Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Hows it going? Hope you ordered the tank bc these tank prices are outrageous now! Trying to get a small tank (80-120gallons) for my cousins and its like $1000+
Day Five - 700g in wall, L shaped, drop-off tank
- Monster Build
- Thread starter flagg37
- Start date
- Tagged users None
OP
OP
Wow, it’s been a while since I checked in. I’m not going to buy it. I’ll be building it myself. I build staircases and sometimes they have glass guardrails so I get glass directly from the manufacturer. Their prices have been going up too; not only that but their lead time is crazy too. My customers tend not to balk at the price but when I tell them it will take 8 weeks to get the glass they are never happy. Before Covid it was about 10 business days.
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
My staircase builders thought they could move the tank so they came over with 4 guys and the glass guy said he can't do it bc it will shatter when put on its front bc the glass is tempered/or not. I did not argue bc they did not have any equipment anyways and no way you can move a tank more than few feet with brute force. Anyways, If anyone would have the skills to be build a tank its staircase installers, the measurements they do is insane,
OP
OP
Sorry for not responding for so long. I just haven’t progressed much so I haven’t had much to update about.
I’m still debating whether to use glass or acrylic. At first I was pretty set on glass, and I do like glass better, but the size and complexity of the design is making me lean towards acrylic.
Here’s the newest plan for the design. I think I mentioned that I do a lot of tinkering and tweaking of the design trying to “perfect” it. I only want to do this once.
The front piece is 120” long by 26” tall.
The drop off is an extra 10” making the deep area 36”. It also cantilevers over the edge 16” on the shallow side and 8” on the deep side (I hope that makes sense).
The steel stand will still be 2”x2”x1/4” wall thickness and the supports were positioned so that there should be less than 1/32” deflection when fully loaded.
I do the modeling in SketchUp. It used to be free, and even though it’s not free anymore, it’s still one of the cheapest options.Looking good mate.. Nice modeling too is that on inverter.. I use solid works
How thick is the glass 15mm?
Very interesting on the filtration of alage bed was thinking the same for mine
I’m still debating whether to use glass or acrylic. At first I was pretty set on glass, and I do like glass better, but the size and complexity of the design is making me lean towards acrylic.
Here’s the newest plan for the design. I think I mentioned that I do a lot of tinkering and tweaking of the design trying to “perfect” it. I only want to do this once.
The front piece is 120” long by 26” tall.
The drop off is an extra 10” making the deep area 36”. It also cantilevers over the edge 16” on the shallow side and 8” on the deep side (I hope that makes sense).
The steel stand will still be 2”x2”x1/4” wall thickness and the supports were positioned so that there should be less than 1/32” deflection when fully loaded.
Ashish Patel
2500 Club Member
Thats some vision you have, but I dont know how you can pull of a L shaped angled drop off lol. I think your only option would be acrylic. If you pull this of its going to be epic!
OP
OP
It’s looking like that may be my only option. The two things I don’t like about acrylic is how easy it is to scratch, and to a minor degree, how much thicker you need to go with it.
The outside dimensions would put the display at just over 700 gallons (709.3).
Gumbies R Us
Another Fish in the Sea
Curious to see how this will turn out!!!
1000rrstunna
Active Member
what program are you drawing this in? i'm trying to find something to design my basement and new large build
thanks
thanks
OP
OP
It’s SketchUp. It used to be free but I don’t think it is anymore. There’s a bit of a learning curve with it but there are a ton of tutorials and YouTube videos.
R33f_Hacker
Active Member
What type of strainer did you use? Seems like all the ones I find have reviews saying they restrict a lot of flow. My closed loop will be two 1.5" intakes in tank that will combine into 1.5" to a Vectra L2. output will be 1.25" plumbed over the eurobrace to get flow to far end of my 280 peninsula.I don’t know if you noticed it in the pictures but I also incorporated a closed loop system. It is mostly to have a better way of plumbing the UV but it also offers a solution for getting better flow along the long front of the tank.
It starts out with two 1-1/2” low profile strainers that get plumbed together. I did two so that if one got covered, it would be unlikely that both would get covered. Then it continues to a ball valve, and then opens up from 1-1/2” to 2” plumbing and goes through an apex flow rate monitor and finally into the 120w lifegard pro-max UV sterilizer.
The recommended flow rate for algae for this UV is like 3800 gph so I switched my Abyzz a200 from being the return pump to the closed loop. From the pump it will go to a T where I can direct it to a drain (if I ever need to drain it) or to two 1” lines that go back to the tank with RFG’s. I’ll be covering the in tank plumbing with rock work to hide it as best as possible.
OP
OP
I was going to use the low profile ones on BRS (I think they’re made by lifeguard), if they restrict too much then I’ll probably make a box similar to a ghost overflow but with slots going the whole way down instead of just at the top.
OP
OP
Hey doc, I’m glad you found my thread. This is definitely a multi year endeavor. Do you still have my old tank and stand?
Similar threads
