Difficult and Special Care Invertebrate List

Ike

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Inverts and Corals Best Avoided Or Left To Experts:


Cephalopods, Octopi, Cuttlefish, Squid (Class Cephalopoda): These must have species tanks and require a lot of research before attempting them

Non-photosynyhetic Corals and Gorgonids (Sun polyps, Carnation, Devils Hand, Chili Coral, etc.): If it's a soft coral and not green or brown in part and is very vividly colored odds are it's non-photosynthetic and requires more small particles of food than most aquarists are willing or able to provide.

Christmas Tree Worms (Spirobranchus spp.): Filters feeders that rarely live long in home aquaria

Coco Worms (Protula bispiralis): See above

Flowerpot Coral (Goniopora spp.): Some progress has been made, but still miserably low survival rates and mopst are still doomed, stokesi is the most common and seems to be among the most difficult in the genus

Feather Starfish (Himerometra sp.): Require huge amounts of flow and large amounts of tiny planktonic organisms

Basket Starfish (Astrophyton muricatum): Similar to feather stars above, but even less suitable for typical aquarium life

Crown of Thorns Starfish (Acanthaster planci): Just seeing if you're still paying attention...

Linckia Starfish (Linckia spp.): Disease issues and shipping stress kill a large percentage, the ones that remain often slowly starve to death

Wild Acropora Corals (Acropora spp.): Wild colonies can be particularly adapted to flow and light from their natural environment and often do poorly once in aquaria, seek out hardier aquacultured specimens

Sea Apples (Pseudocolochirus spp.): Often slowly waste away if not offered large amounts of food appropriate for filter feeders, also a chance for toxins to be released and possibly kill other organisms

Margarita Snails (Margarites pupillus): From temperate waters and don't seem to adapt to warmer waters as well as some other clean up crew members from similar waters

Green Brittle Starfish (Ophioarachna incrassata): Can get large and boisterous, some reports of them actually ambushing unsuspecting or sleeping fish

Sea Pens (Order Pennatulacea): Terrible additions to home aquaria and are very short-lived

Sea Slugs and Nudibranchs (Subclass Opisthobranchia): Very specialized feeders, a couple can be useful to elimate pests but it is very difficult to sustain a food source for even those, they're also very prone to damage by overflows and pumps

Flame Scallop (Lima scabra): Filter feeders that usually waste away in home aquaria, the same goes for other scallops which are less frequently encountered in the trade

Anemones (various genera): Most anemones should be placed in specialty tanks and also have very poor survival rates, beginners should not attempt Anemones without extensive research
Bright Yellow Anemones (dyed; and done most commonly with Sebae, but also seen on occasion with long tentacle and carpet anemones

Harlequin/Clown Shrimp (Hymenocera picta): Must have live starfish to feed on to survive

Camel/Mechanical Shrimp (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis): Not reef safe but often sold as as such

Elegance Coral (Catalaphyllia jardinei): Recent poor survival possibly due to a disease, other factors might relate to them coming from higher nutrient environments

Pipe Organ Coral (Tubipora Musica): Often hacked off from a larger colony, recent survival seems better than in the past

"Decorative" Sponges (Porifera) Often hacked off from large colonies, also exposed to air for too long which often leads to their demise, bright orange and yellow colors are common

Horseshoe Crab (various genera Limulus polyphemus most common) Grow too large for home aquaria but will die of starvation long before they have the chance





Venomous and/or Toxic Species:


Blue Ring Octopus (Hapalochlaena spp.)

Flower Urchins (Toxopneustes pileolus): Rare in the trade, but outside the trade there are reported deaths from this species

Black Longspined Sea Urchins (Diadema spp.): Can inflict painful wounds, some debate exists whether or not they are really venomous, but it's wise to handle all urchins with care

Cone Shells (Conus spp.): Rarely encountered in the aquarium trade, can be deadly

Box Jellyfish (Chironex fleckeri): Quite deadly but of no concern to aquarists

Hell's Fire Anemone (family Actinodendronidae): While all anemones are capable of stinging, this is the one of the few to be concerned about, very painful stings

Hydroids: Usually just cause skin irritation if anything

Fire Coral (Millepora spp.): See hydroids

Sea Mat, Button Polyps, Zoanthids (family Zoanthidae): Some of these can contain Palytoxin which can be quite dangerous, they're quite frequently harmless but if you want to err on the side of caution rubber gloves are a good idea when handling them, as are goggles when fragging them
 
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REEFKEEPER10

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I have some growing in my tank but it is at the surface and the seaslug has not gone near it. it shrinks when the halides come on.. I had two but one up and disappeared the first day.
 
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REEFKEEPER10

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I have some growing in my tank but it is at the surface and the seaslug has not gone near it. it shrinks when the halides come on.. I had two but one up and disappeared the first day.

so far I have not seen my missing seaslug but the other one is more active and is turning greener every day. It has a lot to eat. my reef tank has hardy corals and alot of algae for my yellow tang, coral beauty angelfish, and lawnmower blenny. I am hoping to breed my scooter blennies for future corals. just need to figure out how to raise the babies.
 

REEFKEEPER10

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so far I have not seen my missing seaslug but the other one is more active and is turning greener every day. It has a lot to eat. my reef tank has hardy corals and alot of algae for my yellow tang, coral beauty angelfish, and lawnmower blenny. I am hoping to breed my scooter blennies for future corals. just need to figure out how to raise the babies.

well my lettuce seaslugs did not make it. everything checked out but I guess the were to far go when I got them. I am going to put a phosphate reactor on to get rid of the algea so I want need them anyway.
 

REEFKEEPER10

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So let's knock the dust off this thread. So who has tried keeping lettuce sea slugs and what was the out come. I have read that they do well and even breed but mine only lasted a few days and parameters were good and my tank was already two years old. I would like to here others experience to get a idea on how to keep these guys.
 

Cl0ne1

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I bought 2 recently. Thought they would be good for algea. One got sucked into the filter intake and got chewed up. He survived the encounter but died before fully recovering. The other just died. They both sat in the same place on the glass for about 2 weeks. I would move them and they came right back. Same thing happened to my red thorny starfish.

Tank you for your time,

Kevin
 

Degener8

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I have tried them a couple times in the last few years. I have not had any luck with them. They seem to do fine and eat well (notable improvements in the areas that i saw them) but then they would just shrivel up and disappear. I never once found a blobby body they seem to just disappear. I never saw any spikes in nitrates or anything following their disappearances either.
 
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Ike

Ike

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I've had them reproduce, but rarely live for more than 3 months and if they make it past that never more than 5.
 

GratefulReef

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I have tried them a couple times in the last few years. I have not had any luck with them. They seem to do fine and eat well (notable improvements in the areas that i saw them) but then they would just shrivel up and disappear. I never once found a blobby body they seem to just disappear. I never saw any spikes in nitrates or anything following their disappearances either.

Id be willing to bet your CUC had a tasty snack.
 

clownfitch

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I housed a Bubble Tip Anemone for 4 months and It was doing well. A month ago I purchased a small Long Spine Urchin to assist with algea and man do they do their job. A week or so after introducing the urchin the anemone closed up and remained that way until i found it rolling in the substrate and starting to decompose. Is it possible that the urchin stabbed the anemone, killing it?
 

andijo81

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My boyfriend and I have had a flame scallop for over 5+ year's. I don't know how we manage to keep it alive. Especially considering we can't keep pulsing xenia and star polyps alive. So weird. It scares the crap out of my boyfriend sometimes. We'll be redoing our rock work and it will sometimes detach from it's rock and shoot thru the water like Pac Man and the load girly shrieking ensues.
 

palmaquariums

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I've dealt with several of the creatures listed here, with various degrees of success. Just thought I'd add some notes based on my experiences.

Flowerpot Coral (Goniopora spp.): Some progress has been made, but still miserably low survival rates and mopst are still doomed, stokesi is the most common and seems to be among the most difficult in the genus
I had a small one in my tank at home. Did great for about two months and then the polyps started dying off one by one. Never was able to figure out why, as the water quality was great. On the other hand, one of my friends had a beautiful colony in his tank, and it thrived for a long time before he lost it in a tank-wide system crash.

Margarita Snails (Margarites pupillus): From temperate waters and don't seem to adapt to warmer waters as well as some other clean up crew members from similar waters
I've tried these a couple of times over the years. They did well for a while, and weren't as prone to suicide-by-inversion as my astrea snails (I rarely had to flip over my margaritas) but they didn't survive as long as many of my other snail species (nassarius, cerith, nerite, etc.).

Pipe Organ Coral (Tubipora Musica): Often hacked off from a larger colony, recent survival seems better than in the past
I got a pipe organ as one of my first corals when I was new to the hobby, and it did very well in my tank. Unfortunately it was the sole casualty when I moved my tank to my new apartment last year, but I never had any problems with it before then.

Sea Mat, Button Polyps, Zoanthids (family Zoanthidae): Some of these can contain Palytoxin which can be quite dangerous, they're quite frequently harmless but if you want to err on the side of caution rubber gloves are a good idea when handling them, as are goggles when fragging them
I always stress caution to my customers when handling these. I've seen some nasty reactions to Palytoxins before and I always use gloves and eye protection when handling them. Good idea when fragging any corals, but these especially.
 

Justinky

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Please add these anemones specifically to your list as they are the hardest by far and should be left to experts, Heteractis Magnifica & Stichodactyla Gigantea.
 

Rock solid aquascape: Does the weight of the rocks in your aquascape matter?

  • The weight of the rocks is a key factor.

    Votes: 10 8.7%
  • The weight of the rocks is one of many factors.

    Votes: 42 36.5%
  • The weight of the rocks is a minor factor.

    Votes: 35 30.4%
  • The weight of the rocks is not a factor.

    Votes: 27 23.5%
  • Other.

    Votes: 1 0.9%
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