Dino getting worse?

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Phistergosh

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I raised my temp bit decided to bring it back down to 78F my digitata didn't like 82F.

So, am dosing bacteria but not Microbacter some other brand name complete start my LFS used it to beat his dinos .

My Cheato is keeping my phosphates at .06 and nitrates at 6ppm. This is a sps tank so can my corals handle the higher nitrates and phosphates if I cut my cheato to half hour it?
The fact that you have readable phosphate and nitrate is probably good enough. Don't play with anything that will reduce them and keep checking to make sure they are both present. You don't want them bottoming out is all.
 
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Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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The fact that you have readable phosphate and nitrate is probably good enough. Don't play with anything that will reduce them and keep checking to make sure they are both present. You don't want them bottoming out is all.
Going to cut back on photoperiod of cheato since it is what brought me down too quickly, I don't have a lot of heavy fish, so finding the balance is how I bottomed out and Dinos arrived.

It's patience and just keeping the nutrients up. I reduced last night the cheato from 8 hours to 4 hours. I should have good nutrients when I check for nitrate and phosphate tonight.

Thanks.....
 

Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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I would say you have a long fight ahead so as long as you have a positive Amphidinium ID do the thing works
Don’t mess with h lights as corals don’t like it and Amphidinium don’t care.
Don’t mess wit temperature as corals don’t like it and for most Amphidinium don’t care.
Reduce phosphate and nitrate export and or dose till both detectable
Look into silicates dosing - worked for me
Add bacteria - not more microbacter 7
Manual export can be part of your strategy but the important thing is you don’t want to disturb the sand. When vacuuming do with just picking the vey top layer - the idea is you want other organisms to stay and compete with Dinos
Vacuuming with 25 micron bag did so much more than when I tried stirring up the sandbed. When I stirred it came back in 15 minutes and full bloom by 2 hours.

When I vacuumed up with the micron filter and added the water back in, it took the dinos a full day to come back and recolonize the sand bed.

I want to try with the 5 micron sock when it arrives next week and do a video to see if it helps remove the strong population down to a level that the other organisms might catch up with nutrients higher.

Thanks for supporting me... I value all response and I read them all.
 

Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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After 3 months of getting an absolute butt kicking from dinos I have realized there's only 4 things proven to consistently help/work. Thankfully I have been dino free for a month now by doing #1 and #2.

#1. Raising nitrates to 5-15 if lower than that. And raising phosphates to .05 - .1 if lower. Don't be scared to dose them directly.

#2. Elegant Corals Dinoflagellates Regimen

#3. UV sterilizer

#4. Dosing silicates (waterglass, excel)

Good luck!
I get #1 and I am doing that, I am also doing #3 but can you explain #2 never heard of that? #4 I have heard but not tried it yet. I am adding a bacteria that worked for my LFS large tanks that had Dinos, he recommended it for me. So, I just started that, 2 days ago.
 

ggNoRe

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I get #1 and I am doing that, I am also doing #3 but can you explain #2 never heard of that? #4 I have heard but not tried it yet. I am adding a bacteria that worked for my LFS large tanks that had Dinos, he recommended it for me. So, I just started that, 2 days ago.

The purpose of it is to eradicate dinos and re-establish a new healthy bacteria base.
 

Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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attiland

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Vacuuming with 25 micron bag did so much more than when I tried stirring up the sandbed. When I stirred it came back in 15 minutes and full bloom by 2 hours.

When I vacuumed up with the micron filter and added the water back in, it took the dinos a full day to come back and recolonize the sand bed.

I want to try with the 5 micron sock when it arrives next week and do a video to see if it helps remove the strong population down to a level that the other organisms might catch up with nutrients higher.

Thanks for supporting me... I value all response and I read them all.
I have done it with 5micron socks and the breakthrough came when realised if I don’t disturb the sand I get better results in long run. It was hard work especially because my wife was asking every day twice why the sand not white.
but the real change came when I started to dose silicates. The competition namely diatoms came so quickly Dinos didn’t stand a chance. Once the Dinos gone waited a few days and stopped silicates. Diatoms gone in 2 weeks without doing anything.
crabs and tangs had the time of their life eating it and the corals didn’t care.
if it would come back I wouldn’t hesitate for an minute to do silicates again.
 

ScottB

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I am with you also in this fight, I just diagnosed one of my systems to have Dinos, I did the coffee filter test. I started yesterday, I purchased equal to Microbacter 7 and read article to raise my temps from 77-78F to 81-82F so I am up to 82 degrees. You can read about it on the forums and youtube, I read a lot before I pulled the trigger.

What I have noticed and this is my opinion, is that my dinos exploded in the increase of the temp and the Micro-bacter 7, I feel it's metabolism is running higher in the warmer water and it will exhaust what ever it is taking on in my tank.

I will let you know as I progress to day #3.

Have you done the microscope ID?

I have posted 3 videos of hoping someone can ID the Dino I have.
Tag me in the thread & I'll take a look.
 

ggNoRe

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Does scraping my aquarium panels give the advantage to the Dinos? Do I let the algae grow all over my panels? I am currently cleaning them?
Ideally you want to leave anything that isn't dinos alone to out compete them until your dino problem is completely solved.
 

Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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Ideally you want to leave anything that isn't dinos alone to out compete them until your dino problem is completely solved.
My elevated NO3 and PO3 are bringing in green film algae a lot on the panels. PO3 .05-.13 and N03 5.1-13 is where my tanks are hovering with me dosing brightwells Neo phos and Neo nitro, and using 4 hours of cheato. I lowered it from 8 hours to 4 hours, my cheato is powerful and grows heavy. Part of the reason my nitrates and phosphates bottomed out, I was trying to find the correct balance and couple days the zeros came in before I COULD GET THEM BACK UP! LOL
 
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My elevated NO3 and PO3 are bringing in green film algae a lot on the panels. PO3 .05-.13 and N03 5.1-13 is where my tanks are hovering with me dosing brightwells Neo phos and Neo nitro, and using 4 hours of cheato. I lowered it from 8 hours to 4 hours, my cheato is powerful and grows heavy. Part of the reason my nitrates and phosphates bottomed out, I was trying to find the correct balance and couple days the zeros came in before I COULD GET THEM BACK UP! LOL
Thats a good thing. You are definitely on the right bath
 

Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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Thats a good thing. You are definitely on the right bath
It is exhausting as I hate looking at that sand bed. But this is part of reefing, new chapter in challenges for me.

I decided to invest into a really nice trinocular microscope since I want to have Id's on future outbreaks.
 

attiland

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It is exhausting as I hate looking at that sand bed. But this is part of reefing, new chapter in challenges for me.

I decided to invest into a really nice trinocular microscope since I want to have Id's on future outbreaks.
You won’t regret it. Here is some pics help
 

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Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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One of the reasons my nutrients hit rock bottom I have incredible growing cheato!
 

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Micro-Reefs Aquarium

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Do you have a fuge light? Looks like the chaeto would be in total darkness in those media baskets.
Yeah, I created acrylic black out screens screens to keep my IM 9 watt Cheato light concentrated on cheato, I cannot stop it from growing!
 

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