Did I waste my money on this Hanna HR Nitrate checker?

Isaac Alves

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In my experience Hanna Checkers require a lot of care and "mindfulness" (?). You need to pick a process that works and stick to it. Then you get your trend line and you can build confidence with your tests. Always have salifert for your more frequent tests -- harder to flub in a hurry.

I do this now:
  • Glass clarity on the cuvette -- I now use white cotten gloves to handle the cuvettes----I found if I have scratches on the glass then my readings will go hairy and I toss them and buy new glass cuvettes.
  • Wipe down with clean microfiber cloth
  • Rinse out only with RODI water/distilled water using a lab safety wash bottle (it gives a nice hard stream) -- rinse the inside cap as well
  • Batteries -- replace every year
  • Buy the Standards Kit for each checker to ensure the readings are within range
  • Make sure nothing gets into the hanna checker itself -- keep lid closed
  • Use a 10ml syringe and use the same one always -- don't rely on the line of the cuvette
  • Cutting reagent pouches -- always cut the same way, and give yourself time to gently tap the powder directly into the cuvette
  • Be sure to rock the fluid after shaking your reagent powders in the cuvette to catch large bubble, and use the extended long press timer on the checker to let small bubble dissipate.
  • Never use the Hanna Calcium checker, The Magnesium checker, and the low range Nitrate Checker, pH checker -- these have too many variables and tests are hard to trust...even the pH checker I thought would be easy has a terrible drip mechanism where it's too hard to match drop size every time -- spend the money on a pH probe, in fact, two pH Probes for verification.



 
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JGT

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I had issues with reading my Salifert and I always thought my nitrates were in the 20 range, after getting a Hanna HR it read 80. It wasn't until I dosed Vodka over 12 weeks that they lowered to 10. I trust my Hanna Nitrate reader.
Ditto!
 

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IMO, that chart goes way slower than is needed.
Eh, I’m not so sure about that. At least with Euphyllia. This is purely anecdotal but I carbon dosed with a DIY Nopox.
I started with my nO3 around 60. did this over a around a month or 2 along with water changes so not very aggressive. Once I got my n03 under 30 I started losing some heads on my euphyllia. Torches, hammers and frogspawns. Not the entire coral, just a head on several. Not BJD, but the head would just fall apart.
Now it could have been because it was a change in my no3 from where things were at and what they were used to but I can’t help wonder if I had gone more quickly would it had resulted in greater losses.
 
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I purchased a Hanna HR Nitrate checker and it has been testing at 75+ but when use an API test kit it is no where near 75 more like 10-20 as seen in the picture. I know API is not the greatest but this is a pretty large discrepancy. Not sure what my nitrates are with the way these tests are coming out. Has anyone had any issues with their Hanna HR tester reading high?

460C8C04-02BB-4736-8703-630B4ACF0481.jpeg
Hanna HR gives results comparable to Hanna LR. Nitrate tests are more likely to fail low because of problems with the zinc reduction, thats the shake like crazy for a minute or two step.

i also use the API nitrate test, but I modified the recipe to work in the Hanna Checker. It’s reliable too.

Someone sells a multiparameter reference standard. You might buy some and determine which test is off.
 

Tamberav

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All of my other Hanna testers are very accurate. Not saying that this one is not, but man I didn’t think my nitrates were so high. Considering I’m have a fuge with Chaeto and dragons breath and a lot of live rock.

Live rock takes a long time to be able to denitrify well... if you started with dry... forgetaboutit :)

Cheato and such is not near as effective Caulerpa or algae scrubbers. You would need a lot of space for a fuge on a large tank to have significant impact.
 
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Yates273

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Update since following the NOPox dosing chart I’m currently dosing 2.2 ml a day and my nitrates are at 56.2. From 75+. Much better improvement. I also cleaned out my salt water storage container as it was reading 60 ppm of nitrates. Not sure what happened there. Rodi read 0 ppm. I think I am slowly getting back on track here thanks to everybody who has provided me with some assistance.
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Update since following the NOPox dosing chart I’m currently dosing 2.2 ml a day and my nitrates are at 56.2. From 75+. Much better improvement. I also cleaned out my salt water storage container as it was reading 60 ppm of nitrates. Not sure what happened there. Rodi read 0 ppm. I think I am slowly getting back on track here thanks to everybody who has provided me with some assistance.

Even a small amount of nitrite can read as a lot of nitrate. Less than 1 ppm nitrite might explain the 60 ppm reading.
 
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Yates273

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Even a small amount of nitrite can read as a lot of nitrate. Less than 1 ppm nitrite might explain the 60 ppm reading.
Didn’t know that. Guess I could have tested for nitrite to see. Something to keep in mind going forward. I cleaned out the container thoroughly and started another batch of saltwater. I am also changing to Instant Ocean. I realized Reef Crystals mixed much higher than I needed. Once I get my Trident back I am going in a different direction as far as my water. No more 2 part dosing. I will be using All for Reef and just plain old Instant Ocean purple box.
 
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I purchased a Hanna HR Nitrate checker and it has been testing at 75+ but when use an API test kit it is no where near 75 more like 10-20 as seen in the picture. I know API is not the greatest but this is a pretty large discrepancy. Not sure what my nitrates are with the way these tests are coming out. Has anyone had any issues with their Hanna HR tester reading high?

460C8C04-02BB-4736-8703-630B4ACF0481.jpeg

From my understanding the HR checker’s top reading is at 75ppm
If that’s the case? you’re most likely over 75

As already stated mine has stayed inline with Salifert.

Went back to Salifert for 3mins, then a 7min time frame.
 
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Yates273

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Yes I relied on API for my nitrates since I thought it was usually right, based on my tank but man was I wrong. When my nitrates flashed 75 ppm I couldn’t believe I was that high. Explains my algae problem. DIY NOPox is slowly bringing it down now. Guess I can say I didn’t waste my money and now when I need to check parameters against my Trident I use my Hanna checkers. Guess the nitrate checker opened my eyes to how high my nitrate was and API now goes in garbage.
 

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Must be something causing that huge discrepancy since api and hanna for me are pretty close in results (what looks like 20ppm will commonly be 15-17ish on hanna)
 
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Yates273

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Must be something causing that huge discrepancy since api and hanna for me are pretty close in results (what looks like 20ppm will commonly be 15-17ish on hanna)
Not sure what caused it maybe the API reagent was bad, but I trust the Hanna since it did give me a 0 reading on my RODI and since dosing NOPox my nitrates have dropped to 56 ppm. I know API gets a bad rap, but in the past when I started and before I had Hanna and Salifert I had no issues with API alkalinity and nitrate tests
 
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Must be something causing that huge discrepancy since api and hanna for me are pretty close in results (what looks like 20ppm will commonly be 15-17ish on hanna)

Different nitrate kits have different multipliers on the false nitrate reading from nitrite. Thus, two kits can give different nitrate readings on the same water even if they are both working as designed, if there is nitrite present. of course, either one or both still must be "wrong" for the actual nitrate level.
 

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The Hanna Calcium checker is crappy and highly inaccurate due to difficulty getting the exact amount of tank water needed (.1ml ). I use Hanna for Phos (ultra low) , and Alk and Salifert for Mag and Calcium. You will likely see many others agree if you do a google search on their Calc checker.
From what I have read the issue with the Calcium is not using good deionized water. People are using their RODI water but still having issues but not having the issues with commercial DI water. I just ordered the Hanna Calcium but also ordered Hanna's DI water that they sell to use with this checker.
 

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From what I have read the issue with the Calcium is not using good deionized water. People are using their RODI water but still having issues but not having the issues with commercial DI water. I just ordered the Hanna Calcium but also ordered Hanna's DI water that they sell to use with this checker.

Yes, their calcium checker is a bad design that is freakishly sensitive to traces of calcium in the blank.
 
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Yates273

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Well I think it’s safe to say I wasted my money on the API nitrate test kit. The Hanna tester is awesome. Helped me realize what was wrong with my tank. Super high nitrates. Explains a lot about why my montis looked like crap. So o have been carbon dosing using the chart provided in this thread and my nitrates are currently sitting at 35 ppm. Success. Montis look much better and are getting their color back.
 

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