Cycling my tank, first time using test kits, am I doing this right?

brandon429

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The ammonia spike up in the center data, and back down, plus meeting the dates on the bottle = cycled plus we linked an exact same start plus outcome. No zero is required, you’ll be lucky if the tests show zero even when your tank is stocked.


Ur cycle was easy to decode. We talk in Daniels thread above how nitrite does not factor any longer in reef cycling, though it used to. Your reef here is about to follow the timeframes Daniels has followed. All of today’s cycling methods are conflicting, it’s indeed hard to know which mode to choose. Just know for starters, that everyone believes they cannot make the timeframe on the bottle. But they can. The portion of the directions that mention nitrite, it’s ironic we can ignore those requirements they used to be such an important part of cycling. Not for reefing, this is the updated way of cycling which matches reef conventions who never, ever, fail to meet a start date with very expensive instant reefs that can run as long as needed. They do not factor nitrite in the start date since nitrite is neutral impact in reefing. They know ammonia control is all that matters, no zero required only movement down and with that info all reef conventions with thousands and thousands of reefs always start on time, twenty years worth.
 
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The ammonia spike up in the center data, and back down, plus meeting the dates on the bottle = cycled plus we linked an exact same start plus outcome. No zero is required, you’ll be lucky if the tests show zero even when your tank is stocked.


Ur cycle was easy to decode. We talk in Daniels thread above how nitrite does not factor any longer in reef cycling, though it used to. Your reef here is about to follow the timeframes Daniels has followed. All of today’s cycling methods are conflicting, it’s indeed hard to know which mode to choose. Just know for starters, that everyone believes they cannot make the timeframe on the bottle. But they can. The portion of the directions that mention nitrite, it’s ironic we can ignore those requirements they used to be such an important part of cycling. Not for reefing, this is the updated way of cycling which matches reef conventions who never, ever, fail to meet a start date with very expensive instant reefs that can run as long as needed. They do not factor nitrite in the start date since nitrite is neutral impact in reefing. They know ammonia control is all that matters, no zero required only movement down and with that info all reef conventions with thousands and thousands of reefs always start on time, twenty years worth.
Thank you so much! This is very helpful. I'm going to dive into reading Daniel's thread tonight.
 

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Many nitrate tests actually convert a percentage of nitrate to nitrite and then measure that. If you've still got nitrite, you'll get nonsense readings for nitrate.
Interesting point. Salifert’s pink color scale suggests it might be a Griess-type test that works that way.
 
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So I did a 20% water change yesterday, and more tests today!

9/24 Day 15: pH = 8.3, NH3 = <0.15, NO2 = 1, NO3 = 100, KH = 7

It looks like my pH, NO2, and KH increased. Should I dose Seachem Reef Fusion 2 to raise the alkalinity more? Or should I just wait to not mess up cycling that's left? I'm also hoping that my nitrites will go back down.

As of now, I'm planning on going to my LFS on Sunday to pick up my first tank inhabitants! I'll get a water test done there just to confirm everything, but do you think that it would be okay to add a CUC on Sunday? I don't have any algae yet, but I'm planning on feeding my CUC pellets and seaweed until an algae bloom happens (which seems to be expected with dry rock). Or... should I get fish first?

Also, from now until Sunday, should I be feeding the tank anything so that the cycling doesn't stop?
 
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Attaching a photo so you can see my algae-free tank:

Image from iOS (1).jpg


Image from iOS.jpg
 

cshouston

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So I did a 20% water change yesterday, and more tests today!

9/24 Day 15: pH = 8.3, NH3 = <0.15, NO2 = 1, NO3 = 100, KH = 7

It looks like my pH, NO2, and KH increased. Should I dose Seachem Reef Fusion 2 to raise the alkalinity more? Or should I just wait to not mess up cycling that's left? I'm also hoping that my nitrites will go back down.

As of now, I'm planning on going to my LFS on Sunday to pick up my first tank inhabitants! I'll get a water test done there just to confirm everything, but do you think that it would be okay to add a CUC on Sunday? I don't have any algae yet, but I'm planning on feeding my CUC pellets and seaweed until an algae bloom happens (which seems to be expected with dry rock). Or... should I get fish first?

Also, from now until Sunday, should I be feeding the tank anything so that the cycling doesn't stop?
I’d hold off on the CUC or they’ll eat one another. Your tank has only been up for a couple of weeks, right? Wait until you get your diatom bloom before adding snails. I’d wait longer for hermits or they’ll eat one another in the absence of abundant food sources. You’re not going to see algae for a while. In my tank, it took two months to see even the first hint of green on my rocks.
 
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I’d hold off on the CUC or they’ll eat one another. Your tank has only been up for a couple of weeks, right? Wait until you get your diatom bloom before adding snails. I’d wait longer for hermits or they’ll eat one another in the absence of abundant food sources. You’re not going to see algae for a while. In my tank, it took two months to see even the first hint of green on my rocks.
Thank you! So would you recommend adding fish first then? I'm worried about there being no source of ammonia. Also, I've been keeping my lights off. Do you think it's time to turn them on?
 

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Thank you! So would you recommend adding fish first then? I'm worried about there being no source of ammonia. Also, I've been keeping my lights off. Do you think it's time to turn them on?
I’d do a large, partial water change first to drop the nitrate level on the off-chance that your test *isnt* faulty (though I doubt you’re really at 100ppm). After that, yea, add one or two small, hardy fish to act as an ammonia source. I’d leave the lights off as long as possible. The fish don’t need it and it can only fuel nuisance photosynthetic organisms at this point. I didn’t turn my lights on until my first test coral went in around the 2 month mark or so.
 

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Also, nitrites will go away eventually. They’re inconsequential in saltwater aquaria. They’re not lethal like they are in freshwater. As for the reef fusion, I wouldn’t worry about your alkalinity until you have a lot of coral consuming it. Until then, you can deal with the minor drop from nitrification through water changes.
 
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I’d do a large, partial water change first to drop the nitrate level on the off-chance that your test *isnt* faulty (though I doubt you’re really at 100ppm). After that, yea, add one or two small, hardy fish to act as an ammonia source. I’d leave the lights off as long as possible. The fish don’t need it and it can only fuel nuisance photosynthetic organisms at this point. I didn’t turn my lights on until my first test coral went in around the 2 month mark or so.
Thank you! I did a 20% water change yesterday, would you recommend doing another one so soon?
And awesome, thank you! So I'll change my plan to add fish first, CUC second!
 

cshouston

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Thank you! I did a 20% water change yesterday, would you recommend doing another one so soon?
And awesome, thank you! So I'll change my plan to add fish first, CUC second!
I did a 90% change after my cycle because I had 40-50ppm nitrates. It didn’t harm anything in my case.
 

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