Desperate need of help with hair algae/dinos

[dlemonz]

How far away is your new tank? Is it set up and what size?

It’s a waterbox 150 it’s cycling right now - but I am trying to sort out all these problems now so I don’t introduce them into the new tank

 

[XtraKargo]

Thanks yeah I will try that as my last resort before razor. I have a tuxedo urchin, 3 turbos, 10 astreas and 5 hermits in the 25 gallon

I figured after running for 3 years you had to have a pretty good crew on hand. Just not much eats it that I have seen. Keep an eye out for smaller emeralds. I have 2 in my 32, and now that the hair algae is gone I feed them Rods triple nori pack.

 

[dlemonz]

Even tho gha will be easier in that tank because I plan on having a tang

 

[MrGisonni]

Get a bunch of turbo snails for the hair algae. For dinos, coral snow/carbon dosing/bacteria additive. I used microbacter7.

 

[Subsea]

It’s a waterbox 150 it’s cycling right now - but I am trying to sort out all these problems now so I don’t introduce them into the new tank

Without nothing how you started this tank and its history, I will make some generalizations on strategy. You may not be able to fix the biochemistry in this tank without a serious RIP clean. With that said, once RIP clean is done, I would transfer everything from the 25G to the newly cycled 120G

Would you detail how you are cycling the 120G and what is your vision for this tank?

“Even tho gha will be easier in that tank because I plan on having a tang”

I have Blue & Sailfin tangs in my 120G and they don’t mess with the GHA, except to feed on the pods in it.

 

[dlemonz]

Without nothing how you started this tank and its history, I will make some generalizations on strategy. You may not be able to fix the biochemistry in this tank without a serious RIP clean. With that said, once RIP clean is done, I would transfer everything from the 25G to the newly cycled 120G

Would you detail how you are cycling the 120G and what is your vision for this tank?

This 25 gallon came about cause I had a 40 gallon that cracked and my brother had a spare

The plan for the waterbox is I cycled some crushed coral with dr. Tim’s, ammonia, and a heater and put that in a basket in the sump
Live sand
Dry rock
Dr. Tim’s and ammonia
Going to ghost feed until ammonia and nitrites r gone, move over my clownfish, and then let it cycle lights off for a few months

 

[Subsea]

This 25 gallon came about cause I had a 40 gallon that cracked and my brother had a spare

The plan for the waterbox is I cycled some crushed coral with dr. Tim’s, ammonia, and a heater and put that in a basket in the sump
Live sand
Dry rock
Dr. Tim’s and ammonia
Going to ghost feed until ammonia and nitrites r gone, move over my clownfish, and then let it cycle lights off for a few months

Does live sand mean wet with nitrogen fixation bacteria?

Why do a ghost feed to establish nitrogen cycle, then only add 2 fish in a 120G for a few months.

Would you better describe the biofiltration on your 120G and future goals for this tank.

 

[dlemonz]

It’s the Caribbean Sea live sand
And I going to add my other fish too I have royal gramma and cardinal

Need the ammonia to 0 out before I add any fish

 

[dlemonz]

Brs in a video said they recommend running without lights at startup

 

[Subsea]

It’s the Caribbean Sea live sand
And I going to add my other fish too I have royal gramma and cardinal

Need the ammonia to 0 out before I add any fish

I have been Reefing for > 50 years.

How long have you been Reefing and how old are you?

 

[Subsea]

Brs in a video said they recommend running without lights at startup

While I am familiar with their recommendations, I don’t see the logic except to hide algae (it will grow without lights on).

“Going to ghost feed until ammonia and nitrites r gone, move over my clownfish, and then let it cycle lights off for a few months”

Once you have established the nitrogen cycle bacteria by ghost feeding ammonia, then add fish and no lights for several months does not compute.

The reason I say your timing for delaying transfer of corals & live rock from the 32G at your parents house does not compute is that you are maintaining two tanks: one is a 120G that is cycling for a few months and the second tank is an algae infested 32G. Eliminate the algae infested tank with a RIP clean sanitation.

Did you understand RIP clean. In 2 hours sanitize your 32G tank by removing all substrate into a 5G bucket and flush with a water hose. Remove each coral and live rock and soak in a peroxide bath for 10 minutes. Then transfer everything over to your 120G. Then consider adding diver collected live rock & live sand, much differrent then damp sand with bactetia.

For a sustainable reef aquarium, using diver collected live rock will bring in biodiversity of micro fauna & fana that are competitors & consumers of nuisance algae.

 

[CKW]

I’ve done everything imaginable over the last 6 months - nothing fixes my hair algae. Recently my nutrients bottomed out and Dino’s came. Current nitrates are 5 and phos is 0.03. I have tried invert overload, I manual pluck daily, removing the rock and scrubbing with peroxide. Nothing works. Currently running uv and carbon for the Dinos, not helping. Does anyone have any ideas besides brightwell razer which i think i am forced into and just accept whatever coral die.

One tablespoon of Clorox will do it

 

[Dburr1014]

OP, I've read all the comments in this thread.

My thoughts of you care to read.

A microscope will tell you what you have if you compare them to pictures. I saw your Pic but I'm not good at ID'ing dino. Taricha is, but may need a video of you call him in.
If the dino go into the water column at night, the UV should work fine.

I personally would not add snails at this time. They are sensitive to dinos. You'll end up with dead snails pretty quick. Some fish are also sensitive to dinos.

Water changes fuel dinos.

GHA suck up nutrients. It's hard to get a reading.

Since your not living at the address you're tank is at, I recommend flux-rx. I don't normally go to meds until every other avenue is exhausted but this is an easy fix.
Search for micro dosing fluconazole. 10% dose of recommended dose weekly and in 3ish weeks the GHA will be dying or dead. Plus the bonus that the dying algae will boost the nutriets in the tank to fight the dinos.

Also dose some good bacteria wouldn't hurt.
Keeping in mind the UV, I would run it on a timer if possible. Run the pump 24-7 but the UV at night. That's if the dinos are what you suspect and go into the water column. Dose bacteria in the morning. I understand that might not be possible but the bacteria is only for competition for the Dinos.

PO4 I agree is low. This may be false reading because of the GHA.

Good luck

 

[LittleRhodyReefs]

I would consider trying a UV sterilizer. I have seen that the innovative marine drop in may fit into the back chamber. I have also used an aqua ultraviolet advantage series UV on my water box 20. You do need a pump to run it though. Hard to tell what type of dinos you have with out a microscope, but if it is stringy with bubbles its most likely ostreopsis Dinos which need a UV to be killed off in the most effective manner.Other strains are a little more difficult together rid of.