Deep Blue 57 Edge ATI Acro Garden

[Water Dog]

#SlowestBuildEver

Decided to finally put up a build thread. After quite some time, I’m finally pushing forward again and making progress. My intention is to go full acropora on this build using ATI T5s with Reefbrite led supplementation for lighting. I’m also looking at either going with the ATI Essentials Pro 2 part dosing system or go with my Geo’s CaRx set up. Maybe I’ll start with the ATI system and as consumption grows, I’ll switch over to the CaRx set up... we’ll see. Here is the full list of gear I’ve accumulated thus far for this build.

Tank -

- Deep Blue Professional 57 Edge rimless aquarium (non reef ready version)
- Modular Marine 1200 gph ghost overflow
- DIY 2x4 framed and skinned stand

Lighting -

- 6x39 ATI Sunpower (non dimmable)
- 3 Coral + and 3 Blue + ATI T5 bulbs
- 36” ReefBrite Actinic XHO led strip (custom silver housing)
- CadLights lamp tree

Under the Hood -

- Trigger Sapphire 26 refugium sump
- Deltec SCA 1351 skimmer
- BRS 5” mini reactor (ROX carbon & GFO)
- AquaUV Classic 15 watt UV sterilizer
- Turbo’s Aquatics L2 rev4 ATS (offline)
- Spectrapure ULPC-ATO
- JBJ 1/10 hp Arctica Titanium chiller
- Precision Marine 10 gallon ATO reservoir

Water Movement -

- Sicce ADV 7.0 AC return pump
- Sicce ADV 5.5 AC return pump (offline)
- 2 x Vortech MP40QDs w/ 2 battery backups
- 2 x VCA 1/2” random flow generators

Dosing -

- Neptune DOS & DDR (ATI Essentials Pro)
- 2 x BRS 1.1ml/min dosers (offline)
- Eshopps 2.0 dosing container (offline)
- Geo’s Reef KR618 kalkwasser reactor (offline)
- Geo’s Reef CR612 calcium reactor (offline)
- Geo’s Reef SMC415 secondary effluent chamber (offline)
- Watson Marlow 505U variable speed peristaltic feed pump (offline)
- DIY stainless steel Victor dual stage CO2 regulator (offline)
- Litermeter III G6 + remote pump for future AWC set up (offline)

Control -

- 2016 Apex
- 2 x EB832s
- EB4
- WXM
- LDK
- BoB
- Reefbrite manual dimmer w/ Apex interface
- Ranco single stage temperature controller

Rock

- 30# BRS Pukani dry rock (curing in a Brute for over a year)

 

[Water Dog]

Current FTS

 

[Water Dog]

The holdup to this build has been the building of the stand. It’s been a long process but I finally put the finish coat on it last week. It’s a 2x4 frame construction skinned with 1/4” birch plywood with 3/4” ply for the top and floor of the stand. It’s primed with Kilz Premium latex primer and finished with Home Depot’s Behr Premium Plus acrylic paint in gloss white with Floetrol to help hide the brush strokes.

 

[Water Dog]

Got the light mounts attached to the stand and the Sunpower and Reefbrite put up today. I screwed up on some plumbing so I just put in an order in to BRS for some sch 80 45 degree elbows and a Cepex ball valve. Should be coming next week so I can finish up the plumbing. I guess in the meantime, I’ll work on finishing up the interior board for my my controller cabinet.

 

[Lukas75]

Not sure about slowest build ever... I might be working on that title as well! Looking good so far.

 

[Water Dog]

Not sure about slowest build ever... I might be working on that title as well! Looking good so far.

Thanks! This build is about a year and a half in the making... The Pukani has been curing in a 20 gallon Brute trash can since October of 2017! Hopefully with the stand finally done, I could really get going. Really bummed about screwing up the plumbing as I was planning to get her wet this weekend.

 

[samnaz]

I've been waiting for this one. Following.

Let's see that controller board you're working on?

 

[Water Dog]

I should have pictures by tomorrow. Whipping out the hole saw tonight and drilling the pilot holes for the mounts. Then I gotta prime and paint. I’ll will try be as detailed as possible with the photos.

 

[NeverlosT]

many ace hardware stores carry sched 80 45 degree plumbing bits, now positive on the ball valve.

Nice start on the build!

 

[Water Dog]

Thanks! I figured if I get a build thread finally going, it’ll motivate me to keep moving forward as opposed to procrastinating like I’ve done for the last year and a half.

 

[Water Dog]

Originally, I wanted a Red Sea Reefer 250, but I’ve never been a fan of the big center overflow. It takes up some valuable space right in the middle of the tank. Hence my decision to go with the non Reef ready rimless 57. I was apprehensive about drilling 1/2 inch thick glass, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as I thought it’d be.

The 12” Modular Marine ghost overflow is well built and perfectly low profile and sleek. I also wanted dual returns. I installed the lock lines tipped with Vivid Creative Aquatics 1/2” random flow generators to help with additional circulation. I’m extremely happy with the results.

 

[Water Dog]

I also wanted a simple screen top but hated those ugly plastic mounting clips. In search of a more aesthetically pleasing solution, I found these flared corner tabs that mate perfectly with the the BRS screen kits.

https://www.swisco.com/Overlap-Scre...-Keys-for-5_16-inch-Thick-Screen-Frame/95-221

The result is a perfectly flush screen top.

When viewed from the front, you can’t even tell it’s there!

 

[hatfielj]

Very nice work. That screen top looks great. I like that overflow box too. Can't wait to see this full

 

[Water Dog]

Can't wait to see this full

You and me both!

 

[OutsideBrian]

Looks good! I just started with that same tank only with the built it overflow.

 

[Water Dog]

Looks good! I just started with that same tank only with the built it overflow.

I’m fairly impressed with the quality of this tank with its thick 1/2” glass for relatively short money. I’m also glad that I was able to support my LFS by ordering it through them.

 

[Water Dog]

So I picked up a white glass door floor cabinet on Amazon that I’d like to convert to a controller cabinet. I cut a large opening in the back so that the power bricks back there could have decent ventilation.

 

[Water Dog]

Here is the 3/4” plywood mounting board that will be pocket screwed and glued onto a plywood baseplate. This will slide neatly into the cabinet. You can see the layout sketched in pencil... Head unit will go in the upper left. Next to that will be the WXM and future FMM (for leak detector purposes) modules. Right upper corner will be the 2 MP40 controllers. Centered below will be the 2 EB832s that will be flanked by the four 3” wire through holes for all the cables. The mounting board will be primed and painted with the leftover Kilz and acrylic paint from the stand.

 

[Water Dog]

Glued and pocket screwed... pilot holes drilled for the mounts as well. Should have her primed and painted this weekend.

 

[AaronFReef]

I also wanted a simple screen top but hated those ugly plastic mounting clips. In search of a more aesthetically pleasing solution, I found these flared corner tabs that mate perfectly with the the BRS screen kits.

https://www.swisco.com/Overlap-Scre...-Keys-for-5_16-inch-Thick-Screen-Frame/95-221

The result is a perfectly flush screen top.

When viewed from the front, you can’t even tell it’s there!

Thanks for linking that! Just picked this up to solve the same problem on my tank.