 was reported vs 10x lower nh3. Non digital test kits have a long lag time to report clearance we can see from the examples compared to digital

your real ammonia level is about .04-.004 nh3, that’s common for Dr Tims after a few days and is safe zone, not danger zone.

agreed you don’t need digital we can sub in number of days underwater instead.

revert to the known timeframe agreed to nine days



I’ve tracked lots of Dr Tims cycles on seneye you’ll be fine after the big change. I have a twenty page thread on ten day starts, yours will pass if you are using rocks and sand in the setup for the bacteria to adhere to.

nobody’s fish were burned in our ten day starts, we measured digitally


The reason new cycling rules exist is to make up for the problems that non digital kits are causing. And to revert focus onto disease preps, that’s where the real losses occur, never during a cycle.
You seem to be pretty knowledgeable and wanted to ask your opinion on this given you know the updates.
Ammonia 0 but nitrites and nitrates are high after a water change.
Do we let it run its course or do another water change/dose more ammonia??
 

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brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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every tank there is like yours


see how they’re all cycled, and fish disease prep is what you should really focus on

cycle umpires have you focused on the wrong thing, your cycle is done, you don’t get better disease prep by waiting longer.

cease dosing ammonia, cease testing for ammonia and nitrite, prepare quarantine tank.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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the purpose of that thread is to set markers for any cycle that does not use any test, it uses number of days in water as the primary determinant on the start date because a common cycling chart has that logged as day 10-12.

all pet stores that have ever existed, must deal with incoming life and don't have 30-90 days wait to prepare holding systems, they must attain a timely start date with every shipment received. they inflow and outflow bioload daily more than our tanks will ever do, yet their cycles hold and don't mini cycle. they're not buying cases of bottle bac to actually use, its to sell to us for a perceived need.

meanwhile on forums, you wait till December if the tests say to.

at marine tank conventions going on since the 90s they all have a determinant start date to arrange all those instant live reefs to be cycled by Thursday the start date of the convention. but in forums, you must wait 3 months if the kits say to



its all about disease preps, you cannot fail a cycle from a bottle or we'd have 1 dead tank there. other factors fill in for you if your bottle bac was challenged, we show by having twenty pages of happy fish.


on seneye, the first bottle of bac you bought was fine, and your non digital testing caused you to buy more. we track that tendency over and over above. it just happened to you


every one of those reefs was nitrite positive, and every one of those reefs met the ammonia drop date from a cycle chart which allowed for complete timeliness across the spectrum of tank uses. Randy's article on nitrite shows its flatly neutral, we didn't just make that up. its a fifteen year old article, today's aquarists ignore his writing

**I did not build that thread to earn the ire of all forum post peers lol its because I want hobbyists to have the exact same controls the sellers have, that simple. these are the tricks the sellers use to never lose stock and to save the most cash.
 
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every tank there is like yours


see how they’re all cycled, and fish disease prep is what you should really focus on

cycle umpires have you focused on the wrong thing, your cycle is done, you don’t get better disease prep by waiting longer.

cease dosing ammonia, cease testing for ammonia and nitrite, prepare quarantine tank.
Fish have been quarantining for over 30 days. Are we ok to add them? No signs of diseases or infections.
 
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the purpose of that thread is to set markers for any cycle that does not use any test, it uses number of days in water as the primary determinant on the start date because a common cycling chart has that logged as day 10-12. by omitting non digital testing we omitted the open-ended start date, because only forums use that approach.

all pet stores that have ever existed, must deal with incoming life and don't have 30-90 days wait to prepare holding systems, they must attain a timely start date with every shipment received. they inflow and outflow bioload daily more than our tanks will ever do, yet their cycles hold and don't mini cycle. they're not buying cases of bottle bac to actually use, its to sell to us for a perceived need.

meanwhile on forums, you wait till December if the tests say to.

at marine tank conventions going on since the 90s they all have a determinant start date to arrange all those instant live reefs to be cycled by Thursday the start date of the convention. but in forums, you must wait 3 months if the kits say to



its all about disease preps, you cannot fail a cycle from a bottle or we'd have 1 dead tank there. other factors fill in for you if your bottle bac was challenged, we show by having twenty pages of happy fish.


on seneye, the first bottle of bac you bought was fine, and your non digital testing caused you to buy more. we track that tendency over and over above. it just happened to you


every one of those reefs was nitrite positive, and every one of those reefs met the ammonia drop date from a cycle chart which allowed for complete timeliness across the spectrum of tank uses. Randy's article on nitrite shows its flatly neutral, we didn't just make that up. its a fifteen year old article, today's aquarists ignore his writing

**I did not build that thread to earn the ire of all forum post peers lol its because I want hobbyists to have the exact same controls the sellers have, that simple. these are the tricks the sellers use to never lose stock and to save the most cash.
Also would it hurt to add a Xenia?? I’ve been reading your forums and it seems that nitrite literally just does not matter at all. Ammonia levels appear to be 0. Intend on purchasing a Seneye when it financially makes sense - still “recovering” and putting a hold on purchases until we make up some of the money we’ve spent on the tank and other equipment.
 

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