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What do you think does?My chemi pure is in my aquaclear110 hob. I don’t think 0 phosphate cause Dino’s...
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What do you think does?My chemi pure is in my aquaclear110 hob. I don’t think 0 phosphate cause Dino’s...
I believe adding a bag of gfo will not cause you to get dino's. I think Dino's come when people are obsessed with cleaning sand bed, filters, live rock, to many or to large of water changes. This creates your tank to be too clean and kills to much good bacteria.What do you think does?
Seems fairI believe adding a bag of gfo will not cause you to get dino's. I think Dino's come when people are obsessed with cleaning sand bed, filters, live rock, to many or to large of water changes. This creates your tank to be too clean and kills to much good bacteria.
Reporting back phosphate at .05 woohoo!Phosphates .23 today before adding chemipure elite
I’ll report back Sunday when I usually do water changes and test.
Thanks, I’m tryingCBones
if sandbed cleaning caused dinos, how would our sand rinse thread be turning out. It would be five years of assembled wrecks, plus we did all that work by using tap water on living reef sand, even worse so to speak. We did the opposite of the common rule.
your tank is where it should be for the rocks used and overall age as alternations of generations on the reef works through maturity, you simply have the option to allow the mass to gain or not.
the preventative for your issue is not what removes current invasion from your reef, they’re separate. This saves your reef which is really sharp looking from ever potentially going downhill- disallow this invasion until you find the preventative.
dinos are the top scourge in reefing and when someone’s theory on cause is accurate, we won’t have forty pages of opposite findings and the scourge will be beaten.
the degree of bryopsis and dinos challenges means everyone’s ideas about them collectively amounts to about 30% ability to control for the public, those with no dinos or have beaten dinos try and upscale a given arrangement in a dinos work thread for others and it fails, this is the current state for the hobby.
your battle is half the normal amount, because you have clean unimpacted sand. Be hand removing this until you find the preventer, allow no mass, do not willingly cede to it regardless of the species.
Even w chemipure my po4 has increased. I will pull it after algae scrubber starts to work. Sound like a plan?Your parameters look good. Don't chase numbers and just keep up on maintenance. I'd stop using the Chemipure before PO4 bottoms out. A fuge will help to lower NO3 but PO4 is only slowly taken up. A good defense is great for algae control. A large diverse CUC and regular maintenance. Water changes will not lower PO4 BTW. Good luck and keep up the hard work. Tank is looking great!
I have algae scrubber coming instead of adding a hob fuge. Hopefully that will give it a place to grow that I can easily peel and throw to keep things consistentIt’s only bc we care
we want it beat for everyone. Everyone has a way they like best
I know even direct cleaning may not work, but easy to try at least a couple rounds. Hey did you ever get a chance to consider the big pond sterilizer off amazon, rated for 1200 gallons it burns stuff for us nicely. Not as a permanent install, just enough to burn till you find the right nitrate and phosphate balances
How old is the Chemipure? Might need replacing. PO4 binds to rocks and sand. As you remove it, it unattaches. Not completely sure. I would post in Randy Holmes-Farley reef chemistry thread. This might be why it increases. Do you use RODI water or tap water? Tap Water has PO4 in it. Are you using any coral foods?Even w chemipure my po4 has increased. I will pull it after algae scrubber starts to work. Sound like a plan?
Chemipure is fresh. Just added it a week ago.How old is the Chemipure? Might need replacing. PO4 binds to rocks and sand. As you remove it, it unattaches. Not completely sure. I would post in Randy Holmes-Farley reef chemistry thread. This might be why it increases. Do you use RODI water or tap water? Tap Water has PO4 in it. Are you using any coral foods?
The ATS is a good item. They seem to work really well.
Welp measured using Hanna 3 times. First was .18 and the other two were .00...what should I do?????How old is the Chemipure? Might need replacing. PO4 binds to rocks and sand. As you remove it, it unattaches. Not completely sure. I would post in Randy Holmes-Farley reef chemistry thread. This might be why it increases. Do you use RODI water or tap water? Tap Water has PO4 in it. Are you using any coral foods?
The ATS is a good item. They seem to work really well.
According to Hanna and api I bottomed out phosphatesCBones
if sandbed cleaning caused dinos, how would our sand rinse thread be turning out. It would be five years of assembled wrecks, plus we did all that work by using tap water on living reef sand, even worse so to speak. We did the opposite of the common rule.
your tank is where it should be for the rocks used and overall age as alternations of generations on the reef works through maturity, you simply have the option to allow the mass to gain or not.
the preventative for your issue is not what removes current invasion from your reef, they’re separate. This saves your reef which is really sharp looking from ever potentially going downhill- disallow this invasion until you find the preventative.
dinos are the top scourge in reefing and when someone’s theory on cause is accurate, we won’t have forty pages of opposite findings and the scourge will be beaten.
the degree of bryopsis and dinos challenges means everyone’s ideas about them collectively amounts to about 30% ability to control for the public, those with no dinos or have beaten dinos try and upscale a given arrangement in a dinos work thread for others and it fails, this is the current state for the hobby.
your battle is half the normal amount, because you have clean unimpacted sand. Be hand removing this until you find the preventer, allow no mass, do not willingly cede to it regardless of the species.