Dinoflagelates. A disruptive treatment

[stoney7713]

I just used plain white sugar. When there were discussions around brown sugar earlier in thread - I figured it could have been the “raw” sugar we see here in the states as the crystals are on the brown side, but it’s not “brown sugar” which has molasses.

Also, once I got Dinos under control, I’m now dealing with bubble algae. Pick your poison so to speak.

Your probably correct, we're truly oddballs here in the states.

 

[Bitcoin Reefer]

I just used plain white sugar. When there were discussions around brown sugar earlier in thread - I figured it could have been the “raw” sugar we see here in the states as the crystals are on the brown side, but it’s not “brown sugar” which has molasses.

Also, once I got Dinos under control, I’m now dealing with bubble algae. Pick your poison so to speak.

I took it as actual brown sugar. Hope that’s what it is cause I’m about to dose first dose now lol.

 

[Bitcoin Reefer]

Hi Dr. Jim, the DIY organic carbon additive is made of:

225 ml of vodka (40%)
25 ml of white vinegar
1 tea spoon of brown sugar

Dose is 0,5 ml/100 liters of aquarium water per day

Hope it helps

Can you clarify what brown sugar you’re referring to? Apparently brown sugar may be different in different countries according to the most recent above comments?

 

[Koh23]

Exactly.....

For example, "white winegar".

Here we have "apple winegar", "wine winegar" and "alcohol winegar".

White winegar is, i believe alcohol winegar, thats why i asked.

Also, brown suggar is so wide term, at least 30 variants, so....

 

[killer2001]

I just used plain white sugar. When there were discussions around brown sugar earlier in thread - I figured it could have been the “raw” sugar we see here in the states as the crystals are on the brown side, but it’s not “brown sugar” which has molasses.

"molasses is a rich source (20% or more of the Daily Value, DV) of vitamin B6 and several dietary minerals, including manganese, magnesium, iron, potassium and calcium."

trace element dosing too??? score!

 

[sixty_reefer]

Exactly.....

For example, "white winegar".

Here we have "apple winegar", "wine winegar" and "alcohol winegar".

White winegar is, i believe alcohol winegar, thats why i asked.

Also, brown suggar is so wide term, at least 30 variants, so....

Alcohol vinegar? That wouldn’t be vinegar. To my knowledge there’s only two types of brown sugar. One that is unrefined and it keeps they’re natural molasses and one that is white sugar mixed with molasses. The end result should be the same as both contain molasses

 

[Koh23]

That is exactly winegar, from destilation of ethyl alcohol. Its more acidic than rest....

And only that is white. And of course, that dont mean anything, different country, diferent products. Same as suggar, main "component" is the same, but for sure, even if we buy same "name" product, it wont be the same in whole world.....

 

[sixty_reefer]

That is exactly winegar, from destilation of ethyl alcohol. Its more acidic than rest....

And only that is white. And of course, that dont mean anything, different country, diferent products. Same as suggar, main "component" is the same, but for sure, even if we buy same "name" product, it wont be the same in whole world.....

I got you now, I tough you were saying something different on the acetic acid.
I would worry to much on the sugar the main goal (I believe) is that sugar and molasses are a natural source of carbohydrates that fuel grow and division of bacteria, the bacteria normally stimulated by this carbon source is nitrifying bacteria. As it grows and divides nitrifying bacteria will strip the system of ammonia and starve the dinoflagellates. Acetic acid and etanol will aid the pelagic heterotrophic bacteria for furling growth and division and in a similar way it will oxidise ammonia in the water column both will be targeting ammonia in several different fronts, imo what brand it is won’t affect the end result as much as long as you have a source of carbohydrates, acetic acid and etanol.

 

[Koh23]

I'm only on day 2 of dosing, i hope by the week end to notice at least some improvement

 

[sixty_reefer]

I'm only on day 2 of dosing, i hope by the week end to notice at least some improvement

Imo time and dosage may be affected by what you add to the tank, if you are over feeding or adding products that contain urea and ammonia to raise nutrients may be counterproductive to the treatment. If you don’t see improvement just follow the program and increase your dosage as by the thread. Good luck

 

[Koh23]

I hope for some results, but, time will tell. For now, 2.5ml daily, not sure if i need to increase dosage after first week?

 

[stoney7713]

I hope for some results, but, time will tell. For now, 2.5ml daily, not sure if i need to increase dosage after first week?

Sorry for the late reply
.5ml/100 liters 1st week
1ml/100 liters 2nd week
1.5ml/100 liters 3rd week

 

[Koh23]

Thank you!

 

[Koh23]

Is it better to dose at night, or when lights are on?

 

[stoney7713]

Is it better to dose at night, or when lights are on?

1 to 2 hours after lights out, the thought is you feed the bacteria while Dinos sleep.

 

[ReefDreamz]

When do I start thinking about silicate dosing? I ID'd SCA in my tank 1.5 months ago but they have never spread to more than 5 to 10 dime sized patches on my rockwork at any given time. These patches are generally deep in the rockwork in little caves or next to frags. My sand does look dirty, but it has the same hard green algae that the rocks do

So far I'm only dosing pods a couple time a month and phyto daily and I blow any dino patches off the rock with a turkey baster a couple times a week. I have a UV plumbed into my return line.

Nutrients never bottomed in the history of my tank, currently at 13.3 NO3 and 0.15 PO4. Last night after lights out I found one 5" dino strand coming off my rock and a few other small patches.

Tank has been up for 4 months.

I always run 100% blue lights I just turned on the whites to take these pictures.

Do I

1. Continue doing what I'm doing
2. Start silicate dosing

 

[stoney7713]

When do I start thinking about silicate dosing? I ID'd SCA in my tank 1.5 months ago but they have never spread to more than 5 to 10 dime sized patches on my rockwork at any given time. These patches are generally deep in the rockwork in little caves or next to frags. My sand does look dirty, but it has the same hard green algae that the rocks do

So far I'm only dosing pods a couple time a month and phyto daily and I blow any dino patches off the rock with a turkey baster a couple times a week. I have a UV plumbed into my return line.

Nutrients never bottomed in the history of my tank, currently at 13.3 NO3 and 0.15 PO4. Last night after lights out I found one 5" dino strand coming off my rock and a few other small patches.

Tank has been up for 4 months.

I always run 100% blue lights I just turned on the whites to take these pictures.

Do I

1. Continue doing what I'm doing
2. Start silicate dosing

Silicate dosing doesn't kill the dinos, it causes a diatom bloom which out competes the dinos for food.

Get a small hose and vacuum the dinos out daily the best you can.

 

[ReefDreamz]

Silicate dosing doesn't kill the dinos, it causes a diatom bloom which out competes the dinos for food.

Get a small hose and vacuum the dinos out daily the best you can.

Yup I know that. The diatoms smother the dinos so they can't absorb light for photosynthesis. I was just asking if the level of dinos I'm experiencing generally warrants silicate dosing or not. Its hard to know when to take a more aggressive approach. Appreciate the reply

 

[stoney7713]

Yup I know that. The diatoms smother the dinos so they can't absorb light for photosynthesis. I was just asking if the level of dinos I'm experiencing generally warrants silicate dosing or not. Its hard to know when to take a more aggressive approach. Appreciate the reply

I would wait, diatoms can smother corals too. It's really trading one problem for another, diatoms is the lesser of the 2 evils.

Mechanical removal, keeping your nutrients up, dosing MB7 or equivalent bacteria, maybe even raising the tank temperature would be my first go to approach.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

There are many ways that diatom growth can reduce dino growth, and I’ve not seen any evidence which, if any, is a good description of reality.

It could be competition for space, any of a dozen trace elements, N, P, etc.