Diatoms and / or Dinos on SPS tips?

[Treefer32]

So, I've eliminated most of my diatom, cyano and dino miscellaneous outbreaks on my 350 gallon display. It's taken a lot of water changes, but since killing off a bunch of bryopsis last winter, I had a tough time getting rid of this bacteria. 95% of it's gone. However I have one green stylopora coral that the new growth constantly gets dinos or some type of reddish brown bacteria on the new growth. Many times it looks like an air bubble so, thinking diatoms. I blow them off with a turkey baster, it continues to grow, then a few days later it's back in the exact same spot. The coral seems healthy, good color, good growth. I fragged a small piece of the coral and placed it in a different spot in the tank to see if it was a flow or lighting or some other issue. The same exact problem occurred with the coral frag. It keeps getting a tiny bit of diatoms or dinos growing any branch that has new growth. Would a dip in coral rx help? I've glued the corals down, but could probably pry them off if needed. I just don't want to stress them if a dip isn't going to help. . .

Other suggestions? I have acros, other stylopora, and other SPS that do not have this issue at all, it's just this one coral that keeps getting bacterial growth on any new calcium skeleton.

 

[Ron Reefman]

bump

 

[vetteguy53081]

For both, do the following:

Prepare for a water change and blow this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles.
Turn lights off for 5 days and st night dose 1ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights
During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as bacter 7) per 10 gallons.
Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX as it is food for dinos.
Day 5,, you can start with blue lights and work your white lights up slowly

 

[Treefer32]

I've been feeding reefer energy AB+ every 3 days. And doing water changes opposite of the feedings (2 days after then feed the next day then water change 2-3 days after then feed again.) It sounds like stop feeding Aminos until they clear up.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I've been feeding reefer energy AB+ every 3 days. And doing water changes opposite of the feedings (2 days after then feed the next day then water change 2-3 days after then feed again.) It sounds like stop feeding Aminos until they clear up.

Discontinue any coral foods and additives which is fuel for cyano and Dino for a few days

 

[Treefer32]

I've discontinued everything but what I feed in my fish food and even cut back on my nori feedings and fish food feedings. And Blowing off whatever starts growing on the rocks on every other day basis.

 

[ScottB]

What are your nitrate and phosphate levels like?

 

[Treefer32]

What are your nitrate and phosphate levels like?

Just tested both. Nitrates are 16-20 (Red Sea pro High range test with expired reagent by 6 months). Phosphates just tested at .12-.16. Red sea pro phosphate test with potentially 6 month expired reagent as well.

 

[ScottB]

It sounds to me like those tips are burning, losing their flesh and then cyano or whatever is growing off the exposed skeleton. I've been through phases like that before after some period of instability -- like a dino outbreak. Certainly nothing to panic over if you are still seeing growth and generally healthy corals.

After a period of instability, I think it always a good idea to send out an ICP test. If nothing else, you tend to sleep a little better knowing that the chemistry is OK.

 

[Treefer32]

This is what I'm thinking. I'm wondering if they're too close to the light. . . . I have other Stylopora at the same level in my tank, but, if these are being directly hit by LEDs vs. others in darker areas not getting directly blasted, maybe that's causing the issue. Not sure.

 

[ScottB]

This is what I'm thinking. I'm wondering if they're too close to the light. . . . I have other Stylopora at the same level in my tank, but, if these are being directly hit by LEDs vs. others in darker areas not getting directly blasted, maybe that's causing the issue. Not sure.

That is the one potential downside of LEDs. In areas where the light cones overlap it can get a little hot. If you can borrow an apogee PAR meter you can map out the hot cold spots.

You have enough nutrient (assuming measures are correct) to carry some PAR. Unless your alkalinity is really high.

But wait. Your running a 350G system right? You'd need a ton of LED to cook that size. What you got for lights?

 

[Treefer32]

AI Hydra 52s. The corals are about 15-16" away from the LEDs and then 4 80 watt T5HO bulbs. The tank is 3 feet wide, so, I have the Hydras in between the center braces from front to back and then the 4 T5 bulbs. I just replaced those a couple months ago. The bulbs were almost 2 years old.

That is the one potential downside of LEDs. In areas where the light cones overlap it can get a little hot. If you can borrow an apogee PAR meter you can map out the hot cold spots.

You have enough nutrient (assuming measures are correct) to carry some PAR. Unless your alkalinity is really high.

But wait. Your running a 350G system right? You'd need a ton of LED to cook that size. What you got for lights?

 

[ScottB]

AI Hydra 52s. The corals are about 15-16" away from the LEDs and then 4 80 watt T5HO bulbs. The tank is 3 feet wide, so, I have the Hydras in between the center braces from front to back and then the 4 T5 bulbs. I just replaced those a couple months ago. The bulbs were almost 2 years

How many Hydra 52s are over the tank in total?

Replacing the old T5s will give more PAR, but if there are only 4 in total over a tank that size it is immaterial.

Maybe a full tank photo?

 

[Treefer32]

3 hydra 52s and the 4 80 watt t5s.